Pattern Whisperer presents: loose-fit dresses

The idea for this Pattern Whisperer post has been kicking around in my mind for a while, but I was stumped about what to call this category of dresses. Loose-fit dresses doesn't really sound descriptive enough. Some of them are cocoon shaped dresses, others are very A-line or have a tent shape. Maybe un-fitted dresses? Basically the whole collection are dresses without a defined waist. Perhaps there's an interest in this shape after a long stretch of body-con styles, and I'm quite late with this trend. And yet it's also a retro shape - think of Balenciaga or Courreges in the 60's. Whatever the reason, once you figure out the right proportion for you then it really is a great shape to wear - and pretty easy to sew as well.

So here are some Pattern Whisperer picks for loose-fit dresses. Or cocoon dresses, or A-line or shift or maybe even muumuu. If you aren't familiar with that one it's a loose dress of Hawaiian origin that hangs from the shoulder. A perfect description of this category. And usually brightly colored - always my preference. And if you haven't read my previous post - that dress definitely falls into this category so it can go on the list as well. 

First up the Xerea dress from Pauline Alice Patterns. I love her designs - my favorite indie designer (which admittedly is a very small list). I really like that she includes multiple variations in this pattern with different necklines and dress shape. Very cute! Available in paper or PDF. and instructions in 3 languages. I will also give a nod to her Malvarosa dress, also with multiple variations in one pattern and pockets. (actually she seems to put pockets in everything, yay!)



Now for some BurdaStyle choices.
I adore this dress with just enough ruffle to be interesting and it would be so lovely in a printed silk or even a border print as they show. Also it has darts for shaping and a pretty neckline.
BurdaStyle Flounce Dress 02/2017 #106B  PDF from their website or in the Feb. magazine.



Another Burdastyle that intrigues me is this one, which they call the Bat Sleeve Dress 05/2016 #115B.
As I mentioned in the opening paragraph, you have to figure out which of these type of dresses work with your particular figure and style preferences. Someone did just that - and I remembered it when I chose this pattern to show. Allison of Allison C. Sewing Gallery made both the dress and the top and they are fantastic!  You know how some bloggers seem to make all the patterns that you want (or wish) you could make? She is one of those that makes me want to subscribe to Burda and sew up the exact same patterns that she chooses. 



One more Burda - this is is a basic shape but adds some spice with the low back and ties - which I imagine would also keep that deep V on your shoulders. I like it just how they show it in the hot pink but it would be great in a dark color as well.  Shift dress with pockets 05/2011 # 111B



And now for Style Arc. Which I have rarely sewn but always see so many nice versions of their patterns. 

The Mila dress offers great color blocking opportunities or mixing up the fabric with a print and solid. The shape of this dress is really interesting - I've seen some great versions online but I know this is one that just wouldn't work on me, not enough fit adjustment potential in the bottom half. 

For another take on the cocoon shape, the Adeline dress gives you that slouchy comfy t-shirt shape but in a dress. I think it has side seams plus a center back seam so some adjustment potential. I like the drawing with the model wearing sneaks - I'm all about sneakers and espadrilles this summer. 


Now for something a little bit different, this dress from Butterick B5881. Not a cocoon or tent shape but definitely one that skims over the figure and is not waist hugging. I'm not a fan of linen but I know a lot of people are and this would look great in a lightweight linen. I think this pattern has been out a few years but seems to still be available.  The color block version is a nice idea although I don't care for the example - looks like leftover pieces they wanted to use up!



From McCalls I found three patterns that could make a nice loose fit dress. The first M7348 is a great beginner pattern - with learn to sew details and designed for medium to heavy weight knits. Also good for learning to sew knits. The M7562 looks really cute in the example on the model, I think the fabric choice would make this dress interesting. Lori from Girls in the Garden sewed it up and ended up changing it into a top - so she has some tips on sizing.  The pattern on the right, M7403 has interesting seaming and looking at the yardage it is not designed for knits even though it kind of looks like it. But you could certainly make it in a medium weight knit that has some body. I like the version C shown in the stripes.



What no Vogues?  Yes, here are a couple. This dress  V9107 looks so sharp in the black and white version, and I think it would look chic and sophisticated at a summer party where you could eat all you want and not need to wear Spanx. There, I said it - these dresses all have that comfort factor. Sometimes you want to look all sleek and shapely and other times you just want to relax and wear a cool loose swishy dress. This pattern has nice variations and could work all year round.



