tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21933678624449455722024-03-15T03:24:58.257-07:00 SunnyGal Studio SewingBeth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.comBlogger556125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-23016767654689656432024-02-29T20:12:00.000-08:002024-02-29T20:12:35.053-08:00Remnant Fabrics to Coat: Part 2 Finished Look Burda 6845 coat<p>What is it about making coats that is so satisfying? I think they are my favorite item to make but I'm starting to think I'm getting to coat maximum - or at least my closet is saying so. But if they are all as nice as this one I will keep doing it. This blog post is a look at the finished coat, for lots of fitting and construction details see <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2024/02/remnant-fabrics-to-coat-part-1-fitting.html" target="_blank">my previous post here.</a></p><a a="" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53559552762/in/dateposted/" title="Remnant coat on bridge"><img alt="Remnant coat on bridge" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53559552762_a5fc1cc22f_k.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>I still can't get over how nicely the colors of these various remnant fabrics go together. In my previous post I have links to the blog posts of the previous projects that resulted in these remnants. </div><div>Photographing this coat has made me crazy, the colors looks different in every image and various times of day, sunny or cloudy etc. These photos in the park on what was an almost rainy day are the most accurate of how it looks in person. </div><div>I lightened the shadows on this one to make the collar more visible. I used Burda 6845 which is an envelope pattern with princess seams and option of the horizontal seam which I used. If I was being really picky I think the lapels are a tiny bit on the narrow side but that's just my style preference. </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560967465/in/dateposted/" title="remnant coat 2"><img alt="remnant coat 2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560967465_3cbf097eb4_h.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I wrote about fitting and construction details in the previous post so I don't have much more to say about that. But if I can give some outerwear sewing tips they are 1. plenty of interfacing 2. grade the seams and 3. press (with care). Also I really like this photo which shows how it is the stitching lines that match on a sleeve, not the edges. Confession time - I almost never do any gathering of the sleeve cap or press it to shape before I sew the sleeves in. Which is contrary to sewing wisdom but my method seems to work for me!</div><div> </div> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53540450588/in/dateposted/" title="Inside sleeve"><img alt="Inside sleeve" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53540450588_92b8abbc62_b.jpg" width="494" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560864000/in/dateposted/" title="Coat on fomr"><img alt="Coat on fomr" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560864000_068c6fe16d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>It took some time and concentration to get that horizontal color block seam to line up precisely when buttoned and I am very satisfied with the result. FYI, 3 buttons, probably sewn on a total of 8 times, on/off, move a tiny fraction of an inch, sew again, etc. The seams all line up as well which also entailed some unpicking and restitching with some tiny adjustments. But that is the point of this coat so it was worth the time. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560621583/in/dateposted/" title="coat sleeve and pocket"><img alt="coat sleeve and pocket" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560621583_7e07e8f645_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>For the lining I used navy blue bemberg rayon throughout. <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2015/12/burda-tri-color-coat-122012-138.html" target="_blank">I have done a coat </a>with a color block lining to match the outside but as this coat was remnants I thought it was a bit silly to buy more lining fabric when I already had this navy blue. </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560967420/in/dateposted/" title="remnant coat lining"><img alt="remnant coat lining" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560967420_365f061640_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560414886/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_1031"><img alt="IMG_1031" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560414886_d4a4e5ab43_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>So that's about it for my latest coat project, a very satisfying one on many levels. We are in the midst of a big rainstorm but I think spring is right around the corner and I have a couple of new t-shirt patterns that I might try out next.</div><div><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53560612503/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_1099"><img alt="IMG_1099" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53560612503_a712bea6c2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #20124d; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Happy almost Spring Sewing,<br />Beth</i></span></h4><div>Today's garden photo, a camellia that needs a good trim once all the flowers are gone. But I can't do it now while all these beautiful flowers are on it. And the bees are in heaven. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53542436198/in/dateposted/" title="Camelia 2024 Feb"><img alt="Camelia 2024 Feb" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53542436198_584066ae55_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-4368802079566182542024-02-20T17:29:00.000-08:002024-02-20T17:29:18.614-08:00Remnant Fabrics to coat, Part 1: fitting and details<p>Looking back I see that I haven't made a new coat for myself since April of 2021 so I feel a tiny bit justified in starting a new one. With the caveat that it is not often coat weather here and when cold it is likely rainy too so I will probably be wearing a rain jacket. But I was reorganizing my fabrics and realized that I had some sizable remnant pieces from other projects that gave me an idea to combine them in one coat. I am so glad I did as I just love how this turned out and thought it was time for a detailed blog post with some fitting details.</p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53539374867/in/dateposted/" title="outer shell finished"><img alt="outer shell finished" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53539374867_042b459403_3k.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the coat in progress (with a very good view of my rolling worktable behind it). I had the navy blue fabric leftover from <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2023/07/cashmerette-auburn-blazer-2-versions.html" target="_blank">this project</a>, the burgundy wool is from this project, and the tweed sleeves are from a blazer that I made myself last year, although I didn't put it on the blog. But the fabric is the same as <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2019/02/mccalls-6172-wool-blazer-version-2-in.html" target="_blank">this one I</a> made for Heather. I liked the fabric so much I bought some at Britex for myself. </div><div>Something about the 3 fabric color ways goes together well and if I were an artist I might understand why, but I just knew they complemented each other. </div><div>Here's the pattern that I used, and envelope pattern Burda 6845 which has lots of versions online and is a really nice pattern. And it had the two-fabric version already in the pattern. </div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53537884731/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0690"><img alt="IMG_0690" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537884731_b2da69a0f6_k.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53537884701/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0691"><img alt="IMG_0691" height="313" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537884701_fa4f118653_h.jpg" width="320" /></a><div><br /></div><div>Let's talk about fitting. This pattern has plenty of seams which I like as it makes adjusting for multi-size a bit easier. I made a muslin in size 38 graded to 42 in the hip and then evaluated that for adjustments. </div><div>One of the reasons I like using Burda patterns is that the neck/shoulders/armhole etc of the size 38 is just right for me and I only need to adjust a bit in the circumferences.</div><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I give a lot of credit to new sewers because if I was starting out and tried on some muslin test garment I might say nope as the test version is always so hideous and you really have to use your imagination to know the final product will be nice. I skip the sleeves (which I do not advise but I know they will fit me already) but I do put in the shoulder pads since that affects the drape and bust location. </div><div>To resolve those drag lines indicated by the blue arrow I split the front horizontally and added more length and width at the princess seam bust area. </div><div><br /></div></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53538284460/in/dateposted/" title="drag lines coat"><img alt="drag lines coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53538284460_a8df77943a_c.jpg" width="602" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's another look at this adjustment. Actually not the adjustment but cutting across the muslin to create space. I pin fabric in the gap created and then check again. The major change was to add more length across the front princess seam, also to add some width at the back hip. Keep reading to see the changes on the actual paper pattern pieces. </div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a a=" href=" dateposted="" https:="" in="" photos="" sunnygalstudio="" title="fitting on form coat copy" www.flickr.com=""><img alt="fitting on form coat copy" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53538186874_889cedce20_c.jpg" width="545" /></a><div><br /></div><div>Explanations in paragraph below. </div><div><br /><div><img alt="coat mods pattern copy" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537877131_2794241524_c.jpg" width="640" /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here are the upper pattern pieces for this coat. I added length and a bit of horizontal distance in the front princess seam, using a wedge that tapered to nothing at the armhole. Then I added the similar amount of length to the center front piece. I remade the muslin test version and decided that the front princess seam edge was a bit too long so I pinched out a small wedge noted with the purple arrow. This just removes some length along that area and made it sew to the other edge better. Then I added to the center back princess seam down to the bottom, particularly around the hip area. However when I sewed it up it in the wool was a bit to big and shapeless at the back waist but it was easier to take in that seam in the final garment. Lastly I shortened all the upper pieces shown in the yellow sections above. I think I shortened about 1.5 inches. The seam needs to be below the waist but not too low so think I raised up that seam by the similar amount that I lengthened the front. </div><div><br /></div><div>I spoke about a lot of the sewing details on Instagram and have saved the series in an Instagram Highlight called "Remnant Coat" so you can see a lot of the sewing and construction details there. my Instagram is: beth_sunnygal</div><div>This coat has a particular sewing order and the dart under the lapel is incorporated into attaching the collar. Which for some reason I don't like and since I rarely read the instructions I almost missed it. Although it probably would have turned out just fine sewing dart and the attaching collar. But their method is smoother in the sewing so I'm glad I took a quick look at the instructions. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53540681495/in/dateposted/" title="Collar and dart instruction"><img alt="Collar and dart instruction" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53540681495_3d214f7c4f_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53537864926/in/dateposted/" title="collar seam instruc"><img alt="collar seam instruc" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53537864926_fe05f72451_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>When it comes to working with coating fabrics I think the trimming and grading seams is the key to a good finish. If there is any spot with more than 2 layers of cloth and it can be trimmed, I trim it. Even tiny corner squares like this one. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53538284330/in/dateposted/" title="trimming upclose"><img alt="trimming upclose" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53538284330_70dacd1f78_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53539375252/in/dateposted/" title="Interfacing inside coat"><img alt="Interfacing inside coat" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53539375252_8c1789d2aa_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>Inside before trimming and pressing. I think when you have some seams intersecting in two different wools like this then adding interfacing gives them a bit of structure and helps them to match together well and press similarly. Originally I didn't have any interfacing on either the blue or the burgundy around the horizontal seam but it just looked limp, particularly as compared to the front portion which had interfacing on the entire pieces. I had only machine basted it together just to double check fit so it was easy to detach some seams and add interfacing. Below shows the front with the silk thread tracing in preparation for the bound buttonholes, see how nicely that seam presses where the two colors meet. That was the result I wanted all around the coat so it was worth the extra time to go back and add the interfacing. I use <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=29&osCsid=db241c13122112fba292ae994d8f1b32" target="_blank">Pro-Weft Supreme Light</a> from Fashion Sewing Supply for almost all coat or jacket projects. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53539375142/in/dateposted/" title="thread mark for buttonholes"><img alt="thread mark for buttonholes" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53539375142_39e1e570b5_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Coat starting to come together at this point and decided to use these buttons which I bought in NY in October at Pacific Trimming. I always make some test buttonholes and play around with size, plus see how the fabric behaves. Note that I sew two layers of interfaced fabrics so that simulates the actual coat front including the seam edge so I can really see how the real buttonholes will turn out. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53538047393/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_5308"><img alt="IMG_5308" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53538047393_9c5f1b46d4_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53540692425/in/dateposted/" title="Remnant coat on a sunny day"><img alt="Remnant coat on a sunny day" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53540692425_1c104e8de7_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's some detail on the fitting and construction for this coat. And a look at the meyer lemon tree outside my sewing room window. Next up I will post the finished coat. Then it's on to a new project - whatever that might be! I just was given some really cute vintage patterns from the 60's so I might get started on a summer dress. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm teaching a combo "Learn to use patterns / simple pattern fitting" class this upcoming weekend via HelloStitchStudio but I think it is sold out. April 27-28 I'm teaching <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/in-person-weekend-of-sewing-shirt-tunic-or-dress-with-beth-galvin">a shirt class </a>using the Kalle Shirt pattern from Closet Core which we just listed so there are spots open. (Location is Bay Quilts in Richmond CA, they have a really nice classroom space).</div><div><br /></div><div>Of course there is plenty to do outside now with all kinds of weeks popping up and plants needing attention. Plus I just ordered some new plants this morning - they're like fabric, hard to resist!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i><b>Happy almost Spring Sewing,</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #4c1130; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo, taken yesterday between the downpours. A cheerful daffodil is so welcome this time of year. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53542608875/in/dateposted/" title="Daffodils 2024 Feb"><img alt="Daffodils 2024 Feb" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53542608875_d7e839c864_c.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div></div>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-59012156279726520432024-01-25T10:21:00.000-08:002024-01-25T10:21:05.985-08:00Upcycle Cashmere Sweater<p>This January I am in a mood to upcycle or at least repurpose a lot of the fabric and garments that I have held onto but not used. I've had an idea to use old cashmere sweaters as fabric and recombine them into new items. Over the the last few years I've put a few of my old sweaters in this category as well as some new to me ones found at thrift shops. However for my first project of this type I actually purchased something and remade it - also using remnants from the stash. </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477353370/in/dateposted/" title="sweater collar"><img alt="sweater collar" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477353370_06a773cd23_k.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I was in my local Savers thrift store before Christmas, looking for puzzles and happened to walk by the rack of men's sweater where this blue beauty was hanging on the very end of the rack. That color! how could I resist. So I bought it for $9 and figured I could use it for something. Also being a men's size L it was quite roomy and great for cutting out me-sized pattern pieces.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53484298527/in/dateposted/" title="blue sweater original"><img alt="blue sweater original" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53484298527_b1b2468070_k.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The sleeves, sides, shoulder seams and neckband were stitched on so I unpicked all that and was left with a good amount of sweater to work with. I decided to make it a polo neck sweater and use a Burda pattern which I <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2023/05/sewing-upcoming-classes-and-other.html" target="_blank">have successfully used on a summer stripe cotton t-shirt. </a>Burda Feb 2023 # 108. You can see the pattern and original shirt in that linked blog post. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477338065/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0797"><img alt="IMG_0797" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477338065_45d61b53b0_k.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I wasn't quite sure what I was going to use for the collar, at first I thought about a contrasting color harvested from another sweater but rummaging around in my stash I found a small piece of silk charmeuse and the color match was incredible, so it had to be that. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53476021742/in/dateposted/" title="test sleeve1"><img alt="test sleeve1" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53476021742_edb3f12ebd_k.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I put both lightweight fusible interfacing as well as some silk organza in the collar and collar stand to give them structure. Otherwise I just sewed it as I would with any knit fabric. The sweater held together well when cut so it was easy to sew. </div><div><br /></div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477339880/in/dateposted/" title="Blue sweater2"><img alt="Blue sweater2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477339880_0429c7a9ec_k.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477339880/in/dateposted/" title="Blue sweater2"><br /></a></div><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477339880/in/dateposted/" title="Blue sweater2">I wanted the hem to use the ribbing so I measured other sweaters that I have to determine where to place the pattern pieces and that turned out well. </a></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53476033002/in/dateposted/" title="blue sweater back"><img alt="blue sweater back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53476033002_2883c6722c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The sleeve were a bit tricky and I decide to just sew them back on as it, with some minor adjustment at the seam allowance of the armhole. So they are a bit long perhaps but I generally turn back the cuff on all sweaters so they are fine. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477243064/in/dateposted/" title="test sleeve2"><img alt="test sleeve2" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477243064_bc08e2acc2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I hand basted them on first just to make sure they fit the armhole. All in all I am really satisfied with my first cashmere sweater remake and there will definitely be more in my future. I've collected a few sweaters in plum, lavender, and purple shades so perhaps some kind of color-block combo.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477254099/in/dateposted/" title="blue sweater front"><img alt="blue sweater front" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477254099_c2ec79cdca_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53477339860/in/dateposted/" title="blue sweater4"><img alt="blue sweater4" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53477339860_bb794bcc6a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Worn with my favorite pair of Ash jeans. That pattern certainly has provided value as I think I have made 10 pairs at least and another corduroy pair is on the to-do list. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm really happy with my slouchy, soft and very blue sweater remake. If you have been following me on Instagram you will know that I am doing another project that is in the reuse-recycle category. I'm making a coat only using remnants of wool from other projects. It started out just a personal challenge but is turning out to be one of my favorites and I will do a blog post soon on that. </div><div><br /></div><div>This weekend I'm teaching an in-person 2-day Chore Jacket class for Hello Stitch Studio. After that we are working on what to offer in the spring, any suggestions?</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: large;"><i><b>Happy January Sewing,</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-size: large;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>As you can see in the image above, the garden is pretty blah this time of year and involves a lot of weeding and raking of the never ending leaves. So here is an image of a summer dahlia to remind me of what's to come. Also I moved all my dahlia tubers to a planter box and I hope to have a nice concentration of blooms there in the summer.</div><div><br /></div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53065145115/in/dateposted/" title="red dahlia 2023"><img alt="red dahlia 2023" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53065145115_16d58fdbba_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-40468184013142744442024-01-01T20:45:00.000-08:002024-01-03T10:38:27.853-08:00Tatjana Trousers in green wool <p>Happy New Year! At the end of 2023 I ended up with 2 different pieces of green wool due to a mixup and the wool crepe has become a dress for Heather (will blog soon). So I had a piece of another green wool that had a nice drape and seemed perfect for some pleated trousers. Which it was!</p><p>It's not the first time I have used this pattern and I will probably use it again in the spring as I want some black or blue lightweight shorts. Also I'm teaching an online class starting on Tues. Jan 16 so I thought I would brush up on my trouser making. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53433566462/in/dateposted/" title="Tatjana trousers front view"><img alt="Tatjana trousers front view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53433566462_10f5e2ef51_h.jpg" width="512" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The weather was really gloomy last week and so I decided to take some indoor shots, and also to crop my top half which still looked like I had just got out of bed :). </div><div><br /></div><div>I did do a few adjustments on this pattern and also I didn't really follow the instructions.</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Cut size 44 </li><li>Used the back pattern piece I had previously adjusted, <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2021/06/just-patterns-tatjana-trousers-as.html" target="_blank">details on this blog post.</a> </li><li>Raised the waist height 1"</li><li>Cut 4 separate waistband pieces and sewed them on the separately so I could adjust center back and side seams all the way up</li><li>adjusted the front pleats, made the near center pleat less wide and also straightened the angle of the pleat</li><li>raised the bottom point of the zipper up 1"</li></ul><div>Here's a look at the front after I had put in the zipper and pockets. I always use a too long zipper and then just cut it down after attaching the waistband. I also pinned the pleats and decided on the final amount of pleat once I was attaching the waistband. </div></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53434490971/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0758"><img alt="IMG_0758" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434490971_5522697f9e_h.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Back view of the trousers.