Rainbow stripe knit dress: Lekala pattern and Girl Charlee fabric

Hello there. Or should I say Aloha? Another summer knit that made it into my suitcase for vacation.



And a rainy overcast day which is not good for a beach day but works out for taking some photos. Speaking of the weather - this has been the hottest temps I have ever experienced in Hawaii. Global warming is real, people!

At least that's what the newscasters are talking about here. Wow, it was hot and no trade winds which is out of the ordinary. Plus 3 hurricanes passing by the islands with plenty of moisture and humidity. Coming from drought stricken California it was such a change. And everything is so green. I have forgotten what that looks like! Plenty of hurricane warnings but fortunately nice weather most days so all was good. And evening thunderstorms with lots of lightening. Dramatic. Lightening storms are actually quite rare in my home state so a bit exciting for us although not notable for many of you.

Back to sewing - I posted a sneak peak of this dress on Instagram during the #sewphotohop for Day 3: Colorful and a few people loved the fabric, even knowing that it was from Girl Charlee. (You all know your fabrics!).

As for the pattern, it is a Lekala pattern #4271. With a few adjustments  - of course. I was looking at my fabric and decided I wanted an easy pull over the head dress with a racerback. And didn't have any pattern in my file that matched that description. So instant download to the rescue. Using my measurements I ordered from Lekala and the fit was quite good. I really didn't make any changes at all. What I think works out really well with the Lekala and Bootstrap patterns is that you do give your height, so the proportions tend to be nearer to what I want. For example, the darts were in the right place, and the waist was also. Typically since I am shorter than the standard fit I have to adjust things in the vertical dimension but didn't here. Also that was good since I was working with a stripe and I didn't want to mess up the pattern matching.





Dress on form. In retrospect I wish I had changed the angle of the strap portion, it is just a bit too much like a tank top in the front, and I would have preferred a more cut in shoulder look. But oh well, not a big deal.





Another change you can see in the back view on the technical drawing is that the center back portion between the shoulder blades was very narrow, to my eye a bit out of proportion so I did widen it quite a bit, maybe 1 inch on either side of the center? I just drew it with a pencil until I liked the shape and then folded the pattern piece to mirror on the other side.
This fabric is quite thin - way too thin for dress so I decided to line it with another light weight solid knit.
So I cut out the lining first, and marked the waist casing there. By using a lining I could create the casing for the elastic between the outer and inner layers which makes a nice finish. For some reason sewing a casing is one of those sewing tasks that I really dislike so I often try to figure out ways to make casings in another way.



You can see all my tailors tacks for the casing on the lining pieces. Then I put the lining pieces on the fabric and that way could match my stripes perfectly. A late night smart idea - instead of my usual late night stupid mistakes. Don't you always make sewing mistakes at night? I frequently have a spidey sense of "I should stop now" and more often than not if I don't - the big mistake happens. I should have a big loud buzzer that says "Step away from the scissors" when I have been sewing at night for more than a few hours. Hmm, invention idea there.

Onward - inside shot. Everyone always comments that they like to see insides of garments. I'm planning to discuss that next time I do a Random Threads post. Hint - not that important. at least to me.

Anyway - see the darts in the lining. The pattern has darts and I sewed them in the stripe fabric, they were fine but they just made the stripes do something really weird across the bust. Hated them.



So I took them out. And used my technique of gathering that section where the dart would have been. On my size pattern the difference between front and back is about 1.25 inches - so that is quite an easy amount to gather and ease onto the back. The stripes here make it more noticeable but since I don't walk around with my arms held over my head it is perfectly acceptable :)  And then the stripes match from the middle of that seam the rest of the way down.



Back view on me. Whew horizontal stripes across my backside. Not sure it is the best look but oh well I love the rainbow stripes (for wearing in the land of rainbows - so many in Hawaii, lots of double ones as well.)  I am quite obsesses with this blouson style lately, kind of a change of silhouette for me. I always feel like I need to try different shapes but rarely do. Contemplating something with a drop waist. We shall see......



