Embroidered Ash jeans

Last year I taught a jeans sewing class online and during that class I sewed up another pair of my favorite jeans pattern, which is the Ash Jeans from Megan Nielsen patterns. Since I was doing a lot of videos I wanted to make a very traditional denim jean with the contrast topstitching, and I found a perfect piece of stretch denim in my stash. Well not quite perfect, as it was a piece that I got at a fabric swap with Bay Area Sewists a few years ago. It had some fading in faint lines but it was ideal for sewing a jeans example so I went ahead and used it, thinking I would just keep them for future reference in classes.

But they came out really nicely, despite my annoyance at seeing the faint lines which turned out to be right across my thighs. In an effort to distract from that I decided to try some embroidery.This was one of those almost free projects as I got all the embroidery supplies at a sewing guild sale. In fact it was seeing an embroidery pattern that gave the idea. 

Actually I got 3 different transfer patterns that day, so I selected the motifs that went with the look I was trying to achieve. I've seen jeans with floral embroidery along the pant legs before and always thought they were nice, so it was in my mental file to do that one day. 

Fortunately for my dark denim fabric these transfers are in a yellow chalk so they definitely showed up on the jeans. Another pattern I got that day has transfers that are black (or maybe dark blue) so they would work on a different fabric but not on denim. 

I used the same pattern transfer for some of my flowers as the model is wearing on her top, the part shown that goes up by the shoulders. Some of the motifs were too large or designed to be in the center of a garment. 

I also got all the embroidery flosses, such gorgeous colors! although I did succumb to buying a few more one day. So many colors to choose from, now I want to embroider again. This might be the perfect project for me as I've always wanted to have one that I could carry around like people do with knitting but I will never learn to knit (too many previous attempts and I think it's too slow for me). 

This is a better look at the fabric, you can see that fade line running across the thighs, unfortunately I placed that there both front and back. In some light it's not really noticeable and it other light it seems very prominent. So I will just have to learn to ignore it as I think these jeans are really cute for summer wear. At least until it gets very hot - the denim is quite heavy. 

Which made embroidering the legs a challenge. I do not recommend deciding after making pants to embroider! It would be so easy to do them before sewing up - embroidering long stiff tubes of fabric was really annoying. Live and learn. 

Here's a look at the inside of the jeans. I made these just as the pattern states, so the pockets are not attached at the center front. Usually when I make them I change the pocket to a continuous waist stay type of pocket that is seamed into the center front zipper as they are in this pair.

I think this is the second piece of denim I've sewn up that had "sample" written on the inside in that yellow lettering. I think I got both pieces pre-covid at a Bay Area Sewists meetup fabric swap.

So that's the latest on my embroidered jeans - I think they will be nice for spring but definitely too heavy to wear in summer. Actually I almost never wear jeans in summer unless I go through the tunnel to the foggy/cooler side of the bay!

Up next - not sure, I have a few projects on the back burner right now and as of this afternoon I have finished the prom dress I was sewing for the daughter of a friend. It was an involved project due to the fabric but it is DONE. and I can move on to other things. Here's a tiny sneak peek. By the way I have documented a lot of the making of this dress in my Instagram stories and saved them to a highlight called Prom Dress. 

In fact that view of my backyard is scheduled to change in April, I'm having the lawn mostly removed. The planting areas will changed around in front and back, and generally moving to a much more water-wise garden. No choice here in California where we are in year 3 of drought and now it's called a mega-drought. Which sounds ominous. Anyway - more California native plants but still plenty of color. 

I'm continuing with online classes via Hello Stitch and next month I'm doing a spring dress class, 

making both the Myosotis Dress from Deer and Doe, and also the McCalls 7969 (which is still available as a free digital pattern now on the Minerva.com website, not sure how long that will be the case). Register for the class on the Hello Stitch website. 

Happy Spring Sewing,

Beth

today's garden photo, this cheerful daffodil.

