Winter Plaid Jacket: Burdastyle 126 Nov 2023

Right after Christmas it was a gloomy weather weekend, just the time to stay in with a sewing project. However I didn't have anything in mind so I went through my stash of wools and came across this Pendleton plaid, 2 yards, which I had bought at an ASG stash sale last year. Because it was a very nice fabric and I couldn't pass it up for $ 4. 

In this case I was "influenced" by a post on Instagram, as I frequently look at the #burdastyle hashtag and I kept seeing the same post with this jacket in a green brocade that looked great. (Boo to the algorithm that shows me the same posts over and over again instead of new posts in chronological order, but I guess that complaint is old news now).  

This style is a bit different for me but with our very mild recent winters a lightweight wool jacket might be something I get to wear more than anticipated. The pattern went together really well and the plaid matching worked out perfectly. I do really hate to sew separating zippers, it's just my least favorite thing to do but I got over my fear on this one. 

I put a little fusible interfacing on the center front edge where the zipper is, I find that makes the zipper sew in more smoothly. And then the hand basting to get the plaids to match across the center front. The pattern has a button band which is applied after the zipper/lining are done, and I sewed it but then I just didn't like the way it looked. Although perhaps I will go back and add it, as I have saved it. Mostly the reason I skipped it is I didn't really have any good buttons in the stash and didn't feel like shopping for any. It does mean that the lining shows up at the top where the collar turns back but I think it looks OK. 

My favorite thing about this jacket is the plaid matching which I think is fun! Burda patterns have always worked out very well for me with plaids which I think is an indication of a well-designed pattern. 

To get the pockets to match perfectly I cut out the jacket pieces and then overlaid the pocket pattern pieces on the jacket front to draw in the grids, then cut out the pockets/flaps so they would match. 

The sleeves have a seam down the top of the arm to the wrist, and they matched well also. When in doubt use an even plaid, one that is equidistant squares so there is no shift across the plaid. I think I wrote a post for the Craftsy blog about plaid matching (I wrote so many articles for that site and most of them have vanished, a few are still there). Also on the blog here if you search plaid matching in the sidebar I have several posts with tips on working with plaids. 

The bottom of the sleeves on this jacket seemed a bit odd to me, I thought they had a cuff or maybe elastic but no they are just finished like a coat sleeve, which I guess works and is less to do. 

I am glad I tried this pattern, it's a nice change from my usual winter style of a blazer or coat. I could even see making it again in a lightweight version for spring/summer. 

Sewing classes:  I have a few classes coming up in the next months with Hello Stitch. A Chore coat class next weekend, Feb. 8-9 with a couple of spots left.  Sunday March 9 is my "how to read a pattern" class, which is a great intro to sewing patterns, choosing sizes, how to measure yourself, and then a bit on some basic bodice adjustments. Then on March 22-23 is a Shirt Class. Those are the links for more info and to register. 

Up next, I'm making a couple of things for Heather and perhaps a new pair of corduroy jeans for myself. 

This time of year I am in garden maintenance mode - there is an unending pile of fallen leaves to rake up and then lots of pruning, weeding and planning for spring. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

The first daffodils for today's garden photo. With many more to come. 

Quilted plaid jacket, part 2 Burda 09-2021-115

 So much for my resolution to blog more frequently this year.  But other parts of life have intervened and I just never found the time to sit down and write. Despite that I have sewn a lot and have plenty of things to post. Also I've worn this jacket so much already, so I'm really glad that I decided to try both a bit of quilting and used something from the stash. Here is part one of this jacket, where I wrote about the construction and pattern that I used. 

I could even see making it again in a summer weight fabric. 

I really like these pockets, and I did have enough of this remnant fabric to match them nicely. 

If you look closely you can see some of my quilting stitching. It does have a layer of quilt batting (also remnants) but because I used the plaid as my stitch guide the quilting doesn't show. Also the quilt batting is kind of thin but that means it's a bit cozier to wear but not bulky.

One thing I'm kind of fanatical about when sewing plaids is the facing which has to match the plaid and again I did just have enough fabric to do so here. I think it looks nicer if they match especially when the neckline area of a coat or jacket is worn slightly open so that you see the facing. 

My box of lining fabrics sometimes makes me think of Mary Poppins magical carpet bag, as I seems whenever I look in it I find just the right thing. So I had this bemberg rayon lining in the perfect color. I sewed the lining in by hand as I like to stitch the facings down first and then attach the lining. You can see a bit of the quilt batting and stitching lines there in the photo. 

