Style Arc Audrey Jacket,

Thank you for all the great comments on my coat refashion project. That blue boucle coat keeps on giving, as I used the remaining fabric for a portion of this new jacket. It is the Audrey jacket, from Australian pattern company Style Arc.

When I cut up my coat to make a skirt there was not quite enough to do the whole jacket so I rummaged in my fabric stash and found this wool plaid which was a complementary weight and color palette.  Here is the technical drawing and my little sketch of color ideas. I often do this when I am going to make something that has mixed fabrics, or deciding which way to have a plaid go. Despite my less than artistic efforts it is really helpful and fun to play around with my colored pencils. 

You can see that I originally thought about doing 2 solid colors but it seemed like more of a mish-mash than the plaid. Threads magazine had an article in the last issue about mixed materials and showed a few plaids so that was the inspiration. 

On the pattern the collar band was about one inch wider and that seemed too tall, so after it was all sewn together (practically finished) I cut open the top seam and shortened the band by one inch, and then sewed it by hand, which worked out fine. The collar is interfaced on both the wool plaid and the satin lining to give it some structure. My lovely incredibly matching blue buttons from the original coat reappear here on this little jacket, which called for just two buttons on the band, however I had a remaining buttonhole on my coat so it appears as the bottom right one, and then the left one is sewn on to match.

Here you can see that original vertical buttonhole - but I think the 4 buttons solves that problem nicely and becomes a design element. OK, that is my story and I am sticking to it. To complete this jacket front I had to piece a tiny section, which you can see here on the right, just at the shoulder seam. Instead of bothering me I actually quite like it - it is virtually unnoticable when worn but just a little reminder to me of enjoyment in figuring out this whole project. 

A look at the back and the inside with my typical two-tone lining. Whatever is in the lining box and matches gets used up. To get the length I wanted I had to piece the bottom as a band and take in about two inches at the center back seam so the jacket is not as wide as designed. I did cut out the front pieces on the existing fronts of the coat so no facing needed.

          
Someone mentioned that it might be a bit too matchy to wear this jacket with the skirt and I think that is right. Here is one option, I bought this jersey turtleneck which picks up the teal in the plaid. The pants are my test version of the Sewaholic Thurlow trousers and I am boo-hooing a little, as I made them from a denim tablecloth that someone gave me. As fabric goes it is a little lightweight for pants and has no stretch (oh how we [read me] have become accustomed to stretch) so I never intended to wear them. But they fit so well...I might just put them away for a pair of lightweight summertime pants. One of these days I plan to get some photos of these recent projects as worn.

Today I was outside surveying the blah-ness that is my November landscape and noticed that the leaves on the apple tree are doing their own color block thing with the branches yellowing from the bottom up, and the tips are still green. How have I never seen this before?  Very pretty and soon it will just be bare branches and lots of leaves to rake. 

Happy late November sewing, Beth

Coat Refashion: preserving the pockets

For at least a year I have been looking at a well-loved coat in my closet that I no longer wear, trying to decide if I should keep or donate. For some reason I couldn't part with it, the color is so nice and it seemed wrong to divest myself of a well-fitting coat.  A few interesting articles about waste in the garment industry and no-scrap cutting plus the push of a contest on Pattern Review gave me just the motivation needed to take scissors to this blue boucle.

So this swing coat became a skirt and one half of a jacket. A skirt with pre-made welt pockets!  If only all welt pockets were this way, ha ha, that would speed up construction considerably. Half a jacket because that was all I could squeeze out of the original coat, so I used some wool plaid in a complementary color I had, which I bought - where else - at an estate sale.  

This little jacket is a Style Arc pattern, the Audrey Jacket. The most recent issue of Threads magazine has an article about mixed materials so it was timely to use the plaid on the jacket although I am not sure it is entirely successful. The skirt is Simplicity 2152 which I previously made here. It is a great skirt pattern, quite easy to fit on the fly and I added a center front seam in order to cut it out from the coat.

Do you want details?  I think you do based on the great comments on my previous posts about the grey Vogue 1143 jacket, comments which I appreciate very much.  Often I see tutorials and think that the info is already available in sewing books but what I have come to realize is that blogs are like example problems in a math class.  You may know the drill but it is really helpful to see a technique applied in multiple ways.  Or am I overthinking it?  Let me know.  In any case, I took photos of this process so here you are, a look at the "vintage" inside and outside of this coat. 

The pattern (Burda - maybe one of the few Burdas I have ever made) had a stand collar and a clever and easy to make hidden buttonhole placket, one of those details I really like. Here you can see the lining, it used to be the matching blue but has faded to a streaky watercolor-ish lilac now.  

And that very re-usable welt pocket.  That was definitely going to make an appearance on the skirt and it was actually easier to incorporate it than to try and cut around it.  Here is the pattern envelope, which is long gone from my files but I found this image on the Vintage Patterns Wiki after searching on Etsy for Burda swing coat pattern. I am constantly amazed at what I find on Etsy with simple searches.  




I am crazy about this new skirt, perfect for winter but I am still on the fence about the jacket. As designed the collar is a bit high so I have not put in the buttonholes, still thinking about reducing the height of it. Also I don't really plan to wear them together, might be a bit too much.
Next post: some details on construction for the skirt and the jacket plus a better look at my lovely pre-made pockets :)  Can you tell how excited I was to reuse those pockets? 
Happy sewing, Beth