Finale: Denim Peak Lapel Blazer and jeans

Now that I've finished my denim outfit there is nothing more I want to do than jump on a plane and go somewhere with a suitcase full of t-shirts and denim. Somewhere I could sightsee, meet up with far flung friends and spend time in some fantastic restaurants with no thoughts of a pandemic and all the accompanying troubles. But alas that is not to be, at least not for a while so I will stay put and dream. How about you? feeling the same I imagine, and trying to enjoy the summer while it's here.

This all means that my crazy denim pantsuit will have to wait for an outing, both because I'm not really going anywhere plus it's a bit too warm to wear this. A perfect early fall outfit so it will have to wait. Hmmm....waiting. That seems to be the watchword of the day now, every day. Do you think there will be a huge pent up demand to do everything, see everyone, and just relax? I kind of think there will be. Meanwhile I'm sewing and sharing here and dreaming of something better.



There it is, both pieces worn together and I think it needs the sneakers plus a pop of pink to tone down all that speckled denim. The shades seemed necessary as well.

Here's the jacket on the dress form. The main detail on this jacket is the peak lapel, which is the pointed lapel that almost meets the collar. I had wanted to sew one of this style for ages, and found on in the Feb. 2020 Burda.



The sewing details are in my previous two posts, where you can see the jacket pattern and quite a bit about sewing the collar and the pockets.

Here's the first blog post with details on making a muslin to check out the pattern. 

Here's the second blog post with details on sewing the collar, lapels and pockets.




Alternate view taken on a different day. I think the jacket is quite wearable on it's own with solid jeans, although I rarely wear white tee shirts. They always seem like a good idea in theory but I never reach for them as I prefer to wear something colorful 99% of the time.
The jeans are the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans, which I sewed back in February when I taught one my last classes prior to the shutdown. I miss you Hello Stitch !!!!!  By the way, we are gearing up to do some more virtual classes coming up in Aug. and September so perhaps I will see you then. Any interest in a virtual class of me constructing a blazer - perhaps as a sew-along? let me know.




There you can see the contrast under collar. I am really happy with this pattern and I can't wait to make it in the fall in a solid color.




The jeans pattern I used for the print ones are a self-made pattern. I copied a RTW pair of jeans about 3 years ago and use that one a lot, particularly for stretch denim, and as it turned out they are really similar in size and proportion to the Ash jeans that I make. On my self-made pattern the legs are a bit wonky but they suffice, and I keep meaning to perfect but have never gotten around to it.

Although looking at the back I don't really see a problem, perhaps they could be narrower at the knees and lower leg but if I want that effect then I'll just make the Megan Nielsen ones. Yeah, I am a high waisted jeans girl and was so happy when that fashion pendulum swung that way. I have a really long lower torso so any jeans that are low waist are not for me, not comfortable and way too low for
wearing.






This denim came from Joann's last summer, I bought it with no plan in mind and thought I might make some kind of two piece outfit but nothing specific. It's a nice weight denim with a medium amount of stretch, perhaps 2% lycra?




I want to say that my mismatched patchwork lining is due to being in lockdown and no shopping but that would not be true, if you have seen other jackets I've made this is a standard feature of my sewing, such as this blazer.  I just can't deal with buying a matching lining for every project that results from my sewing whims, so I rummage through the lining box and see what pieces are large enough to cut out a lining. I usually make the body from one color and the sleeves from another.




Here's another look at that lovely lapel with a piece of white paper behind it one one side. The detail just disappears in this print so I must sew it again!

And a look at the inside of the jeans. I was happy to use this small remnant of a Hawaiian fabric - it complements nicely. And the inner waistband is in solid denim, a scrap from the jeans I'm wearing int the picture above. Because when I cut out this printed denim all that remained was shreds - not even enough for the inner waist. But using a solid works out well.



Ok that's all for now. I have quite a few things I've sewn recently so you can expect a stream of blogging if I can sit myself down and concentrate :)

I hope everyone is well and making it through these strange times. I really cherish my friends and family here near me but also my far flung sewing friends, seeing what everyone is up to these days is definitely heartwarming, now more than ever.

