Saturday, July 2, 2022

With Ruffles: Part 1 Fitting - BurdaStyle 05/2022 # 102

So much for my resolution to blog more this year, but now that summer is here and I have some free time I hope to get back to it. I've been busy teaching classes at a couple of local quilt shops that wanted to expand into garment classes. But my big project has been necessitated by the climate - we are in our third year of extreme drought, and prior to that in the last ten years we have only had a couple with plenty of rain. It looks like this is state of things now and all our water districts in N. California are urging people to change their landscaping to use less water. I was happy to do it and lessen my water bill, plus all the irrigation fixtures were at the point of needing replacement. Here's a little look at the work in progress. 


Working with the existing footprint I have changed out the lawn for a drought tolerant groundcover, and then put in a bunch of low water use plants in the back. The front is still a work in progress but that will be more hardscape, with succulents and salvias.  This picture was taken at the end of May so as of today the hydrangeas are fully covered in blooms and it looks so nice. 

Back to sewing - along with many other subscribers had noticed the number of repeat patterns in the recent Burda magazines. It doesn't bother me as I generally find at least one (sometimes up to 5) patterns per issue to sew and I don't have a big backlog of magazines. I expect that with the pandemic their output is reduced and I am just happy that the magazine keeps arriving every month. 

When I saw the preview of the May issue I was interested in the dress on the cover so that was what I traced right away.

Burda mag cover05-2022

I had the perfect fabric in my stash, a rayon woven that I ordered last summer? from Fabric Mart. Here's a sneak peek of the finished dress. This is part one of this dress and I will follow up with finished photos.

Orange dress collar

As I was making it I really debated on whether or not to add the ruffles but without it that would just be a very basic shirtdress. And the one on the cover of the magazine is so cute!

Here's the technical drawing for this dress. It has a slightly cut in shoulder (my fav) but also a low armhole (not my fave). The skirt is both pleated and then gathered, which works nicely in a very lightweight fabric like woven rayon but wouldn't be suitable for anything thicker. 

Orange dress tech drawing
Time to talk about fit. I know it might actually take more time, be more work but I like to adjust the pattern and perhaps add a bit extra, and then take away when I sew the side seams or attach the skirt. 

Here are the front and back bodice pieces, which I have traced at size 38, my usual Burda starting size. That is similar to a size 12 in Vogue/McCalls/Simplicity.

Noted on the image are the adjustments that I did to the original size 38 pattern pieces. 

Pattern Adj on paper orange dress

- lengthen at Center back 1/2"
- add length center front 2"  note I make the addition of length match up at the side seams
- lower dart 1/2"
- raise underarm about 1.5"
- added to the shoulder seam length about 1/2" outer edge so not quite so narrow.
- add on side seams, about 1" at top and closer to 2" at waist. This will be too much but I like to fit on my body.

Once I had cut out and sewed up the placket/ruffle on the front bodice, and then sewed the shoulder seams, attached the collar, it was ready to fit on me. Actually I do use a dress form which I have "sculpted" that matches my measurements fairly closely for the initial pinning. If you click over to this post for my red coat and scroll down you will see the coat pattern piece pinned to the dress from, which is wearing a color blocked dress I made ages ago. That dress has a great fit, a defined waist and thus is ideal for keeping on the dress form to use as a comparison. 

Once I had tried it on and done a little basting of seams I came up with a fit that I liked. It's difficult to show those adjustments but I think this photo below illustrates it. The pink dotted line is about where I ended up sewing the dress bodice. 

Pattern Adj final on paper orange dress

So I kept the armholes raised. Moved the armhole edge a bit closer to pattern original at top of shoulder. Used only about 1/4" of the added back length, and only 1" of the added center front length, tapering to match the back at the side seam. Used the original side seam at the underarm, and gradually added about 2" on either side at the waist. 
What that tells me is that I was overly generous with my additions - but I like to have room to fit and keep the amount of ease that looks right for the style and fabric. 