Things are not looking good for our drought situation here in N. California, as you can see. Some of those plants have a bit of frost damage which is normal but we haven't had any appreciable rain in Feb. or March and I don't think we will. The spring project around here is to re-landscape the front of my house with all low-water plantings, and then in the back yard to reduce the lawn considerably and replace all the irrigation. So I hope it's all complete by the end of April and I can get back to trying to fit in more plants :) 

This weekend was a bittersweet one as it was the last days for Hello Stitch Studio as a physical space. The opportunity to teach classes there came up at a perfect time in my life and I have enjoyed it more than I can say. I've made a lot of good friends because of that connection and I know they will continue but we will all miss sewing together. I guess the past 2 years of the pandemic has been a bit of a preview as the studio was mostly closed although it did reopen last fall with a lot of Covid protocols in place. Despite those restrictions we held many sessions of learn to sew garment classes. People did look around during the lockdown and decide that they could learn to make their clothes, so it was really rewarding. Their building was sold and that precipitated the closure, however some of the owners are continuing Hello Stitch Studio as an online venture for now, and have some opportunities for a space nearby for in-person classes so I will likely be doing some of those once things settle out. I have several other opportunities to teach in-person classes so I will let you know when that is all decided. 

Meanwhile we are continuing the online classes, I start a new one this Tuesday evening, which is Sew the Emerson Pants  so if you are interested you can register at the link. 

That's the latest on my classes. In other projects I'm actually sewing a prom dress for the daughter of a friend of mine, reproducing the look from a picture she showed me. I will probably post some about this here after it's finished, but if you want to follow along I am doing posts in my Instagram stories, and saving them all to an Instagram highlight titled "Prom Dress". 

Stay well everyone and I hope for an end to the madness in Ukraine, it's tragic to watch things unfold but inspirational to see the bravery and fortitude of the Ukrainian people. 

Beth

This great photo was taken by my dear friend Halyna @zigzagstitching  on IG, a proud and worried Ukrainian.

Plaid wool coat with a Patrones pattern

Spring is trying to arrive here in N. California and as I said in my previous post, I've finished another coat that will have to hibernate until next fall. 

Combining a plaid fabric for outerwear can be a bit of a tricky thing to get right and I think this simple coat pattern worked for this fabric. As I mentioned in the previous post, this plaid is both uneven and unbalanced so I wanted a pattern that had very few seams. I received this fabric from Minerva and I have posted on their site here, but as usual I like to post everything to the blog.

When I saw this fabric on the Minerva website I didn't think the plaid was as large as it turned out to be. So that meant a bit of a rethink on what to make with it. Originally I had planned for a jacket but I thought the large scale didn't suit the pattern I had in mind. That's what sent me looking for a simple coat pattern. Also this fabric is definitely the right weight for a coat and perhaps a bit too much for the type of jacket I like to wear. 

I think for a coat like this it's all about the plaid matching, if it didn't match then I would consider the thing unwearable.  My previous post has all the details on the pattern used which is from the Spanish sewing magazine Patrones Issue 402, pattern 26.  Last summer I first tried this pattern magazine, which is actually available as an app for iPhone or iPad. Here's the link to that post if you are interested in learning about Patrones. 

I really wanted the facing to match exactly as well, which you can see in this picture below. When you wear a coat like this it's often open and unbuttoned, so the facing shows a lot. 

However with this large plaid I barely had enough fabric to cut all the outer pieces and the facings needed a bit of help. I had to piece the facing at the bottom edge. I find that doing piecing weirdly satisfying. It's a pattern puzzle that's fun to solve - or at least I think so. Also piecing is a strange looking word, I checked the spelling and that seems correct but it still looks odd to me.  But the piecing is just about tolerable. 

The lining is something that I received in a stash of fabric and linings that was given to me a few months ago. I get offered a lot of fabric and usually don't accept but this sounded intriguing as it was from a former instructor of fashion design. As it turned out I took a couple of bins which had a bunch of lovely wool crepes (which you will see sewn up next fall) some great linings, a lot of interfacing (always welcome) and quite a few patternmaking books plus teaching materials. Score! This red lining was ideal for this coat. 

 

I took these pictures a while ago on a very gray day, which turned to sunshine for the last few weeks. Meaning no coat wearing for me, although it's supposed to rain a little bit tomorrow and that will be our last for a while. 

I kind of wanted to make a tie belt of the same fabric to give the coat some shaping but didn't have any to spare. With a belt it does give a bit more shaping although I probably wouldn't wear it with that, too much trouble to deal with a belt. 