A big thank you to everyone who comments or writes to me saying that you enjoy reading and seeing my sewing  - it means so much and I appreciate you all.

And now I have to run. Although somehow this picture makes me think of that song "Walk like an Egyptian". OK now I just watched the video, that is a time capsule!!  Every style comes around, when will that hair return? hopefully not in my lifetime :)





 
Happy Sewing and stay well,
Beth

Today's garden photo, here in N. California unless we go crazy with the watering the dahlias burst into color in late spring and then look a bit crispy come August - just the time when I see the east coast gardeners and their beautiful dahlia beds. This is my kind of dahlia - bold and colorful. 

Ash Jeans again: 3rd pair in sparkly denim

This sewing project was one of those "I don't really need it but why not?" items where you are in a fabric store and see something slightly ridiculous and yet buy it anyway. For me it was this sparkly denim which I bought at Joann's one day, as it had a nice weight and suitable stretch, plus a subtle silver shimmer. Or can jeans that sparkle be considered subtle? Since you can't really see the shimmer in photos I will say yes.



I cut them out fully intending to make the cropped wide leg version on the pattern envelope, which is one of the 4 options on the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans. (the last view shown in the diagrams).



However I am tempted to say, in honor of May the 4th (Star Wars day) that THESE are not the wide leg jeans you are looking for. If you get it, you get it...and on a slightly meandering note, I saw the original movie as it opened that first summer in the theater. Try to imagine how thrilling that movie was before it was everywhere in our culture. It had everything, adventure, romance, good vs. evil, humor, inspiration and young Harrison Ford! And we had to wait 3 years! for each sequel to find out what happened next. I still love that original trilogy (and have never seen any of the subsequent ones :)

Back to sewing, I did cut these out using the pattern pieces for the wide leg version. And basted them together for a try-on. And decided noooooooooo. Everyone has their pet peeve about how things look on themselves, for me it is things that make me look extra short in the bottom half. As I'm not tall to begin with, and kind of short in the leg half, I don't need clothes that make my bum look even closer to the ground.
So I took out my pattern pieces from the slim leg Ash jeans and overlaid them on the legs and recut them to that shape. Below is the back pattern piece, you can see how much narrower the slim leg is. And not just in the outside seam, but also starting at the inner thigh and continuing down to the ankle.
I didn't get a photo that showed the whole pattern piece but you get the idea.



The yokes were already sewn on the backs and the pockets and zipper were all done in the front, so it was a quick bit of work to unbaste and then restitch after I had trimmed them down to the slim leg.



Not the best looking photo but I wanted you to see how high these jeans come up on me. I did raise the waist all the way around 1/2" since I'm long in the rise. I bought the Dawn jeans pattern which is described as a high-rise jean so I'll be interested to see how the rise is on that.




The whole time I was sewing these I thought the denim was black with a bit of sparkle, and I used black thread for both construction and topstitching.

I like the pockets to continue all across the center front of the jeans, I think some call this a waist stay, or I in RTW jeans I've seen it called tummy control. Whatever it is I think it keeps the front from stretching out, and also it keeps the pocket bags from creeping out which drives me crazy.

I'll be showing how to do this in my Jeans class at Hello Stitch Studio which is coming up in June, it's two Saturdays June 1 and June 8. I think this Ash jeans pattern is so good, the fit and shaping are really nice. As I mentioned before I made the first pair back in January and I used my hip measurement to choose the size. I took them in at the waist but the rest of the jeans are according to the pattern and I really am happy with the fit. This is probably the most suitable denim I've used, as the other two versions were sewn with denim I got at fabric swaps and a little skimpy on the stretch amount although they worked out ok.