Here's the illustration from the magazine, I shortened the skirt by about 4 inches. This was a good pattern to choose as it's the pattern shaded in pink - super easy to trace. 

Instruction page Burda mag orange dr

Lastly I thought it needed a real belt. I had a good chat with Laura Mae at the last Bay Area Sewists meetup (our first in person in two years, a pattern swap) and we talked about how hard it is to find some sewing supplies that used to be basics. In this case I was rummaging in my stash for 1.25" wide belt backing, and didn't have any of that width. I have some narrow and wider, but I think 1.25" wide looks just right on dress so I guess I used up what I had. It doesn't seem to be available here in the bay area. I have a couple of old belt making kits so I guess I will hoard them and use with discretion. Perhaps it's available in NY? I should post a photo of what I mean, will do that in part 2 of this dress.

Which meant I needed to get creative, so I found this belt in my closet which was a knock-off someone gave me ages ago, and it was just right for covering with the fabric. I made some eyelet buttonholes for the holes and then hand sewed the fabric over the existing belt.

Belt making for orange Burda dress

I will say that the inside is not the most beautiful workmanship but it holds together and the price was right!

Belt on orange dress

Up next some pictures of the finished dress and a start of another summer dress. 

Meanwhile I will continue on the never-ending garden project. Actually it has to finish this month as I applied for a rebate from the water district so there is a due date. You have to show your completed work. Sounds like school!

Happy Summer Sewing and I hope everyone has a relaxing and safe holiday weekend. 


today's garden photo, this Spanish lavender which appeared in 2 places in my yard. A complete mystery as I did have a scraggly purple flowered one which is long gone. Sometimes volunteer plants are the good kind :) 

white lavender 2022

Sunday, May 29, 2022

Burda puff sleeve top 03-2022-110

Actual sewing is moving to the back burner these days as plenty of other things are calling for my attention. After another dry winter it was finally time to face facts and re-do my front and back garden to use less water. My house was built in 1950 and the time for mostly lawn has passed in California. So it has been a big project to get the lawns out, enlarge the planting beds with more drought tolerant plants, and shrink my water bill. I don't know if I should envy you in the more rainy states - those summer storms/floods etc seem very scary but our water shortage is getting that way too. Of course I will still have a lot of flowers and color - that's my ideal garden, continuous color, just like my wardrobe :) 

As for recent sewing, I immediately wanted to try this pattern when I saw it in the Burda preview. 

Puff sleeve blouse 1

Now that I've made it I do have a couple of ideas for modification, including not using polyester as I did here. The fabric is one that I got at a sewing swap, so the color was nice but it will be set aside for winter wear. I wore it the other night on a warm evening and it did not feel great. 

Puff sleeve top

Here's a look at the pattern drawing and image from the magazine. 

Burda puff sleeve blouse magazine

I think I might like it with a shorter sleeve, which wouldn't be a difficult change and would lighten it up a bit. I do like the shape of the armhole, it's the slightly cut-in armhole that's my favorite for sleeveless dresses and it was nice to find it in a sleeved top as well.

Puff sleeve pattern piece

Here's the pattern pieces for the outer sleeve (larger one) and the sleeve lining. The shape and drape of the puff sleeve is created by gathering it onto the smaller sleeve and then sewing that as one unit into the top. 
Unfortunately when I finished it and put it on the inner sleeve was so tight as to be uncomfortable. I didn't feel like taking it all apart as this was kind of a test version of this top so I just cut some vertical slices in the lining to give it more room. If I make it again I will make the inner sleeve lining only about 10-15% smaller than the outer sleeve, that would be plenty to still have the support of the puff sleeve and gather the bottom edge. 

Puff sleeve inside

Now you can see my lining is made from scraps from my lining bin. Not exactly a matching fabric but it doesn't show at all. One less scrap in the bin! You can see how the inner sleeve lining allows the outer sleeve to blouse over the elastic edge. 