The only other thing to mention on this dress is related to the thin fabric issue. I got it all turned and under stitched to create a crisp neckline and then saw that dominant purple stripe showing up there in the seam allowance. Not really able to trim it as I cleverly (ha ha ironic use of clever) ironed some stitch witchery in there so that the lining would stay nice and flat before I topstitched. So it is sealed in there. Probably a case of being too picky for a silly beachy little knit dress but there you go. I notice stuff. However I do love the colors.



And now a combination Garden photo and dress photo. West coasters - feast your eyes on all that green.



Happy sewing. Even though I am home I have one or two more vacation items to show and then I have to think about fall sewing. Wait, do I have to?  Our climate is such that we jump straight into our relatively mild winter. And I don't even want to think about sewing with wool yet. It's supposed to be 104˚C here at my house tomorrow. Whew!

Happy sewing, Beth

Plumerias from that tree next to me.

Still Summer here: V1247 skirt in white plus Lekala top

What is the most summery item? To me it is always something white. White shorts, a white eyelet dress, a crisp white top. I love white cotton clothes but haven't made anything in a while but this top just needed a white skirt. The top is a Lekala pattern I made earlier this year, This might be my best fitting t-shirt pattern. Interesting, huh? I need to try more of their tops.



I came across a piece of white poplin in my remnant stash which was forgotten, but I must have saved it knowing it could be made into something. What else, the best skirt pattern ever? Vogue 1247. This is my third one (version one and version two) and I have an idea for a really great modification when the weather changes.
Recognize the fabric in this top? When I made another of my all-time favorite patterns (Vogue 1191 twist front dress) some substantial but oddly shaped bits remained, and I loved this fabric so much I couldn't throw these scraps away. In the back of my mind I was thinking I could make some kind of mixed fabric knit top - but probably not as that would entail finding something that actually coordinated. So another item that was scrunched away in the knit fabrics bin. I looked at it periodically when I was rummaging for something and the most recent time I had a brainwave - try the Lekala top. Sleeveless! With complete disregard for orientation. So some parts are cut lengthwise and some crosswise but it makes no difference really, with this 4-way stretch rayon knit.  When I ordered this it also came in a turquoise color version - so that is my fabric "one that got away" in the last few years. Always wished I had ordered that colorway as well. Because I need more turquoise items right, HAH.



After I finished this skirt I found another white remnant which was a bit thicker and I am wishing I had used that instead. This one is fine - the only problem is that the pockets show through a LOT. I cut them down to only about 2 inches deep, which is fine but they still show a bit and look a little weird. I lined the skirt in a lightweight cotton. And it was just a teensy bit too short for my liking so I looked and looked for something I could edge the bottom to add a bit of length. White is really difficult to match. Or things just looked strange, too thin, or too stiff (tried ribbon, that was a fail). I took a tiny scrap of the white poplin to the store and found this trim that matched the white perfectly. Just enough to add an inch.



Here's a look at the ghostly pockets and the waistband treatment. In fact the treatment is to leave off the waistband as I did on my red wool crepe version # 2 of this pattern.


 I might have put a tiny strip of interfacing on the lining, and then just sew the lining as if it is a facing. Ta daa, a lined skirt. I find these waistband-less skirts sooooo comfy to wear and on me they stay in the right place, whereas a waistband skirt seems to migrate upwards. Probably my error in fitting.

The camera was misbehaving when all my vacation pics were taken, the all seem a bit overexposed. Or it was autofocusing on the greenery and not my sewing stuff.  See...needed that extra length, just looks OK not too mini.


The calendar says Fall but around here, i.e. here in my part of N. California it is still summer. Other than getting dark early but way too soon to put away the sleeveless tees and white skirts. Yeah for that!
And I hate to tell you but I still have a couple more summer items not yet blogged - though they are patterns that can apply for other seasons so there is that.

Based on lots of comments I am planning to do a post on good patterns for holiday dresses - patterns I think are interesting and easily adjusted for fit. Or that fit certain body types.

Just curious - has anyone taken any of the BurdaStyle webinars?  they have a lot and I am very curious about them, format, content etc. Interesting that I have not seen any reviews or feedback on sewing blogs (at least on the blogs I read - which is a lot!)