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53434637718/in/dateposted/" title="Tatjana trousers back view"><img alt="Tatjana trousers back view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434637718_684976780a_h.jpg" width="512" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>On the hanger, you can see that the back rise has extra length due to the adjustment I linked to above. Also the seam at the side of the waistband.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53434913085/in/dateposted/" title="Tatjana trousers side view"><img alt="Tatjana trousers side view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434913085_cbb65e5cbf_h.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>On Instagram I asked what color top would go with these pants and got some good responses. So if I find a nice plaid shirting I will try that, I don't think I have any plaid shirts in my wardrobe now. </div><div><br /></div><div>As I mentioned above, I do have an online class coming up in a couple of weeks. Here's a link to register for this class: <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-trousers-techniques-with-beth-galvin-2" target="_blank">Trouser Techniques Class</a> online with Hello Stitch.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53434932025/in/dateposted/" title="Trouser class"><img alt="Trouser class" height="367" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53434932025_49e820af9d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I have some in-person classes coming up as well. Hello Stitch Studio has the option to hold some 2-day classes in the bay area so I am teaching a Chore Jacket </div><div>class in late January. Sat 1/27 and Sun. 1/28. I'm really excited to do a 2-day class which will give people opportunity to get near the finish line on their jackets. </div><div>Here is the link to register and see all the details: <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/in-person-a-weekend-of-sewing-make-a-chore-jacket-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">Chore Jacket Class.</a></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53436952965/in/dateposted/" title="Chore jacket image"><img alt="Chore jacket image" height="375" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53436952965_11c23c778d_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>One more in-person class on January 12 is a Simple Top class which I will be teaching in Lafayette. This is a great class for people who are new to making garments as I provide the pattern and also samples to try on to help choose your size. Here's the link to register: <a href="https://thecottonpatch.shop/collections/classes/products/2024-01-12-beginner-garment-sewing-top" target="_blank"> Cotton Patch Simple Top Class Jan</a> </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53436671913/in/dateposted/" title="CP class Jan"><img alt="CP class Jan" height="396" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53436671913_8930e0e4ae_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on classes. I was all set to sew myself a two-color wool coat, and I had prepared the pattern, made a muslin etc. The beauty of this idea is that it uses some pieces of coat weight wool remaining from other projects. However I don't think we are going to have any coat weather here in N. California this year. It usually is coldest in late Nov and Dec and it was barely coat weather then. So not sure if I will do it. But I might. Although I was sorting through my fabric stash the other day and came across some summer fabrics I never got around to sewing this year. Maybe I should get a jump on spring instead? Stay tuned. </div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><i><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;"><b>Happy New Year sewing,</b></span></i></div><div><i><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: large;"><b>Beth</b></span></i></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo: I am just about to give my roses their big pruning in the next week so here's a picture from last summer. No idea of the variety, it didn't do much the first couple of years but now reliably puts out these bright coral blooms. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52913335541/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_9945"><img alt="IMG_9945" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52913335541_14a492687a_c.jpg" width="396" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-63194371900427756842023-11-13T18:07:00.000-08:002023-11-13T18:07:45.774-08:00Summer blazer in Bright Blue: Burda 07/2023 # 122<p> Let's see if I remember how to do this blogging thing! Slight joke there but I have certainly been slow in my posting this year. A lot of other stuff going on and actually less sewing than usual. However I have been teaching a lot of classes and private students which has been great. Plus a trip to NY and teaching 2 classes over that weekend at <a href="https://www.urbansewciety.com/" target="_blank">Urban Sewciety</a> in Westfield NJ. It was a great trip and of course I did some shopping so I will write about that soon plus my fall sewing plans.</p><p>Meanwhile I did make one more blazer to add to my needless collection of too many blazers. But when I saw this pattern in the Burda magazine I just really wanted to try it as the pocket detail is interesting and different. </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53326059860/in/dateposted/" title="Blazerblue4"><img alt="Blazerblue4" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53326059860_8f5fa4ef06_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>Also I had bought this stretch cotton fabric at Stone Mountain because that blue works with my wardrobe and becomes a jacket that you can wear with jeans (instead of a double denim look). It might even be <a href="https://stonemountainfabric.com/product/gb-dd09-31/" target="_blank">this fabric</a> that they still have but I'm not certain. I really like the result although I had planned to make a different style - more of a longer unlined jacket with patch pockets. Well maybe next spring in a different fabric. <div><br /></div><div>Here's a better look on the dress form. I think this fabric is just a tiny bit too stiff for this style (despite washing/drying) although it might soften up with wearing.</div><div><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53309196682/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cotton blazer1"><img alt="Blue cotton blazer1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309196682_020351252e_c.jpg" width="599" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I don't think I took any photos while I was sewing. But I did post a few videos on my IG stories back in September and I took this still image from a video. It shows how the pocket works with the top pattern piece of the jacket extending into the pocket and then it is seamed across to create the edge of the pocket. I love pockets that are designed into seams. Just this morning I downloaded a Patrones pattern for a coat which has the most amazing seaming/pockets. No idea if I will get to it this year but I wanted to see the pattern pieces. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53331135710/in/dateposted/" title="Burda pocket"><img alt="Burda pocket" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53331135710_ebeae3c29c_c.jpg" width="548" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Closer look at the pockets.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53310312448/in/dateposted/" title="blue cotton pocket"><img alt="blue cotton pocket" height="538" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53310312448_c283c20521_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the line drawing and image from the Burda Magazine. July 2023 Pattern 122. I think I will consider this pattern again if I have a softer jacket fabric sometime, like a wool flannel. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53308450419/in/dateposted/" title="Blazer 072023"><img alt="Blazer 072023" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53308450419_a095df4415_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here it is buttoned up, which is actually something I rarely do. Wearing my favorite Ash jeans. I made those about 4 years ago? and they have been in constant rotation since. I should do a post on the items that I've made that I wear most frequently, it might be interesting to evaluate what ends up being the most useful items. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53310419074/in/dateposted/" title="Blazer blue1"><img alt="Blazer blue1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53310419074_6da7e95c2c_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Slightly wild print lining. I'm not a fan of the novelty lining and most always prefer a solid color that matches or coordinates. But one not so important casualty of the pandemic is the difficulty in finding nice bemberg rayon lining. In fact they used to have about 4 basic colors at Joanns and I regret not stocking up like crazy but I haven't seen it there is a couple of years. Even at Britex they told me they had to find a new source. So I've been ordering from Mood, their <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/lucidum-taupe-bemberg-lining-324018" target="_blank">Lucidum Bemberg Lining </a> which is 60" wide and comes in just about any color. But my stash of lining which used to be well stocked is diminshed now and I will be on the lookout for bargains. This print lining I did order from Mood and it adds a nice pop when the sleeves are rolled up. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53309196692/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cotton blazer3" true=""><img alt="Blue cotton blazer3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53309196692_e18e1db46b_c.jpg" width="544" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53310063126/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cotton back"><img alt="Blue cotton back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53310063126_bafd4b9f5d_c.jpg" width="635" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Back view, you can tell it's a slightly stiff cotton and even with pressing there are a few wrinkles but it probably looks better when worn and lived in. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53326053205/in/dateposted/" title="Blazerblue3"><img alt="Blazerblue3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53326053205_c46df8c178_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's some end of summer sewing accomplished, I have some other interesting things to blog including a top I copied from RTW and made for my friend Heather which I think you will find very interesting. </div><div><br /></div><div>No classes scheduled for the rest of this year - with the holidays I think people are busy with other things. I'm just finishing my online blazer class and in January I will do an <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-trousers-techniques-with-beth-galvin-2" target="_blank">online trouser class.</a> And a few in person classes yet to be determined. </div><div><br /></div><div>Sewing plans - they change daily although I have a lot of test versions of things in process now so maybe a color blocked coat for me and some new items for Heather. </div><div><br /></div><div><i><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Happy November Sewing,</span></i></div><div><i><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Beth</span></i></div><div><br /></div><div>Here's today's garden photo, they are just finished blooming but these aster plants are real winners and look so pretty at the end of summer when everything else is running out of energy to bloom. Time to divide them soon and make more plants!</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53330942398/in/dateposted/" title="Asters 2023"><img alt="Asters 2023" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53330942398_69695478df_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-39241404123350507082023-08-22T22:35:00.003-07:002023-08-22T22:35:43.437-07:00Update on Fall Classes and a quick summer top<div style="text-align: left;">It took a while for our summer weather to arrive after the June gloom, but the "too hot to sew" time has finally arrived. It's been a busy few weeks, there's always plenty of work to do outside, plus I've been trying to swim more often. Which feels great at the end of a 100+ Fº day. July was also bathroom remodel month which is a bit disruptive - although it came out beautifully. </div><div style="text-align: left;">In early August I was rummaging through my stash fabrics and came across this 1 yard piece, which might be a cotton/silk blend or maybe just cotton but it is very luxe feeling. No idea where I got it, and didn't even remember it was there. Perhaps on the remnant shelf at Stone Mountain? It looks like the type of thing I would buy if I saw it there. Turning to my new favorite way to keep my patterns in one place, the Freeform App on my Macbook and I saw a pattern which is super simple and didn't need much fabric.<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53135178087/in/dateposted/" title="Burdastyle 10/2021 114"><img alt="Burdastyle 10/2021 114" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53135178087_9839141954_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>It's a good thing it was simple as I finally caught Covid after avoiding all this time, and so I was recovering but still a bit limp, and of course stuck at home. FYI all better now. It was a good excuse to catch up on sleep and watch foreign language TV. (note: I am hooked on all the French detective shows - they are not that different to the American ones but the clothes are so chic and the scenery is fantastic (streaming on Mhz channel if you are interested). I also watch the Italian ones which I can do when sewing as I can understand but for the French I need the subtitles - should have studied more French. </div><div>Anyway, back to sewing, here's a look at the pattern from the magazine. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53136181905/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_0345"><img alt="IMG_0345" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53136181905_1215b4e804_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>This is the second top I've made with those cut on cap sleeves and I really don't like them. I prefer just a regular sleeveless top. But otherwise I do like this top and it goes well with my Mirambell skirt from Pauline Alice patterns (<a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2017/07/mirambell-skirt-from-pauline-alice.html" target="_blank">blog post here</a> on that skirt). And this image shows why I mostly look at the line drawings - the styling often obscures the pattern. Which is not a problem unique to Burda but they seem to specialize in wacky photo shoots that hide the garment details. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53135178057/in/dateposted/" title="BurdaStyle 10-2021 # 114"><img alt="BurdaStyle 10-2021 # 114" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53135178057_51063baa09_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think this could also be sewn in a lightweight knit which I might try. But up next I'm sewing some cotton jersey sent to me by Minerva (gifted). The quality is so nice. Anyone have feedback on shipping charges to the US from them? All the items I have received have been as a Minerva ambassador so there were no shipping charges. I'm curious, as I would order some more of this knit if the shipping were reasonable. </div><div><br /></div><div>CLASSES: some good things on my calendar including an <b>East Coast weekend of classes at <a href="https://www.urbansewciety.com/" target="_blank">Urban Sewciety</a> in New Jersey. </b>I am so excited to be going there in October to teach 2 days of pattern fitting classes. It will be an all-day workshop offered either Sat. Oct. 21 or Sun. Oct 22. <a href="https://www.urbansewciety.com/module/class/508906/garment-intensive-making-bodice-pattern-adjustments" target="_blank">Here is the link to their website to register. </a> And I will be in Manhattan during the week prior for shopping/fun with my pal Heather. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53135982554/in/dateposted/" title="NJ class"><img alt="NJ class" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53135982554_8037ca8cb6_b.jpg" width="666" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>And fall means Jacket time, right? I will be running my online Jacket-making class again starting in September. I love doing this class and talking about collars, lapels, interfacing, seam grading, welt pockets etc. <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-intro-to-tailoring-make-your-own-blazer" target="_blank">Here's the link to register. </a> note the dates when you go to the link - we will skip a week for my travel and another week for Halloween - which is unbelievably big in my neighborhood. So that means more time to work on your jacket :) </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53135828946/in/photostream/" title="Blazer class"><img alt="Blazer class" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53135828946_c80456cd1f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I also have an in person class with Hello Stitch (in Oakland) to sew the Lander Pants - that isn't until Oct. 8 but it is on the way to selling out so if you are interested sign up soon. <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/in-person-make-the-lander-pants-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">Here's the link. </a></div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest - I haven't really sewn much this summer as I have so many items I made the first 2 summers of the pandemic that got little wear, so I am enjoying wearing those items. I do have a fall blazer in mind and am about to start an upholstery project for friends (shudder). Which has prompted me to think about reupholstering one of my couches. But that will wait until gloomy winter. Until then it's time to be outside! </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's another look at my Burda top, a little silly but I get a thrill when they repost and with a garden theme too!</div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53136183895/in/dateposted/" title="Burda IG page"><img alt="Burda IG page" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53136183895_f0240ce239_b.jpg" width="361" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Happy Summer Sewing</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo - finally some modest success with Dahlias. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53065145115/in/dateposted/" title="red dahlia 2023"><img alt="red dahlia 2023" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53065145115_16d58fdbba_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-61446394817804528572023-07-22T21:48:00.002-07:002023-07-22T21:48:34.396-07:00Cashmerette Auburn Blazer: 2 versions <p>Did I intend to have 2 months go by since I posted on the blog? No, I think I've just fallen out of the habit but I really wanted to share this pattern and the jackets I made for my friend Heather. Here is the most recent version, in a summer color and fabric. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53032986190/in/dateposted/" title="Light blue blazer 2 on H"><img alt="Light blue blazer 2 on H" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53032986190_a4862eeb54_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>This is the Auburn Blazer from Cashmerette Patterns. It's the first pattern I've sewn from this pattern company although I have been looking at them with great interest ever since they started. Below I will discuss some of my thoughts on this pattern. </div><div>It has princess seams front and back, plus side seams, 2-piece sleeves and a slanted single welt pocket. </div><div>Here's a look at the winter version I made back in the autumn. This is the most gorgeous wool from Britex Fabrics, so soft it feels like cashmere. </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52984286445/in/dateposted/" title="Blue blazer1"><img alt="Blue blazer1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52984286445_eb4f6399c1_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Here's a look at the pattern photos and their technical drawing. <div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028002676/in/dateposted/" title="Auburn blazer pattern image"><img alt="Auburn blazer pattern image" height="618" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028002676_b5d2d8e4ef_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>I took a picture of the PDF of this pattern as I was really impressed. I think this is one of the best PDF patterns I have worked with. </div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-size: x-small;">every page is numbered and lettered so it is easy to put together</span></li><li><span style="font-size: x-small;">the printing is bold and clear</span></li><li><span style="font-size: x-small;">the pattern pieces are labeled distinctly</span></li><li><span style="font-size: x-small;">the size labeling is easy to find</span></li></ul></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52984368908/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="Blazer PDF example"><img alt="Blazer PDF example" height="486" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52984368908_36f43a6542_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I did a real combo of sizes and while it is great that the jacket comes in various cup sizes I had to do some reshaping of the bust area. While Cashmerette is marketed to full busted sizes I often notice a few fit issues on both their samples and on garments that people make and show on IG or blog. My impression is that on some their patterns, particularly ones with a distinctive waist, the waist seam is too high, and there is not enough length in the front bodice, even though it fits around the bust area. I just made the Upton dress and came up with the same issue and I think it is due to the center front piece being the same for all cup sizes. So only the side panel changes. That doesn't seem quite right to me and I did change the shape of the princess curve a good bit. But in general I liked the fit of the jacket pattern and chose a starting size based on body measurements with good result. On a tailored jacket I will always make a muslin and fine tune a lot of things before cutting out the wool. I did shorten the longer version with the pockets. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53027452697/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_9825"><img alt="IMG_9825" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53027452697_e5b1bb4123_c.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I don't want to go overboard with too many construction photos, I did do an Instagram story "Auburn blazer" which I saved as a Highlight so if you go there you can see some construction details including a lot about making the pocket which because it's slanted is a bit tricky.</div><div><br /></div><a ehref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028037841/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4929"><img alt="IMG_4929" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028037841_9ca707530e_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><a ehref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028037841/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4929"><br /></a></div><div><a ehref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028037841/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4929">When it comes to construction I tend to go my own way, so I catch-stitch down all the seams in the collar and lapel with silk thread. I used fusible weft interfacing for the jacket front and undercollar, and then lightweight interfacing for the upper collar and lapel facing. And of course lots of tailor's tacks! </a></div><div><a ehref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028037841/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4929"><br /></a></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028424650/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4928"><img alt="IMG_4928" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028424650_e303c59737_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>This image doesn't have the best lighting but you can see the sleeve has a nice curve. I used the regular fit sleeve which is generous and I didn't need to do any full bicep adjustment. The pattern comes with pattern pieces for a full bicep sleeve which is really nice to include. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028419375/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4947"><img alt="IMG_4947" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028419375_e330e48631_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028032421/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4945"><img alt="IMG_4945" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028032421_f9c06f90d0_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>You can see this wool has an almost fluffy texture. And it was very tricky to press! this is the type of wool that will get marks easily from the iron and flatten the nap so I was SO careful. It also seems to pick up every little piece of lint. </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53028516998/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="IMG_4949"><img alt="IMG_4949" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53028516998_3df65df770_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The navy blue wool jacket fabric and the lining were from Britex in San Francisco. </div><div>For this casual version the fabric was from Mood in NY. It's a cotton pique with spandex, so to me it looks sometimes a bit rumpled but also doesn't really need pressing, it behaves like a lightweight stretch denim. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53032592321/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="Light Blue Blazer on form"><img alt="Light Blue Blazer on form" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53032592321_9f4f9170b6_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I'm really happy I gave this pattern a try, proportion-wise it's almost perfect for Heather and I think next winter we will do a suit version with trousers. Spoiler alert - I tried the Meriam trousers for her recently and they were great (with some specific adjustments - what pants patterns doesn't need a few adjustments, right?)