Pattern making, Tops for summer, and bonus shorts

This past week I've seen so many posts that touched me, and helped me better understand the daily struggle to just live a peaceful, safe and happy life as a black person in our society. Other people have expressed far better than I can the extent of racial injustice and the steps we can all take to move forward.
The fall election is a crucial step in solidifying change, police reform and racial justice. I will post more on this on my Instagram stories but just let me say that I am 100% committed to electing Democrats in the House, Senate, governorships, and the presidency. Being in a solidly blue state of California my votes don't necessarily have as much impact as I would like (although I appreciate the political climate here, it's not perfect but it's not some other places I could mention...Kentucky) Here are two organizations that I'm supporting:  swingleft.org and votesaveamerica.com  Contests in these swing states can be won and they are working to that end.

I'm looking forward to seeing the next posts from @blkmakersmatter on IG which will highlight black makers in the sewing community. Today's post highlighted a historic maker - really interesting and I love seeing fashion history from a new perspective.

As for sewing, I've been working on a few different things. Before I forget I must mention that the number of comments on my "how to use Burda magazine" post really surprised me. There is a lot of interest in using the magazine patterns and I'm glad the information was helpful. A few people asked about the next steps. i.e. adding seam allowances and fitting the pattern. Stay tuned - I just worked on that part of the process and took all the photos so I think that will be my next post.  Here's a sneak peek with more to come next week.



For June I was sewing with an eye to joining in the 2020 #FayesTopsThatPop Summer Sewalong and started on a couple of tops for that. Plus having cute tops is ever more important in the summer of Zoom and FaceTime, right? Reviving this sew along was the brainchild of Dressmaking Debacles, she wrote a post recalling Faye, who was a wonderful sewing blogger no longer with us. Understandably she's decided to postpone it for a while so we all have more time to sew some great tops.

My first top might seem a little underwhelming - but it's based on a ready to wear t-shirt that I have had for quite a few years and really like. I would say this one is more of a proof of concept, as I made the pattern from the existing top. I always use this pink top in my classes to show how to do it, but have never gone ahead and finished the pattern, so now seemed like a good time. Also it was around 100℉ here last week so sleeveless tops are necessary.





I made in in some rayon jersey remnant from my stash, perhaps a bit lighter in weight than the cotton knit of the original but it worked fine. It's not really visible but the top has an inset neckband and then a small gather at the center front.  Here's the original top.




Here are the pattern pieces for this simple top. I think in my next version I will take some width out of the keyhole opening as the new version doesn't lay as flat as I would like right there. I think this will be ideal for some embellishment or fabric mixing. In the original the neckband is in knit, and then embroidered. I really dislike doing decorative machine stitching but perhaps some beading would be pretty? lots of possibilities and it uses about 7/8 of a yard of knit fabric.



Next up, this one is a bit more interesting, and had a pattern feature I've never seen before.




Also I'm wearing the Megan Nielsen Flint pattern, which has two views, trousers or shorts. Mine are not really either, I wanted something like culottes but I'm not sure I've achieved it. They fit fine but I used some cotton sateen from the stash that is perhaps too stiff. I think in a softer fabric they would be just right.

Here's a look a the top. I ordered this pattern recently when scrolling through eBay. I had in mind to make the dress but now that I've made the top I've lost interest in that idea. However it might appear as a top again in a different fabric. This was a mystery polyester from the stash, another sort of test garment that is a nice color but yucky fabric. Not yet hemmed.



Here's how you get to that pleated neckline.



The pattern has the pleats which you sew up, then place the template for your neck size over it and trim away the center portion, resulting in a round neckline with the pleats going into the seam of the facing. Clever, I thought.



I had to do quite a bit of adjustment to get the armholes to fit right, they were way too high which almost never happens. I think in the right fabric it would be really pretty. What do you think? should I try it again in a nice silk?






Yeah, that shorts fabric is definitely not right. But they are super quick to sew!




So that's the sewing scoop for now. I hope everyone is well and getting out to enjoy some summer weather.

Take care and stay well, Beth

today's garden picture - well you can see the hydrangeas are going wild and I'm happy about that but this just delighted me when I was out walking last week. It seemed like it was posing for the camera. Since then I've seen a few in my yard but so far no Monarch butterflies yet despite planting plenty of milkweed. I think this is a Swallowtail butterfly?

Pattern Whisperer selects: interesting knit tops

Time for another Pattern Whisperer post, for this the category is interesting knit tops. Recently I had a request to recommend some knit tops and thought it was a good topic. Especially as I was working on a post for jackets but I wasn't really coming up with anything that really grabbed my attention.
Knit tops are such a rewarding item to sew, as they don't take up loads of time like a jacket or coat, usually can be sewn quite economically, and are forgiving in fit. Plus a knit top can work for so many wardrobe needs, from super casual to elegant to office wear. I even convinced myself to try one of these patterns and have already sewn up two versions since I first noticed the pattern!

Let's talk basics first.  Here are two knit top patterns from Vogue that really suit a variety of body types due to the built in pattern shaping.