I have not purchased any supplies or fabric via the Craftsy website but noticed this one the other day:
Dawn to Dusk Knit Top Kit which is on sale now for $ 19.99  It includes one of my favorite knit top patterns New Look 6150, and 2 yards of rayon spandex blend with a choice of colors. Quite a good deal and particularly for those who mentioned in the comments on my pattern costs post that they couldn't get New Look patterns. Although with my sewing students last week I learned a lot about paying duty on items ordered from the US. Whew! it adds up.
By the way - I am not a Craftsy affiliate or get anything for mentioning. I just thought it was a good deal.  Here is the pattern and the tops that I made with it.



Yesterday I was out walking and saw Halloween decorations on some houses. It is not even October yet (or wasn't yesterday).  EEK!

Happy (still summer) sewing, Beth

Lekala T-shirt pattern 4284

There is a lot of coincidence and overlap in the sewing world, particularly when we are all shopping for fabrics on the same websites or stalking the newly released patterns. This week I saw my friend Shams write about her experiences with Lekala patterns, a Russian-based pattern company that creates an email pattern based on your specific measurements. Shams didn't have success with the jacket pattern she chose however she did use a pants pattern previously and it worked for her.

I have made one other Lekala pattern (a dress, blogged here) which I thought was very good and last month I saw a review of this top so decided to give them a try again.  They have a lot of very cute tops plus printing a pdf pattern for a top is fairly minimal so it's not too bothersome. So I happened to finish sewing this just a few days before I saw Shams' post.

Not very exciting, but a very nice fit in the shoulders and neckline, which is the number one place I have to alter. Most patterns are too big for me there.   Scroll down, because as they say on TV, "But wait, there's more!"

Kind of cute, huh?  Do you recognize this fabric? It is what I used for my shingle dress, Vogue 8904.  A cotton/spandex knit jersey from Girl Charlee. Great for t-shirt testing.  By the way, the skirt is Simplicity 2152, blogged here, although it was an a-line style and one day I thought it was sticking out a bit too wing-y on the side seams so I made it much more of a straight style. Now I think it is much better plus it has great pockets. Also I removed the lining because it was too hot in the summer, and then I resewed it back in this winter so I could wear tights. And now it is out again :) Next winter I just have to remember where I stash it!
Eek, who likes to look at their backside? not me. Not the back of my head, as I have a crazy cowlick which normally makes the back of my hair resemble a 5 year old boy who just awoke from a nap. Serious stick-out parts. And yet I have short hair...Not the most distressing dilemma in the world but it is the goofy little things that can really bug, right?

This pattern is Lekala 4284 which they call "Blouson with Decorative Back" and it does call for a knit. Notice those darts? That was the only change I made, eliminated the darts by easing that section into the back. Which worked out fine. This stripe is optical illusion-y enough without another seam in that area.

So all in all, I am quite happy with the fit. In her post Shams discusses the size options she chose and how they worked out. I input only the basic measurements (bust, underbust, waist and hip) and did not add any specs on the 3rd section (adjustments where you can specify things like shoulder width, bust length etc) I didn't use any of those other specs which I made the dress either. I am just happy that I can start with a pattern where the circumference is right from the beginning. For Vogue or other patterns I usually start with a size 12, and possible narrow the neckline and then widen a the hip. 

The price for Lekala can't be beat, around $ 2.50 and you can use PayPal which I like for small purchases. I ordered the pattern on a Saturday afternoon and it was in my email in less than 2 hours. Amazing for a customized pattern. 

This top is a bit big at the hip but that is an easy adjustment and I don't like things to be too form fitting so it is fine with me. 

This one really is a test version, I think in a more interesting fabric, or a two-color version it would be really cute. The opening in the back hits at just the right place, no straps showing. 

This is going in the repeat file, there will be another one. The Girl Charlee website is calling to me (always!)

One more for the road.  This is my TGIF pose.  Although the camera did strange things here so kind of washed out. How do you like my new coral clogs, which I ordered in the midst of winter after a who knows why late-night search session on Ebay looking for clog sandals. And these were $ 30 instead of the usual $ 130 for Troentorps, they are a bit wonky, the wood color and strap width are not matching exactly but who will notice?
The hydrangea in the corner is the first to bloom, next to the pathetic grape that has never produced anything but leaves. However I have decided it is very pretty so it is staying for now.