You can see that I rummaged around in my scrap box for some cottons to use as the pocket bags and the waistband inside. I don't really get too worked up about the insides and don't care if they match. They don't show! use up scraps!  I put plain woven cotton for the inside waistband instead of the denim as I felt it was the tiniest bit rough and also got quite hot when I ironed it, possibly due to the metallic component. So I didn't want that touching my skin around the waist. Also using a non-stretch for the waistband seems to work well for me.

And here's how I realized these jeans were actually blue and not black.



I put them on with this silk top which is a black/white/green print. And took some photos. Staring at the pictures it was obvious that the denim was blue. Oh well. And the silver loafers are maybe too much with the sparkle jeans....Funny how you see things in photos that you don't notice in the mirror.

Close up view and the sparkles are evident?  Also looks like black denim, right? This is in my super bright in the daytime sewing room.






So that's the latest on my Ash jeans. I probably have about 10 pairs of blue denim RTW jeans in my closet, various other colors also and now 3 pairs of Ash jeans. I fully intend to make the Dawn jeans and them it's time to make some shorts maybe? No more jeans for a while. Plus once our summer heat kicks in I rarely even put ON jeans until sometimes mid-Sept or even later.

For May I have a bit of a break in my schedule of teaching classes, as this month has a lot of weekend holidays and other stuff on the calendar so we don't have as many classes. Although we just did a weekday class last Thursday and it sold out immediately so based on that we have a couple more weekday classes now scheduled (Wrap dress and Lander pants classes).

Instead of listing my upcoming classes, here's a screen grab to show you what's on the calendar for June - Aug. There are just a couple of spots remaining in the Fitting class on June 22 and we won't have another scheduled until the fall so if you are interested jump on that. Here's the link to the class page.

Register or see more information for my 
Garment Sewing Classes at Hello Stitch Studio



Did you see what class is there in the last image? Yes, the Zadie jumpsuit! I'm very excited to make that, I just got the pattern and will be sewing up a sample in the next month or so. And I didn't think it would work on a height-challenged person :) but I ran into Kristin at the Stone Mountain Fabrics 38th Anniversary party on Friday night.



Kristin, who I met in a few of my classes, said her Zadie was hot off the sewing machine, just finished the night before. It looks so cute on her! so now I'm ready to try one for myself. It looks like
we are the only ones there but the place was packed with so many stitchers - a really fun event and great to see everyone. The sewing community in the bay area is really lively!

And looking ahead to August and September, check this out. I'm doing another beginner series based around the new Wiksten dress pattern (which I believe is going to be back in stock in the next month or so) and then my Jacket Weekend workshop is official. The class registration is live on the Hello Stitch Website.

The jacket workshop will be a 3-day class (afternoon on Friday and then Sat/Sun). The new Jasika Blazer pattern is a good option but if you already have a jacket or coat pattern that you want to do that's fine with me. I will be showing a lot of techniques and demonstrations on how I do things, including what parts of the instructions I ignore and go my own way :) all my thoughts on interfacings and a faster way to make the lining. Plus whatever else I think of in the next few months. While this class isn't until Sept. we have had registrations the day it was listed so I think we will have a great group. If you have any questions on this please email me. 

That's the latest on my Ash jeans, now onward to some summer dresses. I have a couple of things picked out from the last two Burdas and I need to get going on those. 

Happy Spring Sewing, Beth

Today's garden photo, I was so pleased with these bicolor tulips that I planted in the fall and promptly forgot were there. They've finished blooming now but the colors were so pretty. 

Ash jeans from Megan Nielsen Patterns and Quilted Vest McCalls 7695

The last few weeks I've been sewing quite a mix of different items. I've sewn some holiday-wearable items for myself, such as the sparkly knit top in my previous post. I have a few things for Heather in the works, including her wool blazer. By the way, for that jacket I'm trying to post daily various aspects of that jacket construction in my Instagram Stories, but also saving a lot of photos with captions and info in my Highlights there - so they will be viewable in the future.
That means the third category of my recent sewing is items I'm making in anticipation of an upcoming class at Hello Stitch Studio. Later in January we're doing a weekend jeans making class (Jan 26-27) so I've sewn up a couple of pairs. At the end of February we have a quilted jacket class scheduled - which will be great for the Tamarack jacket pattern or any another quilted jacket/vest pattern.