OK - don't laugh - but I LOVE this dress Vogue 9237. The sleeveless version. It's so simple and I might even make it (although I confess I wouldn't buy the pattern - just swipe the idea and make it from one of my basic dress patterns. I guess I'm a sucker for a ruffle and this one is sort of a surprise ruffle. A walking away ruffle.



Here's a dress that I have chosen previously; the Papercut patterns Sway dress - and I still think it is really pretty. However I haven't sewn it up. But it looks good every time I see it pop up on someone's blog or Instagram. I think this is the perfect traveling dress for any warm weather vacation - whether beachside or in some city cafe.

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Here's another one that is so tempting. And has such an interesting shape, the Named Inari Tee dress.
So many nice versions of this one around, my favorite might be this striped one by Handmade by Carolyn. She looks so slouchy-cool. Is that a state of being? It is in that dress. Also this version by Karen of Did You Make That? The thing to note it is appears that nobody can make only one. Multiples appear. So good value for a pattern, right? And it must be quick to sew. I've almost convinced myself :)



So that's the round up of my suggestions for loose fit dresses. I haven't decided if I will sew up any of these but you never know. June is busting out all over here, the temps are climbing and a dress like this sound pretty good on a scorching day.

Happy Sewing,
Beth

and today's garden photo  - since I mentioned color-blocking in a few of these dresses how about the original color-blocker?  Mother Nature! Nobody does it better.  Violas in purple and white.



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Pattern Whisperer selects: interesting knit tops

Time for another Pattern Whisperer post, for this the category is interesting knit tops. Recently I had a request to recommend some knit tops and thought it was a good topic. Especially as I was working on a post for jackets but I wasn't really coming up with anything that really grabbed my attention.
Knit tops are such a rewarding item to sew, as they don't take up loads of time like a jacket or coat, usually can be sewn quite economically, and are forgiving in fit. Plus a knit top can work for so many wardrobe needs, from super casual to elegant to office wear. I even convinced myself to try one of these patterns and have already sewn up two versions since I first noticed the pattern!

Let's talk basics first.  Here are two knit top patterns from Vogue that really suit a variety of body types due to the built in pattern shaping.



The V1363 on the left is a Sandra Betzina pattern which shows out-of-print on their website today but I could swear it wasn't a few days ago when I was first looking at it. This pattern has bust darts which is great for fitting and I like the contrast neckline option. So a versatile basic that you can make in a variety of fabrics. The V8925 on the right has princess seams, which is the other option for getting a really nice fit and this pattern also has a contrast neckline option. So both patterns have a bit of design and change them up from the ordinary t-shirt style knit top.

If you are looking for something with a more cozy feel here is Vogue 8831. This has the draping neckline which is also seen on the Sewaholic Renfrew pattern (one that I like a lot but feel it has some issues with the armholes/sleeves which are a bit skimpy).  This pattern below has a raglan sleeve so really easy to sew, and more princess seams plus cup sizes.



Following here's the pattern I just sewed in two versions, V9205 - this might be one of my new go-to knit top patterns. I made the first version in a jersey and it is super comfy, I even used a stripe and it came out well. The second version I made in a very strange fabric I found at a ASG sale - sort of a vintage poly knit, like a ponte but with less stretch. So it is a bit less comfy but I love the colors. And a good choice for my St. Patricks day wear - blog post in March on that version.  While the darts are decorative they do create some shaping.



It seems like all these patterns I have chosen are suitable for color-block options including this one. Which is very simple but I think it could be lengthened to make a cute dress as well. Most of these patterns are also shown as tunic length as well as regular hip length tops which means they will provide the yardage for that option which is nice if you want the tunic style.





Another one that has quite a few variations in the pattern envelope is Butterick 6248. You know I love a pattern that has lots of variations in one pattern envelope - it appeals to my thrifty side plus you actually have more patterns with less storage. Pockets, interesting back view, cozy cowl neck. I don't think I would be comfortable a top with that long back but some people carry off this very well.



Here's one with interesting seaming, I really like the one with the stripes and solid black and grey fabric.


This one is not super interesting but if you like this draped neckline and want fit guidance then I think these Palmer and Pletsch patterns are quite clever. The adjustment lines are printed on the pattern pieces and they include instructions on full bust adjustments, swayback, sleeve etc. This one is McCalls 6963.



While this one doesn't have a lot of options in the pattern envelope it's kind of cute with the interesting asymmetrical front.





