Sewn from Stash: Denim Skirt

Lately I have been trying to use up fabrics that are in my stash, so recently I noticed this remnant of dark denim that I bought at Stone Mountain Fabrics. They have a small remnant shelf and I often find something interesting there so I check first when I arrive at the store. This is a dark denim with gold sparkles, a 1 yard remnant, so initially I bought it with the thought to make a tank style dress.  But I don't need any more summer dresses so a denim skirt is way more useful in my wardrobe.

By the way - putting it here at the top of this post. I have a new online class starting next week, on Tues. July 9,  Fitted Dress Techniques. You can register at that link or see more details. I'll be talking about some bodice pattern adjustments, linings, invisible zippers, lots of ways that I sew in a different order than the pattern instructions, fitting as you sew, facings, necklines, sewing a clean finished sleeveless dress, and whatever else occurs to me as the weeks go. 

OK back to denim skirts.

I saw this pattern in a recent Burda Magazine and thought it looked familiar. So on a different quest through some old issues I noticed the twin pattern - or basically the same pattern, with different pockets. 

They are both the same style. Faced waistband, front buttons, no center back seam, 3 darts in back. The difference is in the pocket options. I liked the pockets on the 2009 version which are actually large pockets and not just decorative. So I traced that one out. But you could use the one in the 2024 version and add whatever patch pocket you wanted. 

I didn't do the sew-on front button band but instead used a foldover button band which is another option in that magazine issue. 

This skirt lends itself to one of my favorite sewing features, which is fit as you sew. (note I mentioned that above in talking about the new class. I do adjust patterns but I like to give myself some extra room and then fit as needed when the item is partially sewn together.) 

For this skirt I am about a Burda 42 in waist and 44 at hip. Since the pattern was up to size 44 I just cut out that size when I made the red version and then made some adjustments as I sewed it up. Then I noted those on my paper pattern pieces. However in the blue version I wanted it even slimmer so I took away a bit more of the ease and it still has plenty of room.  Below you can see the final stitching which is about 3/8" in from the original size 44 at the hip. 

I like this red version although it lends itself to white tops - or maybe a navy blue? anyway I will have to look around and see if I have anything else I can wear it with or perhaps make something new.  The fabric in the red skirt is a remnant that has been hanging around a while, here are the 2 posts where I originally used it. Jacket  and Jacket Express Class.  2013! I still wear that jacket and still think that is one of the very best patterns I have ever seen, in terms of instructions and construction. 

A better look at the skirts, with the photo lightened up a bit as it was too dark to see the details. I'm not so thrilled with the buttons but they were in my stash and will do for now. Perhaps some more interesting buttons to match the stitching? 

A look at the details on the red one, which shows there is no waistband, it just has a smooth waist with a facing, and 3 darts across the back. I think I will make this pattern again changing the center front button to a zipper fly but otherwise with the same details. That will save on making all those buttonholes and I am always ever so slightly fearful about a button front skirt - if you lose a button when you are out and about then what? a long jacket :)  

Hiding in the shrubbery. Not really, just wanted to show off the hydrangeas. That was the beginning and a week later they are absolutely covered in blooms. and then two more days later wilting in this heat. How hot is it?   See below.   That is under my patio cover so the hot air is trapped under there. Out in the real world it's only 106ºF today. ONLY!  And across the bay at the ocean it's about 70ºF right now. 

SF Bay area - every climate you could ever want :) 

Other classes with Hello Stitch Studio on my calendar. Check the links for details and to sign up. 

Sat. July 20      10am-3pm    Make a Knit Wrap Dress. A few spots left. 

Sun. Aug. 11   10am-3pm    Sew with Knits, Make a basic T-shirt. (2 spots left)

Up next, thinking about what to wear to Bay Area Frocktails at the end of this month. A new dress or not?

And I have some fall travel plans which might need a few capsule wardrobe additions. 

Stay cool and Happy 4th!