</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53032773579/in/album-72177720309144330/" title="Light blue blazer front on H"><img alt="Light blue blazer front on H" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53032773579_df0e699c27_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So I am on the Cashmerette team for my friend Heather. It's a little ironic or perhaps fated because when I first started making things for Heather I remember showing her a picture of Jenny (owner of Cashmerette) in a black dress that looked fantastic, and I told Heather I could sew something like that for you. And now I have made so many. A truly gratifying partnership. </div><div><br /></div><div>Up next, I have traced a few items from recent Burda magazines but my sewing motivation is on the wane. A combination of 100ºF plus temps here, and the fact that I sewed so many items during those first 2 years of the pandemic that I am now getting to wear more. Also I'm in the midst of a bathroom remodel which is almost done but kind of hectic when the builders are here. Plus it's swimming season so that's a lot more fun than being in hot sewing studio!</div><div><br /></div><div>You can see a peek of a silk blouse in the photo above, I copied a top (from Universal Standard) that Heather owned. It was a bit of a pattern puzzle but very rewarding so I want to post about that soon.</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Happy Summer Sewing and stay cool 😎</i></span></div><div><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Beth</i></span></div><div><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div>This time of year merits more than one garden photo. White shooting stary hydrangeas, pink hydrangeas of a similar type, and a pink dahlia that I forgot about but is blooming like wild this year. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53065145170/in/dateposted/" title="white and pink hydrangea"><img alt="white and pink hydrangea" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53065145170_42cd7ecff1_c.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/53064169837/in/dateposted/" title="pink dahlia 2023"><img alt="pink dahlia 2023" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53064169837_d1190fe14b_c.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-42731844101755298112023-05-20T23:10:00.000-07:002023-05-20T23:10:01.103-07:00Sewing, upcoming classes and other projects<p>So much for my resolution to blog more frequently this year. I'm not sure where the time has gone but I have several completed sewing projects to share in the next month. After our incredibly rainy winter there has been a lot to do in the garden but coming on to June it's the time of year when everything is blooming and I can just sit back and enjoy it. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52913371640/in/dateposted/" title="Knit polo 3"><img alt="Knit polo 3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52913371640_1594504073_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>A few weeks back I was looking through my knit fabrics and found this stripe that I ordered some time back. It worked perfectly for this pattern, which was slightly deceptive as I thought it was color blocked but that turns out to be their fabric, a giant stripe. Anyway I liked how it turned out and might make again. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52910926586/in/dateposted/" title="Burda polo top info"><img alt="Burda polo top info" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52910926586_342c1bc514_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52913653105/in/dateposted/" title="back front stripe polo"><img alt="back front stripe polo" height="430" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52913653105_36bf75ae54_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>The fabric was from <a href="https://www.girlcharlee.com/" target="_blank">Girl Charlee,</a> sometime in the last couple of years. </div><div>Here's a sneak peek at something I made for my friend Heather, using a Cashmerette pattern for the first time. This is the <a href="https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/auburn-blazer-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Auburn blazer.</a> </div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52910919376/in/dateposted/" title="Blue blazer"><img alt="Blue blazer" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52910919376_20632029d2_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>This fabric is a gorgeous navy blue wool from Britex Fabrics. It is SO soft. Since I finished this back in March and now wool blazers are put away until fall I suggested she have a summer version, so I am just finishing another in a stretch cotton. When I get that one done and some photos taken I will do a blog post about the blazers and this pattern. </div><div>After several years of hiatus I'm happy to say that this May brought back our SF Bay Area Frocktails. We met at a fun bar in downtown San Francisco and it was great to see old friends and actually meet someone who has been an online sewing friend for many years, practically since we both started blogging. Next to me in the red dress is <a href="https://www.instagram.com/juebejue/" target="_blank">Juebejue</a> who is a wizard of sewing garments that convert from one thing into another. It was so fun to finally meet in person after years of virtual communications. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52911077234/in/dateposted/" title="Frocktails 2023"><img alt="Frocktails 2023" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52911077234_2635f87985_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52913422479/in/dateposted/" title="Frocktails group photos"><img alt="Frocktails group photos" height="553" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52913422479_28893e1bee_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>There I am on the bottom right wearing the sparkly dress that I stitched up a couple of nights before the event. Did I need a new dress? No, but I rediscovered this sparkly purple fabric that I ordered from Mood a few years ago. 1 yard. What was I thinking I could do with 1 yard? but I had some wool jersey that coordinated so I sewed it into a kind of fancy t-shirt dress. When you go to a party or gathering with non-sewing people, often the clothes are neutrals, solids or what might be called "wearable" i.e. something that people can find in the store, fits them and is suitable for several occasions. But a Frocktails party is a riot of color, styles and fabric variety, and I love it. Because everyone picks out fabrics that they love and are happy to sew and wear. Next month is a pattern swap and I have loads to unload, so I will be there. </div><div><br /></div><div>I have plenty of upcoming classes, both in person and online. Here are the details. </div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52910922596/in/dateposted/" title="Jeans class June 2023"><img alt="Jeans class June 2023" height="800" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52910922596_3472704991_c.jpg" width="501" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>In June I have an online jeans class, <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-jeans-techniques-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">here is the link.</a> to register. This class includes live sessions, video to watch later and recordings of the sessions in case you miss a week. </div><div><br /></div><div>For in person classes I have <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-jeans-techniques-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">Beginner Garment Sewing: Top </a> on June 30 and <a href="https://thecottonpatch.shop/collections/classes/products/07-21-sew-a-knit-t-shirt" target="_blank">Knit T-Shirt </a>on July 21. Those are both at The Cotton Patch Quilt Shop in Lafayette. </div><div><br /></div><div>My in-person class with Hello Stitch on June 24 is Sold Out, but we will schedule more the following month. </div><div><br /></div><div>I just cut out another pair of Ash jeans, using some nice denim I recently ordered from <a href="https://metrotextilesnyc.com/" target="_blank">Metro Textiles</a> in NY. The other day it was getting really hot and I decided that I needed a pair of lightweight crop flare jeans. Well need is relative but that's what these will be. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52910919461/in/dateposted/" title="Ash jeans latest version"><img alt="Ash jeans latest version" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52910919461_da4b0a925e_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest, I'm ready to do some summer sewing. My other big project is a bathroom remodel which is set to start in late June. Why is it so easy for me to choose a fabric? I can decide in an instant if I like a pattern or fabric but choosing tile and paint colors takes me forever! However it is all decided, ordered and hopefully finished by August. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: georgia;">Happy Summer Sewing,</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #a64d79; font-family: georgia;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div>The roses are in full bloom and the jasmine is flowering. As well as the orange and lemon trees covered with blossoms. Time to take it all in. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52912757482/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_9949"><img alt="IMG_9949" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52912757482_6a87d6485e_c.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-70459682934352652512023-02-20T16:49:00.000-08:002023-02-20T16:49:31.801-08:00Coat completed: Burda 7169 in camel wool from Britex<p>Finally it's time to show the finished coat. And well past time, as I finished it back in November so Heather could take it on a Thanksgiving trip to the east coast. We took some very quick photos on the day she picked it up so they are very casual but I like the autumn feel. Because around here we don't get all that much fall color - but do get plenty of leaves to sweep up. </p><p>Here are the previous posts for this coat construction if you are looking for sewing details: <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2023/02/burda-7169-classic-coat-in-camel-wool.html" target="_blank">First blog post</a> and <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2023/02/part-2-burda-7169-classic-coat-in-camel.html" target="_blank">second blog post.</a> </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52697732808/in/dateposted/" title="H coat1"><img alt="H coat1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52697732808_f71cae23c0_b.jpg" width="573" /></a><div><br /></div><div>The fabric was from <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex </a>in San Francisco, on that same shopping trip we also bought a navy blue wool. With that fabric I'm making the <a href="https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/size-12-32-patterns/products/auburn-blazer-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Auburn blazer</a> from Cashmerette and I hope to get to that project in the next month. </div><div>I'm really happy with the lapels on this coat, they came out very nicely and the pattern sewed together so well.</div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52699781833/in/dateposted/" title="Coat lapels"><img alt="Coat lapels" height="528" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52699781833_fc3fd66af2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Just as a reminder, here's the coat that that was the inspiration.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653590484/in/dateposted/" title="Burda 7169 wool coat"><img alt="Burda 7169 wool coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653590484_002d02230b_b.jpg" width="524" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think with coats it's all about the interfacing. I put weft interfacing on the under collar and coat front and then lightweight interfacing on the upper collar and the lapel facing. </div><div>Here's a few more looks at the insides. I put weft interfacing on the bottom edge, cut with pinking shears to soften the edge, and I always have it continue up past where the hem is folded. It means you can hand stitch the hem and pick up the threads of the interfacing with the thread and then the hem stitching will not show on the right side.</div><div>I tend to baste hems before I stitch them. They could just be pinned but I like to baste at the hem fold and then I can decide how deep to make the hem and trim to that amount. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655717183/in/dateposted/" title="F575C3B6-C6CC-423D-A5E6-B8D65E604548"><img alt="F575C3B6-C6CC-423D-A5E6-B8D65E604548" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655717183_3a276701c6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655231011/in/dateposted/" title="2A441717-8D1B-425B-99C6-AB8D3CCB33FE"><img alt="2A441717-8D1B-425B-99C6-AB8D3CCB33FE" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655231011_1eeaaea123_b.jpg" width="568" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Inside hems on thick fabrics it's helpful to trim the seam allowance back so that as it is folded up and laying against the seam allowance so it's less thick and softens that edge. As mentioned I didn't take a lot of pictures so we have to make do with a blinking one but I think this coat can work as dressy or casual, depending what it's paired with. She wanted it to be roomy so she can wear a thick sweater underneath. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52697500464/in/dateposted/" title="Hcoat4" ue=""><img alt="Hcoat4" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52697500464_80d3173ebf_b.jpg" width="587" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div>Sewing room realness - complete with all the scraps that I toss onto the floor.<script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52699770813/in/dateposted/" title="CE898E9F-6261-48D0-AA51-880AABAF1224"><img alt="CE898E9F-6261-48D0-AA51-880AABAF1224" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52699770813_216217ecf0_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52700021062/in/dateposted/" title="H coat back2"><img alt="H coat back2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52700021062_e95b827536_b.jpg" width="529" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I like the detail of the walking pleat at center back and I generally hem the underneath side every so slightly shorter than the side on the outside so that it never peeks out of the bottom. Eventually these hems are covered with the lining which I hand sewed at the hem. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52654741717/in/dateposted/" title="5F1B1C9A-7EAD-4812-B4FB-21F2DA7966AE"><img alt="5F1B1C9A-7EAD-4812-B4FB-21F2DA7966AE" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52654741717_2f6441bb71_b.jpg" width="620" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on this beautiful coat. The fabric is SO soft to touch. </div><div>In other sewing news I have sewn another pair of Ash jeans for myself - can't stop, won't stop :) and I think I might make a knit top as a little palate cleanser before I start my next projects. Including the above mentioned Auburn Blazer from Cashmerette. My first time using a Cashmerette pattern and I have Thoughts! which I will share. First impression is quite good but definitely some things that bug me - which applies to any pattern brand, I always find a few things to criticize. </div><div>This week we are supposed to have more rain and freezing temps here, so my gardening is still on pause - and we do need the rain despite that deluge in January. But I see some signs of spring and it will be here in an instant. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #660000; font-family: georgia;">Happy Sewing,</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #660000; font-family: georgia;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo - the February reliable for N. California is camellias. They were ubiquitous here in previous decades but seem to have gone out of popularity. I can see why they were used often, very tough, green all year and need almost no attention. But they are also very messy (dropping all those flowers which only bloom for a very short time. I've taken out several that might have been here at this house way before me but I've kept a couple. Mostly due to the trouble of removing and also they do bloom when most everything else is doing nothing. Plus this one is filled with sticky nectar and the bees love it. </div><div> </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52681763438/in/dateposted/" title="Untitled"><img alt="Untitled" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52681763438_61e1506cf3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-7462856960221909622023-02-13T17:55:00.003-08:002023-02-13T17:55:48.052-08:00Part 2: Burda 7169 classic coat in camel wool from Britex<p>Time to show the rest of the construction of this coat so I can post the finished look. Here's <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2023/02/burda-7169-classic-coat-in-camel-wool.html" target="_blank">the first post </a>on this project. </p><p>Let's skip ahead to some fit refinements as everyone likes to see those. I did all the interfacing and then machine basted the coat together for a try-on. I find that even if you fit something in muslin then the thickness and weight of the actual fabric plus interfacing does have an effect that differs. Here I thought that the princess seam above the bust was a bit bulky and not laying smoothly on the upper chest so I just changed the seam every so slightly to correct that. I think the left shows it just basted and then on the right is the inside, it's just about 1/8" of an inch in that hollow of the chest but it makes a nice difference in fit. </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655709338/in/dateposted/" title="camel coat basting"><img alt="camel coat basting" height="328" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655709338_81a55cae48_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I will say this fabric is a bit fussy, as the two sides are just very slightly different but very hard to distinguish. So I probably went overboard with marking with wax chalk and even spots of blue tape on the wrong side of every piece. I don't know how people use pattern weights - I like to keep the paper pattern piece on my cut out pieces until the minute I need it to sew. And using a projector to cut out sounds like a nightmare. I probably don't understand it and this method works for me. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653805478/in/dateposted/" title="A667FFFA-EB50-4E8E-B702-4827E8CD900F"><img alt="A667FFFA-EB50-4E8E-B702-4827E8CD900F" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653805478_46c89113fe_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><div><br /></div><div>Sometimes I think making a coat is mostly fusing the interfacing! And wondering when can I get to the actual sewing. I used Fashion Sewing Supply <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_31&products_id=29" target="_blank">Pro-Weft Supreme Light</a> for this coat (and basically for all coats and jackets). They have the same in "medium" but I have found that too heavy for most anything I have sewn with jacket or coat fabrics. I think the key to choosing interfacing is to support the garment fabric and not change it substantially (unless that is the intent). <br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52652831347/in/dateposted/" title="3BB9DDBB-302A-4FAC-87DE-F77AE7B92336"><img alt="3BB9DDBB-302A-4FAC-87DE-F77AE7B92336" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52652831347_83c4efe500_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Before I get very far along I have to decide about the buttonholes, because if I am going to have bound buttonholes they need to get made prior to sewing on lapel facing. I will say that I have never made a hand worked buttonhole - it's on my list of things I need to teach myself how to do. But this coat was not the time to try it. And the machine buttonholes just look wimpy on this coating fabric. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653915398/in/dateposted/" title="Camel coat test buttonholes"><img alt="Camel coat test buttonholes" height="424" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653915398_7f78197eb6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653871620/in/dateposted/" title="2BB15A1A-F510-4C78-A30C-0A2DC7C23AC2"><img alt="2BB15A1A-F510-4C78-A30C-0A2DC7C23AC2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653871620_2cbdcf7e65_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I found these buttons at Stone Mountain and they were exactly what I was looking for. I have written lots of posts previously on doing bound buttonholes on the front of a coat, and if you want to see the details here are a couple of links: <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2020/02/red-plaid-wool-coat-part-2-bound.html" target="_blank">Red coat</a> and scroll down on this <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2021/04/some-jumpsuits-for-friends-and.html" target="_blank">plaid coat post</a>.</div><div>I think it's interesting that most of the coat and jacket patterns I have made recently (at least all the European ones) have this construction of collar with the small stand, and neither piece is cut on the bias. I find it a bit odd although it works fine. This is as compared to a one-piece under collar cut on the bias.</div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655667715/in/dateposted/" title="E23167F8-42B6-41D7-99C8-C06FAC4F7AD2"><img alt="E23167F8-42B6-41D7-99C8-C06FAC4F7AD2" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655667715_149044e0d9_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>Here are the sleeves ready to go, with interfacing around the armhole and also at the hem. Because I made a muslin and marked the exact sleeve length I could adjust the length and then hem them before attaching to the coat. Also because I sew the lining in by hand as opposed to bagging the lining.</div></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655672775/in/dateposted/" title="10CA25DD-C476-411F-9918-16A3B95846D3"><img alt="10CA25DD-C476-411F-9918-16A3B95846D3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655672775_2763ec3da2_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's the inside of the coat with just the last steps of attaching the sleeves and then the hem plus lining. The buttons are sewn on because I always complete the front closures before doing the hem, this insures that the front overlaps nicely and the hem is even at the center front. Note this pattern had in-seam pockets but I changed that to welt pockets across the front princess seam. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52655231181/in/dateposted/" title="883D6DF1-2846-4A8A-80A2-0C0FAA38F3E2"><img alt="883D6DF1-2846-4A8A-80A2-0C0FAA38F3E2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655231181_5ecbcd7208_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Still a few steps to finish the sleeves, doing the sleeve heads and putting the shoulder pads. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52654740707/in/dateposted/" title="Burda 7169 wool coat"><img alt="Burda 7169 wool coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52654740707_644ed5e0bc_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The next post will be some details on hemming and the finished coat photos.</div><div>Since my recent foot surgery (almost at 4 weeks now) I think I will be back to driving later this week although no long trips. And not much work in the garden - it feels ok if I walk very gingerly but I think I need to take it easy for a couple more weeks. I guess that means more sewing! </div><div>Up next, I'm making some more corduroy jeans, and then I might squeeze in a wool jacket for myself before the temps warm up. What I really should do is finish my closet cleaning which I promised myself to do during this stuck-at-home time. </div><div>Who knows, I might find some gem in my fabric stash, it does seem to suprise me with stuff I forgot all about!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #0c343d; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Happy Sewing,</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #0c343d; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Here's today's garden picture - We have daffodils! as well there should be, I planted about 80 bulbs in the fall and always forget where I put them so it is a happy suprise when they pop up. Also note on that rose bush all those stems popping out. Spring is coming :)</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52680746647/in/dateposted/" title="Untitled"><img alt="Untitled" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52680746647_42e79d18d5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-73486589083776680672023-02-06T14:35:00.003-08:002023-05-27T09:28:44.343-07:00Burda 7169 classic coat in camel wool from Britex<p>If you read my previous post you saw that I am stuck at home now recovering from a foot surgery. It's going well and I should be back to being out and about in another 1-2 weeks. So I need to continue my resolution of using this forced stuck-at-home time to blog projects that are long completed. I have been meaning to get to this one as I know you really like when I show projects I make for my friend Heather. Custom fitting, gorgeous fabrics, classic designs - sewing heaven. </p><p>To start with, a small sneak peek of the finished coat.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52673703679/in/dateposted/" title="Burda camel wool coat"><img alt="Burda camel wool coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52673703679_5237a463c0_c.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</p><p>Here is the inspiration photo of a coat she saw online. </p><div><br an="" and="" br="" coat="" color="" exact="" had="" heather="" image="" me="" of="" she="" shown="" that="" the="" wanted.