Sunday, August 2, 2020

Patrones magazine review and a shirtdress from the July 2020 issue

There is a good possibility that I am becoming a bit of a pattern magazine addict. Since subscribing to Burda in the fall of 2017 my sewing has been about 70% Burda patterns. I just find them so appealing, full of styles that I want to sew. They definitely have some amazing coat and jacket patterns but also a great variety of tops, blouses, dresses - just about any idea I have I can find a similar pattern in the magazine. Once you have your correct size and ease figured out then the consistency is also a benefit.
When I wrote a couple of posts starting in early May on how I use Burda magazines (part 1 and part 2) a reader asked about Patrones Magazine, which is a Spanish pattern magazine. It was Sarah who mentioned that they had an App, which also had a free issue to download so you could check it out. Of course I immediately downloaded it on my iPad and found that it is very clever and easy to use - despite my Spanish skills being non-existent. Here's my impression of Patrones and the app, plus their patterns and instructions.

This is the first thing I sewed from a Patrones, it's from the July Issue # 411, pattern # 30. I wanted to sew up something that I really didn't need the instructions for, so a shirtdress was perfect for that. The pattern pieces were quite obvious - nothing tricky and it went together perfectly. Also I wanted to check out their sizing and get an idea of which size to choose, and the fit. More on that below.

Patrones blue dress 1



Patrones app page

There is the main screen of the app. Actually that might not be, as I purchased that issue so it is showing that July issue. On the main home screen it shows the various issues, and there is a video you can watch, at the top of this photo is the place to click for that video on how to use the app. Even though it is in Spanish it was really clear and helpful. Then if you click on each issue they have a preview, some of the previews just show the table of contents page (which does include all the garment photos but is not always ideal for judging a pattern) and then some previews also show the tech drawing page. So that is a bit hit or miss, however I did look at their Facebook page and it appears they do a preview of each issue there so that's a place to look if you want to see more detail.


Patrones image for shirt dress pattern

This is the dress I made, each issue appears to have 4 patterns that are inspired by or are knockoffs of designer items. They used a viscose crepe which is probably a better fabric, softer and more drapey. My blue dress is a lightweight cotton, which is ok and what I had around that seemed suitable but just a tiny bit too stiff.

Patrones blue shirtdress front and back

I wasn't sure about the sizing, I did some comparison to Burda and also read over their size page, and came up with size 40 in Patrones.  More on size below.  As far as I could tell this dress is not supposed to be fitted at the waist, as it pulls over the head with the buttons down the front. I can get it over my head and shoulders but not over the solid shoulders of my dress form, thus these pictures of it hanging here.

Let's get technical - here's what I figured out about using the app and the patterns. Before I go any further - I think this is a brilliant way to reduce paper, printing, storage etc. The instructions are available on the device, you download the pattern and then send to your printer, and they have a feature that I think is brilliant in terms of PDF's. I realize most PDF patterns don't make you print the instructions if you don't want them, but their PDF of the actual pattern pieces seems to be about 9-12 pages.  I think that's a big improvement over a standard 20 - 40 - 60 page PDF.

Here's the dress I made, # 30 Vestido Pepe Jeans (which I guess is inspired by this European brand, similar to Zara maybe?)

Patrones Instruction page

The instructions and layout are very similar to Burda or other pattern magazines so no trouble there.
I didn't use their cutting layout but I always glance at it so as to make sure I haven't omitted some pattern piece by mistake.


Here's how you get the actual pattern. Once you have opened the issue then you click on the symbol next to the pattern you want, and it asks if you want to open in an external application. On my iPad it opens it as a PDF document which I then email to myself so I can open on my laptop, and then print on my printer.  (as my printer is a pain in the you know what and only prints when it feels like it, and not wirelessly).


Patrones download links

One other thing I forgot to mention, on that photo above of the red paisley dress, if you are on that page of the magazine in the app, and you click on that small rounded arrow next to the small tech drawing, it jumps you right to this page with the download. Like I said, clever!