Puff lseeve back


In the photo above I'm wearing my latest version of the Ash jeans, the black pair shown here in the top. The fabric is a stretch cotton sateen with a dot texture. The other pair is a denim I had in my stash, it's nicely lightweight which makes them my "summer jeans". I hardly ever wear jeans in the summer - it's shorts or skirts but having a lighter weight pair should be useful. 

Puff sleeve blouse 2

Despite what appear to be quite a few pattern repeats, the recent couple of Burda magazines definitely have some nice summer dresses that I would like to sew. The repeats in the magazine don't bother me as I haven't been subscribing for very long but I can see that would be annoying if you already had many of them. I expect the pandemic has impacted production of the magazine as it has with the output of many pattern companies. However I'm glad they are all still putting out new patterns and wish I had more time to make them :)

That's all for now - as I seem to say in every post I hope to do another one soon. If my garden project permits. 

Happy Sewing,

Here's today's garden photo, the pink jasmine all along the back fence has just about finished blooming, but when it is in full flower the perfume is fantastic. 

pink jasmine 2022

Thursday, April 14, 2022

Vintage Vogue blazer in purple/black wool

It has frequently occurred, since I began blogging my sewing, that I make something way too wintery just as spring arrives with full force here in N. California. The daffodils are just about finished, the volunteer sunflowers in my yard have shown up with their golden sunny blooms and I sewed this jacket that is more suitable for a chilly December.  So I will post it here and then cram it in the recesses of my overflowing coat closet to hopefully be worn next fall. 

purple blazer on form

Note that black is so tricky to photograph so I have lightened all these pictures, both the indoor and outdoor ones so that the details can be seen. 
I bought this piece of wool tweed at a guild sale, it had a tag on stating it was 2 yards and from Mood Fabrics. I do recall seeing it on their website and being almost tempted. So it was meant to be mine anyway:) As for the pattern, this is a winner and I am planning to make it again in a lightweight summer fabric. It's a Vogue pattern from the '80's, not sure of the exact date. Vogue 1193.

Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope

This is a case where the illustration would lead you to believe that it calls for giant shoulder pads but that was not the case at all. I think they just succumbed to the trend of the day when creating the pattern envelope art. It calls for 1/2" shoulder pads which is not much different from those in current patterns. I will say that this fabric is much more like a coating weight and probably not the best choice for a blazer jacket, the collar is a bit bulky and doesn't lay as flat as I would like. 

purple blazer1

When I was making it I rummaged around in my stash as I thought I had some remnants of black velveteen which would have been nice for the upper collar, both to reduce the thickness and also to diminish the itch factor. I didn't find it and so continued on with the regular fabric. Now that it's finished I realize I could have used a remnant of black wool crepe to achieve the same end. The collar is so thick that it bugs me and I think next fall I will take it apart and redo the collar, but that is a project for another day!

blazer on form2

or maybe not :)  as look at how I have trimmed and graded all the seams. Probably not very fun to take apart. 

pressing jacket

This fabric was so thick and I thought the lapel would not lay flat so I used a method that I employ occasionally, which is to cut the interfacing on the lapel fold line. This allows the lapel to turn back at the spot where it needs to. You can see that my twill tape started out a bit too wide, I think I ordered it online and it turned out to be about 1/2" wide which is more than I wanted so I just trim it with a pinking shears. 

blazer roll line

Let's talk pockets. Ordinarily I'm not a fan of patch pockets, I just love a nice welt pocket but that was nearly impossible in this fabric and the pattern had the option of patch pockets. After I made the other vintage Vogue pattern last winter, (blog post here on that one where I used traditional tailoring methods, pad stitching and all. That jacket got three blog posts if you want to read all the details.)

purple jacket pocket

Here's the patch pocket in progress. How much do I love these old Vogue single size patterns? A LOT! And I just noticed on the pattern piece that it shows the size listed as size 12 but below that it says Femmes-40 which must be the French size, and then Damen - 38 so that is the German size, which corresponds exactly to the size I sew in Burda patterns. Never noticed that before. 
Anyway, this patch pocket is sewn around all the edges and then turned right side out, finishing it up with a little hand stitching at the bottom edge to enclose. 
And then I  hand stitched it to the jacket front, which was easy peasy in this fabric as the stitches would never show. 