Beth

Last fall I pulled all the dahlia tubers from their pots and put them in the back half of the big vegetable planter. So evidently that was the right move as they are really blooming.

Finale: Denim Peak Lapel Blazer and jeans

Now that I've finished my denim outfit there is nothing more I want to do than jump on a plane and go somewhere with a suitcase full of t-shirts and denim. Somewhere I could sightsee, meet up with far flung friends and spend time in some fantastic restaurants with no thoughts of a pandemic and all the accompanying troubles. But alas that is not to be, at least not for a while so I will stay put and dream. How about you? feeling the same I imagine, and trying to enjoy the summer while it's here.

This all means that my crazy denim pantsuit will have to wait for an outing, both because I'm not really going anywhere plus it's a bit too warm to wear this. A perfect early fall outfit so it will have to wait. Hmmm....waiting. That seems to be the watchword of the day now, every day. Do you think there will be a huge pent up demand to do everything, see everyone, and just relax? I kind of think there will be. Meanwhile I'm sewing and sharing here and dreaming of something better.



There it is, both pieces worn together and I think it needs the sneakers plus a pop of pink to tone down all that speckled denim. The shades seemed necessary as well.

Here's the jacket on the dress form. The main detail on this jacket is the peak lapel, which is the pointed lapel that almost meets the collar. I had wanted to sew one of this style for ages, and found on in the Feb. 2020 Burda.



The sewing details are in my previous two posts, where you can see the jacket pattern and quite a bit about sewing the collar and the pockets.

Here's the first blog post with details on making a muslin to check out the pattern. 

Here's the second blog post with details on sewing the collar, lapels and pockets.




Alternate view taken on a different day. I think the jacket is quite wearable on it's own with solid jeans, although I rarely wear white tee shirts. They always seem like a good idea in theory but I never reach for them as I prefer to wear something colorful 99% of the time.
The jeans are the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans, which I sewed back in February when I taught one my last classes prior to the shutdown. I miss you Hello Stitch !!!!!  By the way, we are gearing up to do some more virtual classes coming up in Aug. and September so perhaps I will see you then. Any interest in a virtual class of me constructing a blazer - perhaps as a sew-along? let me know.




There you can see the contrast under collar. I am really happy with this pattern and I can't wait to make it in the fall in a solid color.




The jeans pattern I used for the print ones are a self-made pattern. I copied a RTW pair of jeans about 3 years ago and use that one a lot, particularly for stretch denim, and as it turned out they are really similar in size and proportion to the Ash jeans that I make. On my self-made pattern the legs are a bit wonky but they suffice, and I keep meaning to perfect but have never gotten around to it.

Although looking at the back I don't really see a problem, perhaps they could be narrower at the knees and lower leg but if I want that effect then I'll just make the Megan Nielsen ones. Yeah, I am a high waisted jeans girl and was so happy when that fashion pendulum swung that way. I have a really long lower torso so any jeans that are low waist are not for me, not comfortable and way too low for
wearing.






This denim came from Joann's last summer, I bought it with no plan in mind and thought I might make some kind of two piece outfit but nothing specific. It's a nice weight denim with a medium amount of stretch, perhaps 2% lycra?




I want to say that my mismatched patchwork lining is due to being in lockdown and no shopping but that would not be true, if you have seen other jackets I've made this is a standard feature of my sewing, such as this blazer.  I just can't deal with buying a matching lining for every project that results from my sewing whims, so I rummage through the lining box and see what pieces are large enough to cut out a lining. I usually make the body from one color and the sleeves from another.




Here's another look at that lovely lapel with a piece of white paper behind it one one side. The detail just disappears in this print so I must sew it again!

And a look at the inside of the jeans. I was happy to use this small remnant of a Hawaiian fabric - it complements nicely. And the inner waistband is in solid denim, a scrap from the jeans I'm wearing int the picture above. Because when I cut out this printed denim all that remained was shreds - not even enough for the inner waist. But using a solid works out well.



