One more finished item, Saler Blazer from Pauline Alice patterns

Here's my not quite last post of 2019. In the interest of blogging just about everything I have made this year today's item is a wool blazer I started in September as an example for my Jacket Tailoring class, back when the temps around here were nearing 100℉ ! Needless to say that I set it aside for a good couple of months until the weather was more conducive. By the way, as I write there is one spot open for my Intro to Tailoring weekend workshop at Hello Stitch which is the first weekend in Feb.

I plan to do another post this week, reviewing my sewing year and a few ideas for the next, and perhaps even sneaking in some photos of things that never made it to the blog. But for today, a wool blazer sewn completely with fabrics given to me by the lovely ladies at Hello Stitch. Can you believe these were leftovers after they had a fabric swap? ( I can believe there were no takers for the lining :)



And yes, I'm wearing mostly black - quite unusual for me. I put that black cashmere turtleneck on my list for Santa as I thought it would be very useful with so many bright color jackets that I have made. Although I did sew a shirt that goes with this jacket - a bit more springlike so it will have to wait.

Let's start with some insides. If you read my post earlier this month comparing blazer jacket patterns you have seen this type of jacket collar, which has a stand that gives it some structure. I'm not entirely sold on it, although I have made this pattern three times now so I guess it doesn't bother me.
Sales jackets: the first (with lots of sewing details) and the second.



That's the stage when the jacket is finished, shoulder pads are in and it is just waiting for the lining, which I sew in by hand.

And here's the finished jacket looking a strange color as it was a rainy day and I think I lightened up the photo which was very shadowy. But you can see the details.





See that lining is a bit wild, at least for me. But a very nice fabric, and as I mentioned above, free! I like solid linings in coordinating or matching colors. I guess I'm just a bit boring that way - but remember - no beige in my wardrobe so I guess I can be a bit stringent in my lining choices. Here's the lining sewn in, for the sleeves I rummaged in the linings scraps box to find something solid that was reasonably coordinating, as I really didn't want that leopard/floral/weirdness peeking out at the wrist.



Let's talk buttons and thread. I am not particularly fussy when it comes to sewing garments, I generally use thread in black, white, navy, red, or grey if any of those are in the same color family for the seams and other sewing. The stitches do not show and it's so much easier to see what you are doing if the thread is a slight contrast to the fabric. So I probably sewed this with grey thread, but that does leave the buttonholes as a conundrum.



I always made sample buttonholes to see how the fabric behaves and to see the thread color.  I made these using my old Singer machine, as it can make larger buttonholes than the attachment with my newer Singer. Plus the quality is better, you can go around the buttonhole several times, changing the width of the stitch which gives it a more three dimensional look. On those above I probably just went around once to check thread color. I thought the royal blue (top one) looked better than the turquoise which was actually closer to the fabric color.  I bought these gorgeous shell buttons at Britex in San Francisco. My two favorite buttons are leather knot buttons or shell buttons and I mostly use those on tailored jackets if I can.






I think the sleeves are a bit wrinkly which is due to the soft fabric. I have kind of a wrinkle mania and could have minimized that by applying fusible interfacing to the whole jacket but that seemed a bit much, also it makes it more stiff and I wanted to keep it a soft and easy jacket (but with crisp lapels :) Why do wrinkles bug me so much? not sure - everyone has their preference and mine is for smooth or even intentionally textured fabrics, but the random wrinkles of wear just annoy me. Psychological analysis for another day, ha ha.

A few more details.  I like to use lining inside the pocket flap, reduces bulk.



A look at the little angle at the hem seam allowance that allows the hem to turn up and fit inside smoothly.



A tiny piece of blue silk to wrap around the edge of the facing near the front hem.









Here's a look at at shirt I just made, as I noticed this fabric in my stash seemed to go well with the jacket. Let me know if you think these two items can be worn together. I think with dark denim jeans although it is pretty colorful! I got that cotton/silk voile from Mood back in August, just because I loved the print and those cotton/silk voiles are dreamy to sew and to wear.



The different color in every image is a bit bothersome, I would say the outdoor photos are the most accurate color of this jacket.

So that's the latest on this blazer. I think I'm ready to put this pattern way back in the file drawer, and try out something new. The lovely owners at Hello Stitch gave me a gift card for Mood so there will be more wonderful fabrics in the near future.
Today I've been sewing on a pair of wool pants, something I haven't made in a while but I did say on Instagram when I posted a peek of this blue jacket that I had fabric leftover and was prepared to go full pantsuit. Now I'm not so sure but in any case I have just made a very wearable pair in black/grey houndstooth as a trial run.

Up next, a roundup of 2019, and a look ahead. We have some great classes scheduled at Hello Stitch, a lot of them are booking up so if you are interested register soon! You can sign up for their newsletter to get details on future classes.

And now I have to dash, my resolution is to organize my fabric stash and sewing room. Stay tuned to see if that happens😉

Happy Sewing, Beth

Blazer jacket with velvet collar, Pauline Alice Saler jacket in check wool

It seems like jackets are having a moment. Or at least a resurgence in popularity. Perhaps it was kicked off during the last two elections and the pantsuits worn by women candidates, or maybe we were due a return of 80's fashion, which means oversized jackets, suits and dare I say, shoulder pads. Either way I'm happy for this development as I've always loved sewing blazers (also wearing them) and feel like the sewing community is starting to feel the same way.