Plus worn together they make the perfect weekend wardrobe choice :)  I decided to start out my quilting with a vest, so this is McCalls 7695. It is similar to the Grainline Tamarack jacket but has a zipper closure and also the vest option. It has a collar but it would be quite easy to add a collar to the Grainline jacket and I will cover that in the class.

Those are the Megan Nielsen Ash jeans in the slim version. They have 4 options, skinny, slim, wide leg and bootcut.

Vest details first.



I had this piece of plaid wool which wasn't enough to make much of anything, perhaps a skirt but it was just the right amount for this vest. The intention was to cut it a bit longer but late night cutting had me follow the pattern markings, and I'm ok with the length. In fact since it's shorter I can wear it under other coats. Now is the time that I will confess I have an inexplicable fear of separating zippers. Well not a fear exactly - an aversion. I don't like to wear things that have them and I really don't like sewing them. So I decided to go with plaid, ha ha, because I want extra stress of matching.
Actually thought it wasn't bad at all. I did have to shorten this zipper which mean some work with a pliers to crush the plastic teeth so they would come off but it was a good way to get out some aggression.

The fact that I chose this plaid means that the quilting lines don't really show, you can barely see them, stitched also in a rose pink. I used a very thin cotton batting, I think it's called Warm and Natural Cotton (whatever was on sale at joann's that day) so it was easy to sew but didn't add a lot of thickness.



The pattern has patch pockets and a lot of bias binding. It looks ok but a little too much to my eye, and I didn't like the pockets outlined in the bias. Plus more plaid matching, ugh. So I decided to do some welt pocket with bias,.



So they're not as good for putting your hands in your pockets but I like the way the look. The trick to doing bias welt pockets is to stretch the fabric before making the welt so that the edge doesn't sag or stretch once it is sewn.



I bagged the lining all around the upper edge, the hem and the armholes, leaving the side seams open, so I could trim all the seams and then pull it through. Ok now I see one benefit of a separating zipper :).
Then I stitched up the side seams of the wool and about an inch of the lining, and then closed up the lining side seams by hand stitching. I did all the quilting only on the wool so the lining isn't quilted. I kind of looked at the pattern instructions and it seemed that's how they are doing it in the McCalls pattern. The multi color linings is me using up some scraps of jewel tone lining fabrics, yay for using up scraps!! and then the collar facing is a thick satin lining which I selected because it felt nice and the color was perfect. I did put batting on the wool on the collar, and then some interfacing on the satin facing so it would have structure and stand up.






I believe I made a size 12 (my usual size in McCalls/Vogue etc) and it's roomy - in a good way so it can be worn over a sweater layer. The one change I did make was to do the swayback alteration which is marked on the pattern. I prefer to call this the "shortening the back length" adjustment but in this case I guess it did give a bit of shaping there. If you can picture it with more length then the back would have floated out more at the waist. It's a boxy style but intentionally so.  I didn't realize until after that I took only photographs with it zipped all the way up, which is not really the way I will probably wear it. So you will have to use your imagination on that.

Onto the Ash Jeans.



I've mostly steered away from sewing jeans as I already have so many pairs, I have no trouble fitting into ready-to-wear jeans and while I wear them all the time in fall and winter once the weather warms up they are not really my go-to item. So for convenience sake and in the interest of devoting my sewing time to things that interest me more (jackets and summer dresses) I never really got all that interested. However this pattern intrigued me and also we wanted to schedule another jeans class at the studio - so I gave it a try. I've made 2 pairs so far and had great success with this pattern so I think it's a winner. Plus it has the various leg styles in the pattern, with different pattern pieces for each style so you can play around with size on one style and still have the other pattern pieces not touched. The description says "comfortable rise" which I think is kind of a mid or high rise on most people, depending on your body shape. I have a very long rise and the first pair I made fit quite well, the waistband landed at just the right spot in the front, although they did need more length over my backside. Which I kind of figured going into the project but I wanted to sew them exactly as designed to see the result.