tailors tacks in orange

I leave all my thread tailor's tacks in a garment until I get just about finished. It's one of those tasks I find enjoyable, plucking out the various thread markings.  Although it never fails that when I go to photograph something I find a rogue thread still embedded in a seam somewhere. 

blazer back on form
I think this pattern had a center back vent at the hem but I omitted it because in this thick fabric it would probably not lay flat. Also I wanted to get the fit in the hip area just right. I'm thinking of making this again in a lightweight summer fabric for a much more casual version. 
Let's take a minute to admire a feature that I very much appreciate in these older Vogue patterns, the collar roll line. And an under collar that is cut on the bias. What is up with some newer patterns, with the under collar cut on the fold, not bias. I do not like! 

pattern pieces Vogue 1193

purple blazer3

Too much purple? I think maybe.  I made this top a while ago from a remaining piece of hammered silk I had bought from Fashion Fabrics club and I'm not really liking it, and wish I had chosen a different pattern. Oh well. Next fall I will look for a fabric to make a shirt that goes with this jacket. 

Purple blazer lining

And yes, I did sew the lining in by hand, I just find it faster to do that rather than struggle with sewing it in by machine, I think it gives much more control. 

So that's the latest on my unseasonably winter sewing. Actually we went from wearing shorts last week to turtlenecks this week as it got very chilly - that's March/April for you in the bay area. But I have a few tomato plants in pots and the dahlias are sprouting so spring is here. My back yard is looking very scruffy these days and starting next month it will get a big makeover. All the sprinklers and drip irrigation gave up last summer so it's time for a refresh. A water conserving refresh - with more planting beds and less lawn. 

Vogue purple blazer

Happy spring sewing,

Today's garden photo, the big bag of Costco daffodils did not disappoint. You can see that if you buy over 100 daffodils you start to stuff them in the ground wherever you can. And they bloomed very well. Plus I read they repel gophers. A win! I think I will buy another bag next year and try to put them everywhere. 


Thursday, March 24, 2022

Embroidered Ash jeans

Last year I taught a jeans sewing class online and during that class I sewed up another pair of my favorite jeans pattern, which is the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen patterns. Since I was doing a lot of videos I wanted to make a very traditional denim jean with the contrast topstitching, and I found a perfect piece of stretch denim in my stash. Well not quite perfect, as it was a piece that I got at a fabric swap with Bay Area Sewists a few years ago. It had some fading in faint lines but it was ideal for sewing a jeans example so I went ahead and used it, thinking I would just keep them for future reference in classes.

embroidered jeans 3

But they came out really nicely, despite my annoyance at seeing the faint lines which turned out to be right across my thighs. In an effort to distract from that I decided to try some embroidery.This was one of those almost free projects as I got all the embroidery supplies at a sewing guild sale. In fact it was seeing an embroidery pattern that gave the idea. 

embroidered jeans transfer pattern

Actually I got 3 different transfer patterns that day, so I selected the motifs that went with the look I was trying to achieve. I've seen jeans with floral embroidery along the pant legs before and always thought they were nice, so it was in my mental file to do that one day. 
Fortunately for my dark denim fabric these transfers are in a yellow chalk so they definitely showed up on the jeans. Another pattern I got that day has transfers that are black (or maybe dark blue) so they would work on a different fabric but not on denim. 
embroidered jeans both sides

I used the same pattern transfer for some of my flowers as the model is wearing on her top, the part shown that goes up by the shoulders. Some of the motifs were too large or designed to be in the center of a garment. 

I also got all the embroidery flosses, such gorgeous colors! although I did succumb to buying a few more one day. So many colors to choose from, now I want to embroider again. This might be the perfect project for me as I've always wanted to have one that I could carry around like people do with knitting but I will never learn to knit (too many previous attempts and I think it's too slow for me). 

embroidered jeans front view

This is a better look at the fabric, you can see that fade line running across the thighs, unfortunately I placed that there both front and back. In some light it's not really noticeable and it other light it seems very prominent. So I will just have to learn to ignore it as I think these jeans are really cute for summer wear. At least until it gets very hot - the denim is quite heavy. 