So during January when I had to wait on finishing the blazer I sewed for Heather, I sewed up this blazer jacket for myself. I have a older jacket in my closet that I can't part with, it's black and white houndstooth check I made using a Ann Klein Vogue pattern ages ago. It's slightly dated and I shortened it a while ago, not entirely successfully (you can see it worn here).

But I had so much use out of that jacket I decided I needed a new one in my wardrobe. This version is the Pauline Alice Saler Jacket pattern. This is my second version, as I tested this pattern for her in 2016. I think she is one of the few people that make outerwear with nice details and I always look forward to seeing what she comes up with. (other coats I've made from her patterns, neither one for me as it happens, the Quart Coat and Hemisferic Coat.



I was out for a glass of wine with a friend and figured I would take a few photos of this jacket but to my delight we happened to walk by this window display which seems perfect for a sewing obsessive like me.

The fabric for this jacket is something I ordered from Fabric Mart I think just after Christmas. On the website it looked more black/white to me and I was slightly disappointed when it arrived and it looks more like grey, the checks are smaller than I anticipated. But it is a really nice quality wool, perfect for this type of jacket.



I decided to make the collar as a contrast and used black velvet for the upper collar, and then black wool crepe for the under collar and the pocket welts. Both small remnants in my stash. I hoard all pieces of velvet and velveteen for uses just like this one because while I love to wear wool I have an aversion to anything itchy touching my neck. Problem solved!



Pressing velvet is a very specific technique and also I have a needle board, or velvet board which I've had for a long long time. Every time I mention it I get asked about it, the brand it Dritz so it's not some exotic item but I think very few fabric stores carry them. I just did a search and they are between $ 70-140 on various places so if you see one at a garage or estate sale buy it!







But using the needle board generally means no worries on pressing things like this velvet upper collar. I use it on other napped fabrics like corduroy and velveteen, even some wools.




I rarely button up jackets like this but it was very chilly! OK chilly for us here in N. Cal.




By the way - I will do a blog post next on the shirt I'm wearing - it's not quite that color in real live but almost. I just got the latest iPhone and am still figuring out the various photo settings. (and I miss the home button!)

Let's talk buttonholes. I wanted this jacket to have a traditional look so I opted for stitched buttonholes and used my ever trusty Singer and the best buttonhole attachment, and chose the keyhole buttonhole template.






That's my Singer (one of them) and the buttonhole attachment. It works on all the Singer Slant Needle machines.

Here is a sampling of buttonholes made using this attachment. It uses templates, the metal keyhole template is shown below. So you can't change the size of the buttonhole once you have chosen the template. I find the templates available cover all the sizes needed, and since I made this reference sample I've found more templates at sales (including a round one that is perfect for making the holes on a belt).



It's definitely the opposite of electronic - it makes quite a noise but I like it as you can go around as many times as you want, with the exact same pattern so you can make a good thick buttonhole which is ideal for a lot of fabrics. If you're super interested in all things buttonhole then I did a post about this ages ago, with a lot more photos and details plus video of the thing in action.  Here's the link.

Back view, and it fits me a lot better than on this dress form.





A little inside peek because everyone seems to like seeing that :)  I do a combo of hand stitching of seams and fusible interfacing.




Yeah I'm on a roll with the silk shirts lately and now have a few sizable scraps which I'm figuring out how to combine into one jewel toned extravaganza of silk top-ness. Stay tuned!

Note this jacket has shoulder princess seams which make it very easy to get the right fit at shoulders waist and hips. I use my measurements and veer between sizes and then adjust when I have it sewn together, with a bit of nipping in at the waist or hip as needed.






Purple satin lining because that's what I found in my box of linings. A slightly weightier lining but perfect to add a bit of heft to this jacket. I love a nice satin lining and while I don't usually go for any novelty lining a suitably jewel toned one is OK with me.

If you use the search box in the right hand column you can find all kinds of jacket and coat posts with lots of details. Also as I mentioned in my previous post you can look at the Highlight "Wool Jacket" on my Instagram profile page to see all the steps in the wool jacket I sewed recently for Heather.

Up next - I just finished another Burda magazine item, and an ultra suede version of skirt Vogue 1247 - that perennial favorite. Plus a Tamarack jacket as I taught that class over the weekend with lots of really fun jackets accomplished. Coming up a fitting class on Thursday 3/14, and then check the web page for Hello Stitch, classes are really filling up fast. There might be one or two spots open in the wrap dress class which is on Sat. March 23. Something new - I'm going to do a Culotte class as that seems such a great wardrobe item for spring/summer (or anytime). And Ash jeans again - in the beginning of June. Hope to see you there :)

In other news, should I mention that I saw the first tulip in my garden this morning? While we are still in the midst of a very rainy winter (which is great for our water needs!) I think spring is on it's way. At least here it is, I feel for you all in the polar vortex!





Happy Sewing, Beth

today's garden photo, these pink camellias are so messy but such a pretty shade of pink.