Thursday, April 14, 2022

Vintage Vogue blazer in purple/black wool

It has frequently occurred, since I began blogging my sewing, that I make something way too wintery just as spring arrives with full force here in N. California. The daffodils are just about finished, the volunteer sunflowers in my yard have shown up with their golden sunny blooms and I sewed this jacket that is more suitable for a chilly December.  So I will post it here and then cram it in the recesses of my overflowing coat closet to hopefully be worn next fall. 

purple blazer on form

Note that black is so tricky to photograph so I have lightened all these pictures, both the indoor and outdoor ones so that the details can be seen. 
I bought this piece of wool tweed at a guild sale, it had a tag on stating it was 2 yards and from Mood Fabrics. I do recall seeing it on their website and being almost tempted. So it was meant to be mine anyway:) As for the pattern, this is a winner and I am planning to make it again in a lightweight summer fabric. It's a Vogue pattern from the '80's, not sure of the exact date. Vogue 1193.

Vogue 1193 Pattern envelope

This is a case where the illustration would lead you to believe that it calls for giant shoulder pads but that was not the case at all. I think they just succumbed to the trend of the day when creating the pattern envelope art. It calls for 1/2" shoulder pads which is not much different from those in current patterns. I will say that this fabric is much more like a coating weight and probably not the best choice for a blazer jacket, the collar is a bit bulky and doesn't lay as flat as I would like. 

purple blazer1

When I was making it I rummaged around in my stash as I thought I had some remnants of black velveteen which would have been nice for the upper collar, both to reduce the thickness and also to diminish the itch factor. I didn't find it and so continued on with the regular fabric. Now that it's finished I realize I could have used a remnant of black wool crepe to achieve the same end. The collar is so thick that it bugs me and I think next fall I will take it apart and redo the collar, but that is a project for another day!

blazer on form2

or maybe not :)  as look at how I have trimmed and graded all the seams. Probably not very fun to take apart. 

pressing jacket

This fabric was so thick and I thought the lapel would not lay flat so I used a method that I employ occasionally, which is to cut the interfacing on the lapel fold line. This allows the lapel to turn back at the spot where it needs to. You can see that my twill tape started out a bit too wide, I think I ordered it online and it turned out to be about 1/2" wide which is more than I wanted so I just trim it with a pinking shears. 

blazer roll line

Let's talk pockets. Ordinarily I'm not a fan of patch pockets, I just love a nice welt pocket but that was nearly impossible in this fabric and the pattern had the option of patch pockets. After I made the other vintage Vogue pattern last winter, (blog post here on that one where I used traditional tailoring methods, pad stitching and all. That jacket got three blog posts if you want to read all the details.)

purple jacket pocket

Here's the patch pocket in progress. How much do I love these old Vogue single size patterns? A LOT! And I just noticed on the pattern piece that it shows the size listed as size 12 but below that it says Femmes-40 which must be the French size, and then Damen - 38 so that is the German size, which corresponds exactly to the size I sew in Burda patterns. Never noticed that before. 
Anyway, this patch pocket is sewn around all the edges and then turned right side out, finishing it up with a little hand stitching at the bottom edge to enclose. 
And then I  hand stitched it to the jacket front, which was easy peasy in this fabric as the stitches would never show. 

tailors tacks in orange

I leave all my thread tailor's tacks in a garment until I get just about finished. It's one of those tasks I find enjoyable, plucking out the various thread markings.  Although it never fails that when I go to photograph something I find a rogue thread still embedded in a seam somewhere. 

blazer back on form
I think this pattern had a center back vent at the hem but I omitted it because in this thick fabric it would probably not lay flat. Also I wanted to get the fit in the hip area just right. I'm thinking of making this again in a lightweight summer fabric for a much more casual version. 
Let's take a minute to admire a feature that I very much appreciate in these older Vogue patterns, the collar roll line. And an under collar that is cut on the bias. What is up with some newer patterns, with the under collar cut on the fold, not bias. I do not like! 

pattern pieces Vogue 1193

purple blazer3

Too much purple? I think maybe.  I made this top a while ago from a remaining piece of hammered silk I had bought from Fashion Fabrics club and I'm not really liking it, and wish I had chosen a different pattern. Oh well. Next fall I will look for a fabric to make a shirt that goes with this jacket. 

Purple blazer lining

And yes, I did sew the lining in by hand, I just find it faster to do that rather than struggle with sewing it in by machine, I think it gives much more control. 

So that's the latest on my unseasonably winter sewing. Actually we went from wearing shorts last week to turtlenecks this week as it got very chilly - that's March/April for you in the bay area. But I have a few tomato plants in pots and the dahlias are sprouting so spring is here. My back yard is looking very scruffy these days and starting next month it will get a big makeover. All the sprinklers and drip irrigation gave up last summer so it's time for a refresh. A water conserving refresh - with more planting beds and less lawn. 

Vogue purple blazer

Happy spring sewing,

Today's garden photo, the big bag of Costco daffodils did not disappoint. You can see that if you buy over 100 daffodils you start to stuff them in the ground wherever you can. And they bloomed very well. Plus I read they repel gophers. A win! I think I will buy another bag next year and try to put them everywhere.