Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138 completed

This is another of my posts where I feel it should have a subtitle. And the subtitle should be be "Try, Try, Tricolor coat".  Ok slightly pathetic excuse for a pun but this is a coat where I had completely finished it, then gone back and made a fit adjustment, not once but twice! So that makes three times I said "all done" and I am now fairly satisfied with it.
Pictures first and then a bit of explanation and some construction info.


coata5final

I love that jade green color and the quality of the fabric is so nice. My previous post is about the starting the coat, where I got the fabrics (the green one was a lovely gift) and some notes on fabric preparation, interfacing, etc.  I might do another post on more of the sewing details, and some tips on interfacing as it pertains to coats.

I have not tried to recreate the style of the pattern photo shoot before but often have been tempted so my photographer was willing to give it a try. Leave it to Burda to add one element (that chunky scarf) to obscure the garment's details.
Tricolor coat side by side view
So where do the three revisions come in?  I really had the coat completely finished, and placed on the dress form in my sewing room but I just couldn't stop looking at the width of the shoulders. It seemed too big for the dress form, so I would put it on and take it off trying to decide. Also once I had it sewn up but before the lining, it seemed to need shoulder pads even though the pattern did not call for them. So I put them in, and then finished the lining. That is when it started to look too big. Pattern notes: I made a Burda size 40 which is what I used for the Burda heather purple shawl collar wool coat but I am wondering if the thickness of that fabric took up some of the room and thus it was not too big. I think this tricolor coat in size 40 turned out too big. And then I studied the Burda measurements and realized a Vogue size 12 which I usually start with probably corresponds better to a Burda 38. So my eyes were not playing tricks on me, it was too big.

Here is the back view so you maybe see what I am talking about. I have only one other issue with the pattern, where the back upper yoke attaches to the panels, it seems a bit too big there, or it could be something I did but I made it work.

tricolor coat back view1

So I decided to narrow the shoulders. Meaning I had to detach the upper portion of the lining. Which I always sew in by hand so it wasn't that bad to do.

I moved the top of the sleeves in by about 5/8". First by unpicking them, from about 4 inched down from the center top going toward the front and back. Then I shifted them inward, making the shoulder seam shorter. BASTED in place. Tried on, did some little adjustments here and there. Then machine basted. Tried on again just to make sure everything was right. Measured the length of each shoulder seam to make sure they were even. Then stitched them up on the machine. Re-attached the sleeve heads. Tossed away the shoulder pads (yay!). Re-attached the lining. And satisfaction :)



sleeve fixing

Here is a look at the collar and the closure, which are large hooks. I thought they would bug me but they seem fine. The most important thing (Ok one of the important things) was to sew them perfectly so the color blocking would line up just right down the center front.

tricolor coat front upper

And the side view. Here is where need for the second adjustment became apparent. Darn that Burda size 40. The sleeves were too wide, particularly in the bicep. So once again but in a different place, I unpicked the lining sleeve hem (also sewn by hand, so not difficult to undo). and then pulled the sleeve through the bottom opening (I do not bag the lining so the hem lining is not attached to the coat hem - just never have done it that way - and makes adjustments a lot easier). I narrowed the whole sleeve by 1 inch total (taking a half in seam tapering to nothing where it attached to the armhole). And I liked it soooo much better. Perfect. and a live and learn moment to compare things to other garments that fit well (which I always tell people to do but should have done in this instance myself).

Sleeve adjustment

A few details on the facing/lining. The pattern had a one piece facing down the front, I think the instructions said to use the same color as the sections in green, but that just bugged me. I thought the facing should continue the color blocking so I had to make it that way. Easy enough to use the pattern pieces from the color blocking to make facings. Also the pattern front facing was about 2 inches wide which seemed awfully skimpy so I made it similar to the front section. Easier to show than tell so here it is.

tricolor coat facing color blocktricolor coat hooks1

Just for fun  - continuity - I did a bit of color blocking on the bottom of the lining so you can see the bottom band is black to continue that bottom panel.

Looking through my Flickr album I do have more construction pics so I will do another post on some more sewing details, plus this outfit is not complete - one more piece from this Burda pattern collection.

Summary: this pattern is one I kept going back to since I first noticed it, maybe 2 years ago? Once I had the green coating fabric it all came together and I am really happy with it. The colors are my favorites and I think it looks great with jeans or more dressy outfits. Now I am 99% satisfied with the fit and will know for next time to start with a smaller size and go from there.  By the way, I took these photos after narrowing the shoulders but before narrowing the sleeves, so you can see they look a bit wide. When I take pics of the second item I will show the better sleeve fit.