Moving on to other pattern companies - Style Arc has a LOT of really interesting knit tops. I haven't sewn a lot of them but I have friends that love these patterns. I am always tempted but haven't made any. Here are a few that caught my eye.












I really love this last one, if you sew this Madeleine Ponte top and with a pencil skirt in the same fabric it would be a super sharp work look that would give you the appearance of a dress with the versatility of separates.

For a more fitted type of knit top Lekala has some really interesting options. I have made this one in the past and it came out perfectly. Of all the things I have tried from Lekala the knits have been by far the best which is kind of interesting.  Here's the post to see my versions of this top.



Here's another one I like a lot - you can see that a lot of the knit tops I sew don't have round necklines, I am always chilly and the spot I feel it the most is the back of my neck. So I tend to choose these patterns that have a collar or turtleneck when sewing for myself. I downloaded this pattern but I can't remember if I sewed it. I'll have to search in the pattern drawer to find it.




As for other patterns - there is this Burda pattern I sewed in the fall and I really love it. Which is Burda 02-2013-126.

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I also like this McCalls 7046, post here.
My favorite plain raglan t-shirt, Burda 6990.
My absolute favorite New Look wrap front knit top, New Look 6150.
Another wrap front top, McCalls 6513, here and here plus other versions.

Another pattern company I want to mention is Jalie. They have lots of knit tops, and I think their patterns are the best value of all as they contain all sizes in one envelope. So a pattern for a knit top will have multiple view and contain sizes from small kids to adult. You have to trace the patterns but the paper is really thick and the printing is easy to trace. I have used their basic t-shirt as a starting point for a variety of knit tops.

For this Pattern Whisperer I looked briefly at Simplicity and New Look but I am so annoyed with their website that I am not even considering them right now. They have lots of products and a fairly comprehensive offering on their site but how hard would it be to add some better search features? I have emailed them a few times with no response and even commented on their Instagram. I am thinking of making that a daily thing - does anyone agree with me on this?  Or maybe they will just think I am crazy. Either way it gets it out of my system :)



Here's a sneak peek on that Vogue pattern with the radiating darts that I mentioned above.



As always I tend to stick to the big 4 or 5 pattern companies for my picks - since I find the limitations of indie patterns not as appealing (fewer options in the patterns, higher price, etc. although I know they are a good option in Europe and Australia.). But if you have any great patterns to recommend feel free to add them.

Up next more shirts completed. And even a how-to in the works on doing a one piece shirt placket plus changing darts to gathers. Tomorrow is a serious garden clean-up day - wow this rain is fantastic but the weeds are taking advantage of it too!

Happy Sewing
Beth

today's garden photo, this one was taken a few years ago but the exact same plant is blooming right now, by the front door. Camellias are so pretty but the blooms drop quickly and make a mess. But I just can't bring myself to change them out.





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Pattern Whisperer presents Blouses for parties

It's time for another Pattern Whisperer post and this time I have blouses on my mind. By this I mean a  top or blouse that you probably wouldn't wear to work. Not something tailored or businesslike, but a blouse that you can pair with some elegant trousers or sleek ankle length pants and be ready for a party or get-together. Most years I gravitate to dresses for holiday events but this year I am just in the mood for separates. So here goes with some ideas for blouses.

This time of year can turn into sewing crunch time - if you are like me you might be stitching a few gifts plus trying to make a special occasion outfit. With that thought I have tried to select patterns that will be quick to fit and sew but also can look a little bit special (i.e. not office wear).

This type of shirt or blouse is all about the fabric. Some of these patterns work with a variety of fabrics but for a dressy version think about using silk charmeuse, poly charmeuse, chiffon, metallics or even sequins.

This year seems to be all about the bows, ties and interesting sleeves. I love seeing how styles circulate - a lot of the current patterns seem to be revisiting styles from earlier decades. Which proves that there is very little that is new in fashion, right?

To start - I think a lot of people will buy this pattern. Simplicity 8216. For one thing it is a good value for your money, with both a blouse and a dress version. You can make it any length, it has the neck tie which is all over now and would be really pretty in a sheer fabric. In fact I just sewed a blouse with this type of neck tie (doing a little pattern work on my standard shirt pattern) and I made the tie too wide so it looks weird and I am scrapping the whole thing, and repurposing it into something else. But anyway - this one is cute and I think would sew up fast. You could leave off the elastic in the long sleeves for a different look if you aren't into the gathered sleeve.