Ok, time to talk about sizing. Note above that this dress I've chosen is available in 3 sizes, 40-44-48.
So they don't include the pattern lines for the sizes in between and if you are size 42, for example, you just have to trace in between the lines of the size 40 and 44. This may sound confusing but it seemed pretty doable once I saw the PDF.

Patrones blue dress 4

In Burda I start with a size 38, and in American patterns such as Vogue or McCalls I start with a size 12.  All those patterns are around a bust measurement of 34" which means the neck, shoulders, chest will be a good fit for me.  I made a little chart to compare the sizes, and wanted to look at Burda 38 and 42, which are like US pattern size 12 and 16.
To find the comparable size in Patrones, I looked at the measurements not the size number. The size designation which is just a title, it could be A, B, C whatever and thinking that Burda size 40 and Patrones size 40 are the same will get you into trouble.
Patrones and Burda size comparison

So going by bust and hip measurement a Patrones size 40 has the same measurements as a Burda size 38. Similar situation for the Patrones 44 corresponding to a Burda 42. However, note the difference in the waist measurements with Patrones using a much smaller waist measure across all sizes. Noted! and I will adjust accordingly.  I didn't look at their patterns for the size 50 - 58 but I imagine it is comparable and you would need to compare measurements to find the appropriate size for you.
They also have some specific issues for plus/tall, for easy, and for party dresses. 

I forgot to mention, each issue is........drumroll please.....    $ 3.99 
That is a bargain for all those patterns, especially that they live in the app, you don't have to store or print unless you want then, they are available to look at whenever. They don't even take up much storage on your device, I think it just accesses it each time you click read as opposed to actually downloading the whole issue. 

And now to what I think is the best part of these downloadable patterns, the PDF for this dress was 9 pages. NINE!  Because the pattern pieces are overlaid, or nested or whatever you want to call it. So similar to a Burda tracing sheet but on the other hand so much easier to use. You do have to trace out the pattern, it's obviously not possible to cut it out since they are overlaid, also you do need to add seam allowances but I felt it was worth it to just tape together 9 pieces of printer paper. In fact the back skirt is not include as it was a rectangle, so they give the measurements for that piece (similar to how Burda would for the same idea).  As mentioned above, it is only 3 sizes and if you were interested in one of the sizes that fell between the ones printed you just draw/trace in between. It looks pretty easy to me. To make the dress I traced the smaller size (40) and graded to a larger size at the waist.

Patrones PDF pattern

Another thing to note is that it shows up in the PDF as colored pages, I chose to print in black/white lowest quality, again because why use my colored inks for a PDF that I will toss in the recycle bin  after tracing.

Here's how it looked on my computer screen. They have the page numbers, and that little measurement guide so you can verify it's printing at the right size. These patterns don't have a huge number of notches and markings, but the ones that are there are reasonable obvious. The collar and collar stand fit perfectly on the dress so I figured that was a good guide to how they worked.

Patrones PDF printout sample page


Here's the waist ease in this style. As mentioned, I can get it on fine although perhaps the waist was supposed to be a bit more loose, like the style of the Myosotis dress?

Patrones blue dress waist fit

Patrones blue dress 2

I thought this dress was a bit on the short side, and I lengthened it a couple of inches. It's still a bit short maybe? or I'm just no longer used to the full skirt look on me. But as the for the fit around the neck and shoulders, I'm pretty satisfied with starting at size 40 and will perhaps experiment with another pattern to check.

And now for a look at a few other pages in the magazine to give you a better idea of their offerings.
In this July issue I saw several things that I thought were really pretty - they do seem to choose nice fabrics and pair them well with the styles.

I have no need for a beachy maxi dress but these are both so pretty in different ways.

Patrones patterns examples


This pleated dress on the left intrigues me, the pattern pieces are very plain so I think the result is achieved by sewing lots of small tucks which release over the bust and then are belted. I will keep that in mind in case I see the perfect fabric. It would also make a nice top - maybe that's an idea. The yellow dress on the right is in size 50-54-58 and I think while simple it has a lot of style, very office chic if we ever go back to work dressing!