I sewed a Size 32 which is for a person with Waist 32" and Hip 42" which is almost spot on for me. The finished garment measure says it is 40.5" for Hip and since they are stretch jeans that worked out perfectly.
Here's a couple of pictures of the first pair I sewed (which are on display over at the studio).  I look mildly stunned but I had just finished these and walked outside at 4pm, set up the timer on my camera and clicked. Not bad for zero fit adjustments. The denim was at the minimum of the stretch requirement which actually I think works well as it has a "hold you in" effect. It was something I got at a Bay Area Sewists Fabric swap. Which you will see is a theme of my jeans sewing to this point :)



Same jeans, different day, and a slightly goofy pair of photos I extracted from a dark grey background, so the jeans are more visible. But maybe not much of an improvement. In any case the fit worked out well. They are a bit short at the back waist, pull down somewhat especially for sitting which makes me feel like I needed about 1 inch more length at the back rise.



Back to the second pair, I think if you make more than one pair with different denims you can really see how the fit changes just by changing the fabric. The second pair feels slightly more tight even though this denim I thought had more stretch, and I lengthened the rise both front and back 1/2" and then another 1/2' on the back.



When it comes to pants, I have a lot of drag lines on one side due to a spinal curve and and a notably lower left side. Not noticeable in dresses, it's an issue from my hip bones downwards. Anyway, all clothes have some lines when you are wearing them, moving, walking etc since hopefully none of us stand still like mannequins. So I don't let it bother me and just hem each leg as needed.

That denim is very comfy and has a nice weight. For some reason it doesn't seem like a winter wear denim - maybe because of the tones of white threads in the blue. I like dark solid denim for winter jeans. So I will see how these work in the spring with t-shirts.

The other change I made is to do a front pocket stay. The pattern is designed with a pocket that folds back and just creates the pocket but I like jeans where the cotton pocket lining continues all the way to the center front. It keeps the pocket flat against the body.



I am not the neatest topstitcher, that's for sure. And topstitch designs don't give me a thrill - to each her own as regards to sewing details as I know a lot of people making jeans really enjoy all the stitching details (now a lovely welt pocket, that is a different story).

Here's the side view and you can see the extra height or length that I added in the back, which is taken up by my long backside.





I have to buy some jeans buttons over at Stone Mountain so until I get over there to buy some I put a hook plus a button on the outside.

As mentioned - not really pockets in this vest for putting your hands in. But will work for carrying my keys when on the go. I'm glad I went back to the store for the pink zipper - the color makes me smile.



So that's the latest on my jeans sewing, and now I will return to the other stuff in my sewing queue. Such as a number of dreamy things in my latest Burda magazines, a new Vogue dress pattern I don't need but want to make, and something for Frocktails later this Feb. Today I'm working on the wool blazer and it's a good day to be inside, blustery rain and so cold. OK cold for us Californians, down to the 30's ℉ at night here.

As mentioned above, lots of classes on the schedule at Hello Stitch, some of which are filling up fast or are already sold out. I am constantly delighted at the great people who come to my classes, mostly women but a few men, and people who are so interesting! Interesting to me and to one another, the discussions as we spend the day sewing and learning are part of the pleasure of doing the classes. Don't be shy, join in!

Happy New Year Sewing,  Beth

today's garden photo - under my friend Alice's orange tree which is absolutely covered with fruit. Her tree is a navel orange variety and they all seem to ripen at once. My orange tree is a Valencia, so the fruit stays on the tree practically year round. But my tree is not in a very photogenic spot. There are so many fruit trees in the neighborhood as the climate is just right for plums, figs, and citrus. And rose pruning might be next week - when we have a dry day I should get out of the sewing room and into the garden.