Happy end of May sewing,  Beth

Happy New Year with a Lekala Dress Pattern

Fit...the final frontier.  You buy a new pattern, bring it home. Stare at the envelope, that technical drawing taunting you with its many pattern pieces all begging to be sewn. But before you get to the fun part, the actual stitching, you have to consider the fit. No chance to stomp on that pedal, hear the soothing roar of the machine until you do some measuring, slicing, pivoting, math calculations, a few little swear words, and then cross your fingers and hope for success.  What, you don't do that?  You open the envelope, pick a size, cut it out and then pray it will button or zip or be able to pull it over your head?

True confession, I actually like fitting and feel comfortable with most challenges, but that is after many classes, and years of practice. If I were learning to sew today I would not think it is fun, although there are so many resources for learning and I recommend them all, from DVD's and blog posts to high-level classes.

Have you looked at the Lekala patterns website?  I have always been intrigued by this pattern company and periodically scanned through their selection, noting a few dresses I might like. Recently I was contacted by Natalia of Lekala Patterns who asked me if I would give their patterns a try and then blog about them. Their website had been revamped since the last time I had looked at it, with a variety of language options and payment methods. I chose a dress and here is the result.

But I have buried the headline on this one - It Fit ! Repeat, It Fit Perfectly!  With no adjustments. For Lekala patterns you provide your measurements (bust, underbust, waist, hip and height) and then they provide a PDF pattern custom sized to your measurements.  I was a bit skeptical but figured it was worth a try.  Taping together printer pages is not my idea of fun, however I will happily use a roll of tape and reams of paper if I don't have to mess around fit adjustments. 

I taped the printer pages together and then traced out the pattern pieces on tracing paper, adding seam allowances which are not included.  Once I did that I gave some thought to doing some verifying with the tape measure but decided against that because the back pattern pieces looked fine (at this point I can eyeball my size) and I also thought it was a good test of this pattern company to sew it up just as I received it to see how the custom sizing worked out. 

           
I did make a muslin, just for the main pieces, front and back and omitting the sleeves and collar. Mostly because I am not such a whiz with the pattern tracing (remember - no Burda or other magazine patterns for me)  and wanted to make sure I did it right before I cut into my nice fabric. This fabric is a ponte knit from Stone Mountain.  Not very original as it is a virtual copy of the Lekala image but I wanted a holiday dress.  This is Lekala Pattern # 4060.

A little analysis on this pattern.  Maybe I could make it a bit more fitted in the waist but I probably won't. It is very comfortable, I really like that drape effect across the front that gives shaping and allows you to hit the buffet at a party without fear. I don't think the dress looks perfect when I am standing mannequin still as in the photos above, but everyone who has seen it in action thought it was perfect. Do you have a dress that looks better "in action"? I think this is one that does. The fit through the shoulders and neckline is what really sold me. It could be that I just happen to fit the Lekala sloper or they are magicians with the fit, but either way I am very happy with the result.  I did add a couple of inches in the length when I cut it out and did need that. The instructions are a bit confusing, not entirely sure what they were referring to in some instances but if you are not a beginner I think you could figure out how to sew up the pattern on your own. The markings (notches, pleats etc) were very well marked, all matched exactly.  Looking at these photos below I could use some improvement on my hem stitches on ponte knit - any tips?  I don't like machine hems so I did hand stitch, or maybe I am being too fussy.

   

In summary, I am very happy with my first Lekala pattern and will definitely use them again. There are other dress patterns on their site that are calling out to me (I know, more dresses that I don't need).  I do have a jacket pattern from them with a peplum design - yes time for me to get on the peplum trend - so I plan to get to the jacket in January.

Note: I received 3 patterns at no charge from Lekala. Their prices are very reasonable and I would be happy to purchase others in the future.

Good wishes to everyone for happiness, health and fantastic fabric finds in 2013.
Happy New Year,  Beth