Patrones examples 2


Patrones is supposed to be noteworthy for their outerwear, coats and jackets although I didn't see anything particularly interesting yet. But these are spring and summer issues so I will wait to see what the fall issues bring. That white coat is quite nice, I don't care for the length with that floral dress but the tech drawing is appealing. I actually started out with the dress on the right, even using a plaid seersucker fabric and I think I chose the wrong size so it was a failed attempt, with a not so great fabric. Also that kind of asymmetrical front is not the best idea for trying to check fit so at that point I found the other shirtdress pattern.

Patrones magazine image1

And my all time favorite of the issues I've bought (which are 2 so far plus the free issue) is this jumpsuit. So cool! I plan to make this in denim just like the example. Or maybe lightweight corduroy? We'll see what fall fabric shopping brings.

Patrones jumpsuit pattern image


Patrones tech drawing page

There's the technical drawing page, they include several child's or baby patterns, and I think one issue had 2 knitting patterns for cute sweaters.

For $ 3.99 I think the whole thing is quite a bargain. My biggest problem with Patrones is not the language barrier  - I can sew pretty much anything without the instructions and the diagrams of the cutting layout help a lot to show you what is what. It's the fact that everything is in centimeters! I wish I could use centimeters automatically but my brain is stuck in inches and so I am constantly converting. Such a pain! Oh well, maybe with practice I will get more used to it.

Patrones blue dress 3

Time to dash. I can't believe it's August already - while some days seem endless (endlessly boring in this quasi lockdown limbo) the summer is also flying by. I just finished a jumpsuit from the recent Burda, it's so cute and easy I might make it again. What is happening to me - jumpsuit mania?

If you have any other questions about Patrones feel free to ask and I will try to answer. And if you are trying to brush up on your Spanish it might be a great way to do that.

As for my language study - I'm a longtime speaker and study-er of Italian, so lockdown time has led to watch all kinds of Italian language programming on Amazon prime, (and MHz service). I think my Italian swearing, which was adequate, has improved immensely watching all the different shows :) Not saying that will help me in polite conversation. The only drawback is that I actually watch the foreign language shows so I can see how things are translated in the subtitles, to improve my vocabulary. With any other English language movie or show I'm sewing while "watching" which means mostly listening and glancing up periodically to see the action.
How about you? what new stuff are you watching while sewing these days?

Arrivederci a tutti e buon cucito, Beth

Today's garden photo, the morning glories appear mid-summer climbing over the back fence and I'm always dazzled by the color.


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Saturday, July 25, 2020

Vintage DKNY dress, Vogue 1958 in cotton sateen

My love for the Vogue patterns by designer Donna Karan runs very deep, and I have a secret mission to sew up all of them. Which will never happen but I can pretend. However my late night eBay pattern browsing brought me to what can only be classified as my perfect DKNY pattern, and it landed in my shopping cart with not a moment's hesitation.
As soon as it arrived I wanted to stitch it up but alas, where does one wear a nice new dress these days? I was feeling a bit weighed down by our current societal situation, and slightly exasperated with sewing silly things I don't need, and then I decided - a red dress! There is something about a red dress that just cheers me up and the inspiration was right there on the pattern envelope. Not to mention that I had this red cotton sateen in my fabric stash for several years so it seemed a good time to use it.  So a red dress it was, and I love it but due to trying to outsmart myself it was a lengthy fitting journey to get here.  

Red sateen dress9



Of course I decided to make View B, shown on the pattern envelope on the right in black. My preference for that armhole cut is well know, but I did think the center front neckline looked a bit high. This pattern was a 3 size one, so it included sizes 12-14-16.

Vogue 1958 DKNY pattern red dress

I thought perhaps by using the size 16 lines at the neck I could then cut it down at the neckline so I cut out a bit of a mish-mash on the sizes and figured I could shape and adjust the upper part of the dress in the fabric. Which is what I did but it probably created way more work, and a lot of pin something, try on, take off, make small adjustment and repeat until I liked the result.

Here's the technical drawing for this pattern. which shows the seaming. The upper part of the bodice is continuous with the skirt front and then there is a waist inset, with a dart forming a pleat. I love patterns with interesting seaming and construction, to me they are so much more visually interesting and much more fun to sew.