Which made embroidering the legs a challenge. I do not recommend deciding after making pants to embroider! It would be so easy to do them before sewing up - embroidering long stiff tubes of fabric was really annoying. Live and learn. 

embroidered jeans side full view

Here's a look at the inside of the jeans. I made these just as the pattern states, so the pockets are not attached at the center front. Usually when I make them I change the pocket to a continuous waist stay type of pocket that is seamed into the center front zipper as they are in this pair.

embroidered jeans inside

I think this is the second piece of denim I've sewn up that had "sample" written on the inside in that yellow lettering. I think I got both pieces pre-covid at a Bay Area Sewists meetup fabric swap.

So that's the latest on my embroidered jeans - I think they will be nice for spring but definitely too heavy to wear in summer. Actually I almost never wear jeans in summer unless I go through the tunnel to the foggy/cooler side of the bay!

Up next - not sure, I have a few projects on the back burner right now and as of this afternoon I have finished the prom dress I was sewing for the daughter of a friend. It was an involved project due to the fabric but it is DONE. and I can move on to other things. Here's a tiny sneak peek. By the way I have documented a lot of the making of this dress in my Instagram stories and saved them to a highlight called Prom Dress. 


In fact that view of my backyard is scheduled to change in April, I'm having the lawn mostly removed. The planting areas will changed around in front and back, and generally moving to a much more water-wise garden. No choice here in California where we are in year 3 of drought and now it's called a mega-drought. Which sounds ominous. Anyway - more California native plants but still plenty of color. 

I'm continuing with online classes via Hello Stitch and next month I'm doing a spring dress class, 
making both the Myosotis Dress from Deer and Doe, and also the McCalls 7969 (which is still available as a free digital pattern now on the website, not sure how long that will be the case). Register for the class on the Hello Stitch website. 

Happy Spring Sewing,

today's garden photo, this cheerful daffodil.


Sunday, March 6, 2022

Quilted plaid jacket, part 2 Burda 09-2021-115

 So much for my resolution to blog more frequently this year.  But other parts of life have intervened and I just never found the time to sit down and write. Despite that I have sewn a lot and have plenty of things to post. Also I've worn this jacket so much already, so I'm really glad that I decided to try both a bit of quilting and used something from the stash. Here is part one of this jacket, where I wrote about the construction and pattern that I used. 

Plaid jacket1

I could even see making it again in a summer weight fabric. 

pocket flap

I really like these pockets, and I did have enough of this remnant fabric to match them nicely. 

quilting closeup

If you look closely you can see some of my quilting stitching. It does have a layer of quilt batting (also remnants) but because I used the plaid as my stitch guide the quilting doesn't show. Also the quilt batting is kind of thin but that means it's a bit cozier to wear but not bulky.

plaid facing

One thing I'm kind of fanatical about when sewing plaids is the facing which has to match the plaid and again I did just have enough fabric to do so here. I think it looks nicer if they match especially when the neckline area of a coat or jacket is worn slightly open so that you see the facing. 

quilt jacket adding lining

My box of lining fabrics sometimes makes me think of Mary Poppins magical carpet bag, as I seems whenever I look in it I find just the right thing. So I had this bemberg rayon lining in the perfect color. I sewed the lining in by hand as I like to stitch the facings down first and then attach the lining. You can see a bit of the quilt batting and stitching lines there in the photo. 

plaid jacket 2

Things are not looking good for our drought situation here in N. California, as you can see. Some of those plants have a bit of frost damage which is normal but we haven't had any appreciable rain in Feb. or March and I don't think we will. The spring project around here is to re-landscape the front of my house with all low-water plantings, and then in the back yard to reduce the lawn considerably and replace all the irrigation. So I hope it's all complete by the end of April and I can get back to trying to fit in more plants :) 