="" /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653590484/in/dateposted/" title="Burda 7169 wool coat"><img alt="Burda 7169 wool coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653590484_002d02230b_b.jpg" width="524" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So I searched among coat patterns to find this style. Actually it turned out that I had used parts of the following pattern for a coat I made for her back in 2013! But that copy of the pattern was really chopped up and I wanted to start fresh so I ordered a new copy on on Ebay. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653590489/in/dateposted/" title="Burda 7169 wool coat"><img alt="Burda 7169 wool coat" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653590489_fea25e29b7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think it's important to note the drawings for this coat, and why I chose it, apart from having the same lapel shape and look of the example coat. Two words - Shoulder princess seams! They are just absolutely the best for adjusting the fit, particularly for a full bust. You can see they have pockets in the front princess seam which I always think are useless, and the example coat has horizontal double welt pockets but it was pretty easy to add those. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653768890/in/dateposted/" title="Burda 7169 drawing"><img alt="Burda 7169 drawing" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653768890_df0772e660_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's the fabric which we bought at Britex in San Francisco. In person - she is not an internet fabric buyer and always needs to see the color and texture in person. So we make our periodic trips over the bridge to SF for shopping. I'm not 100% sure but I think it is <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/mid-weight-handsome-camel-wool-cashmere-blend-coating.html" target="_blank">this fabric from the Britex website,</a> or something similar. They have so much more in the store than online.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653756775/in/photostream/" title="AF95DEEC-A874-482C-86B7-C7D5174A5993_1_201_a"><img alt="AF95DEEC-A874-482C-86B7-C7D5174A5993_1_201_a" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653756775_d734dee3d7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I cut 2 four inch squares from the fabric and steamed and pressed one of them like crazy, in an attempt to check how much it would shrink. I cut the pieces, and compare to my paper test square. The answer was almost not at all, so I then moved on to my interfacing tests. Although there probably wasn't much question, I used the Fashion Sewing Supply <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=29" target="_blank">Pro-Weft Lightweight </a>for most of the coat, hems, undercollar, coat front and then the <a href="https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_31&products_id=30">Sheer Elegance Light </a>for the upper collar and lapel facing. </div><div><br /></div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52652825772/in/dateposted/" title="376CA8C3-F013-431E-945A-94DB4E42602E"><img alt="376CA8C3-F013-431E-945A-94DB4E42602E" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52652825772_72ea32d74b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52652825772/in/dateposted/" title="376CA8C3-F013-431E-945A-94DB4E42602E"><br /></a></div><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52652825772/in/dateposted/" title="376CA8C3-F013-431E-945A-94DB4E42602E">I did do a fitting muslin and it just needed a couple of adjustments, including snugging up the lapel which was too long in the center. You can see the dashed lines cutting across the lapel at center front indicating how much to shorten. I pin both sidces and then take an average of the amount, and then apply to the pattern piece. The other adjustment was taking in the princess seam over the bust, which I did on the paper pattern pieces but tried not to overdo it as I wanted to adjust it specifically in the real fabric. I think sometimes a muslin might seem to fit but the coat fabric is thicker and takes up more space so that is something to keep in mind. </a></div><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52652825772/in/dateposted/" title="376CA8C3-F013-431E-945A-94DB4E42602E"><br /></a></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653758325/in/dateposted/" title="62A18FEB-2352-40B1-980C-5E58BF300800_1_201_a"><img alt="62A18FEB-2352-40B1-980C-5E58BF300800_1_201_a" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653758325_968e45e6b7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Onward to cutting out, and I like to use these shears which were given to me long ago as a Christmas present by the same great-aunt who first taught me to sew. And yes I am team "cut out that pattern tissue" if I have a copy I cut it! You can always find another copy for sale if you need again. </div><div><br /></div> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52653321241/in/dateposted/" title="CC34DD86-36B4-4A9F-9540-4B9A3654602D"><img alt="CC34DD86-36B4-4A9F-9540-4B9A3654602D" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653321241_45b7288bf2_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's a start to this coat - which I think will take 2 or 3 more posts to complete. </div><div>What else have I been working on? In between other projects I cut out another pair of Ash jeans, in burgundy corduroy. And I have an urge to sew up a one or two nice blouse patterns I've seen recently. I just finished doing a Trouser class online with Hello Stitch and once my foot is back in action I will schedule more in-person and online classes. AND I can't wait to get back out in my garden, so many things to trim and seeds to start. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Take care and Happy Sewing,</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></i></b></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">In garden news before I had the foot surgery I got out and trimmed all the roses and hydrangeas which was a good idea as they are all sprouting their spring growth now. I came across this little fellow on my favorite rose bush so it was good to see even in these freezing temps. Well, freezing for us - below 32ºF at night, getting down to 29ish sometimes here. </span></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></i></b></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52641801468/in/dateposted/" title="Ladybug on rose bush"><img alt="Ladybug on rose bush" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52641801468_2c47a85751_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-48595829145226950922023-01-21T20:56:00.003-08:002023-01-21T20:56:53.782-08:00Just-Patterns Veronica Vest with more jeans<p>Happy New Year everybody! I have taken an unintentional break from posting here on the blog. Life just got really busy with family and other obligations taking up my time, but I have definitely been sewing since I last posted in October. As well as teaching classes, finishing my garden remodel, and just taking a rest after a very busy summer and fall. Also I knew I would have time now to catch up on all my blog posting, as I am recovering from a foot surgery this week, so what better time than to sit with my laptop, reclining on the couch, catching up on movies, blogs and emails.</p><p>I have what I call "house arrest" for at least 2 weeks and maybe up to 4 weeks so I will have a lot of time to catch up. I think in a week or so I can get around in the house better, as of today I can very gingerly walk around so it's not too bad. But no driving since it's my right foot. Which means it's time to do tasks I've saved for this month, such as the not so fun working on my taxes and the slightly more fun of reorganizing my recipe files. And then when I feel a bit better I can do some low-key sewing projects. </p><p>The day before this surgery I threw on these items and took some pictures so I could actually post some of my December sewing. I made the wool tweed version of the <a href="https://just-patterns.com/shop/veronica-vest-pdf-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Veronica Vest by Just-Patterns</a> and then when I made the blue corduroy jeans I had enough remaining to make another vest. </p><p>Here's the tweed version of the vest, this piece of black and white wool was a remnant saved from <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2017/11/bamboo-coat-from-waffle-patterns.html#comment-form" target="_blank">making a coat</a> which was a sample for a class at Hello Stitch back in 2017.</p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637015217/in/dateposted/" title="Blackjeans and vest2"><img alt="Blackjeans and vest2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637015217_8555acecfd_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>It's perfect for this vest and uses up a remnant, so a win. The jeans are my go-to pattern for all jeans which is the <a href="https://megannielsen.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/ash-jeans-sewing-pattern" target="_blank">Megan Nielsen Ash jeans</a>. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the second version of these same patterns together.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637970855/in/dateposted/" title="blue cord jeans and vest2"><img alt="blue cord jeans and vest2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637970855_3843b121ba_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think what I have ended up with are some very mix-and matchable and usable separates that I can wear with a lot of other items in my wardrobe. I've already worn the jeans several times with different sweaters. </div><div>I had been searching for some nice stretch corduroy in colors for ages but in the fall as a Minerva Maker I was offered the opportunity to sew with their fabric and it's a great fabric. I will definitely use it again, now I want purple cords. This is their <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1242443/minerva-core-range-7-wale-stretch-woven-jumbo-cord-fabric-almond&variant=1242419" target="_blank">Minerva Core Range Stretch 7-Wale Cord fabric,</a> the color was French Navy. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637991135/in/dateposted/" title="ash jeans pattern with blue cord"><img alt="ash jeans pattern with blue cord" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637991135_30a6f002d8_b.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now for some sewing details. I have this jeans pattern dialed in and have the various leg widths that I might want to use traced out and ready to go. I decided for these I wanted a slightly wider leg, I guess it's just about a bootcut shape. I have made the Version D Flare leg and I thought they came out a bit too wide, so after completing I went back and narrowed them slightly. <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2020/11/patrones-402-coat-no7-in-teal-wool-tweed.html" target="_blank">Here's the post where those jeans are pictured,</a> as it turns out that is the same cord fabric from Joann's that I used in the black jeans above. </div><div><br /></div><div>So to make the bootcut I just measured the opening on my teal green cord jeans as well as a couple of other pairs of bootcut pants that I have, and added to my existing pattern pieces to get the opening the same circumference. See below I have taped on tracing paper to the bottom of the pants leg pattern piece.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637549086/in/dateposted/" title="cutting out Ash jeans pattern"><img alt="cutting out Ash jeans pattern" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637549086_53b99ef166_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>And then I played around with the width until I got it to where I liked the look. Also I happen to have these suede booties (which I now have in 3 colors - they are that comfortable) so I hemmed to wear with those. </div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637543026/in/dateposted/" title="boot cut cord jeans"><img alt="boot cut cord jeans" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637543026_85b8ba8fb3_b.jpg" width="548" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Since I was conserving fabric as I cut out these blue cords, I decided to use some denim remnants for the inside waistband. And I used the wrong side of the denim as some of these dark blue denims give off dye for ages despite many washes. My beige leather car seats can attest to the power of blue dye on blue jeans, unbelievable how much color comes off year after year of wearing, despite many washes. Also I prefer to make the pocket bags continue to the center front and create a waist stay, like you see in many ready to wear jeans. I think it keeps the pockets linings from coming out of the top of that front pocket, and also counteracts the stretch in that area of the pants. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637977095/in/dateposted/" title="blue cord jeans, zipper fly"><img alt="blue cord jeans, zipper fly" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637977095_9e951244ff_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the vest and jeans together. I know I cut out the corduroy with the nap running in the same direction for both pieces however I think they look a bit different in all the photos. Perhaps because I've worn the jeans several times and not yet worn the vest? Anyway - you can see that there are not facings in the vest, I did change up the pattern as I went along. Mostly because I was short for time and decided to omit the facings and just do a full lining which I sewed in and then pulled through on the lining side seams. I did put interfacing around the neck and bottom edge which is similar to the pattern instructions. </div><div><br /></div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637982315/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cord jeans and vest on hangers"><img alt="Blue cord jeans and vest on hangers" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637982315_1ec4b63e89_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637982315/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cord jeans and vest on hangers"><br /></a></div><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637982315/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cord jeans and vest on hangers">In fact the tweed one was sewn first, and I tried out the full lining method on that one. Also you can see that my lining is brown! That's what the lining scrap box offered up when I started rummaging. I figured it is not at all seen when the vest is worn and it was thick enough to counteract the itch factor of this wool.</a></div><div><a dhref="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637982315/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cord jeans and vest on hangers"><br /></a></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637982295/in/dateposted/" title="Black tweed vest and jeans on hangers"><img alt="Black tweed vest and jeans on hangers" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637982295_8ce2c51542_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637015257/in/dateposted/" title="black vest and jeans back"><img alt="black vest and jeans back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637015257_09c74ea441_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I also didn't have the hardware slider for the back vest belt so I just tied it in a knot. which works as well. Really the whole project was a late night sewing whim that turned out pretty well and reduced by fabric stash by 2 pieces. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a closer look at the black corduroy jeans. I got this fabric at Joann's maybe 3 years ago? or 2 years? What is time anyway - with our various periods of lockdown things tend to blur together. But it is the same fabric as the teal corduroy Ash jeans. Every once in a while I find really good fabrics in one category at Joanns, which is bottom weight items, whether it is denim, ponte or corduroy. If I go there intentionally looking I might come up with nothing, but if I am there for perhaps a color of thread or a last minute button requirement, I always look at the aisle of denim and corduroy and often find very nice quality fabrics. Weird - as most of their other stuff is pretty terrible. And slight rant, they used to carry Ambiance bemberg rayon lining in basics like navy, black and grey but those days are gone. I think that fabric is actually hard to come by anywhere, apparently the pandemic and international shipments are the cause and I hope we see it again in local shops. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52638017513/in/dateposted/" title="Black cord jeans front"><img alt="Black cord jeans front" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52638017513_e13cf690a0_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I omitted some of the topstitching on the waistband and used black thread for all other topstitching. When it comes to jeans I'm a bit different as I really prefer tone-on-tone stitching, rarely a contrasting stitching for me, I like the look of the stitching disappearing into the fabric color. Even for my ready to wear jeans that I have purchased in the past, I see that I have many where the stitching is the same color as the fabric. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52637015207/in/dateposted/" title="Blue cord jeans and vest1"><img alt="Blue cord jeans and vest1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52637015207_c4aff5c58f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>Well that's the latest for my vest and jeans combos. I plan to do a few more posts in this next couple of weeks when I certainly will have time on my hands and my painful foot propped up on pillows! </div><div><br /></div><div>Up next, I made a gorgeous camel wool coat for my friend Heather that I know you will be interested in seeing, and then some wool trousers are just completed. I'm currently doing an online class with Hello Stitch on sewing trousers - this is a new class for me and we had lots of sign ups. Maybe this very chilly winter has everyone thinking about warm wool pants. </div><div><br /></div><div>So I hope everyone is having a great new year and thanks very much for the kind words and emails checking to see if I had disappeared from the sewing blog world. Not yet!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i>Happy 2023 Sewing,</i></span></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i>Beth</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Perhaps we are edging out of our drought here in California, after the 3 weeks of unbelievable rainstorms. With trees uprooted all over and lots of flooding, my corner of the bay area came through it ok. As we all said, we want this much rain, just not all in one week! One day as it was storming I heard a different sound and saw the hail which probably didn't make my lemon tree very happy although there are still plenty of lemons ripening. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52641583894/in/dateposted/" title="Hail on the lemon tree"><img alt="Hail on the lemon tree" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52641583894_9f72339707_b.jpg" width="768" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-65478598051473735802022-11-03T16:25:00.002-07:002022-11-12T09:08:04.293-08:00Blazer season, vintage Vogue 1193 pattern repeat<p>Last month I was surveying my fabric stash and noticed this heavy weight cotton sateen that I've had for absolutely ages, and decided it would make a neutral blazer to wear with lots of my various tops. Yes, solid red is a neutral for me :) I decided to repeat a pattern I had <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2022/04/vintage-vogue-blazer-in-purpleblack-wool.html" target="_blank">made earlier this year, </a>in a too heavy wool tweed that might have been better suited to a coat pattern. Also I was just about to begin my online Blazer making class, which is going well and everyone is conquering welt pockets. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447481703/in/dateposted/" title="red blazer at park2 vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="red blazer at park2 vintage Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447481703_b7feaa76fe_b.jpg" width="541" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the pattern envelope. If you look at the technical drawings on patterns you can see the lines and details, and realize that so many patterns are basically the same as a newly released pattern. This one has the option of pocket variations and also a double breasted version which I might just try. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51993390340/in/album-72157680968632355/" title="Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope"><img alt="Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope" height="523" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51993390340_f26b0d5265_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992840581/in/album-72157680968632355/" title="Vogue 1193 technical drawings"><img alt="Vogue 1193 technical drawings" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992840581_d2277f1702_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I did change the patch pockets of Version A out for the welt pockets of Version D.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look on the dress form.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447242724/in/dateposted/" title="Red blazer front vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Red blazer front vintage Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447242724_10ce280754_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>As you can see it is missing the button and buttonhole in the front. I didn't have a single button in my stash that would work, so I will leave it off for a while and see if I can find a nice one when I next go fabric shopping in Berkeley or SF.</div><div><br /></div><div>Let's talk about welt pockets. When I'm teaching the jacket making classes I always say once you get the welt pockets completed it's smooth sailing from there on. Well that might not be exactly true, but I like to be encouraging. Plus a nice welt pocket does make the jacket look so sharp and I think mastering that skill gives you a lot of confidence to tackle the other steps. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447411475/in/dateposted/" title="Red blazer pocket vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Red blazer pocket vintage Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447411475_7a44925651_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>This fabric doesn't have much room for error, not like a nice wool tweed that is soft and pliable, but on the plus side it's not going to unravel. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52446446257/in/dateposted/" title="Red inside pocket vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Red inside pocket vintage Vogue 1193" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52446446257_c449b0bbfb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>A look at the inside, I always make a thread ladder to show the pocket line on the front of the jacket as that is where you apply and stitch the pocket welts. The pocket pieces for the welts are something you can toss, I never use and just make my own, longer than needed and then cut down as I apply.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447411450/in/dateposted/" title="pocket welt sewing vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="pocket welt sewing vintage Vogue 1193" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447411450_5e5e1ff594_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>If you have an open toe foot for your machine it does make seeing where you are stitching a lot easier. </div><div><br /></div><div>And just to show that we all make mistakes, these little folds of fabric can happen anywhere you are stitching, this was on the lower pocket lining and it was a quick step to unstitch and redo it. I think they also happen so often when sewing in sleeves as well, just a tiny bit of fabric gets folded as you are sewing along and it makes a pucker. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447411400/in/dateposted/" title="Pocket mistake2 vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Pocket mistake2 vintage Vogue 1193" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447411400_84502634e2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52446970856/in/dateposted/" title="Red blazer at park3 vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Red blazer at park3 vintage Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52446970856_27d1f92f33_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Of course wearing my Ash jeans. I love that pattern! Just cut out a corduroy flare version with <a href="https://www.minerva.com/mp/1242443/minerva-core-range-7-wale-stretch-woven-jumbo-cord-fabric-beige&variant=1242419" target="_blank">stretch corduroy from Minerva</a> which is exactly the corduroy I had been searching for. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52474065647/in/dateposted/" title="Red jacket back 2 views"><img alt="Red jacket back 2 views" height="367" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52474065647_d1238edeb1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I did put the back vent in this one, it seemed to go with the style and color. As usual I omitted the back facing and put the lining up to the edge of the collar.</div><div>Attaching the lining to the hem of the jacket and the vent were done with hand stitches. </div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52447481758/in/dateposted/" title="Red blazer at park vintage Vogue 1193"><img alt="Red blazer at park vintage Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52447481758_a108c94c26_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on this vintage pattern blazer. I just started to make a new coat for my friend Heather, in a beautiful camel colored wool from Britex so I will post about that project.</div><div>I have a few in-person and online classes scheduled between now and the end of the year. Including a couple of classes on fitting, <a href="https://thecottonpatch.shop/products/12-02-pattern-fitting-the-bodice-workshop?variant=43441823744215" target="_blank">Bodice Fitting</a> Dec. 2 and <a href="https://thecottonpatch.shop/products/12-03-pattern-adjustment-fit-workshop?variant=43441823645911" target="_blank">Pattern Adjustment-Make-Fit a Test Garment</a> on Dec. 3. I've listed all the upcoming classes on another page on this blog, at the top menu click on <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/p/sewing-class-schedule.html" target="_blank">Sewing Class Schedule</a>. The Bodice Fitting Class will also be an online version, on Sat. Dec 10 if that works for you.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's actually coat weather - I wore <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2015/12/burda-tri-color-coat-122012-138.html" target="_blank">my tricolor coat </a>last evening and it was just right. </div><div><br /></div><div>My front garden revamp is finished so other than planting a few daffodil bulbs (around 70) I'm putting the planting aside and waiting for everything to burst into bloom in spring. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Happy Sewing,</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo, a few of these daisies still blooming, it's a bit patch which I plan to divide for more plantings. Plus one of my bee friends visiting.<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52290879823/in/dateposted/" title="Daisy with bee"><img alt="Daisy with bee" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290879823_ef24173dec_b.jpg" width="639" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