Vogue 1958 DKNY pattern tech drawing


Red sateen vogue dress pattern piece front

I did some pin fitting of the upper part of the bodice and decided (1) to add a bit of length to the center front so the waist seam would land in the right spot. This shifted the angle of the front and added to the horizontal width of the front neckline, so (2) I pinched that out with tiny folds to retain the width of the neckline. (3) Since I was cutting out the size 16 at the shoulder I raised the underarm about 3/4". (which I often do on sleeveless dresses, it can always be removed later but I don't like when they land too low).  I used the size 16 on the side seams so I could adjust the side seam later, the markings of the pleats and dart are the same for all sizes so no change there. Also, to do this adjustment I cut off the upper part of the pattern, traced and adjusted it on tissue and then attached back to the bigger pattern piece. So just FYI - no need to trace an entire pattern. You bought it, you own it, cut it up and work with it, and if you are concerned with fit adjustments just trace the pattern pieces that will need adjustments.


Red sateen dress 2

All my outdoor photos are a bit out of focus, which is something I didn't notice until days later, but hopefully you can see the dress well enough.


Red sateen dress construction

There is a look at the dress front, you can see how the waist inset is attached to the bodice side front and then the dart is sewn in order to make the pleat.

More fitting reality. The trouble with taking an iPhone photo of the back view in the mirror is that you have to raise your arm to hold the phone and it distorts the garment :) although with a sleeveless dress it's not such a problem. I've included this picture as it included the shoulder seam pinned together (follow the green arrow). People often ask how to fit yourself, by yourself and my answer is "carefully" haha. For something like this it's almost impossible to pin the shoulders together as a seam, so I just overlap and then it's much easier to pin. Also you can pin both shoulders and often find the seam amount might be different so it's more of a custom fit. I also don't worry about the edges, if the inner neckline edge matches then I will just shave off extra at the outer edge.

Red sateen fitting back view


Red sateen front and back on form

Now that I'm looking at all these pictures I realize that this dress is kind of difficult to photograph. Also it looks quite wrinkly but that's cotton sateen, it's never going to be entirely smooth. This fabric is probably a bit too stiff for this pattern, looking at the envelope it seems their fabrics are more drapey, I think a crepe would be ideal. This red version was intended to be a wearable test but I like it enough to call it good for this pattern. So many other patterns calling my name right now.


Red sateen dress 4

I'm very happy with the fit across the upper back however I think the back waist seam is a tiny bit low. You can't tell in this photo but I think the pleats would hang better if it were shorter.

Here I've pinned up the center back with a horizontal tuck to show how that raises the waist seam. I usually do this on most patterns but looking at the pattern pieces it didn't seem necessary. Or perhaps I meant to do it when I attached the skirt but I forgot!

Red sateen back shortening example

And in what can only be described as a very sad oversight, this dress pattern did not have pockets. Which I am not obsessed with but in a dress with smooth side seams and plenty of room for them it seems like it would have been nice.

Red sateen dress pocket

I don't really use pockets in dresses much - what are you going to put in there? plus whatever you do put pulls too much. However for standing around and taking pictures then pockets are a must, right ???


Red sateen dress1



Red sateen dress on form front1

More fitting adjustments, I did sew up the front, back, finish the shoulder seams and neckline, and then sew the side seams last with adjustments and basting along the way. This view B is finished with bias binding on the neck and armhole, which is a bit of a surprise but I decided to go with it as it made the fitting easier. The view A has an all in one facing.

Red sateen dress 8

Did you take ballet when you were a kid? Looking at these photos I kind of laughed as I did ballet for years and had a built in advantage of having turned out feet before I even started! And obviously still do, have the turnout I mean :)

So that 's the scoop on this Vogue pattern, a while back on Instagram I asked if anyone could guess the copyright date, and the answers were varied. Which I think goes to show that styles are constantly repeating and good ones are timeless.  The answer is: © 1997, so this pattern is 23 years old. I wonder what other pattern gems are waiting for me?

Up next, more cotton sateen from the stash which I've turned into a strappy sundress, and a post on sewing things that didn't work out. Yes it happens! thankfully not often.