So that's a wrap on my winter sewing - definitely time to think Spring! 

We have a couple of live/online classes on the calendar for the next couple of months, here are the links to sign up. Note we call it the Hello Stitch Garment Sewing Club - but you don't have to take each month's class. However the sewing camaraderie we've developed has been great, with lots of people jumping in and out depending on their availability and interest. The other night we were talking about meeting up in person for some fabric shopping! very exciting :) Things are finally feeling better here in N. California, businesses and schools are opening back up, people are getting vaccinated and I think we will have a much better summer than the previous one. 

Classes for May and June:

Sew Crop Pants  4:30-6pm Starts May 11  

Sew the Kalle Shirt or Shirtdress  7-8:30pm Starts May 11  (by the way - you can sew any shirtdress you would like if you prefer a different pattern) 

Sew your own Jeans  7-8:30pm Starts June 1

Hello Stitch has a lot of other really interesting classes online as well, embroidery, quilting, paper arts, here's the link.  I think after the pandemic problems are over, the live+online learning habit might continue. It will be interesting to see. 

Today I need to get outside and work on my hanging flower baskets, which have been neglected all winter, and of course more weeding. Tomorrow it's supposed to rain so I will plan on some sewing, I started a silk top in a color I'm not so sure about (grass green) but it may work out. 

Happy Spring Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden photo, a lone red tulip which survived the gopher attack. Honestly, most years that center island is filled with tulips but this year my little nemesis has caused some serious damage all over the garden. So I just had a few tulips and now I'm investigating more gopher resistant plants! 

Some jumpsuits for friends and the beginning of a new coat

Oops I've done it again, sewn up a nice winter coat as our weather changes to sunshine and no layers required. If I look back on the blog I seem to have done this a few times. Note to self, make the coat before November. Yeah, that's not going to happen as it is still quite hot here then so I couldn't deal with sewing a wool coat. Consequently I have another one that I may keep for next winter or pass on to a friend. That seems to be the theme of my pandemic sewing, which is just as well since my closets are bursting and I don't need anything. But there are so many interesting patterns and beautiful fabric that I want to sew up. 
I will get to the coat in a minute - this will be the first of two posts about it as it had a few interesting details. But what I have been busy sewing lately are a couple of different jumpsuits in anticipation of my April sewing class with Hello Stitch Studio. For this class we're doing coveralls. I think that is a great catch-all term for what are variously called boiler suits, flight suits, and jumpsuits. They all have a bit of a mechanic's workwear look and I had to be convinced a little, but now I'm fully on board. However I haven't made one for myself. (see above paragraph re: bursting closets) 

So to familiarize myself with these patterns I sewed the Merchant and Mills Thelma Boilersuit for Stacey, one of the owners of Hello Stitch. 

What a great style, it has just the right amount of ease to be comfortable and plenty of pockets to carry everything. I did puzzle a bit over the instructions but that's why I sew up things before my class so I can explain the construction details. 

Not to be content with making one coverall, I managed another one for my friend Halnya (@zigzagstitching on IG). This is the Blanca Flightsuit from Closet Core Patterns, in a mystery fabric which came in the big stash of fabrics an estate clean-out gave me earlier this year. 

Both these patterns have some clever details and some opportunities to learn new skills (hidden buttonhole placket, center front zipper with placket, both a bit tricky!)  

So if you are interested in making a coverall style jumpsuit the class starts next Tues. April April 6, 7pm. for four weeks. By the way - if you aren't interested in this specific type of jumpsuit but want to join in the class anyway that's fine, on Thursdays we sew together, check progress, I answer questions and troubleshoot how things are going. Plus we all get to have some sewing conversation with fellow fabric lovers. 

By the way, for both these garments I chose a size based on their measurements and the fit was nice so I think these styles have a bit of wiggle room and fit is not such an issue  - although I have some ideas about construction allowing you to fit as you go. 

Back to the coat. When I saw this fabric choice as a Minerva Ambassador I was really excited as I've seen a lot of very cool fashion-y plaid coats this past winter and wanted to try one. The slight trouble with plaid outerwear is that you have to choose your coordinating outfit kind of carefully, but I thought that the grey/red/black combo would work out with things I like to wear in the winter. Note I received this fabric from Minerva.com in exchange for sewing it up and posting about it. 

Here's a look at the fabric and a bit about how I match the plaid. This step was cutting out the coat front facings. I like the facings to match the plaid lines exactly as the outer part, and fortunately I had enough fabric to do so with a tiny adjustment which you will see later. For big stripes like this I draw them on my pattern pieces and it really helps to get everything lined up. I generally choose one dominant stripe and use that as my guide line, so here I used the white line. 