</div>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-89879587111233172222022-10-01T08:23:00.003-07:002022-10-01T08:23:40.365-07:00Random Threads #41: patterns, magazines and a couple of new tops<p>Time for another Random Threads post, which is where I get to comment, observe and possibly rant on things I've come across in the sewing internet world. My last Random Threads was Oct. of 2021 so it's about time. And a couple of the topics touched on in the previous Random Threads are still relevant. </p><p>A quick detour to mention that my online Blazer class is starting next week on Tuesday Oct. 4. This is a 6-week course, we meet online at 6pm PST and I show how to make a lined blazer from start to finish. It's a mix of live discussion and video with plenty of time to ask questions. As you might guess this is my favorite class to teach and people have made fantastic items. Here is the link to the class on the Hello Stitch website: <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-intro-to-tailoring-sew-your-own-blazer-2" target="_blank">Blazer class.</a> Note that you don't have to make a blazer or sew along during the class. Some people do and others follow along and learn for when they have time and materials to make one. </p><p><b>Burda repeats:</b> Now that I have subscribed to BurdaStyle pattern magazine for what will be 5 years in November, I can see that they definitely do have a number of pattern repeats. Or they have a pattern in an issue that is basically the same as a previous one, with a slightly different detail, such as the sleeve, collar, pockets etc. I don't mind them so much but I can see that people who have a big stockpile of these magazines might be annoyed. I'm actually more annoyed by the shapeless sack patterns, those are a waste of space in my opinion. But on the whole I find at least one and often 2 or 3 interesting patterns in each issue so for me the value is very high. I think during the pandemic they did have more very similar styles but I am willing to cut anyone some slack during that period and just be glad they are consistently publishing. This all goes to reinforce my view that there are no new patterns! everything is a riff on a bunch of components. It would be fun to do a blog post with comparison of the same pattern in different decades just to show it.</p><p><b>New Look Patterns:</b> more pattern talk. I really like New Look patterns, over the past 10-15 years I've made some great dresses and tops from their patterns. I'm a bit sad to see the brand dwindling, they are putting out very few interesting ones. I happened to fit in their size range well (with admittedly was not as wide a size range as many other brands). They often had several completely different items in one envelope, the price was $3.99, and they printed many of the components like facings etc in each size so you didn't have to deal with the multi-size lines on those once you determined your size for the garment body pieces. <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2016/11/border-print-silk-top-in-jewel-tones.html" target="_blank">This tunic top pattern</a> is one of my go-to choices, I think I've made it at least 6 times. </p><p>Speaking of Tunic tops, here is some unselfish sewing I did recently. I made this tunic top for my mom as she casually mentioned I hadn't made her anything in a while. I used a different New Look pattern for this. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52347875117/in/dateposted/" title="Turquoise tunic top"><img alt="Turquoise tunic top" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52347875117_a0b6c16fce_b.jpg" width="620" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><b>Coat season:</b> do you every look at a pattern and think "well that one is going to be trouble?" I saw a new coat pattern from Style Arc, the Ormond coat (go search their website to see) and I thought it looked bulky and bathrobe-y with maybe just a few too many details. What do you think?</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Videos and Reels</b>: here is where I say that along with many I can't stand Reels on IG and actively try to avoid. I said to a friend the other day that my eyes can read faster than anyone can say or do anything in a video. I prefer print, I like to read about things and so short bursts of video, especially combined with the music are just annoying. Ok that's my rant, and I know I'm not alone in this one. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's another top I recently made. I had <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2018/07/so-over-it-eve-wrap-dress-in-rayon-woven.html" target="_blank">a dress that I made </a>as a display item for Hello Stitch, it was a nice but just not something I would ever wear. So I looked at it one day and thought there was plenty of fabric in the skirt to make a top. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52349077963/in/dateposted/" title="Blue top 3 views"><img alt="Blue top 3 views" height="401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52349077963_fa3de6b331_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52349147014/in/dateposted/" title="Burda04:22-108image"><img alt="Burda04:22-108image" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52349147014_25b34ac563_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I saw that pattern in the April Burda and wanted to make the dress but figured it would make a nice top as well. It's an ideal pattern for cotton lawn or silk so I'm sure I will revisit this next year. This dress was really popular and I saw lots of versions online as well. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Sewing Magazines:</b> do you subscribe to any sewing magazines? I renew my Threads magazine year after year and they are kind of piling up. I know you can access a lot of the info online so perhaps one of these days I will go through them and just keep articles of interest. I think I will always subscribe as at least a few times a year reading the articles I have learned something that was a game changer. I had a subscription to Sew News but I don't find it very informative and the projects are on the simple side. </div><div><br /></div><div>Well that's the latest for Random Threads. As I mentioned next week I start my <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-intro-to-tailoring-sew-your-own-blazer-2" target="_blank">Blazer class online via Hello Stitch,</a> and also I will start making a couple of tailored items for my friend Heather, using very beautiful and luxe fabrics from Britex. That should be fun - although I confess I am always a little scared to make that first cut into the fancy fabrics!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia;"><i><b>Happy Sewing and beware of all those first time costume stitchers at the fabric store 🎃.</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia;"><i><b><br /></b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>today's garden photo - my never ending garden remodel project is actually nearing the end. Here's a nice foxglove that was a seedling volunteer in my yard. My favorite type of plant - free!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52291367215/in/dateposted/" title="White foxglove"><img alt="White foxglove" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52291367215_37b9706731_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-27722701723415063522022-09-01T22:34:00.004-07:002022-09-02T11:24:13.888-07:00Birthday season - Burda 08/2022 #115 summer version<p>Each year since I started the blog I have typically made a new dress for my birthday which comes just around Labor Day (our end of summer holiday here in the US). During the pandemic I kept with that habit, although I have not worn those dresses as much as I ordinarily would. I finished this dress a few weeks ago and decided to call it my birthday dress for this year, mostly because I really like it. Expect to see this pattern used again as it's very simple to sew, works in a lot of different fabrics and seasons, and it's fun to wear!</p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52326782042/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral outside1"><img alt="Purple floral outside1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52326782042_af90b315d4_b.jpg" width="487" /></a><div><br /></div><div>The fun things about this dress is the flounce at the bottom. I'm very partial to dresses with this feature, or <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2019/07/simplicity-8606-wrap-skirt-and-new-look.html" target="_blank">skirts like this one.</a> <br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I'm not sure these days how blog posts look on a phone or tablet, as I compose them on my laptop, but have started to use Chrome as it works better with Blogger. But the photos may not appear in full if you are reading on a phone, so I'm adding images in different sizes.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52328329609/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral outside3"><img alt="Purple floral outside3" height="924" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328329609_55b6fb19f9_b.jpg" width="924" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the skirt with the flounce, which is sometimes called a circular ruffle (as opposed to a gathered ruffle). This one is not very flouncy - just enough for the proportions. </div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52328158385/in/dateposted/" title="purple floral dress hem"><img alt="purple floral dress hem" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328158385_5fd7e250cf_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br /></div><div><br />Speaking of proportions, I did a few adjustments for fit and style on this pattern.</div><div>Here's a look at image and drawing from the magazine.</div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52327982428/in/dateposted/" title="Dress082022-115image"><img alt="Dress082022-115image" height="621" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327982428_106e9f2c41_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So the obvious difference is sleeveless, I saw the line drawing and decided it would be an ideal dress for summer, minus the sleeves. Recently I really like bodice shaping that is accomplished by pleats so that caught my eye. </div><div><br />For fit I changed the proportion of the skirt quite a bit. After making a few things that are longer than knee length, I've realized that I just don't like to wear them. I think they make me look shorter and just don't suit me. Also they take too much fabric! So for this dress I cut out a Burda size 38 at the neck and shoulders, graded out a bit to land at about Burda 42 at the hip. I also raised the armholes about 1/2" and think it could have had another 1/4" raise but it's still wearable. The biggest change was shortening the skirt, I took a big horizontal tuck, maybe about 3 inches at the low hip, so shortening the upper portion of the skirt. This left the bottom edge where it met the flounce unchanged and easy to sew. I also made the flounce about 2 inches shorter. This was mostly due to not wanting a below knee dress and also to use the fabric I had which was I got at a fabric swap. It was 45" wide and I think there was barely 2 yards. In fact I had to piece the flounce but you can't see that. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52327091542/in/dateposted/" title="purple flower front and back"><img alt="purple flower front and back" height="542" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327091542_78216b693a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>It has a center back seam with a small opening at the back and is finished with a bias binding. I also used a bias binding on the armholes.</div><div><br />The placement of the waist casing was a bit lower than I wanted. If you look a the image above the waist drawstring looks a bit low to me. I marked it as the pattern indicated but tried it on before I sewed on the casing which is inside the dress, and decided to raise it 1.25". I think if I sew this again (likely) I will do the same and wait to see how whatever fabric I choose works out before deciding on the placement of that waist drawstring. </div><div>Here's a closeup look at the center front waist. I put a small piece of fusible interfacing over the center point, then made two machine buttonholes at either side of the center front. That allows a casing on the inside and the ties to pull through to the outside and be tied at center. <br /><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52328032734/in/dateposted/" title="bias purple flower waist"><img alt="bias purple flower waist" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328032734_b8afd5793b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52328158430/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral buttonholes"><img alt="Purple floral buttonholes" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328158430_fae08a4875_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>And my little secret for very comfortable and easy to wear drawstrings is to use mostly elastic and then the self-fabric ties sewn to that. The ties extend about 6 inches inside on either side when it is tied so it doesn't show. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52328035259/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral outside2"><img alt="Purple floral outside2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52328035259_4d6ab54b3e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>You can tell I really like this dress - the silhouette is one of my favorites. And this fabric is both weird and lovely. The colors are also my favorites, and it's an odd combo of floral, polka dot and plaid. I wish I had it in another colorway but I do think it's vintage, you can just tell by the feel sometimes plus the 45" width, that it's probably 20 years old, was in someone's stash and now I've let it out into the world. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52327982498/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral side view"><img alt="Purple floral side view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327982498_1c875d21a3_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>And because taking photos for the blog or IG makes you feel a bit goofy, plus my photographer said try a different pose.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52327979518/in/dateposted/" title="Purple floral outside 4"><img alt="Purple floral outside 4" height="1024" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52327979518_049d90d5cf_b.jpg" width="904" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest but probably not last dress of this summer. Which here is going on and on. Tourist Tip for anyone coming to San Francisco: September is the nicest month. Less fog, more sunshine. Although with the heat waves hitting the rest of the US and Europe, I read that the SF tourist organizations are considering promoting the city with "<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/27/us/san-francisco-weather.html" target="_blank">come cool down in SF</a>". However if you do be prepared, as we have every weather option in a 30 mile radius. OK I exaggerate but we are bracing for a heat spell this weekend with several days of over 107℉. That's where I live, in SF they are expecting around 80℉. So something for everyone and a bit too much for me! You can find me floating in the pool this weekend, being lazy, reading my library books (hurray for libraries!) and just doing as little as possible. </div><div><br /></div><div>Next week I have a <a href="https://www.woodengatequilts.com/module/class/453061/all-about-pants" target="_blank">Pants class</a> on Thursday in Danville and I have listed all my upcoming in-person and online classes <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/p/sewing-class-schedule.html" target="_blank">here on a new page I added to this blog.</a> </div><div><br /></div><div>I hope everyone has a relaxing, safe and healthy long Labor Day weekend. </div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Happy Sewing, </b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo, this morning glory on the back fence finally put out a few blooms and they are worth the wait for that color. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52290879553/in/dateposted/" title="Morning glory"><img alt="Morning glory" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290879553_5d48f92a74_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-90424001732703572582022-08-20T16:15:00.003-07:002022-08-20T16:15:43.557-07:00Myosotis Dress Summer Version in cotton poplin<p>Whew - here it is, our August heatwave. About 105º F now as I write this at 5pm. We've been a bit fortunate, considering our drought and fire danger that we haven't had many blazing heat waves this summer but it does always seem to occur just as school starts again. (Don't get me started on that topic, I know the school schedule is quite different than when I was in elementary school but it was nice back them to have <u>all</u> of August to enjoy summer). </p><p>A few years ago I taught a dress class at Hello Stitch and so used this pattern, at that time I made an example plus a version for myself. I alway thought about revisiting this pattern as I wear my original version a lot - like a lot! It's such an easy dress to wear, ideal for a warm day. I got this pink fabric at a sewing guild sale (more on that later). Here's <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2019/06/deer-and-doe-myosotis-dress-and-true.html" target="_blank">a link to that first version. </a></p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52290875538/in/dateposted/" title="Pink dress 3"><img alt="Pink dress 3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290875538_67e4c2d0c2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>If you are familiar with this pattern you can see it has quite a few differences. That's the beauty of making your own clothes - you can change any detail you like.</div><div>I was so happy with the changes that I made on my first version that I repeated them exactly here. The changes are these:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Omitted the collar</li><li>Lowered the neckline</li><li>Skipped the sleeves and finished armholes with bias binding</li><li>Pleated the skirt instead of gathers</li><li>added a small waist tie in the back</li></ul><div>I thought about adding a small ruffle at the hem, around 3 or 4 inches but decided it didn't go with the pleated skirt and also this dress might be just a little too saccharine with a ruffle added to that bright pink. </div></div><div><br /></div><div>I really love this fabric and it has been in my stash now about two years so I'm glad to finally be wearing it. </div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52289898497/in/dateposted/" title="Pink sateen dress close up"><img alt="Pink sateen dress close up" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52289898497_fd2fb6f9c6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>A few sewing details. I am slightly obsessive about keeping my interfacing scraps and neckline facings are a great way to use them up. So I found this piece in my interfacing bin and it was sufficient to use for the back neck facing. Interfacing doesn't need to go all the way to the edge of a facing, I find if it just crosses over the stitching line then it's doing the job. You end up trimming most of those seam allowances away anyway after the facing is attached. Actually looking more closely, it's actually two scraps. On the right is a smaller piece which fit in that area. So use the interfacing scraps instead of throwing them away!</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52290875483/in/dateposted/" title="Facing example"><img alt="Facing example" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290875483_5f8de07bda_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>To change the neckline I just drew on a new neck opening. I should have made notes from the previous version but that one I did kind of free form and liked the result, but never went back and marked my pattern pieces. So I compared that blue version to the original pattern pieces and saw that I opened up the neckline by stitching it about 1.5 inches from the original edge. Marked below with a Frixon pen.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52291137934/in/dateposted/" title="Neckline stitching"><img alt="Neckline stitching" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52291137934_3253bbd609_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52290867516/in/dateposted/" title="Pink Dress Back"><img alt="Pink Dress Back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52290867516_843120dc82_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Back view. </div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest in comfortable cotton summer dresses for a very hot spell here in N. California. Which we are pretty much used to but it does wear you out after a few days. I do feel bad for everyone in places like London or other cities which are not used to the heat, and have no air conditioning. Which I rarely use but it's nice to have! </div><div><br /></div><div>Up next, I have all kinds of scribbles in my notebook for a long overdue Random Threads post. I usually make a dress specifically for my birthday which is nearing but I don't think I will this year - after the cutback in socializing due to the pandemic I have plenty of dresses that haven't received much wear. Maybe I will change course and make a birthday jacket.</div><div><br /></div><div>Speaking of jackets, I went to Britex with my friend Heather recently so you can expect to see some beautiful and luxurious fabrics turned into a coat and a jacket in the coming months. I will be teaching my online blazer class via Hello Stitch starting in October, here's <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-intro-to-tailoring-sew-your-own-blazer-2" target="_blank">the link to register.</a></div><div><br /></div><div>At the top of this blog I have added a page entitled <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/p/sewing-class-schedule.html" target="_blank">Sewing Class Schedule</a>, which I will keep updated with links to all classes I am teaching here in the bay area and online. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52289898472/in/dateposted/" title="Pink dress4"><img alt="Pink dress4" height="573" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52289898472_1a240faf12_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>My garden remodel project is almost finished, the front just needs a few touches and I'm waiting for some plants I ordered from Annie's Annuals. Which is an amazing plant nursery in Richmond CA that has a great selection including a focus on California natives, cottage garden favorites and beautiful succulents. It's a bit like fabric shopping - so hard to decide and limit myself to just a few. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Happy Summer Sewing,</i></span></b></div><div><b><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Beth</i></span></b></div><div><b><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><br /></i></span></b></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Today's garden photo, in addition to the one above, it's a penstemon called "Bev Jensen" and the flowers are hot pink like my dress. I really like this hardy little plant and I've taken all kinds of cuttings which propagate easily. My kind of plant!</span></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52291142269/in/dateposted/" title="Penstemon Bev Jensen"><img alt="Penstemon Bev Jensen" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52291142269_69dbbfa505_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-4537707439517217682022-08-09T18:06:00.001-07:002022-08-09T18:06:04.439-07:00Vintage Color Block T-Shirt: Stretch and Sew 309<p>For a while I have been intrigued by the old Stretch and Sew patterns. I've acquired a few over recent years and then recently I found one at a guild sale that might become my new favorite pattern. I always say that, right? Well that's what keeps me sewing, finding a new-to-me pattern that I really like. Actually I thought Stretch and Sew and Kwik Sew patterns were the same company, but a bit of research has told that they are not. The two companies were started by two different women in the 1960's and both seemed to focus on knit fabrics. I have about 5 or 6 of these Stretch and Sew patterns now and you can bet that I will revisit them to find some more gems. I have a top/dress pattern that you would think is a current design, so that may get sewn up soon. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52271604785/in/dateposted/" title="Kwik Sew t-shirt"><img alt="Kwik Sew t-shirt" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271604785_c1df63c348_b.jpg" width="639" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Also this t-shirt was sewn up entirely with scraps and remnants from my stash. Which tells me a couple of things. 