Soon I will have some class listings on the Hello Stitch website for virtual classes via Zoom that we will be offering. To start the first one will be more for beginners, so I will ask you to forward to your
"sewing curious" friends and push them to get started on this fantastic hobby/obsession.

Red sateen dress 6

Happy Summer Sewing,
Beth

Today's garden photo, I think this rose is Tropicana. No blooms right now, as all the roses get a bit tired in the heat but it will probably put out a few more blooms in the next month.  

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Sunday, July 19, 2020

Finale: Denim Peak Lapel Blazer and jeans

Now that I've finished my denim outfit there is nothing more I want to do than jump on a plane and go somewhere with a suitcase full of t-shirts and denim. Somewhere I could sightsee, meet up with far flung friends and spend time in some fantastic restaurants with no thoughts of a pandemic and all the accompanying troubles. But alas that is not to be, at least not for a while so I will stay put and dream. How about you? feeling the same I imagine, and trying to enjoy the summer while it's here.

This all means that my crazy denim pantsuit will have to wait for an outing, both because I'm not really going anywhere plus it's a bit too warm to wear this. A perfect early fall outfit so it will have to wait. Hmmm....waiting. That seems to be the watchword of the day now, every day. Do you think there will be a huge pent up demand to do everything, see everyone, and just relax? I kind of think there will be. Meanwhile I'm sewing and sharing here and dreaming of something better.

Denim suit front view with sunglasses

There it is, both pieces worn together and I think it needs the sneakers plus a pop of pink to tone down all that speckled denim. The shades seemed necessary as well.

Here's the jacket on the dress form. The main detail on this jacket is the peak lapel, which is the pointed lapel that almost meets the collar. I had wanted to sew one of this style for ages, and found on in the Feb. 2020 Burda.

Denim blazer on form with red sleeve lining

The sewing details are in my previous two posts, where you can see the jacket pattern and quite a bit about sewing the collar and the pockets.

Here's the first blog post with details on making a muslin to check out the pattern. 

Here's the second blog post with details on sewing the collar, lapels and pockets.


Denim blazer with mn jeans front view

Alternate view taken on a different day. I think the jacket is quite wearable on it's own with solid jeans, although I rarely wear white tee shirts. They always seem like a good idea in theory but I never reach for them as I prefer to wear something colorful 99% of the time.
The jeans are the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans, which I sewed back in February when I taught one my last classes prior to the shutdown. I miss you Hello Stitch !!!!!  By the way, we are gearing up to do some more virtual classes coming up in Aug. and September so perhaps I will see you then. Any interest in a virtual class of me constructing a blazer - perhaps as a sew-along? let me know.


Denim blazer with mn jeans back view

There you can see the contrast under collar. I am really happy with this pattern and I can't wait to make it in the fall in a solid color.


Denim jeans suit 1

The jeans pattern I used for the print ones are a self-made pattern. I copied a RTW pair of jeans about 3 years ago and use that one a lot, particularly for stretch denim, and as it turned out they are really similar in size and proportion to the Ash jeans that I make. On my self-made pattern the legs are a bit wonky but they suffice, and I keep meaning to perfect but have never gotten around to it.

Although looking at the back I don't really see a problem, perhaps they could be narrower at the knees and lower leg but if I want that effect then I'll just make the Megan Nielsen ones. Yeah, I am a high waisted jeans girl and was so happy when that fashion pendulum swung that way. I have a really long lower torso so any jeans that are low waist are not for me, not comfortable and way too low for
wearing.

Denim print jeans front and back


Denim blazer back on form

This denim came from Joann's last summer, I bought it with no plan in mind and thought I might make some kind of two piece outfit but nothing specific. It's a nice weight denim with a medium amount of stretch, perhaps 2% lycra?


Burda denim blazer lining view

I want to say that my mismatched patchwork lining is due to being in lockdown and no shopping but that would not be true, if you have seen other jackets I've made this is a standard feature of my sewing, such as this blazer.  I just can't deal with buying a matching lining for every project that results from my sewing whims, so I rummage through the lining box and see what pieces are large enough to cut out a lining. I usually make the body from one color and the sleeves from another.