Here's another Simplicity 8131 that is similar but with two versions of the neck tie, and also the cold shoulder look that is really popular now. There are a lot of patterns for that look if you want to sew that. I actually think it would be quite easy to just convert your sleeve/shirt pattern to have that feature but it is probably easier to buy the pattern as they will have all the instructions for finishing the edge etc. This blouse has no darts but shoulder gathers which I like a lot on blouses. Again, lightweight or sheer fabrics would be really nice for this one.  Another good thing about most Simplicity patterns is that their size range covers from 6 - 22.



Just to show that there is not a lot new with sewing patterns, I was looking on Etsy for a blouse pattern (I had a specific thing in mind but it was not in any of the current pattern offerings) and came across this Vogue patterns. Their patterns from a while ago didn't always include the full range of sizes but they seem to have improved a lot in the last few years and print the patterns in all sizes. However I came across this one which was in the 20-24 size. Super cute and 3 different blouses in one envelope. There was just this one available last week - could be sold by now but it would be worth looking out for if it is your size.




As I mentioned, there are a ton of these cold shoulder tops around now so here is a Butterick that also has a couple of different views. I think this one would have to be all about the fabric, as the pattern is a bit of a snooze. Butterick 5889. But you could make the plain t-shirt version in a metallic stripe, that would be very cute. Also if you had a border print that would work. The other version with the buttons also would be interesting in the right fabric, paired with very slim pants.




This year I have been happy to find some hidden gems among the New Look patterns. Which at a price of $ 4.00 I always take a good look at. Are they also priced lower than other patterns outside the US?  just curious.  This one is all about the sleeves - I like the View C version sleeves and then the View B neckline. That is a great feature about these New Look patterns, they give you so many options in one envelope although it can be a bit of a puzzle to find all the pattern pieces and work out the yardage. You could also use a contrast fabric or lace on the yoke in view D. They must have a big stash of seriously drab fabrics at the New Look headquarters as they seem to sew up a lot of the samples in really uninspiring fabrics. New Look 6414.



Here's one out of left field (baseball reference for my overseas readers). Hot Patterns 1196, I don't usually look at the pattern companies other than McVoguerick, Simplicity/NewLook and Burda. But I saw a couple of versions of this one during the past year and filed it away in my memory bank for a Pattern Whisperer post.





They show it here looking a bit summery with white pants but I think it could work as well for a holiday event in a rich shimmery jewel tone. And it looks glamorous yet allows you to eat all the party fare you want. Call that a win! They indicate it can work in a wide variety of fabrics, both knits and wovens.

Remember I said it is all about the fabric? This one Burda 6649 envelope pattern  is perfect for some interesting choices and I could see it working in lace, sheer fabrics or even two colors of silk. I like the release darts for shaping at the waist and it looks like a super quick top to sew. I think they show buttons down the back but I might change that to a zipper, or even skip the back opening if you could get it over your head and then put in a side seam zipper to keep the fitted look.




Here's one that I would sew up if I lived in the southern hemisphere where summer and Christmas happen together (you lucky people !!) This would be so cute in a print as shown or in metallic denim and you could even make the strap sections in a complementary fabric or leather. Also if you made pants in the same fabric it would give you a cool jumpsuit look without the jumpsuit restroom wrangling. Burda Cutout Back Top 07/2015 # 120A  Here's the link.





Another from the BurdaStyle website. Here's the link. V-neck blouse Plus size 07/2016 #129A This looks like a nice top to pair with a cute jacket. I love the way the twist as the neckline adds some pretty draping and interest. Also it has bust darts which are good for fitting. The pattern calls for two layers which allows you to play with color/fabric. The BurdaStyle website patterns are outstanding for patterns in this size range, I am always surprised I don't see more of them sewn up. Also if you see a pattern but it is not in your size or perhaps has some details you are not sure about - look through the BurdaStyle pdf patterns, so many lookalikes or variations that might be perfect. Granted the instructions are kind of skimpy but I think you could use the instructions or order of construction from a similar pattern or book to get you through it.




Lastly this Vogue pattern caught my eye. Vogue 8927. If you like tailored garments but wanted to change it up for a holiday party this one might work for you. There are so many basic shirt patterns out there but this one is designed for the lace overlay which is handy. Giving you the yardage and layout instructions so that you get the lace edge along the bottom as shown. Plus it is a dress as well.




So those are my ideas for this type of blouse - which is kind of a niche category and as I said above, is all about the fabric. Simpler might be better if you are working with a very luxe, expensive or tricky fabric. Choose something where you will have a easy time, enjoy the fabric and don't overdo it on the design.