1) I definitely have a color palette that I stick to and 2) I keep a lot of knit scraps. For this version I wanted to make something to go along with the July challenge on the SewOver50 Instagram account, the theme was color block. So I was all in - I can never turn down a color-block opportunity. </div><div>You can expect to see this pattern again, in fact I have been collecting old pink/burgundy/wine color cashmere sweaters from the thrift stores for the past 3 or 4 years with just this type of thing in mind. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the image of the pattern. I sewed mostly a size 38 with some grading out at the hips and the fit was perfect. Another bonus point for these patterns. Also it has kind of a high crew neck which I like in t-shirts. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52271110886/in/dateposted/" title="Kwiksew tshirt pattern"><img alt="Kwiksew tshirt pattern" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271110886_b84d52fdb8_b.jpg" width="516" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The sleeves were just a bit too short for my liking, so I hemmed them by adding a band, similar to the neckline to preserve the length and add about 1/4".</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52270145357/in/dateposted/" title="Kwik sew tshirt close up"><img alt="Kwik sew tshirt close up" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52270145357_7c597a5c83_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Even though this seems a bit fussy from tracing to finish I think it took me about 2 hours. That is not including the 30 min or so I spent playing around with the colors. To get that last light color section in the center I did rummage around in my t-shirt drawer and finally cut a small piece out of the back of one of my old Target brand t-shirts which I just wear around the house. </div><div><br /></div><div>The instructions were excellent, short and to the point but very easy to follow. The seam allowance was 1/4" which worked well for those small pieces. Although I didn't follow them to the letter as I like to sew the neckband in the round. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52275711044/in/dateposted/" title="Stretch and Sew Instructions"><img alt="Stretch and Sew Instructions" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52275711044_54e67afa47_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52270145327/in/dateposted/" title="Kwiksew t-shirt back"><img alt="Kwiksew t-shirt back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52270145327_43e102bd42_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Back view. Not very interesting but it shows the subtle shaping of the t-shirt. I toyed with the idea of making the sleeves different color knits but I'm glad I just went with the base color for those and kept the color block to the sunburst area. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52271110946/in/dateposted/" title="Color block tee test"><img alt="Color block tee test" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52271110946_6b0d1b294c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Before I make any color block item I play around with the colors with whatever is to hand, here a combo of colored pencils and sharpie markers. Just to see how it would look. And I decided to repeat the colors which the pattern also calls for. Not sure if I did it just as they did. I just cut them out as I went along and laid them out so I wouldn't get confused. Then it was pretty simple to sew together in order and construct the rest of the t-shirt. </div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on my speedy little t-shirt. Up next, I've sewn a couple of summer dresses which I have had some nice chances to wear - so much better than 2 summers ago when we did so much backyard/Zoom socializing. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm teaching classes in person at a couple of shops in the Bay Area, and I'm going to create a page here on the blog so I can list them as they get on the calendar. </div><div>But my favorite class is coming up - yes, Blazer jackets! My online/live class which I did last year is starting on Oct. 4. <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-intro-to-tailoring-sew-your-own-blazer-2" target="_blank">Here's the link to register on the Hello Stitch Studio website. </a></div><div><br /></div><div>The never-ending garden project is in the final stage, the back is complete (well is a garden ever complete?) and the front should be done in the next week or so. Then I can rest, hahahaha, I mean rake leaves, prune shrubs and battle gophers. </div><div><span style="color: #674ea7; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i><br /></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #674ea7; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i>Happy Summer Sewing,<br />Beth</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photos - a bonanza of photos at this blooming time of year. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52270147847/in/dateposted/" title="Kwik sew t-shirt sunny day"><img alt="Kwik sew t-shirt sunny day" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52270147847_820328a996_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>I should show you some closeups of the grapevine behind me in that photo - I sewed little mesh bags to protect my grapes from squirrels. </div><div><br /></div><div>And below, a beautiful purple hydrangea to match my t-shirt :) </div><div><br /></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52199525506/in/dateposted/" title="hydrangea purple"><img alt="hydrangea purple" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52199525506_a8dd18013f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-49644443026557948462022-07-17T21:59:00.005-07:002022-07-17T21:59:55.787-07:00Part 2: Finished Dress with Ruffles - BurdaStyle 05/2022 # 102 <p>Here's my finished dress and I am really happy with the combination of fabric and pattern. Sometimes that just works out perfectly and this is such a case. Plus this post is something of a two for the price of one - you get a look at my garden project which has been taking up a lot of my time this year. It might not look all that different but like any project there's a lot going, and I will include more details below. </p><p>But back to sewing - this fabric is a woven rayon challis that I ordered from Fabric-Mart, maybe last year? I really liked the color and was waiting for a suitable pattern to use. <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2022/07/with-ruffles-part-1-fitting-burdastyle.html" target="_blank">In my last post </a>you can see the pattern details with pictures from the May Burda magazine issue. Also in that post I wrote a bit about doing fit adjustments on this pattern. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52216992968/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress shorter1"><img alt="Orange dress shorter1" height="457" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52216992968_d59f80f646_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>It was all finished and I took a few pictures, then looking at those decided I didn't like the length. In the right style longer skirts and dresses are something that look nice but every time I make one for myself I never feel comfortable. I like dresses to hover around the knee, either just above or below. So these dress form pictures are the longer length and then above it has been hemmed about 4" shorter.</div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52224046530/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress front and back"><img alt="Orange dress front and back" height="533" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52224046530_c5e6d6b980_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I have a feeling that some people might prefer it longer but I prefer the shorter. Over the years things I have posted that were longer people seem to like and make comments to that effect which I find interesting - but we have to be comfortable in our clothes and I prefer a different proportion. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the longer length. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52215973387/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress longer1"><img alt="Orange dress longer1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52215973387_0c25e1ed90_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I also went back and forth on adding the ruffles which is an option in the pattern, but the fabric was so nice and soft so it seemed like it suited the style well, and I'm glad I did. Without the ruffles it's just a basic shirtdress. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52222554407/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress closeup"><img alt="Orange dress closeup" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52222554407_b406ac8bb6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>As I mentioned in the previous post, I did cover an existing belt to make the belt for this dress. I didn't have any belt backing in my stash of this width (1.25") which I thought was the right width for this style. So I rummaged in the closet to find a belt that I could use, and found one that I've never worn but it was just right. Well actually just right would have been a lighter color buckle but this worked out well enough. </div><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I made eyelets on my sewing machine for the holes and then stitched it on by hand starting at that end. Then another eyelet at the end for the tongue of the buckle to fit into, hand stitching it closed along the length of the belt. I made an extra loop and stitched that about 3 inches away from the buckle as belts without that always look messy to me. I know the inside of the belt doesn't look perfect but I don't mind at all if the inside is messy when it looks fine on the outside. </div></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52221207419/in/dateposted/" title="orange dress belt"><img alt="orange dress belt" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52221207419_f33a2f1bbb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>Another change to the pattern was to add pockets, of course. A shirtdress with no pockets - unthinkable! I like to have slippery lining type fabric for my pockets so I don't usually use the same fabric. If you look at the side seam you can see on the back of the pocket I put a facing using the dress fabric so you don't get a glimpse of the lining when wearing. </div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52220937856/in/dateposted/" title="Pocket inside orange dress"><img alt="Pocket inside orange dress" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52220937856_78efd4709f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Side by side comparison of the dress at different lengths. I will say that the longer one on the left is not looking too bad in the image but I think the breeze is doing a bit of work there. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52215973447/in/dateposted/" title="orange dress comparison"><img alt="orange dress comparison" height="401" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52215973447_2672f2da5d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I actually took more photos the first time, prior to shortening. Here's another one. See I think that hem lands at the wrong place, it looks too 1950's for my style plus I prefer the proportion of more leg. Well, that's why we sew - to get just what we want, right? Also this is a bit of a blank area in the garden, covered with mulch. I have to resist putting plants everywhere as the ones I've already planted are going to get bigger and take up space, plus this time of year is too hot and dry to start them off. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52217254324/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress longer 2"><img alt="Orange dress longer 2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52217254324_f271bf00b6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Looking at that picture I think I've reached the limit of my home haircutting ability. Yes I'm still doing it myself - some months it comes out better than others. I was just thinking of going back to a hairdresser but then the urge overtook me this morning and I cut it myself with a good result. </div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52216981311/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress shorter2"><img alt="Orange dress shorter2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52216981311_d6b1888899_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on this rayon shirtdress. Up next - I just started another version of my <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2019/06/deer-and-doe-myosotis-dress-and-true.html" target="_blank">very modified Myosotis dress </a>so that will be great for hot weather. Looking at that post you can see the garden in the before stage. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm teaching some in person classes here in the east bay and I will write about upcoming ones in my next post. I just got a really cute vintage t-shirt pattern which is perfect for the Color Blocking challenge on IG via @sewover50 so I'd like to get that sewn up this month. </div><div><br /></div><div>A few notes about the garden update. My water company offered a rebate for removing lawns, and cutting back on water using landscaping. Being that all the existing irrigation system front and back were very much past their prime it needed to be reworked. After being at home for the last two years I could water as needed but here a timer is essential to water before 6 am and also to be able to go away for longer than a day. So that was the impetus to update everything. The front is still a work in progress but there my lawn area is gone and will be replaced with more succulents, a rock river and a lot of penstemon and salvia for color. In the back we took out the grass completely, made it a bit smaller in area, and replaced the grass with Kurapia which is a low-water use ground-cover. So far it's working out well but I think it takes some getting used to. Also you have to wait a while before mowing it down to be a low ground-cover so it looks a bit unruly or as I call it fluffy, right now. </div><div>The crepe myrtle trees stayed (of course) as well as the roses, hydrangeas and all the existing salvias. I planted quite a few new salvias and penstemon, plus some slightly exotic pelargoniums, some dusty miller to lighten things up, and then a few foxgloves that I had been growing in pots. And a few petunias for instant color. Some daisies in one area and a couple of gardenias which I will call vintage but seem happy enough to put out plenty of flowers. The salvias and penstemon will fill out nicely by next year and be really pretty as well as loved by the hummingbirds. I have three albutilons in the back in different colors and they are lovely as well. Plants are a bit like fabric, it's very challenging to resist buying them when you see them but then when you get home you have to find somewhere to put them! </div><div><br /><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52216992378/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress shorter3"><img alt="Orange dress shorter3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52216992378_772b6da02b_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>"Should I buy more plants or more fabric?" is what I'm thinking in that picture. </div><div><br /></div><div>Speaking of finding spots to store fabric, next week I'm going to Britex with my friend Heather - so let the fall sewing planning commence :)</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Happy Sewing,</b></i></span></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i><b>Beth</b></i></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Here's today's garden pictures, two of them. First is a close up of the Kurapia groundcover which grows laterally once it is mowed and settles in, but until then it's flowering and covered with bees. Which don't bother me at all, I'm so used to them and we ignore each other for the most part. (now wasps - they are the enemy along with gophers, racoons and other burrowing nemeses.) Second is a look at my newest Albutilon (which is a flowering maple, member of the Mallow family) in a lovely peachy pink. I think it's in a nice spot and should get about 8 feet high in a couple of years. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52199798589/in/dateposted/" title="Kurapia"><img alt="Kurapia" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52199798589_cdfdcf8d79_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52198527687/in/dateposted/" title="pink ablution"><img alt="pink ablution" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52198527687_430f961fc9_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-40390366139759246602022-07-02T21:30:00.000-07:002022-07-02T21:30:28.435-07:00With Ruffles: Part 1 Fitting - BurdaStyle 05/2022 # 102 <p>So much for my resolution to blog more this year, but now that summer is here and I have some free time I hope to get back to it. I've been busy teaching classes at a couple of local quilt shops that wanted to expand into garment classes. But my big project has been necessitated by the climate - we are in our third year of extreme drought, and prior to that in the last ten years we have only had a couple with plenty of rain. It looks like this is state of things now and all our water districts in N. California are urging people to change their landscaping to use less water. I was happy to do it and lessen my water bill, plus all the irrigation fixtures were at the point of needing replacement. Here's a little look at the work in progress. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52189644148" title="856D57F3-7F9F-4281-8A46-AC09538009BE"><img alt="856D57F3-7F9F-4281-8A46-AC09538009BE" height="483" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52189644148_0acb10136f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><p>Working with the existing footprint I have changed out the lawn for a drought tolerant groundcover, and then put in a bunch of low water use plants in the back. The front is still a work in progress but that will be more hardscape, with succulents and salvias. This picture was taken at the end of May so as of today the hydrangeas are fully covered in blooms and it looks so nice. </p><p>Back to sewing - along with many other subscribers had noticed the number of repeat patterns in the recent Burda magazines. It doesn't bother me as I generally find at least one (sometimes up to 5) patterns per issue to sew and I don't have a big backlog of magazines. I expect that with the pandemic their output is reduced and I am just happy that the magazine keeps arriving every month. </p><p>When I saw the preview of the May issue I was interested in the dress on the cover so that was what I traced right away.</p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185365593/in/dateposted/" title="Burda mag cover05-2022"><img alt="Burda mag cover05-2022" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185365593_db8c526d17_b.jpg" width="613" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I had the perfect fabric in my stash, a rayon woven that I ordered last summer? from Fabric Mart. Here's a sneak peek of the finished dress. This is part one of this dress and I will follow up with finished photos.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52190012095/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress collar"><img alt="Orange dress collar" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52190012095_4af1ca88b7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>As I was making it I really debated on whether or not to add the ruffles but without it that would just be a very basic shirtdress. And the one on the cover of the magazine is so cute!</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the technical drawing for this dress. It has a slightly cut in shoulder (my fav) but also a low armhole (not my fave). The skirt is both pleated and then gathered, which works nicely in a very lightweight fabric like woven rayon but wouldn't be suitable for anything thicker. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185607839/in/dateposted/" title="Orange dress tech drawing"><img alt="Orange dress tech drawing" height="567" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185607839_b5558b8567_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>Time to talk about fit. I know it might actually take more time, be more work but I like to adjust the pattern and perhaps add a bit extra, and then take away when I sew the side seams or attach the skirt. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here are the front and back bodice pieces, which I have traced at size 38, my usual Burda starting size. That is similar to a size 12 in Vogue/McCalls/Simplicity.</div><div><br /></div><div>Noted on the image are the adjustments that I did to the original size 38 pattern pieces. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185845400/in/dateposted/" title="Pattern Adj on paper orange dress"><img alt="Pattern Adj on paper orange dress" height="437" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185845400_0f89f919fa_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>- lengthen at Center back 1/2"</div><div>- add length center front 2" note I make the addition of length match up at the side seams</div><div>- lower dart 1/2"</div><div>- raise underarm about 1.5"</div><div>- added to the shoulder seam length about 1/2" outer edge so not quite so narrow.</div><div>- add on side seams, about 1" at top and closer to 2" at waist. This will be too much but I like to fit on my body.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once I had cut out and sewed up the placket/ruffle on the front bodice, and then sewed the shoulder seams, attached the collar, it was ready to fit on me. Actually I do use a dress form which I have "sculpted" that matches my measurements fairly closely for the initial pinning. If you click over to <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2020/02/red-plaid-wool-coat-part-1-preparation.html" target="_blank">this post for my red coat </a>and scroll down you will see the coat pattern piece pinned to the dress from, which is wearing a color blocked dress I made ages ago. That dress has a great fit, a defined waist and thus is ideal for keeping on the dress form to use as a comparison. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once I had tried it on and done a little basting of seams I came up with a fit that I liked. It's difficult to show those adjustments but I think this photo below illustrates it. The pink dotted line is about where I ended up sewing the dress bodice. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185368863/in/dateposted/" title="Pattern Adj final on paper orange dress"><img alt="Pattern Adj final on paper orange dress" height="437" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185368863_136907693a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So I kept the armholes raised. Moved the armhole edge a bit closer to pattern original at top of shoulder. Used only about 1/4" of the added back length, and only 1" of the added center front length, tapering to match the back at the side seam. Used the original side seam at the underarm, and gradually added about 2" on either side at the waist. </div><div>What that tells me is that I was overly generous with my additions - but I like to have room to fit and keep the amount of ease that looks right for the style and fabric. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the illustration from the magazine, I shortened the skirt by about 4 inches. This was a good pattern to choose as it's the pattern shaded in pink - super easy to trace. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185607849/in/dateposted/" title="Instruction page Burda mag orange dr"><img alt="Instruction page Burda mag orange dr" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185607849_bd88119d18_b.jpg" width="583" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Lastly I thought it needed a real belt. I had a good chat with Laura Mae at the last Bay Area Sewists meetup (our first in person in two years, a pattern swap) and we talked about how hard it is to find some sewing supplies that used to be basics. In this case I was rummaging in my stash for 1.25" wide belt backing, and didn't have any of that width. I have some narrow and wider, but I think 1.25" wide looks just right on dress so I guess I used up what I had. It doesn't seem to be available here in the bay area. I have a couple of old belt making kits so I guess I will hoard them and use with discretion. Perhaps it's available in NY? I should post a photo of what I mean, will do that in part 2 of this dress.</div><div><br /></div><div>Which meant I needed to get creative, so I found this belt in my closet which was a knock-off someone gave me ages ago, and it was just right for covering with the fabric. I made some eyelet buttonholes for the holes and then hand sewed the fabric over the existing belt.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52185607904/in/dateposted/" title="Belt making for orange Burda dress"><img alt="Belt making for orange Burda dress" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52185607904_1fb0548030_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I will say that the inside is not the most beautiful workmanship but it holds together and the price was right!</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52184336577/in/dateposted/" title="Belt on orange dress"><img alt="Belt on orange dress" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52184336577_a9c47b558f_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Up next some pictures of the finished dress and a start of another summer dress. </div><div><br /></div><div>Meanwhile I will continue on the never-ending garden project. Actually it has to finish this month as I applied for a rebate from the water district so there is a due date. You have to show your completed work. Sounds like school!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #660000;"><b>Happy Summer Sewing</b></span> and I hope everyone has a relaxing and safe holiday weekend. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: #783f04; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><i>Beth</i></span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>today's garden photo, this Spanish lavender which appeared in 2 places in my yard. A complete mystery as I did have a scraggly purple flowered one which is long gone. Sometimes volunteer plants are the good kind :) </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52020623610/in/dateposted/" title="white lavender 2022"><img alt="white lavender 2022" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52020623610_885d53210c_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-73676147803567586602022-05-29T20:14:00.002-07:002022-05-29T20:14:11.355-07:00Burda puff sleeve top 03-2022-110<p>Actual sewing is moving to the back burner these days as plenty of other things are calling for my attention. After another dry winter it was finally time to face facts and re-do my front and back garden to use less water. My house was built in 1950 and the time for mostly lawn has passed in California. So it has been a big project to get the lawns out, enlarge the planting beds with more drought tolerant plants, and shrink my water bill. I don't know if I should envy you in the more rainy states - those summer storms/floods etc seem very scary but our water shortage is getting that way too. Of course I will still have a lot of flowers and color - that's my ideal garden, continuous color, just like my wardrobe :) </p><p>As for recent sewing, I immediately wanted to try this pattern when I saw it in the Burda preview. </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52085845279/in/dateposted/" title="Puff sleeve blouse 1"><img alt="Puff sleeve blouse 1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52085845279_1a2437652a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Now that I've made it I do have a couple of ideas for modification, including not using polyester as I did here. The fabric is one that I got at a sewing swap, so the color was nice but it will be set aside for winter wear. I wore it the other night on a warm evening and it did not feel great. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52084545977/in/dateposted/" title="Puff sleeve top"><img alt="Puff sleeve top" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52084545977_4fae8f27b4_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the pattern drawing and image from the magazine. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52085823734/in/dateposted/" title="Burda puff sleeve blouse magazine"><img alt="Burda puff sleeve blouse magazine" height="428" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52085823734_7587d54d0d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think I might like it with a shorter sleeve, which wouldn't be a difficult change and would lighten it up a bit. I do like the shape of the armhole, it's the slightly cut-in armhole that's my favorite for sleeveless dresses and it was nice to find it in a sleeved top as well.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52085602738/in/dateposted/" title="Puff sleeve pattern piece"><img alt="Puff sleeve pattern piece" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52085602738_cbd9d6b4bc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's the pattern pieces for the outer sleeve (larger one) and the sleeve lining. The shape and drape of the puff sleeve is created by gathering it onto the smaller sleeve and then sewing that as one unit into the top. </div><div>Unfortunately when I finished it and put it on the inner sleeve was so tight as to be uncomfortable. I didn't feel like taking it all apart as this was kind of a test version of this top so I just cut some vertical slices in the lining to give it more room. If I make it again I will make the inner sleeve lining only about 10-15% smaller than the outer sleeve, that would be plenty to still have the support of the puff sleeve and gather the bottom edge. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52086078530/in/dateposted/" title="Puff sleeve inside"><img alt="Puff sleeve inside" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52086078530_0c1d24be99_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Now you can see my lining is made from scraps from my lining bin. Not exactly a matching fabric but it doesn't show at all. One less scrap in the bin! You can see how the inner sleeve lining allows the outer sleeve to blouse over the elastic edge. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52086078590/in/dateposted/" title="Puff lseeve back"><img alt="Puff lseeve back" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52086078590_6a1af03b2a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52032553453/in/dateposted/" title="57900F93-C15F-4D73-8E12-5583ED70A3E8_1_201_a"><img alt="57900F93-C15F-4D73-8E12-5583ED70A3E8_1_201_a" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52032553453_985be1212e_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>In the photo above I'm wearing my latest version of the Ash jeans, the black pair shown here in the top. The fabric is a stretch cotton sateen with a dot texture. The other pair is a denim I had in my stash, it's nicely lightweight which makes them my "summer jeans". I hardly ever wear jeans in the summer - it's shorts or skirts but having a lighter weight pair should be useful. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52090070795/in/dateposted/" title="Puff sleeve blouse 2"><img alt="Puff sleeve blouse 2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52090070795_c2e2aed9dc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Despite what appear to be quite a few pattern repeats, the recent couple of Burda magazines definitely have some nice summer dresses that I would like to sew. The repeats in the magazine don't bother me as I haven't been subscribing for very long but I can see that would be annoying if you already had many of them. I expect the pandemic has impacted production of the magazine as it has with the output of many pattern companies. However I'm glad they are all still putting out new patterns and wish I had more time to make them :)</div><div><br /></div><div>That's all for now - as I seem to say in every post I hope to do another one soon. If my garden project permits. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: #134f5c; font-size: large;"><i>Happy Sewing,</i></span></b></div><div><b><span style="color: #134f5c; font-size: large;"><i>Beth</i></span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>Here's today's garden photo, the pink jasmine all along the back fence has just about finished blooming, but when it is in full flower the perfume is fantastic. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52020621655/in/dateposted/" title="pink jasmine 2022"><img alt="pink jasmine 2022" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52020621655_86fde93be4_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-44231211176309562052022-04-14T10:27:00.003-07:002022-04-14T10:27:46.859-07:00Vintage Vogue blazer in purple/black wool<p>It has frequently occurred, since I began blogging my sewing, that I make something way too wintery just as spring arrives with full force here in N. California. The daffodils are just about finished, the volunteer sunflowers in my yard have shown up with their golden sunny blooms and I sewed this jacket that is more suitable for a chilly December. So I will post it here and then cram it in the recesses of my overflowing coat closet to hopefully be worn next fall. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51993113314/in/dateposted/" title="purple blazer on form"><img alt="purple blazer on form" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51993113314_dce3bf9159_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Note that black is so tricky to photograph so I have lightened all these pictures, both the indoor and outdoor ones so that the details can be seen. </div><div>I bought this piece of wool tweed at a guild sale, it had a tag on stating it was 2 yards and from Mood Fabrics. I do recall seeing it on their website and being almost tempted. So it was meant to be mine anyway:) As for the pattern, this is a winner and I am planning to make it again in a lightweight summer fabric. It's a Vogue pattern from the '80's, not sure of the exact date. Vogue 1193.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51993390340/in/dateposted/" title="Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope"><img alt="Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope" height="523" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51993390340_f26b0d5265_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>This is a case where the illustration would lead you to believe that it calls for giant shoulder pads but that was not the case at all. I think they just succumbed to the trend of the day when creating the pattern envelope art. It calls for 1/2" shoulder pads which is not much different from those in current patterns. I will say that this fabric is much more like a coating weight and probably not the best choice for a blazer jacket, the collar is a bit bulky and doesn't lay as flat as I would like. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992833876/in/dateposted/" title="purple blazer1"><img alt="purple blazer1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992833876_7387208001_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>When I was making it I rummaged around in my stash as I thought I had some remnants of black velveteen which would have been nice for the upper collar, both to reduce the thickness and also to diminish the itch factor. I didn't find it and so continued on with the regular fabric. Now that it's finished I realize I could have used a remnant of black wool crepe to achieve the same end. The collar is so thick that it bugs me and I think next fall I will take it apart and redo the collar, but that is a project for another day!</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992895633/in/dateposted/" title="blazer on form2"><img alt="blazer on form2" height="531" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992895633_99690cc030_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>or maybe not :) as look at how I have trimmed and graded all the seams. Probably not very fun to take apart. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992895523/in/dateposted/" title="pressing jacket"><img alt="pressing jacket" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992895523_8d1ef5217d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>This fabric was so thick and I thought the lapel would not lay flat so I used a method that I employ occasionally, which is to cut the interfacing on the lapel fold line. This allows the lapel to turn back at the spot where it needs to. You can see that my twill tape started out a bit too wide, I think I ordered it online and it turned out to be about 1/2" wide which is more than I wanted so I just trim it with a pinking shears. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51991836837/in/dateposted/" title="blazer roll line"><img alt="blazer roll line" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51991836837_f722710af1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Let's talk pockets. Ordinarily I'm not a fan of patch pockets, I just love a nice welt pocket but that was nearly impossible in this fabric and the pattern had the option of patch pockets. After I made the other vintage Vogue pattern last winter, (<a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2021/01/vintage-vogue-ysl-suit-epic-project.html" target="_blank">blog post here</a> on that one where I used traditional tailoring methods, pad stitching and all. That jacket got three blog posts if you want to read all the details.)</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992895483/in/dateposted/" title="purple jacket pocket"><img alt="purple jacket pocket" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992895483_7a7855f8ed_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's the patch pocket in progress. How much do I love these old Vogue single size patterns? A LOT! And I just noticed on the pattern piece that it shows the size listed as size 12 but below that it says Femmes-40 which must be the French size, and then Damen - 38 so that is the German size, which corresponds exactly to the size I sew in Burda patterns. Never noticed that before. </div><div>Anyway, this patch pocket is sewn around all the edges and then turned right side out, finishing it up with a little hand stitching at the bottom edge to enclose. </div><div>And then I hand stitched it to the jacket front, which was easy peasy in this fabric as the stitches would never show. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51993113349/in/dateposted/" title="tailors tacks in orange"><img alt="tailors tacks in orange" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51993113349_0e46705ecd_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I leave all my thread tailor's tacks in a garment until I get just about finished. It's one of those tasks I find enjoyable, plucking out the various thread markings. Although it never fails that when I go to photograph something I find a rogue thread still embedded in a seam somewhere. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51993384210/in/dateposted/" title="blazer back on form"><img alt="blazer back on form" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51993384210_245ab2b16c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I think this pattern had a center back vent at the hem but I omitted it because in this thick fabric it would probably not lay flat. Also I wanted to get the fit in the hip area just right. I'm thinking of making this again in a lightweight summer fabric for a much more casual version. </div><div>Let's take a minute to admire a feature that I very much appreciate in these older Vogue patterns, the collar roll line. And an under collar that is cut on the bias. What is up with some newer patterns, with the under collar cut on the fold, not bias. I do not like! </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992901033/in/dateposted/" title="pattern pieces Vogue 1193"><img alt="pattern pieces Vogue 1193" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992901033_b51fc61bd8_b.jpg" width="545" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992833801/in/dateposted/" title="purple blazer3"><img alt="purple blazer3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992833801_567ca03430_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Too much purple? I think maybe. I made this top a while ago from a remaining piece of hammered silk I had bought from Fashion Fabrics club and I'm not really liking it, and wish I had chosen a different pattern. Oh well. Next fall I will look for a fabric to make a shirt that goes with this jacket. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51992895498/in/dateposted/" title="Purple blazer lining"><img alt="Purple blazer lining" height="479" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51992895498_86cf0e5566_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>And yes, I did sew the lining in by hand, I just find it faster to do that rather than struggle with sewing it in by machine, I think it gives much more control. </div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on my unseasonably winter sewing. Actually we went from wearing shorts last week to turtlenecks this week as it got very chilly - that's March/April for you in the bay area. But I have a few tomato plants in pots and the dahlias are sprouting so spring is here. My back yard is looking very scruffy these days and starting next month it will get a big makeover. All the sprinklers and drip irrigation gave up last summer so it's time for a refresh. A water conserving refresh - with more planting beds and less lawn. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/52003434812/in/dateposted/" title="Vogue purple blazer"><img alt="Vogue purple blazer" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52003434812_ae5f696ec6_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div><i><span style="color: #351c75; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><b>Happy spring sewing,</b></span></i></div><div><i><span style="color: #351c75; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><b>Beth</b></span></i></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo, the big bag of Costco daffodils did not disappoint. You can see that if you buy over 100 daffodils you start to stuff them in the ground wherever you can. And they bloomed very well. Plus I read they repel gophers. A win! I think I will buy another bag next year and try to put them everywhere. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51940564708/in/dateposted/" title="B1355764-EE5F-4E99-BBB0-0F8DD15290E7_1_201_a"><img alt="B1355764-EE5F-4E99-BBB0-0F8DD15290E7_1_201_a" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51940564708_43e49915e7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-50576895082323493112022-03-24T18:38:00.007-07:002022-03-24T18:38:58.085-07:00Embroidered Ash jeans <p>Last year I taught a jeans sewing class online and during that class I sewed up another pair of my favorite jeans pattern, which is the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen patterns. Since I was doing a lot of videos I wanted to make a very traditional denim jean with the contrast topstitching, and I found a perfect piece of stretch denim in my stash. Well not quite perfect, as it was a piece that I got at a fabric swap with Bay Area Sewists a few years ago. It had some fading in faint lines but it was ideal for sewing a jeans example so I went ahead and used it, thinking I would just keep them for future reference in classes.</p><p><img alt="embroidered jeans 3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51959902750_429198a31a_b.jpg" width="640" /></p><p><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>But they came out really nicely, despite my annoyance at seeing the faint lines which turned out to be right across my thighs. In an effort to distract from that I decided to try some embroidery.This was one of those almost free projects as I got all the embroidery supplies at a sewing guild sale. In fact it was seeing an embroidery pattern that gave the idea. </p><a div=""><br /></a>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51952679504/in/dateposted/" title="embroidered jeans transfer pattern"><img alt="embroidered jeans transfer pattern" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51952679504_9a673cde01_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Actually I got 3 different transfer patterns that day, so I selected the motifs that went with the look I was trying to achieve. I've seen jeans with floral embroidery along the pant legs before and always thought they were nice, so it was in my mental file to do that one day. </div><div>Fortunately for my dark denim fabric these transfers are in a yellow chalk so they definitely showed up on the jeans. Another pattern I got that day has transfers that are black (or maybe dark blue) so they would work on a different fabric but not on denim. </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51950308732/in/dateposted/" title="embroidered jeans both sides"><img alt="embroidered jeans both sides" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51950308732_9f4a749e14_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I used the same pattern transfer for some of my flowers as the model is wearing on her top, the part shown that goes up by the shoulders. Some of the motifs were too large or designed to be in the center of a garment. </div><div><br /></div><div>I also got all the embroidery flosses, such gorgeous colors! although I did succumb to buying a few more one day. So many colors to choose from, now I want to embroider again. This might be the perfect project for me as I've always wanted to have one that I could carry around like people do with knitting but I will never learn to knit (too many previous attempts and I think it's too slow for me). </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51951600719/in/dateposted/" title="embroidered jeans front view"><img alt="embroidered jeans front view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51951600719_aa620ebc93_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>This is a better look at the fabric, you can see that fade line running across the thighs, unfortunately I placed that there both front and back. In some light it's not really noticeable and it other light it seems very prominent. So I will just have to learn to ignore it as I think these jeans are really cute for summer wear. At least until it gets very hot - the denim is quite heavy. </div><div><br /></div><div>Which made embroidering the legs a challenge. I do <b>not</b> recommend deciding after making pants to embroider! It would be so easy to do them before sewing up - embroidering long stiff tubes of fabric was really annoying. Live and learn. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51950312092/in/dateposted/" title="embroidered jeans side full view"><img alt="embroidered jeans side full view" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51950312092_6f46996fd1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at the inside of the jeans. I made these just as the pattern states, so the pockets are not attached at the center front. Usually when I make them I change the pocket to a continuous waist stay type of pocket that is seamed into the center front zipper <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/search?q=jeans" target="_blank">as they are in this pair.</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51950308242/in/dateposted/" title="embroidered jeans inside"><img alt="embroidered jeans inside" height="480" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51950308242_b41b0bc160_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I think this is the second piece of denim I've sewn up that had "sample" written on the inside in that yellow lettering. I think I got both pieces pre-covid at a Bay Area Sewists meetup fabric swap.</div><div><br /></div><div>So that's the latest on my embroidered jeans - I think they will be nice for spring but definitely too heavy to wear in summer. Actually I almost never wear jeans in summer unless I go through the tunnel to the foggy/cooler side of the bay!</div><div><br /></div><div>Up next - not sure, I have a few projects on the back burner right now and as of this afternoon I have finished the prom dress I was sewing for the daughter of a friend. It was an involved project due to the fabric but it is DONE. and I can move on to other things. Here's a tiny sneak peek. By the way I have documented a lot of the making of this dress in my Instagram stories and saved them to a highlight called Prom Dress. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51959934370/in/dateposted/" title="B461758D-D67A-443A-B282-1FA2C86D7447_1_201_a"><img alt="B461758D-D67A-443A-B282-1FA2C86D7447_1_201_a" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51959934370_3600cdb709_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>In fact that view of my backyard is scheduled to change in April, I'm having the lawn mostly removed. The planting areas will changed around in front and back, and generally moving to a much more water-wise garden. No choice here in California where we are in year 3 of drought and now it's called a mega-drought. Which sounds ominous. Anyway - more California native plants but still plenty of color. </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm continuing with online classes via Hello Stitch and next month I'm doing a spring dress class, </div><div>making both the Myosotis Dress from Deer and Doe, and also the McCalls 7969 (which is still available as a free digital pattern now on the Minerva.com website, not sure how long that will be the case). Register for the class on the <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-sew-a-spring-dress-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">Hello Stitch website. </a></div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Happy Spring Sewing,</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div><b><i><span style="color: #38761d; font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></i></b></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">today's garden photo, this cheerful daffodil.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51940564798/in/dateposted/" title="34F16013-5ED7-4FDC-BC0A-AB7326F9922B_1_201_a"><img alt="34F16013-5ED7-4FDC-BC0A-AB7326F9922B_1_201_a" height="400" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51940564798_31f6344d7b_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-81531214092788113862022-03-06T20:58:00.002-08:002022-03-06T20:58:07.324-08:00Quilted plaid jacket, part 2 Burda 09-2021-115<p> So much for my resolution to blog more frequently this year. But other parts of life have intervened and I just never found the time to sit down and write. Despite that I have sewn a lot and have plenty of things to post. Also I've worn this jacket so much already, so I'm really glad that I decided to try both a bit of quilting and used something from the stash. <a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2022/02/quilted-plaid-jacket-part-1-burda-09.html" target="_blank">Here is part one of this jacket,</a> where I wrote about the construction and pattern that I used. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51920615366/in/dateposted/" title="Plaid jacket1"><img alt="Plaid jacket1" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51920615366_3d9fb60725_b.jpg" width="616" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I could even see making it again in a summer weight fabric. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51919649687/in/dateposted/" title="pocket flap"><img alt="pocket flap" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51919649687_261354ab06_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I really like these pockets, and I did have enough of this remnant fabric to match them nicely. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51920615331/in/dateposted/" title="quilting closeup"><img alt="quilting closeup" height="566" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51920615331_94c708629c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>If you look closely you can see some of my quilting stitching. It does have a layer of quilt batting (also remnants) but because I used the plaid as my stitch guide the quilting doesn't show. Also the quilt batting is kind of thin but that means it's a bit cozier to wear but not bulky.