Ok that's all for now. I have quite a few things I've sewn recently so you can expect a stream of blogging if I can sit myself down and concentrate :)

I hope everyone is well and making it through these strange times. I really cherish my friends and family here near me but also my far flung sewing friends, seeing what everyone is up to these days is definitely heartwarming, now more than ever.

A big thank you to everyone who comments or writes to me saying that you enjoy reading and seeing my sewing  - it means so much and I appreciate you all.

And now I have to run. Although somehow this picture makes me think of that song "Walk like an Egyptian". OK now I just watched the video, that is a time capsule!!  Every style comes around, when will that hair return? hopefully not in my lifetime :)





 
Happy Sewing and stay well,
Beth

Today's garden photo, here in N. California unless we go crazy with the watering the dahlias burst into color in late spring and then look a bit crispy come August - just the time when I see the east coast gardeners and their beautiful dahlia beds. This is my kind of dahlia - bold and colorful. 

Denim Peak Lapel Blazer: Burda Feb 2020 # 102

After my recent posts I'm now sure that there are plenty of you that sew from the various pattern magazines. Thank you so much for all the kind comments about my posts and the useful info in your comments. Including the suggestion to try the Spanish sewing magazine Patrones, it has a really clever app which I immediately downloaded and bought 2 issues. They are quite a bargain at
$ 3.99 each and I've started on a dress to try them out. That blog post will be forthcoming but I have a lot of already sewn stuff to catch up with here.

And who who wants to raise their hand and say they feel kind of weird about sewing new clothes right now? Although if you are in Europe or other parts of the world perhaps things are getting a lot better and you resuming some semblance of normal life. Here in California it's a roller coaster ride of ups and downs with the corona virus, from having good stats to spikes in cases, with businesses opening up and then putting the brakes on. It is beyond annoying that we in the US can't get it together to defeat this thing and I could rant endlessly about politics but I will still recommend votesaveamerica.com and their effort to win swing states and defeat Republican office holders.

Back to sewing, just to keep myself busy during these times I have concluded that I might as well sew things that are fun or interesting or just plain pretty, whether or not I have a possibility to wear them anytime soon. If I have to stay mostly home, not be traveling or doing the usual fun summer things then I will indulge my sewing habit and try out some new, shall we say "experimental" items.
This project doesn't really qualify as experimental (more on those in future posts) but I did wrestle with the idea of another blazer jacket. However I've always wanted to try one with peak lapels, they look a bit tricky to sew and possibly a nice challenge.

Cut to the chase - I'm really happy with how it turned out although due to my fabric choice it's almost impossible to see the details! Thus the turned up lapel here so you can see the lapel detail.

I have lots of sewing details so this post will be about the pattern and checking out the fit, with final photos to follow in a subsequent post.


Here's the technical drawing from the Feb. 2020 Burda magazine. I had an idea floating in my head to try this style of lapel and had been looking around for a pattern when this arrived with perfect timing.
It is double-breasted which is not my favorite although it suits this style - perhaps it's the tradition and I decided to give it a try. Also it's a bit of a longer blazer which is nice for a change.





Those are the photos from the magazine. How I wish that all patterns and magazines would just show the garment clearly instead of people goofing around, looking like they have a headache or hiding behind their hat. In any case - the technical drawing is how I decide so I guess I can ignore the styling (which never makes me like a pattern more - usually the opposite).

I decided to make a muslin to see about the fit, and if I even liked the pattern. Also I was concerned it might be too long.



Being that I have plenty of time on my hands these days 😒 I made a very thorough test garment, with pocket welts and flaps. Some things that I actually do for all test garments are to press under the seam allowance on edges such as collar, press up the hem, etc. This is so that I can see what the proportions of the actual garment look like. I think if you leave the seam allowances and try to evaluate the fit and proportion it will look off and you can't evaluate properly. Also I wanted to see exactly how close that lapel notch was. I used size 38 for neck, shoulders, bust, graded out to about 42 at hip level and then did a little fine tuning at the back hip area.

