Monday, May 6, 2013

Spring Coat from BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook

When I showed this coat to my family, the most frequent comment was something like "another coat?" But what they should have said is "another Burda?" because that is the notable point.  Ok, maybe I don't need another coat but I did have this large-ish piece of fabric remaining when I made this vintage McCalls pattern last year. This was a piece of fabric I found at my local thrift store that was already pre-fused with a very nice interfacing so it made it a dream to sew. 

Blue coat front

The pattern came from the BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook which I found in my local library. In fact I checked it out, came home and found the pattern sheet for the coat was missing. I had to go back to the library, find another copy (which did have the coat pattern) and then point out that the first copy was missing that pattern sheet.  It is great that my local library gets quite a few sewing books - mostly I find them by searching the on-line catalog and then requesting at my local branch. I am kind of torn about not buying the books but I like the library to know there is a demand for the genre. 
I made the pattern almost as designed with one change to make the sleeves smooth at the shoulder instead of gathered. The style is very sweet as is and the gathered sleeves looked a bit pre-teen to me. I also skipped the belt, while I like the look of coats with a belt when wearing they drive me crazy and I tend to leave them at home. 
BurdaStyle book white coat
I was a bit lazy when I traced out the pattern so I didn't even trace the lining pieces, just used the outer pieces to make the lining. I always figure that lining is just a guideline and when I make them I do little modifications for comfort and wearability. It suprises me that many patterns do not add a bit of ease to the lining pieces for outerwear and a center back pleat is a must. When I cut out the lining I add about 1.5 inches to the center back, whether on a fold or seamed, and then just sew the regular stitch line from the neckline down about 2 inches, then press the rest to create a pleat (see below right).

            Blu coat  lining pleatBlu coat lining pleat3

Do you like this lining? Which I found at an estate sale and knew it would be just right for something one day but never imagined this perfect :)
Blue coat lining
Another sneaky reason I don't use the lining pattern pieces is because so often coats have that round neckline facing piece and I prefer the lining fabric to go up the back as far as possible to meet the collar (since coat fabrics are so often itchy).  I kind of improvise and match the front and back lining at the shoulder seam. This works as I sew the linings in by hand most times. One small live and learn moment was that I could have added a bit more interfacing in the collar, it is a bit limp but perhaps just something I notice when wearing.

Blue coat lining at collar
I got these buttons at Stone Mountain fabrics in Berkeley but tragedy nearly struck when I was making the buttonholes as I have broken my cherished Singer buttonhole attachment. I do have 4 other ones but each one has some weird issue, wrong cams, screw missing etc. So they are like the proverbial car kept for parts. Luckily I was able to complete the buttonholes as it was way too late to put in bound buttonholes. Plus I had already decided early on that machine buttonholes would look better.
Blue coat buttons and pleats2
When I was cutting this coat out it was down to shreds of fabric remaining, and actually had to slim down the walking vent in the back.  To keep all its width I finished the edge with some satin lining found in my scrap bag which was a very close match and I like the peek of satin there in the vent. I did put some white weft fusible on the hem to give it some body, it really helps the hem hold its shape and resist crumpling. 
coat vent
Blue coat back

Here is me and my spring coat plus a garden photo all in one.  Rushing as it started to rain! Talk about unexpected but very welcome for the garden.

Happy sewing, Beth

Blue coat on me3

25 comments:

  1. That looks beautifully made as always! Blue is such a good colour on you too.

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  2. I'm with you on the sleeves and belt! I always leave them off too :) That is gorgeous - love, love, love the lining! :)

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  3. The colour is stunning... especially against the red roses in your garden.

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  4. Very nice! The back is particularly lovely with the way the princess seams go into the darts/tucks. This does not need a belt.

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  5. What a lovely coat. The colour looks great on you. I really like the tip of putting the lining up to the neck - great tip.

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  6. This turned out great -- you can never have too many coats! The lining really is perfect and I like your addition to the vent edge. Your garden looks beautiful!

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  7. I remember that beautiful coat as it is just as lovely in person.

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  8. What an incredible coat! Your work is so inspiring.

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  9. You look wonderful in your new fabulous coat. I appreciate the tips you included on the lining-thanks.

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  10. Beautiful coat. I love the sleek style and the gorgeous color. You have found some marvelous fabrics at thrift shops and estate sales. That lining fabric is perfect for this coat

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  11. That looks really terrific on you. What a great tip for the lining at the back of the neck! Who'd have thought! Will definitely be using that one. Nice and smooth right up to the collar. Perfect.

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  12. Beth, Your coat is lovely and beautifully sewn.

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  13. What a beautiful coat. I always love to see your professional sewing skills on display! The lining could not be more perfect.

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  14. Oh, what a lovely, lovely coat ... and such a beautiful colour! Love that striped lining.

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  15. It is a lovely coat. You always do such good work.

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  16. Gorgeous coat and impeccably made as always, I'm almost starting to wish I lived somewhere colder to justify a rainbow of different coats, but in any case next time I make one it is going to be in a bright colour.

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  17. What an adorable coat! I love the style, color and especially the jazzy lining! I'm a sucker for anything that adds a pop of "surprise" inside! Beautiful work!

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  18. This is just so pretty. I love the style and the colour equally.

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  19. Lovely coat! I have this pattern on my to do list. I do like your mod to the sleeve - much better. I didn't like the original puffy sleeve either.

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  20. I really like the shape of your coat, very nice.

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  21. Hi Beth! I need to catch up with all your work of late, but I have to let you know that this is the most elegant, beautifull spring coat I ever laid eyes on. From the colour to the shape and of course the fitting is a perfect 10. Oh, I wish I could take lessons from you!

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  22. I just love this! The shape is so perfect and the cheerful bright blue color is just the thing. However, i hope for your sake you won't get any wear out of this until the Fall!!!

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  23. I love this coat, it is the exact same colour as I coat I bought a few months ago!
    I love all of your creations, everything is so perfect.

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  24. I was eyeing this pattern! I have ordered the book from our library too. Yours turned out simply lovely. Do you think it would work in a wool melton as a winter coat?

    Off to look through the rest of your work! (I found you when I was searching for the "correct" direction to cut corduroy! That jacket is gorgeous too.)

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