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51920615566/in/dateposted/" title="plaid facing"><img alt="plaid facing" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51920615566_5dee5ba6b5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>One thing I'm kind of fanatical about when sewing plaids is the facing which has to match the plaid and again I did just have enough fabric to do so here. I think it looks nicer if they match especially when the neckline area of a coat or jacket is worn slightly open so that you see the facing. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858421553/in/dateposted/" title="quilt jacket adding lining"><img alt="quilt jacket adding lining" height="523" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858421553_beb9953544_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>My box of lining fabrics sometimes makes me think of Mary Poppins magical carpet bag, as I seems whenever I look in it I find just the right thing. So I had this bemberg rayon lining in the perfect color. I sewed the lining in by hand as I like to stitch the facings down first and then attach the lining. You can see a bit of the quilt batting and stitching lines there in the photo. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51919649902/in/dateposted/" title="plaid jacket 2"><img alt="plaid jacket 2" height="621" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51919649902_498109bc61_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Things are not looking good for our drought situation here in N. California, as you can see. Some of those plants have a bit of frost damage which is normal but we haven't had any appreciable rain in Feb. or March and I don't think we will. The spring project around here is to re-landscape the front of my house with all low-water plantings, and then in the back yard to reduce the lawn considerably and replace all the irrigation. So I hope it's all complete by the end of April and I can get back to trying to fit in more plants :) </div><div><br /></div><div>This weekend was a bittersweet one as it was the last days for <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com" target="_blank">Hello Stitch Studio</a> as a physical space. The opportunity to teach classes there came up at a perfect time in my life and I have enjoyed it more than I can say. I've made a lot of good friends because of that connection and I know they will continue but we will all miss sewing together. I guess the past 2 years of the pandemic has been a bit of a preview as the studio was mostly closed although it did reopen last fall with a lot of Covid protocols in place. Despite those restrictions we held many sessions of learn to sew garment classes. People did look around during the lockdown and decide that they could learn to make their clothes, so it was really rewarding. Their building was sold and that precipitated the closure, however some of the owners are continuing <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com" target="_blank">Hello Stitch Studio </a>as an online venture for now, and have some opportunities for a space nearby for in-person classes so I will likely be doing some of those once things settle out. I have several other opportunities to teach in-person classes so I will let you know when that is all decided. </div><div><br /></div><div>Meanwhile we are continuing the online classes, I start a new one this Tuesday evening, which is <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-sew-the-emerson-crop-pant" target="_blank">Sew the Emerson Pants </a> so if you are interested you can register at the link. </div><div><br /></div><div>That's the latest on my classes. In other projects I'm actually sewing a prom dress for the daughter of a friend of mine, reproducing the look from a picture she showed me. I will probably post some about this here after it's finished, but if you want to follow along I am doing posts in my Instagram stories, and saving them all to an Instagram highlight titled "Prom Dress". </div><div><br /></div><div>Stay well everyone and I hope for an end to the madness in Ukraine, it's tragic to watch things unfold but inspirational to see the bravery and fortitude of the Ukrainian people. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><i><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Beth</span></i></b></div><div><br /></div><div>This great photo was taken by my dear friend Halyna @zigzagstitching on IG, a proud and worried Ukrainian.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51923146228/in/dateposted/" title="Plaid jacket sidewalk"><img alt="Plaid jacket sidewalk" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51923146228_e7ba58b213_b.jpg" width="616" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-83044489785416802142022-02-06T17:46:00.001-08:002022-02-06T17:46:22.535-08:00Quilted plaid jacket, part 1 Burda 09-2021-115<p>This time of year I try to organize any fabrics that I have and in particular see what large remnants I can make use of. In my stash I had 1 yard piece of a blue plaid wool, not quite enough to make a jacket but I looked around for a coordinating fabric. I had a solid blue piece remaining from my tri-color coat so decided to use those and get two pieces out of a fabric bin. Here's a look at the finished jacket, which doesn't appear quilted at all. </p>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51864801283/in/dateposted/" title="Plaid jacket on form"><img alt="Plaid jacket on form" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51864801283_4bff70f328_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div>What made me think about doing a quilted jacket? At Hello Stitch one day I noticed a big pile of quilt batting remnants and asked about them. Turns out when they stitch a quilt on the longarm machine, and use yardage from their roll of batting, depending on the size and width of the quilt there can be quite large remnants of very nice batting in silk, wool or poly that are left over. So I took a good stack of these remnants just because they seemed useful but I didn't have an idea. Then while perusing my Burda magazines (for the millionth time - something I do when waiting for things like for the oven to heat up). I noticed this pattern for a quilted jacket and thought it would be easy to make and it doesn't take a large amount of fabric. </div><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51866788588/in/dateposted/" title="Burda quilted jacket magazine"><img alt="Burda quilted jacket magazine" height="421" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51866788588_bc7f210972_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So first I cut out the pattern pieces in the plaid wool fabric, then using the convenience of plaid I stitching them to the batting. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858339001/in/dateposted/" title="Quilting with batting"><img alt="Quilting with batting" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858339001_54b88eae24_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>The quilting doesn't really show at all and I played around with adding more quilt lines but it just made it look busy but not in a good way. So I have ended up with a nice and warm quilted jacket that doesn't really look quilted. </div><div>Once I had all the jacket body pieces quilted then I had to decide on the closure. I think on the pattern they call for snaps but that didn't seem like it would go for this fabric. I rummaged around in my button box for some coordinating buttons and decided to make bound buttonholes. With the wool plus thickness of batting I didn't think any of my buttonhole makers would succeed, at least in uniform stitching on that many buttonholes. For bound buttonholes I always start with a thread ladder, which sets out the location of the buttonholes in both vertical and horizontal placement. If you look at this picture below you can see some markings for my tests of other quilt lines, including some hand stitching which just looked too handcrafty to me. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858997850/in/dateposted/" title="bound buttonhole ladder"><img alt="bound buttonhole ladder" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858997850_4b4dc7f1f7_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Then I made the welts. I have never had any success with the one piece method, perhaps I will give it a try again but I just make the buttonholes like miniature pocket openings. One of the few times I use a rotary cutter!</div> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858421658/in/dateposted/" title="making bound buttonhole welt"><img alt="making bound buttonhole welt" height="581" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858421658_2ff1afb16d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858671954/in/dateposted/" title="making bound buttonhole welt1"><img alt="making bound buttonhole welt1" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858671954_6d3a970ae1_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>Maybe not even noticeable but I like to cut the buttonhole welts on the bias in plaids, it adds some visual contrast.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858997825/in/dateposted/" title="bound buttonhole pinned on"><img alt="bound buttonhole pinned on" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858997825_e082c479f5_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I mark the ends of the stitching with chalk so that the top and bottom welts of the buttonholes are exactly even. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858997785/in/dateposted/" title="bound buttonhole stitched on"><img alt="bound buttonhole stitched on" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858997785_28a6504a4d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>Once all the buttonholes are stitched, I cut them open and turn them, tucking in the edges to create the actual buttonhole. The folded edge starts out on the outer edge, but after stitching and then cutting open it flips to the center to create the edges where the button slips through. Once they are all pressed then I trim the edges on the inside, usually rounding the corners and trying to remove any bulk that will later be sandwiched between the jacket front and the front facing. </div><div>Next up was to make the pockets, which I really like on the jacket and I think make the look. It's kind of a barn jacket style. I might have to make this one again sometime...Anyway, I had not cut out the pockets initially, just reserved some fabric in order to do that. I had marked with tailor's tacks the pocket placement on the jacket front pieces. </div><div>So the way I cut out plaid patch pockets is to lay the pocket pattern piece on the jacket front and trace some of the plaid lines onto the paper. That way I can put it on the fabric and cut out exact plaid matches, in both vertical and horizontal color lines. Hopefully you can see my pencil lines on the pattern pieces here that note the plaid lines. I typically pick the most prominent lines, in this case it was the yellow stripes and matched those. I am super happy with the way these turned out! In the past I haven't really been a fan of patch pockets but this is the second wool jacket I've made with them (<a href="http://sunnygalstudio.blogspot.com/2021/03/vintage-vogue-suit-completed.html" target="_blank">first one here</a>) and I just cut out another one.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51857382192/in/dateposted/" title="Pocket plaid design"><img alt="Pocket plaid design" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51857382192_16e66220c5_b.jpg" width="640" /><br /></a><div><br /></div><div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858997665/in/dateposted/" title="making patch pocket"><img alt="making patch pocket" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858997665_4cd7b4f8c2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div><div><br /></div><div>I put weft interfacing on both the patch pocket and the pocket flap, it seemed to need some support and also to make it match the thickness of the jacket body. I had this lovely coordinating bemberg lining in my big box of lining fabrics. Sometimes I think that container is like Mary Poppins bag, every time I dip into it out comes just what I need - maybe that luck will continue if I believe in the magic :)</div><div>Time to discuss sleeves. With jackets/coats from Burda or Vogue patterns I don't think I ever add the gathering stitches on the sleeve cap. Is this shocking? I find them not needed and most times the sleeve fits in beautifully.</div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51857382102/in/dateposted/" title="quilt jacket ease sleeve"><img alt="quilt jacket ease sleeve" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51857382102_7686aea387_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /></div><div><div>Often I pin in the sleeves and then hand baste both in just to see if I like the placement, once in a while I will tilt the shoulder of the sleeve forward slightly, or move it in to make the shoulder less wide. </div><div>Then I will machine baste it in and check how they look. In this picture below the sleeve on the left is machine sewn in but the one on the right is still hand basted only, and you can see how well it fits in the armhole. Burda sleeves/armholes are really nice. </div></div><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858421693/in/dateposted/" title="bound buttonhole"><img alt="bound buttonhole" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858421693_bdc558c340_b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858997745/in/dateposted/" title="checking seam allowance on sleeve"><img alt="checking seam allowance on sleeve" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858997745_f393c5fedf_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I then do one row of machine basting, and after that check that the seam allowance is consistent all around the armhole. Sometimes it's easy to stitch wide or narrow, particularly at the underarm or at the upper back and if you stitch wider you are taking out width across the back and across the sleeve cap. So check those seam allowances. Then I do any adjustments needed and then give it a final stitch with regular stitch length, twice around at 5?8" and 1/2".</div><div>For the collar I used the solid blue on the inside, it's super soft and non-itchy which is what I like in collars. The pattern had a square corner on the collar and I rounded it off a bit, now I wish I had rounded it even more as it looks a bit pointy to me. Note for next time. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51858333796/in/dateposted/" title="quilt jacket collar point"><img alt="quilt jacket collar point" height="527" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51858333796_cbb88018a2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div>So that's some of the sewing details on this project, next post I will have the finished garment photos.</div><div>Meanwhile I'm in the midst of a jumpsuit class (online) and a few more in-person classes at Hello Stitch. Also I'm doing a lot of individual lessons either via Zoom or in person so if you want more info on that get in touch.</div><div>The other project on my to-do list is a complete revamp of the irrigation of my front and back garden areas. Drought plus aging pipes and sprinklers means it's time for a refresh, changing out some areas for low-water usage and getting rid of some lawn. We had ZERO rain for these last 4 weeks after a good soaking so we quickly went from drought is ending to drought is never-ending. Scary!</div><div>Meanwhile among my other projects I cut out a new project, using a vintage Vogue jacket pattern. So I will sew that up in a few minutes here or there and maybe finish that by the end of the month. Love using those vintage single size patterns - they are so easy to work with. </div><div><b><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Happy Sewing,</i></span></b></div><div><b><span style="color: #0b5394; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><i>Beth</i></span></b></div><div><br /></div><div>today's garden photo - what else but this year's first daffodil. So cheerful </div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51865837832/in/dateposted/" title="First daffodil 2022"><img alt="First daffodil 2022" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51865837832_d86b2aec38_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2193367862444945572.post-72563731278698469232022-01-24T22:43:00.001-08:002022-01-24T22:43:15.958-08:00Blanca Jumpsuit in Floral Corduroy<p>Sometimes I come across a piece of fabric and instantly know what I want to sew with it. There are several textile and sewing groups in my area that have periodic fundraising sales of fabrics, supplies and patterns where I've found some real gems. I snagged this piece of floral corduroy earlier this year and thought it would be great for another Blanca flight suit for my friend Halnya. It's rare to find a nice floral corduroy, it must be a few years old as it has no stretch and was 45" wide but the piece was around 4 yards so enough to fit the jumpsuit with a bit of pattern puzzling. I made this pattern last spring when I taught an online class and it's fun to put together. More details below but FYI I'm doing this class again starting Feb 1,<a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-sew-a-boiler-suit-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank"> here's the link</a>. </p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51842438180/in/dateposted/" title="jumpsuitblancacord3"><img alt="jumpsuitblancacord3" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51842438180_bf121b5214_b.jpg" width="536" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>She is a fashion risk taker so was very happy to wear this jumpsuit which I think has a 70's look about it. Here's a better look at this fabric. I think it actually looks better with a leather belt rather than the fabric belt. I really like corduroy and unlike other fabrics that I am fine with ordering online, for corduroy I want to feel it and see the weight and the color in person. Lately I've been looking for stretch corduroys in interesting colors, it's always on my list and if I see some I will buy for the stash. I guess it's out there but I find that the price seems too high for my liking. For some reason I would pay a fortune for a imported wool but I feel like corduroy should be in the $10-$15/yard range which is probably unrealistic. </div><div>Anyway - this was a bargain of a few dollars, and then I ordered a zipper from Wawak, their selection and shipping speed is amazing. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51841814913/in/dateposted/" title="Back pockets blanca"><img alt="Back pockets blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51841814913_b22f3d0ab2_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>If you note in this photo above I made a change to the sleeve design. On the pattern the long sleeve has a seam down the center and then no cuff, just a snap to make it smaller at the wrist. Which is feature that I didn't really care for so I extended the short sleeve pattern piece into a long sleeve and added a cuff with snaps. </div><div>For cuffs I just decide how wide I want them, how much overlap, measure the finished sleeve opening (where I added a small pleat) and then draw up the cuff piece right on the fabric. And then use that one to cut out the second.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51840761072/in/dateposted/" title="making cuff blanca"><img alt="making cuff blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51840761072_df1137af2c_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>For the opening into the cuff I just used the continuous bound placket and then let the underlap of the cuff be about one inch longer so that the cuff would overlap.</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51842064324/in/dateposted/" title="sewing on cuff blanca"><img alt="sewing on cuff blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51842064324_b13915eb04_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Since the zipper was metal I thought that snaps would look good on the cuffs instead of buttons so that gave me an opportunity to get out my snap tools. Which consist of a bunch of snap kits that I keep in an old metal cookie tin. So many sewing supplies in old metal cookie tins, right? Another one is full of buttons. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51840761177/in/dateposted/" title="applying snaps blanca"><img alt="applying snaps blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51840761177_94ac1ef81d_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><div><br /><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div>I've found that these Dritz snap kits actually work very well. The key to using these is to follow the diagram on the package exactly. Also not lose any of the little pieces! Now I just buy replacement snaps as I have the snap setting components that came in the kit. Also when I apply the snaps I put the rubber disc on a piece of wood and then the snap holder plus snaps/garment on that, and then hammer on that. The block of wood gives a firm surface to hammer onto and also kind of absorbs the hammer blow so the snap doesn't smash but locks into place. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here's a look at this pattern and the technical drawing.</div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51841700526/in/dateposted/" title="blanda jumpsuit cover art"><img alt="blanda jumpsuit cover art" height="475" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51841700526_2762ae92bb_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>When I first made this I was a bit cautious as I really don't like sewing bulky zippers but it came out fine. In my class I have some further details but here are a couple of tips for getting this zipper in just right. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51841700056/in/dateposted/" title="Zipper top Blanca"><img alt="Zipper top Blanca" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51841700056_e446dc8f56_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>When it comes to zippers I work from the top down, as this type of zipper is very visible on the garment and the opening is the most important. It has to be even at each side of the collar. I mark the stitch line where the collar will attach and then placed the top of the zipper in relation to that line. Then I pin the zipper down to the zipper stop. As it happened this zipper was a bit too long so I cut off the bottom, hand sewed a new zipper stop and then covered the bottom with lining. I did remove the teeth from the zipper tape below the new stop. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51842438025/in/dateposted/" title="basted zipper blanca"><img alt="basted zipper blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51842438025_0b61d1f55a_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>After fixing the bottom of the zipper I hand basted the whole thing and then it was ready to stitch in. I find it takes a few minutes to hand baste in something like a 22 inch zipper but the time is so well worth it as you can then sew it in by machine, with no pins and be sure that it's in just the right location, and centered. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51841814843/in/dateposted/" title="collar blanca"><img alt="collar blanca" height="427" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51841814843_95a37284bc_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>So that's a second go round with this pattern and I think another friend wants one so it may again be on my to-do list. Meanwhile I might also make up another Merchant and Miller Boiler Suit for Stacey as she wears her first one constantly. I made both of these pattern back in April when I did my online class for Jumpsuit/Boilersuit and that will start again in February, <a href="https://www.hellostitchstudio.com/events/online-sew-a-boiler-suit-with-beth-galvin" target="_blank">here's the listing on the Hello Stitch website. </a> I'm happy to say that Hello Stitch will continue as an online entity and continue to offer classes in sewing and quilting so I will be teaching more online classes this year. </div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51088024851/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_5724"><img alt="IMG_5724" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51088024851_9e6b599cb1_b.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>I'm turning into a jumpsuit fan, maybe I will even make one for myself!</div><div><br /></div><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/51842438235/in/dateposted/" title="jumpsuitblancacord2"><img alt="jumpsuitblancacord2" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51842438235_3ef25d39f1_b.jpg" width="518" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><div><br /></div><div>Up next, more completed things to post here, and on my calendar next weekend a trip to Britex with my friend Heather. I want a tweedy wool in tones of burgundy for a jacket, and she wants some camel color wool for a coat. That's the plan but who knows what we will come home with!</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><b><i>Happy winter sewing,</i></b></span></div><div><span style="color: #741b47; font-family: georgia; font-size: medium;"><b><i>Beth</i></b></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Today's garden photo, a flower from the mallow bush that I got a few years ago at the local community college horticultural department sale. The flowers are so pretty and this thing is incredibly hardy, I think it's about 6 ft x 6ft now and that's with a periodic chop. </div><div><br /></div>
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sunnygalstudio/50313749823/in/album-72157626446243924/" title="IMG_3920"><img alt="IMG_3920" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50313749823_d703181e61_b.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>Beth (SunnyGal Studio)http://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.com3