The V1363 on the left is a Sandra Betzina pattern which shows out-of-print on their website today but I could swear it wasn't a few days ago when I was first looking at it. This pattern has bust darts which is great for fitting and I like the contrast neckline option. So a versatile basic that you can make in a variety of fabrics. The V8925 on the right has princess seams, which is the other option for getting a really nice fit and this pattern also has a contrast neckline option. So both patterns have a bit of design and change them up from the ordinary t-shirt style knit top.

If you are looking for something with a more cozy feel here is Vogue 8831. This has the draping neckline which is also seen on the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern (one that I like a lot but feel it has some issues with the armholes/sleeves which are a bit skimpy).  This pattern below has a raglan sleeve so really easy to sew, and more princess seams plus cup sizes.



Following here's the pattern I just sewed in two versions, V9205 - this might be one of my new go-to knit top patterns. I made the first version in a jersey and it is super comfy, I even used a stripe and it came out well. The second version I made in a very strange fabric I found at a ASG sale - sort of a vintage poly knit, like a ponte but with less stretch. So it is a bit less comfy but I love the colors. And a good choice for my St. Patricks day wear - blog post in March on that version.  While the darts are decorative they do create some shaping.



It seems like all these patterns I have chosen are suitable for color-block options including this one. Which is very simple but I think it could be lengthened to make a cute dress as well. Most of these patterns are also shown as tunic length as well as regular hip length tops which means they will provide the yardage for that option which is nice if you want the tunic style.





Another one that has quite a few variations in the pattern envelope is Butterick 6248. You know I love a pattern that has lots of variations in one pattern envelope - it appeals to my thrifty side plus you actually have more patterns with less storage. Pockets, interesting back view, cozy cowl neck. I don't think I would be comfortable a top with that long back but some people carry off this very well.



Here's one with interesting seaming, I really like the one with the stripes and solid black and grey fabric.


This one is not super interesting but if you like this draped neckline and want fit guidance then I think these Palmer and Pletsch patterns are quite clever. The adjustment lines are printed on the pattern pieces and they include instructions on full bust adjustments, swayback, sleeve etc. This one is McCalls 6963.



While this one doesn't have a lot of options in the pattern envelope it's kind of cute with the interesting asymmetrical front.





Moving on to other pattern companies - Style Arc has a LOT of really interesting knit tops. I haven't sewn a lot of them but I have friends that love these patterns. I am always tempted but haven't made any. Here are a few that caught my eye.












I really love this last one, if you sew this Madeleine Ponte top and with a pencil skirt in the same fabric it would be a super sharp work look that would give you the appearance of a dress with the versatility of separates.

For a more fitted type of knit top Lekala has some really interesting options. I have made this one in the past and it came out perfectly. Of all the things I have tried from Lekala the knits have been by far the best which is kind of interesting.  Here's the post to see my versions of this top.



Here's another one I like a lot - you can see that a lot of the knit tops I sew don't have round necklines, I am always chilly and the spot I feel it the most is the back of my neck. So I tend to choose these patterns that have a collar or turtleneck when sewing for myself. I downloaded this pattern but I can't remember if I sewed it. I'll have to search in the pattern drawer to find it.




As for other patterns - there is this Burda pattern I sewed in the fall and I really love it. Which is Burda 02-2013-126.

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I also like this McCalls 7046, post here.
My favorite plain raglan t-shirt, Burda 6990.
My absolute favorite New Look wrap front knit top, New Look 6150.
Another wrap front top, McCalls 6513, here and here plus other versions.

Another pattern company I want to mention is Jalie. They have lots of knit tops, and I think their patterns are the best value of all as they contain all sizes in one envelope. So a pattern for a knit top will have multiple view and contain sizes from small kids to adult. You have to trace the patterns but the paper is really thick and the printing is easy to trace. I have used their basic t-shirt as a starting point for a variety of knit tops.

For this Pattern Whisperer I looked briefly at Simplicity and New Look but I am so annoyed with their website that I am not even considering them right now. They have lots of products and a fairly comprehensive offering on their site but how hard would it be to add some better search features? I have emailed them a few times with no response and even commented on their Instagram. I am thinking of making that a daily thing - does anyone agree with me on this?  Or maybe they will just think I am crazy. Either way it gets it out of my system :)



Here's a sneak peek on that Vogue pattern with the radiating darts that I mentioned above.



As always I tend to stick to the big 4 or 5 pattern companies for my picks - since I find the limitations of indie patterns not as appealing (fewer options in the patterns, higher price, etc. although I know they are a good option in Europe and Australia.). But if you have any great patterns to recommend feel free to add them.

Up next more shirts completed. And even a how-to in the works on doing a one piece shirt placket plus changing darts to gathers. Tomorrow is a serious garden clean-up day - wow this rain is fantastic but the weeds are taking advantage of it too!

Happy Sewing
Beth

today's garden photo, this one was taken a few years ago but the exact same plant is blooming right now, by the front door. Camellias are so pretty but the blooms drop quickly and make a mess. But I just can't bring myself to change them out.