Note that this is an uneven plaid - meaning it is not symmetrical so you have to approach it carefully and decide where you want the prominent lines plus how you can lay it out so it doesn't look unbalanced on the back, for example. 

Here's another look at the plaid matching.  I think this was matching at the side seams, front and back. Also for coats I often put a cut-on extension on the pocket area so that you don't see the pocket lining, so much easier than sewing something on. 

This is the pattern I used, it's from Patrones digital app, I will have to look up which issue it's from. But my main goal was to use a pattern with minimal seaming and thus simple pattern matching. 

 

I did a good rummage through my button box and found these 4 red buttons, which were entirely suitable. If I was running out shopping for every little thing these day I might have chosen some larger buttons but these are just fine and had the added bonus of being right there in my stash!

That's a test buttonhole, extra large but I was trying to see if doing it on the bias was noticeable. I decided it was so I went with that. 

Since I took the photos as I went I'm just going to include all the bound buttonhole process photos for those who like details. 

1. Thread ladder

2. Pin welts on outside of coat, mark stitch end with chalk

3. Stitch on right side, turn and press

4. later when facing is attached I slice open the facing, turn in edges and hand stitch to rectangle of buttonhole on that side. (I don't use the "window" method)

Here's a look at the coat in progress, with buttonholes mostly done but before I attached the facing.

So that's what I've been up to. Spring has definitely arrived, time to get out the sandals although we all wish it would rain again - it's going to be a very dry summer. 

Perhaps my next project will be a spring dress for meeeeeeee! I have my first vaccine and with the next one a couple of weeks away I think this summer will be a big improvement over last year. 

Happy Sewing and stay well. 

Beth

today's garden photo, I don't think much of azaleas, as they bloom for a short while and then they are done - but oh when they do, the color is fantastic. 

Burda 8/2016 # 124B in green plaid - bring on the holidays

Sometimes I get on a kick for sewing or wearing a particular color. While I have made the typical number of aqua, turquoise or blue items I have been favoring the color green this year. Of course if I make a coat in a specific color then I'm off and running trying to create other looks to be worn with the coat. Plus I see so many Burdastyle patterns on their website that have interesting details or shaping. Getting hard to resist a subscription to the magazine. The only thing that stops me is the tracing - far easier to buy the PDF patterns that I actually plan to sew.



This one is from Burda August, specifically Burda 08/2016 # 124B. Maybe not the best choice for plaid - it would have been lot easier in a solid color or some other type of pattern. But I think I succeeded with the fabric. Which has been telling me it needed to be a winter dress. I think I bought it last year at a sewing guild sale so maybe $ 3.00? (most times the fabric at these sales is $1 per yard, and rarely any identity as to fiber). It kind of behaved like wool but I'm sure it is not all wool - some kind of mystery blend. At least it is an even plaid (here is a really good example of an even plaid and then an uneven plaid).

Most of my pictures of this dress are not the greatest - my photographer friend is out of town so I will have to make do with these backyard shots. In any case, the dress form photos show the color most accurately as well as the details of the dress. And my plaid matching! which I am quite happy with considering a) that damn Dior dart, 2) not the best quality fabric, 3) center front and princess seams plus slant pockets made matching the skirt challenging at best (call it impossible).







Here is the actual pattern and illustration from the Burda website.  And now for a laugh. When I was hemming the sleeves I thought wow - I just have to turn up a normal hem allowance, like 1.5 inches instead of lopping off the usual 3-4 inches and then I noticed on the pattern photo that is the sleeve is designed to finish above the wrist - do they call this bracelet length? In any case - on me it is long sleeved length due to my short arms :)  I love a dress with this type of pockets, similar to my favorite dress pattern, Butterick 5455. Also looking at this illustration, due to fit adjustments I made on the skirt portion I might have made this green (is it teal?) dress a bit too A-line.  I might go back and narrow the skirt a bit.

Here's a better look at the pocket.



And me with my hands jammed in the pockets. Not such a good look. It went from sunshine to starting to rain in a matter of 10 minutes as I did these photos - thus the dress looks a different color in every picture.



Some sewing details. I think I've seen questions around asking how to get the front neckline to stay crisp and flat - this is a bit of a tricky one with this style where the neckline has a split and small V. The two sides of the neckline front do tend to not lay flat but often poke out a bit, spoiling the look. I'm fairly satisfied with this result, and it all has to do with  - what else? - interfacing.