Real me in the sewing room here. I don't know how so many sewing bloggers take reasonably good mirror selfies, I find the fact that you have to hold the phone up to take the picture immediately creates all kinds of wrinkles and drag lines in the garment.



Note that I marked the center front line on the muslin. This is SO important when you make a muslin or in fact make anything that closes in the front and want to check the fit. It's a must to match that center front line and go from there otherwise the impression of the fit is all wrong.



These photos show marking the darts and other lines on the inside of the interfaced jacket, but I use the same method when I make the muslin, I mark all the lines, darts, dots etc using this wax tracing paper. I think for the jacket proper I do one piece at a time, whereas for the muslin I sandwich the tracing paper inside the two muslin layer, with the red wax paper folded to have two surfaces of it touching the muslin fabric.




Back view of muslin, the center back was definitely sticking out a bit and the hem was a bit lower in the back which tells me that it needed shortening in the back length. Many people want to call this a swayback adjustment but my perception of it is a length adjustment. I pinched out about 3/8" wide fold so that adds up to a 3/4" length shortening, which I tapered to zero at the back princess seam,
You can see it's also a bit wide at the hem edge.



Making this muslin showed that I might have overshot the mark at the hip area and I ended up taking it in just a little bit around the hem in the princess seams. But I think I saved that for when I sewed it in the real fabric as muslin just doesn't behave the same and I like to do these small circumference adjustments in the real fabric. But that hem looks level in the back and I think the back waist shortening did the trick.

Another thing to note when I make the jacket muslin is to pin in shoulder pads. The fit and hang of the jacket really depend on them. In the final version I may use slightly different ones but the muslin is such a limp fabric as compared to most jacket fabrics that they are really needed to get the right impression of fit and shape.

Construction: this jacket starts with the pockets, as most jackets I make seem to. The front must be all prepared with the interfacing, markings etc and then the side panels sewn to the front jacket pieces.

Here's the cutting lines for the welt pocket, similar to other jackets I've made (like this one), you have to slice across the markings, just up to the dart leg, and sew the dart, which makes the upper part swing into being level with the rest of the pocket. I find the pocket works better if there is that angle that is taken up by the dart, and if you look at my post where I compare blazer patterns  I noticed that the Jasika blazer didn't have that same angle and I found it a bit troublesome to sew.



Once the dart and then the princess seams are sewn, then I can make the welt pockets.  Here's a composite of some of the steps for making the pocket flaps and welts.



I like to use lining fabric as the back side of my pocket flaps, it is less bulky and presses well.
I tend to use 1/4" wide welts and I make them quite a bit longer than the pocket, and then trim when I've pinned or stitched on. I never use any pattern piece that comes with a jacket for the welts. Making pocket welts is one of the few times I use a rotary cutter!

Finished pockets. The details just disappear on this fabric - you can be sure I will make this pattern again come autumn in a solid color. Somehow I feel the need for a burgundy or perhaps even purple blazer. I like to use scraps for the pocket linings which will never show so in this case I used up some pieces of pink bemberg.


This is a serious stash project, as fabric, linings and buttons all came from stuff I already had. Which is how things are these days during stay-at-home sewing, right?  Here's another small peek at this jacket, and in my next post I'll cover lapel sewing and lining. Plus bonus jeans! Yes, I said I would and I did,  it's full pantsuit time. Definitely a slightly wacky one but I'm pretty happy with it.





That's part one of this denim jacket, and then I have a few dress projects on the table. Plus a Random Threads post this month.

What else have I been up to? Some socializing at a safe distance - very grateful for the lovely weather and outdoor space. Plenty of gardening, and trying to incorporate some new workouts via YouTube which are actually more fun than I expected.