Denim blazer peak lapel close up

Here's another look at that lovely lapel with a piece of white paper behind it one one side. The detail just disappears in this print so I must sew it again!

And a look at the inside of the jeans. I was happy to use this small remnant of a Hawaiian fabric - it complements nicely. And the inner waistband is in solid denim, a scrap from the jeans I'm wearing int the picture above. Because when I cut out this printed denim all that remained was shreds - not even enough for the inner waist. But using a solid works out well.

Print jeans inside view

Ok that's all for now. I have quite a few things I've sewn recently so you can expect a stream of blogging if I can sit myself down and concentrate :)

I hope everyone is well and making it through these strange times. I really cherish my friends and family here near me but also my far flung sewing friends, seeing what everyone is up to these days is definitely heartwarming, now more than ever.

A big thank you to everyone who comments or writes to me saying that you enjoy reading and seeing my sewing  - it means so much and I appreciate you all.

And now I have to run. Although somehow this picture makes me think of that song "Walk like an Egyptian". OK now I just watched the video, that is a time capsule!!  Every style comes around, when will that hair return? hopefully not in my lifetime :)

Denim suit side view



 
Happy Sewing and stay well,
Beth

Today's garden photo, here in N. California unless we go crazy with the watering the dahlias burst into color in late spring and then look a bit crispy come August - just the time when I see the east coast gardeners and their beautiful dahlia beds. This is my kind of dahlia - bold and colorful. 

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Sunday, July 12, 2020

Part 2: Denim Peak Lapel Blazer, Burda Feb 2020 #102

A nice surprise, who knew that quite a few of you are interested in this pattern, based on the comments and messages I've received. To review, this is from the February 2020 Burda Magazine, pattern # 102 . I notice that on the US website they seem to put up the patterns very quickly so you can purchase them individually for print at home PDF instantaneous gratification. Also I think I will start a pinterest board with my picks from each month's issue, so I can glance through that to recall my favs (instead of my usual method of leafing through each magazine until I find what I'm looking for).

Let's get to the most important feature of this jacket, that pointed lapel. Time to confess that I actually was quite concerned with how it would look. Sometimes turning a crisp corner is an elusive goal but whew! this turned out great. Very happy with that pointy edge. Also I'm kind of getting into doing  the old-school type of blog posts filled with sewing details and close up views. As long as we are stuck at home I will try to continue - it's nice to think about what I might do on autopilot but might be very interesting to people who are ready to try some of these techniques or garments.

Denim blazer under collar

Of course working with denim is a plus in this case, it does press well and is not quite a thick as perhaps a wool might be. Although I have definite plans to make this pattern again in the fall in a wool. You know me, once I get a jacket pattern I like I will repeat in a different fabric for a new look.

So how to get that crisp corner?  Planning and preparation, leaving nothing to chance. First up, I had marked the roll line and the dart with the wax tracing paper. Note that this pattern has the lapel roll line marked on the pattern piece, can I say hurrah! I get so annoyed with a lot of modern patterns that don't include this detail. The line is indicated, so I stitched some cotton stay tape along the line, tightening it up ever so slightly. To do that I place it, mark the ends and then shift the bottom about 1/4" and then distribute that ease along the whole length. You can see my little red pencil marks at the bottom where I've shifted it. The top red mark intersects with the 5/8" stitch line.

Denim jacket front tape lapel

Next, in order to incorporate that skinny dart that hides below the lapel, first the under collar and the collar stand need to be stitched together. I find it such a time saver to draw my stitch lines in, then I can match the intersection points for the seam lines and everything goes together perfectly. That is the beauty of having interfacing on it - you can draw with pencil right on it and it will never be seen. Another thing to note is that I always mark the center of each pattern piece and use those as an extra little match position, I do this on everything. Dresses, shirts, jackets, tops. If it has a center I mark it.
It makes pinning on facings or collars that much easier.  You can see I don't mark the entire stitch line, just the edges where there are corners or pivots.