Sometimes I add interfacing for texture in addition to stability. This fabric is thin, almost like a lightweight flannel, so I added some fusible interfacing along the dress neckline and center front. But to stabilize the center V portion, plus the actual neckline I also added silk organza around the neckline and down the center front past where the seam starts. Silk organza is to me the miracle item for so many sewing projects in that it stabilizes without adding bulk, and created such a crisp finish to edges.

And now I will show you the inside of this dress. Slightly chagrined to do so. Because I recently read a post by Sherry of Pattern Scissors Cloth where she mentioned why she is not a fan of lining to the edge. I admire her sewing and blog greatly and concur with her points - yet I often do lining to the edge for any winter garment because I have an itch phobia, or mania? Anyway - I can't stand anything potentially itchy on my neckline so I must have lining there. You have seen my obsession with eliminating back neckline facings on coats (example here ). So lining to the edge it was for this dress. Now my miserly use of fabric scraps will be on full display. I hate to not use pieces of nice bemberg rayon lining so I save them for occasions just like this. Yes that is 4 colors of lining. I was happy to have enough of the matching green for the center front which was perfect and then the sleeves being black seemed to coordinate just fine. While I'm not a fan of novelty linings - this piece of purple was just enough for the skirt so there it is. Reduced the lining scrap bin by 4 pieces!



In the interest of full disclosure I will show this photo of the back -poorly pressed. One of these days I might just spring for a custom dress form - that doesn't tilt :)



Here's a good shot of the dress in motion - like I mentioned, starting to rain so photo-wise we take what we can get. Which in this case is a nice blink. I am the queen of blinking, anyone else look at your photos and toss out at least half due to that? Hey when you are a kid and you get contact lenses they tell you to blink blink blink - some habits stick with us.




As for fit on this pattern, it is a bit roomy but I did that on purpose. I can definitely "pinch an inch" at the waist. (check out this post for explanation on my "pinch an inch" philosophy - maybe I should trademark this :)  But this fabric has no stretch and I think it looks better with some room, plus allows you to sit comfortably and not be too wrinkled. I think a lot of people fit their dress so it looks good when standing still but life is not standing still in a blog photo pose - you need wearing ease to sit, move, put on your coat, slump at your desk, drive, whatever you are doing.

What about fitting yourself? This is a question I am often asked - and I agree, it is definitely tricky but can be done. First is the flat pattern measure - check the pattern and ADD extra where it might be needed, like side seams. I always give myself a 1" side seam which allows a lot of fitting insurance. But that often means taking it away later. More work but good for a perfect fit.

Here's a collage showing some of my fitting process. The dress is basted together, then I adjust the side seams to get the skirt/hip area to my liking. I pin it on the outside, both sides and then do a thread trace of the pins. This might sound like a lot of work but it's really not.




What I mean is since the pins are on the outside of the garment you need to transfer those indicators to the inside where you can actually stitch. then I flip the garment inside out, check out my thread trace on each side, kind of take the average of both sides and adjust the curve, and then machine baste the new seam line. It is marked here in yellow thread so you can see it. One other thing to note - no seam finishes - I never do anything on the inside of a item that is going to be lined, why bother and it just adds bulk to the seam allowance.



So that's the latest on my Burda dress sewing. I did buy another pattern - not sure why as it is awfully similar to this. I think I was trying to decide which one to go with. Perhaps I didn't choose the best one as I'm not so sure about those little darts in the princess seams. They seem so noticeable in all these photos but I don't see them when I look in the mirror. Just the lighting I hope.




As for the garden - at low ebb with nothing much going on, except tons of leaves everywhere. Since we haven't had much really cold weather the trees are hanging on to the leaves way longer than usual, meaning that raking won't be done for a good while. Oh well, it's good exercise!

By the way - despite this dress being green - really it is more of a teal, it doesn't look well with my green coat - so I will be wearing my trusty black wool coat with this one. What does winter mean to me? An opportunity to wear coats :)  If I worked in an office I would be wearing this dress often but since I don't the holidays are probably a good opportunity. The color seems Christmas-y to me.

Up next, I have stitched up quite a few not yet blogged knit tops in the last few months so a post about those, and then who knows. Wherever my mood takes me. Which might be to my Mood fabrics, ha ha.

Happy Sewing, Beth

today's garden photo, the first camellia. While is pretty enough it occupies a prime sunny spot that might be better for something else. This might be the year for a revamp and out it will go.


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