Stay well everyone and happy sewing,
Beth

Today's garden photo, it's a hydrangea bonanza in my front and back yard right now. Purple, pink, blue, and these lovely white ones which I think are called shooting star hydrangeas? or at least that's what I call them. I was watering in the front the other day and a woman who was walking by stopped to ask how I controlled the color of the various hydrangeas. Which made me laugh and I told her that it was survival of the fittest in my garden - the color is what it is, and plants that don't thrive are moved or sent packing. But this one is thriving - so it will stay 😀

BurdaStyle 04-2019-113: Another contender the for best ever skirt pattern

Many of us have sewn multiple versions of what I have always called the best ever skirt pattern, which was Vogue 1247 that I recently sewed in faux suede.  I think that was my fifth version of that pattern, but now I think there is a new contender for champion. Jumping right to my conclusion, I love this skirt!

This is from the April 2019 Burda Magazine, #113 which is called Skirt with Belt Bag, as you will see below. Although mine doesn't have a belt bag.



While I might like to have made the belt bag - I was down to small scraps since I found this nice denim remnant in my stash and it was JUST enough to make this skirt. I started with Burda size 42 which matches my hip measurement with a little extra wiggle room, but it turned out to be a lot of extra room, so I took in the skirt after stitching it up.




And let's take a minute to appreciate that clever detail, which has the belt going through the seaming of the front panel instead of belt loops, just on the one side. I think it add something interesting to an otherwise simple skirt.



It has a facing around the waist edge, and the belt loops are sewn into that seam. I used white topstitching (regular thread, not topstitch thread) and navy blue in the bobbin, which I think sometimes gives the white thread a chance to really show. I had the D-rings in my stash, as well as a navy blue invisible zipper so all in all this was such a rewarding project - you know the feeling when it all comes together so nicely!




Even the length was just right, I turned up the hem 1.5" and stitched it in blue.

Better look at the right side where the seam openings take the place of 2 belt loops. This fabric is a slightly stretch denim, it may be a leftover piece from these Ash jeans.






So once I sewed it up, including topstitching everywhere, but before I put on the waistband I tried it on and decided it was way too big, so I took out about 3 inches total from the two seams either side of the zipper. Which meant I had to remove the topstitching. That only took a quick minute as I had used 4.0 stitch length and it was worthwhile to get the fit right. Plus now I have adjusted the paper pattern pieces so hopefully next version will be even quicker.

Note the white t-shirt - I never wear white tops :) I know they are popular but I always feel so blah in a white t-shirt, however when going through my closet for something to pair with this I realized it looked nice with the white - so I might even wear this outfit as is, a surprise to me!

I brightened this photo so you can see the details better.



And oh yeah, a requisite for any good skirt pattern, pockets, right? This is where paying attention to the Burda instructions did pay off, as it's necessary to sew in a particular order to get the pockets topstitched and not sewed shut.




Here's the magazine view, including the belt bag. I have some almost matching but not quite the same denim and I might give it a go just for fun. It won't matter if it doesn't match exactly, probably I'm the only one that could even distinguish the fabric difference.







This skirt could be worn with a different belt. I made the belt according to the specs in the pattern and its a bit long for me, I might go back and shorten it about 4 inches.

That white t-shirt is something I bought maybe 5 years ago, I needed a white t-shirt for something. It has cotton eyelet over knit in the front and then the rest is knit. An idea I might have to copy as I have eyelet in turquoise and bright pink in my stash right now.




This might just be my new summer outfit! Now I want one in other colors.




Up next, I'm deciding between two different dress patterns. I will make both but not sure which will be first. One is Vogue 9357 . I just got some nice gingham so that might get made in that as shown on the pattern envelope. The other dress is a Burda with a ruffle hem, as I have to join in with the ruffle trend.

Sewing classes at Hello Stitch Studio : most of my summer classes are filling up. Some just have 1 or 2 spots available so sign up if you are interested. I think there is 1 spot left in the Zadie jumpsuit class - I knew that would be popular :) and I plan to make one for myself soon.

Tomorrow it's supposed to be beautiful and sunny, so it's an outside day (not a sewing room day). The garden needs something this time of year.

Happy Sewing, Beth

This yellow snapdragon survived the winter and it loved all that rain. It's now done with it's first bloom but I've trimmed it and hope for a few more flowers in the next month.