Denim jacket upper and under collar


Here's how the collar and jacket body match up. The  intersection marked at the lower corner of the collar stand matches up to the two dots on the dart which are brought together. On looking at this photo I though they were sewn continuously but in fact not, below this is the dart pinned together.

Denim blazer attaching collar1


Denim blazer attaching collar 2

So the collar is sewn on, then the dart is sewn up. Lastly the remaining edge of the collar is attached.
The image on the left is a bit of repeat, but it's interesting to see it side by side with the collar and lapel completely stitched. And you can see that all my stitch lines are penciled on which makes sewing it so much easier. I do shorten the stitch length quite a bit for that peak lapel which makes it easier to turn that small sharp corner.

Denim Jacket lapel sewing composite

Once it is all sewn then the trimming commences. The ONLY way to get a nice crisp lapel is to seriously trim the seam allowances and press. Looking through my photos I didn't take pictures at that stage but you can look at this previous blog post and see some good details on this step.

Here's one more thing I took a few photos of, and it's actually a step that precedes the collar. Before the collar you much stitch the front and back together at the shoulder seams. There is a bit of ease built in to that seam with the back being larger than the front. I find in my classes that this always stumps people and they want to trim it off, but no! it's there on purpose to give extra room and shaping across the back.

My photo cut off the outer edge but they are lined up (where the armhole is) so that means there is a scant 1/4" of differential at the inner neck. They need to be matched up there - at the stitching line as indicated in this photo. Which makes the back longer but that is eased to match the front.

Denim jacket shoulder seam match
I find the easiest way to match is to bend the sides toward the front, it makes them marry up well and then I pin to distribute the ease. Jacket patterns usually tell you to add some stay tape on this seam but I like to use the selvedge of bemberg or silk as it is quite stable but adds no bulk, plus presses perfectly. So save your selvedges to use for ultra thin stay tape. The photo on the right shows it stitched and the jacket back curve which will match the body and shoulder area.

Denim jacket shoulder stay

For the under collar I used a scrap of some solid denim from my stash, it added some visual interest to the jacket and as I was also cutting out jeans from this print denim I was really short on fabric. In fact I think I would have had to piece the under collar with a seam had I not used the contrast fabric.


Denim blazer contrast undercollar

That's how the finished collar plus dart looks, this is before pressing. But it is a nicely designed pattern and that dart points right into the seam of the collar stand.

Just as a reminder, here is the drawing for this pattern. My previous post is about doing the muslin and checking the fit before I started sewing.


Burda Feb 2020 blazer 102 drawing

Another sneak peek and getting ahead of myself, this is what lockdown lining looks like.
Who am I kidding? I can't attribute that to staying in and not shopping - that is my standard modus operandi for linings. Raid the lining bin and come up with something that is reasonably coordinating. More than one color, sure. A print, almost never! Anyway I had an idea of rolling up the sleeves on this jacket which called for a nice scarlett lining.

Denim jacket sewing in lining


Last look at my finished collar and lapel. I put a piece of printer paper under it so that it could be seen. I do love this wacky fabric but the details disappear.


Denim blazer peak lapel close up

Next up, I will show you the finished jacket and then put it away until probably late September - it's far too hot for jacket wearing around here now.

In other sewing, I've finished a dress from a DKNY pattern that I was a bit lukewarm on while sewing, despite loving the pattern and the style, the I finished it, put it on and I love it! Thankfully I have way more sewing successes than fails, but I do have a couple of fails to show you as well. Mostly due to choosing pattern styles that I just don't think suit me at all. Next up I'm sewing a sundress as it is definitely sundress weather around here, and a jumpsuit.

This morning I helped my mom make plum jam, and we had to laugh as it never fails that the jam making day is over 100℉. Very hot work! Of course around here the plums are ripe in July so of course it will be in the 100's. Anyway - I always have more respect for those pioneer women who did all these things in long dresses, wood stoves and of course no air conditioning!

Happy Summer Sewing,  Beth

Today's garden photo, this gorgeous gardenia. Every year I get worried about the gardenias which have probably been here maybe a few decades? I don't like to prune them because I don't want to lose even one of these fragrant blooms. They are putting on a show right now and the fragrance is beautiful.

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