I am entering this in the Color-Blocking contest on Pattern Review so you might see it there :).

Thanks for all the great comments on my previous post about coat patterns - as I said, the Pattern Whisperer is all for fun and a good way to discuss a particular category of patterns, and to look for features that make them easy to sew and/or fit.

Up next, I have some dresses I sewed for my friend Heather to post and then I think I will settle down with some easy-peasy knit tops.

Happy sewing,
Beth


CoatA10

41 comments:

  1. It's beautiful! The colours really highlight the pretty seam-lines!

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  2. What a gorgeous coat! The combination of colors is stunning.

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  3. What a pain to have to go back and fix twice, but worth it. Beautiful coat.

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  4. What a beautiful coat! That color combination... gorgeous!

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  5. I love it! You're so lucky to have found three different wool colours that go so well together. Excellent couture thinking on the colour blocking of the facing. Clever you!

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  6. Wonderful Beth, you sew so beautifully.

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  7. It's such a beautiful coat. Your attention to detail is amazing!

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  8. I've always loved this coat (that issue of Burda was stellar - so many great patterns!). I'm glad to see one sewn up, you're looks so elegant and well sewn. Thanks for your breakdown about narrowing the shoulders. I did something similar to you with a Burda coat - sewed a 40 when I should have sewed a 38 AND was sloppy (it was my first coat in my defense) about setting in the sleeves. I need to go back and do the same fix you mention here.

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  9. Wow Beth this looks so stylish. The colours are fab! definitely a winner in my book.

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  10. Love all the thought and work that has gone into this coat. The facing and lining color blocking...genius as we don't always have the coat closed and can show off our skills even on the inside. The colors suit you and the alterations really made it all work and fit you so well. Thank you for sharing it with us, Beth!

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  11. Beautiful, beautiful coat Beth! The color combinations are gorgeous, and you are so clever to color block the lining too! :)

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  12. OMG, this is beautiful! You did a fabulous job!

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  13. Ooh, this is so nice! Love the inside color blocking. That's not something you'd ever see on RTW.

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  14. That coat is drool worthy! It's fantastic and beautifully constructed.

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  15. Drool worth is right! This is stunning. You look fabulous in it and all around this is a striking, attention getting coat. My only question, since you live in a warmer climate than I do, (though you'd never know it this month and last) The fronts just meeting wouldn't work well in a colder climate. Would a placket placed behind the opening work?
    I love that you color blocked the facing to match. Outstanding!

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  16. It's glorious! The color-blocked lining is rad. :)

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  17. Your coat turned out fantastic! You must feel very proud! :-)

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  18. Fabulous! The colors play together very well indeed! And I love that you also did some blocking in the lining. jenmiller

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  19. Wow! This turned out great. Love the color blocking.

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  20. Beth you coat is beautiful..... Excellent work

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  21. Wow!! This coat suits you so well that it was definitely worth all the work!!

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  22. This looks perfect on you. Well done.

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  23. Absolutely beautiful job. I'm so impressed that you took the time to make those alterations--they were a lot of work, and they paid off. Bravo!

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  24. Beautiful work Beth! You can't purchase RTW with this great a look and fit!

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  25. Such a beautiful coat. Colour blocking at it's absolute best.

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  26. Beth, Your coat is some kind of beautiful. Lovely and excellent craftsmanship.

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  27. Wow Beth, these are the best photos of you ever! I love the cool street style and movement seams to make clothes look better! Oh, and the coat is lovely, of course. Long time follower, first time commenter.

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  28. Gorgeous! Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous. I love the colours you chose. So much more practical than a white winter coat!

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  29. It turned out perfect! So fun that we got to see a sneak peek earlier :)

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  30. What a lovely coat, Beth. And you really hung in there with the modifications. Bottom line, you have a unique coat that is just stunning. Very nice work, as usual.

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  31. Beautiful work Beth! I really love the colour combination you chose too. Very striking :)

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  32. The colors you chose are absolutely beautiful! I'm a big fan of Burda, too. I think I'm going to have to renew my subscription this year after canceling it the last two. I'd love to read more about the construction of your coat. I have a vogue coat pattern (9071) I'd like to make over my Christmas break and it's definitley going to be a challenge for my skill set. And thanks for the comment on my blog!

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  33. What a fun coat. Love the colors!

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  34. Stunning coat and I love seeing your attention to the finer details.

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  35. I love it, gorgeous coat in some really gorgeous colours.

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  36. I don't know how I missed this post but that coat is really cute and I love the colors.

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  37. This is so beautiful! I love the color palette that you chose. Very inspiring!

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