This weekend was a bittersweet one as it was the last days for Hello Stitch Studio as a physical space. The opportunity to teach classes there came up at a perfect time in my life and I have enjoyed it more than I can say. I've made a lot of good friends because of that connection and I know they will continue but we will all miss sewing together. I guess the past 2 years of the pandemic has been a bit of a preview as the studio was mostly closed although it did reopen last fall with a lot of Covid protocols in place. Despite those restrictions we held many sessions of learn to sew garment classes. People did look around during the lockdown and decide that they could learn to make their clothes, so it was really rewarding. Their building was sold and that precipitated the closure, however some of the owners are continuing Hello Stitch Studio as an online venture for now, and have some opportunities for a space nearby for in-person classes so I will likely be doing some of those once things settle out. I have several other opportunities to teach in-person classes so I will let you know when that is all decided. 

Meanwhile we are continuing the online classes, I start a new one this Tuesday evening, which is Sew the Emerson Pants  so if you are interested you can register at the link. 

That's the latest on my classes. In other projects I'm actually sewing a prom dress for the daughter of a friend of mine, reproducing the look from a picture she showed me. I will probably post some about this here after it's finished, but if you want to follow along I am doing posts in my Instagram stories, and saving them all to an Instagram highlight titled "Prom Dress". 

Stay well everyone and I hope for an end to the madness in Ukraine, it's tragic to watch things unfold but inspirational to see the bravery and fortitude of the Ukrainian people. 


This great photo was taken by my dear friend Halyna @zigzagstitching  on IG, a proud and worried Ukrainian.

Plaid jacket sidewalk

Sunday, February 6, 2022

Quilted plaid jacket, part 1 Burda 09-2021-115

This time of year I try to organize any fabrics that I have and in particular see what large remnants I can make use of. In my stash I had 1 yard piece of a blue plaid wool, not quite enough to make a jacket but I looked around for a coordinating fabric. I had a solid blue piece remaining from my tri-color coat so decided to use those and get two pieces out of a fabric bin. Here's a look at the finished jacket, which doesn't appear quilted at all. 

Plaid jacket on form

What made me think about doing a quilted jacket? At Hello Stitch one day I noticed a big pile of quilt batting remnants and asked about them. Turns out when they stitch a quilt on the longarm machine, and use yardage from their roll of batting, depending on the size and width of the quilt there can be quite large remnants of very nice batting in silk, wool or poly that are left over. So I took a good stack of these remnants just because they seemed useful but I didn't have an idea. Then while perusing my Burda magazines (for the millionth time - something I do when waiting for things like for the oven to heat up). I noticed this pattern for a quilted jacket and thought it would be easy to make and it doesn't take a large amount of fabric. 
Burda quilted jacket magazine

So first I cut out the pattern pieces in the plaid wool fabric, then using the convenience of plaid I stitching them to the batting. 

Quilting with batting

The quilting doesn't really show at all and I played around with adding more quilt lines but it just made it look busy but not in a good way. So I have ended up with a nice and warm quilted jacket that doesn't really look quilted. 
Once I had all the jacket body pieces quilted then I had to decide on the closure. I think on the pattern they call for snaps but that didn't seem like it would go for this fabric. I rummaged around in my button box for some coordinating buttons and decided to make bound buttonholes. With the wool plus thickness of batting I didn't think any of my buttonhole makers would succeed, at least in uniform stitching on that many buttonholes. For bound buttonholes I always start with a thread ladder, which sets out the location of the buttonholes in both vertical and horizontal placement. If you look at this picture below you can see some markings for my tests of other quilt lines, including some hand stitching which just looked too handcrafty to me. 

bound buttonhole ladder

Then I made the welts. I have never had any success with the one piece method, perhaps I will give it a try again but I just make the buttonholes like miniature pocket openings. One of the few times I use a rotary cutter!
making bound buttonhole welt

making bound buttonhole welt1
Maybe not even noticeable but I like to cut the buttonhole welts on the bias in plaids, it adds some visual contrast.