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Medley of knit tops

For months and months I had a Burda PDF pattern hanging on the wall of my sewing room. I bought and downloaded the pattern on a whim ages ago. I even taped it together and added the seam allowances, then set it aside. A while ago I was trying to figure out how to deal with PDF pattern pieces, particularly these that consist of taped together paper. Folding them up is just not a good option since they take up so much space and get all crumpled. The best storage for me is to hang them up somewhere so I generally punch a hole through the stack, tie a ribbon there and then just stick them on a hanger. One day I was looking at the big sliding closet doors and thought "usable space" so I stitched up a big fabric rectangle, mounted it on those 3M removable hooks and now I have a great space to keep PDF patterns our of the way and still available, plus no wrinkles or curled paper. Its basically a big fabric bulletin board.

Thus this space is festooned with a constant rotation of patterns, yet this one t-shirt pattern sat there, unused and fading into the background. Then one day I was looking for something else and actually noticed it. Interesting! So here it is.  This fabric is dreamy... I got it at Stone Mountain this past summer. They might still have it and I had to restrain myself from getting all the color options.  

Here is the info from the Burda website. The pattern is Burda 02/2013 # 126, here's the link to this short sleeve version, I took the photo from the long sleeve version as the model is wearing a jacket which obscures the cute sleeve detail.  Super cute, huh?  I love a t-shirt that has some interesting detail.




And you have seen me wearing this one - on my New York trip back in October.  At Eately, the great Italian food market and restaurants. I was thinking of them today as I spent the morning baking Panettone, theirs smelled delicious and I almost bought one when I was there.



Actually before I made the blue stripe version I made a quick test version - as I had bought this fabric also at Stone Mountain. They now have all kinds of bargains upstairs so $ 3 per yard, I bought a bunch just for knit experimentation. Consequently I will have an array of this color in my upcoming wardrobe 😉.



More random knit tops, I had this fabric which I bought in SF at Fabric Outlet (which is the actual store which operates Cali Fabrics). It is almost a tissue weight knit. Maybe not really suitable for my usual stuff as it is really thin and I prefer a bit more heft in knits. But I wanted to try out this pattern in a knit fabric. Not sure it is successful but I will wear it around the house.  This is New Look 6374, my previous version was in silk.



And then I still had more of this fabric so I tried out the Presto Popover top from Naughty Bobbin patterns (formerly Savage Coco) which was gifted to me a while back when I had the pleasure of meeting her in person. This is a good layering piece and I like a top to be really snug around the back of my neck (short hair - always chilled there) so I stitched the center front up as high as I could with still being able to pull it over my head. So now it has a bit of a keyhole effect and is a good layering piece under a fleece jacket or a sweater. As designed the sleeves were a bit long for my extra short arms but I like the effect so I just left them that way. Also after I saw this picture I decided to shorted the top a bit and I can't remember if I lengthened it when I cut it out.



Onward to the next one, which is this color block top/dress pattern from Burda. I had the burgundy color sweater knit leftover from this top. I bought this Burda pattern thinking I can use it for refashioning some old cashmere sweaters.





The pattern envelope - it does have potential. You can see I used only two colors instead of 3 as they show. Also I put a t-shirt style binding on the neckline, in the pattern envelope they have it as a faced neckline. The grey fabric is a knit I bought at Joanns, surprisingly nice. I actually like the fit better of a different Burda raglan t-shirt pattern that I have, which I have made a number of times. (here and here.



Don't let that hazy sunshine fool you - we are having rain, YAY!  and it is such a treat.
I had a small piece of fabric remaining, so I made a scrunchy turtleneck accessory which I can wear with this top - very handy.



And just one more knit, this one is a pattern mashup. The same knit fabric as the first one in a different color way. I think there is a pink also - I might need that. Anyway - the body of this top is McCalls 7046 which is a surprisingly well fitting t-shirt, with or without the side gathers. But I included it because it is kind of interesting. Although I have realized that this type of shirt needs to be close fitting around the waist/hips or it just looks sloppy. And then the cowl neckline is a slightly reduced version of the Sewaholic Renfrew neck grafted onto this McCalls top.



I did make another version of this frankenpattern last year from a very cosy knit and I wear it a lot.
Here's the previous version of this top, sewn about 1 year ago.  I love to do the stripe matching on these t-shirts. Hey everyone needs a hobby!



Ok that's the latest on knit top sewing, next up I might sew up a shirt from one fabrics I bought in NY.

Last year at the very end of winter I finished this Burda shawl collar jacket and posted one quick look at me wearing it - well I wanted to say that I wear this jacket ALL the time. It is so cosy and warm.



Plus this jacket has one of my favorite features, in the seam buttonholes. Something about that always appeals to me. In fact - my current project has that very feature. Stay tuned :)

Up next - the project that is in the works, and a crack at some of those fabrics from NY. And a good amount of holiday baking. As mentioned above, today I made my first panettone. Which was surprisingly good. A few more practice rounds and I think it will be great. If I do say so myself!

Happy holiday sewing,
Beth

and in the garden, my latest obsession. Succulents. Which are perfect for our climate and super interesting once you start to dive into all the info available. More to come of these.