Rummaging through the selection on my shelf I chose this mystery fabric found at an estate sale - can't remember when. I am not sure what the fabric is, it was washed and pre-shrunk in the dryer and seems to behave like denim, it presses well, but doesn't wrinkle like cotton so I am not sure of the fiber. I had an aqua cotton poplin short trench coat which I wore a lot so this should fit into my wardrobe, plus the price is right! The jacket is cut out and markings are done, so I will be fitting the sewing in between working on other projects.
I made this same pattern last year, in uncut corduroy, and while I was happy with the jacket it seemed a bit short. Yesterday I was examining it again, and I decided that it is not so much short at the hem but that the waist seams hit me too high, so the peplum effect starts too far up on the torso. Here is last year's version.
Playing around with the length and proportion I have concluded that the seam where the bottom portions attach can move down about 2 inches. If that is too much then I will raise it up when sewing, but for now this will work. To lengthen patterns I decide how much to add, then choose a spot and draw my "lengthen or shorten here" line across the necessary pattern pieces. This jacket has no provision to lengthen the torso - but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Here are the 2 upper side pieces. I have drawn the line across the pattern pieces, then using tissue paper I make long strips with the desired amount drawn on, for this example it is 2 inches. I find that if I make the "expansion pieces" in advance, the process goes quickly and I avoid mistakes in the adjustment. In this case the expansion is in length but it would work the same for spreading the pattern in width.
Next I cut the pattern apart on the line I have drawn, and insert the 2" extension piece. To keep the top and bottom halves of the pattern piece in the proper orientation, use the straight of grain line to connect the pieces and line up the bottom with the upper part
It may be a little easier to see it in this photo, here I have extended the straight of grain line down to the bottom of the pattern piece, as it needs to go through the part where the extension will be inserted.
Remember to lengthen all the pieces, including the facings! Oh yes, I have cut out a complete jacket and then realized that I neglected to lengthen the lapel facing - kind of defeats the effort.
Today's SunnyGal garden photo, we have had so much rain this winter - which is a good thing here - as it will be dry very soon. But the weeds enjoy the rain as much as my tulips.
Happy Spring Sewing, Beth