bound buttonhole pinned on
I mark the ends of the stitching with chalk so that the top and bottom welts of the buttonholes are exactly even. 

bound buttonhole stitched on
Once all the buttonholes are stitched, I cut them open and turn them, tucking in the edges to create the actual buttonhole. The folded edge starts out on the outer edge, but after stitching and then cutting open it flips to the center to create the edges where the button slips through. Once they are all pressed then I trim the edges on the inside, usually rounding the corners and trying to remove any bulk that will later be sandwiched between the jacket front and the front facing. 
Next up was to make the pockets, which I really like on the jacket and I think make the look. It's kind of a barn jacket style. I might have to make this one again sometime...Anyway, I had not cut out the pockets initially, just reserved some fabric in order to do that. I had marked with tailor's tacks the pocket placement on the jacket front pieces. 
So the way I cut out plaid patch pockets is to lay the pocket pattern piece on the jacket front and trace some of the plaid lines onto the paper. That way I can put it on the fabric and cut out exact plaid matches, in both vertical and horizontal color lines. Hopefully you can see my pencil lines on the pattern pieces here that note the plaid lines. I typically pick the most prominent lines, in this case it was the yellow stripes and matched those. I am super happy with the way these turned out! In the past I haven't really been a fan of patch pockets but this is the second wool jacket I've made with them (first one here) and I just cut out another one.

Pocket plaid design

making patch pocket

I put weft interfacing on both the patch pocket and the pocket flap, it seemed to need some support and also to make it match the thickness of the jacket body. I had this lovely coordinating bemberg lining in my big box of lining fabrics. Sometimes I think that container is like Mary Poppins bag, every time I dip into it out comes just what I need - maybe that luck will continue if I believe in the magic :)
Time to discuss sleeves. With jackets/coats from Burda or Vogue patterns I don't think I ever add the gathering stitches on the sleeve cap. Is this shocking? I find them not needed and most times the sleeve fits in beautifully.
quilt jacket ease sleeve

Often I pin in the sleeves and then hand baste both in just to see if I like the placement, once in a while I will tilt the shoulder of the sleeve forward slightly, or move it in to make the shoulder less wide. 
Then I will machine baste it in and check how they look. In this picture below the sleeve on the left is machine sewn in but the one on the right is still hand basted only, and you can see how well it fits in the armhole. Burda sleeves/armholes are really nice. 

bound buttonhole

checking seam allowance on sleeve

I then do one row of machine basting, and after that check that the seam allowance is consistent all around the armhole. Sometimes it's easy to stitch wide or narrow, particularly at the underarm or at the upper back and if you stitch wider you are taking out width across the back and across the sleeve cap. So check those seam allowances. Then I do any adjustments needed and then give it a final stitch with regular stitch length, twice around at 5?8" and 1/2".
For the collar I used the solid blue on the inside, it's super soft and non-itchy which is what I like in collars.  The pattern had a square corner on the collar and I rounded it off a bit, now I wish I had rounded it even more as it looks a bit pointy to me. Note for next time. 

quilt jacket collar point
So that's some of the sewing details on this project, next post I will have the finished garment photos.
Meanwhile I'm in the midst of a jumpsuit class (online) and a few more in-person classes at Hello Stitch. Also I'm doing a lot of individual lessons either via Zoom or in person so if you want more info on that get in touch.
The other project on my to-do list is a complete revamp of the irrigation of my front and back garden areas. Drought plus aging pipes and sprinklers means it's time for a refresh, changing out some areas for low-water usage and getting rid of some lawn. We had ZERO rain for these last 4 weeks after a good soaking so we quickly went from drought is ending to drought is never-ending. Scary!
Meanwhile among my other projects I cut out a new project, using a vintage Vogue jacket pattern. So I will sew that up in a few minutes here or there and maybe finish that by the end of the month. Love using those vintage single size patterns - they are so easy to work with. 
Happy Sewing,

today's garden photo - what else but this year's first daffodil. So cheerful 
First daffodil 2022