Friday, September 27, 2019

Burda magazine summer dress mashup

Everywhere I look there are people getting excited about fall sewing, and the change of seasons. But not me! I would be happy for summer to go on and on. Despite the fact that I love to sew coats and jackets I would perhaps be just as happy to continue wearing summer clothes all year around. But fall will arrive, albeit a bit slowly in my corner of the world. So I have plenty of summer items still to wear and blog.
Here's a dress I finished in late August and was able to wear a few times. I love the color and the fabric but I think I'm over the fit and flare dress silhouette. Right now it looks a bit dated to me, and I'm finding some other shapes more interesting. The patterns are bodice: Burda 05/2018 #114 and the skirt is Burda 05/2019 #101.

hydrang dress4

hydr dress outside without belt

With tie belt and without - at first I thought it didn't work with the pleats but now I'm thinking it gives it more shape.

I found this fabric at an ASG (American Sewing Guild) remnant sale in the springtime. The local chapter has two sales each year, one in the spring and the other in October. I'm not a member (their programs haven't interested me) but I got on the mailing list for the sales and have found some fantastic things there. Here are a couple, this silk made into a top, and the red plaid that became the perfect holiday dress. In the spring I found so many great summer weight fabrics including several ginghams and cotton sateen. As summer sped by this is the only fabric I sewed up although I did give some to a friend. That same friend is assigned to scoop up anything promising at the upcoming October sale as I will be out of town. What will I miss ??? They have yardage, notions, books, tools and other goodies. Like I need more stuff :)

hydr dress on form side view

That's a better representation of the colors in the dress. It's such a nice quality lightweight cotton sateen, the type of fabric that is actually difficult to find lately.

For the pattern I did this mashup of two Burda patterns. Originally I was going to make the entire pattern shown on the left here, which might have given me the idea to use this fabric as the colors are so similar. However I traced off the whole dress but didn't like the fit and shape of the top. So I decided to use the bodice of the dress pattern on the right.

burda compositie of patterns

I made that dress on the right last year, here's the post. I left off the sleeves but otherwise made it as is. The fit of the bodice was just right so I made a mental note to reuse it if need be.

Since this was a mashup and I was kind of winging it to attach the skirt to the bodice I cut the bodice a bit longer than was necessary, and sewed it up, including attaching the zipper just to the bodice.


I lined the bodice with lightweight cotton for a clean finish inside.

And sometimes the zipper comes out perfectly!! with the top of the zipper just lined up with the edge of the neckline. Sewing happiness :)

hydr dress back zipper closeup

More construction details, I like to fully sew the bodice front plus lining, and the back plus lining, then attach at the shoulder seams and finish the last 3 inches on either side of the outer edge of the lining sewing it by hand.


hydrang dress back

One small fit adjustment after I got it all put together, it turned out a bit too big in the waist. Or it was ok without the tie belt but with it there was a bit of bunching around the waist. So quick fix time, I just sewed a small pleat through both the bodice and the skirt just behind the side seam on each side.

Hydr dress side extra pleat

Also, yes there are pockets, I put slippery lining fabric on the front of the pockets and then cotton on the back. That sneaky little pleat hides among the print, thus the red arrow pointing to it there.

hydrang dress 1

So that's the update some of my summer sewing. A few more summer dresses to come and then it's on to fall, particularly as we have some great classes coming up at Hello Stitch for jackets and pants that are perfect for our  - mild but you always need a jacket - bay area weather. Just a note - most of my classes are filling up quickly so if you want to have a spot register soon.

Up next, some sewing for a tropical vacation, and then I'm anxiously waiting for my October Burda, there's a jacket in there that is calling my name! Plus I just received a few swatches in an order from Mood Fabrics and I cannot resist of the the wools. So maybe I am ready for fall?

Happy end of summer sewing, Beth

Today's garden photo, the hydrangeas were amazing this summer, every one had so many blooms they were weighed down and I had armfuls for bouquets in the house. I hope next summer is the same!

Blue green hydrangea