Now it's time for me to issue an apology of sorts to my very first Pattern Whisperer victim. Here's the link to my original post - some good options there still. I say victim because I took requests for a reader for me to choose a pattern for a party dress. And the person who I selected was Rachel of Sew South London, a very good sport who accepted my suggestion of Vogue 1342 Donna Karan dress. She sewed it up, with some serious pattern puzzling and I think she looked fabulous in it, the color was perfect and the shape was great on her. But I'm going on the record to say whew - that pattern is a doozy! One of my recent sewing students brought that along this dress, well actually a shoebox with the pattern and then cut-out and slightly sewn dress parts. She said she had trouble with it and if we had time after our main project could we take a look at it. We did and it was a real head scratcher. So I told her to leave it here and I would take a look prior to her next lesson. A few days later I woke up full of energy so decided to take the pattern pieces out of the box and start. Whew! that pattern is really something. As many of those Vogue Donna Karan patterns are. It took me about 2 hours of re-marking in color coded tailor's tacks (for small, large and square pattern dots) and then I finally figured out how it went together. So it is on it's way to being stitched up.  But Rachel - BRAVO to you for finishing that and wearing it to your party. Sewing baptism by fire on that one. Anyway - a learning lesson for me and my pattern whisperer posts:) Although I still love the Donna Karan Vogue patterns and will eventually own (hoard) them all.

I hope this post has given you some ideas for sewing over the long Thanksgiving weekend here - after stuffing ourselves with turkey etc and pie! pie ! pie ! (you can tell what part of the dinner I like) I will hit the gym hard and then do some serious sewing. Particularly as we are supposed to have rain over the weekend - hurrah - and the garden can take care of itself.

Sew your stash and stay out of the fabric stores  - those black Friday crowds are too much for me.

Happy sewing and Happy Thanksgiving,
Beth

Today's garden photo, here's the view from the window above my sewing machine. Meyer lemons and raindrops. A good combination.

Pattern Whisperer presents: floaty summer dresses

It's time for a new Pattern Whisperer post and since the topic is summer dresses I had better get moving. In case anyone is inspired to sew up one of these recommendations.

In fact this Pattern Whisperer is going to be very specific - a dress that is pretty, floaty, feminine, figure flattering. Enough adjectives? I have a specific type of occasion in mind with this one. It could be an on-the-casual side garden wedding, a evening party at a restaurant where they serve the drinks and appetizers outside at 6pm and the day has been scorching. A shower or birthday party where you want to look a notch above casual and show off your sewing accomplishments at the same time.  Perhaps your stash contains a great cotton voile or sateen in a nice floral and want just the right pattern. Hopefully one of these will work for your summer event. By the way, a year ago I did a Pattern Whisperer on summer sundresses, and a lot of those are still in print so check that out for more ideas.

And stay tuned if a full skirt is not your thing - when I was accumulating patterns for this post I found enough great sheath dress patterns to merit their own post - so that will be up soon.

First up is this Vogue 9182 dress which probably takes a lot of fabric but looks quite easy to sew (if you don't mind making some buttonholes!) It has custom cup pattern sizes  - how great is it that the pattern companies are finally putting this feature in a lot of their patterns. I really like the back of this dress, it takes it from basic to extra pretty. I love the gingham version - that would be so cute for a summer party and the black and white makes it more chic and less picnic tablecloth. This pattern gives a slightly vintage vibe without the pain of a single size vintage pattern.



Next is another Vogue pattern 9167. This one is not so low cut as the previous dress but also has princess seaming and custom cup sizes. I really like the pleated skirt version. This pattern is very similar in shape to a lot of other patterns, example Vogue 2900 which is a great DKNY pattern that is out of print  - so this one is a good alternative. Also Simplicity 2174 which I partially used to make this dress.





Speaking of custom sizing, I like the options in the new Cashmerette pattern, the Upton Dress. The neckline is very nicely shaped and I love the pleated skirt option, although the seamed skirt is nice also and probably takes a bit less fabric. Either way you can mix and match the bodice and skirt. I don't know how the pattern is designed, but if I were sewing it I would make sure the waistband is not one continuous piece but a front and back waistband, and then I would add a bit extra when cutting out the side seams, and then pin fit on the body to get a nice shape. I never like patterns that have you construct the whole top and then attach the skirt - just more trouble to fit. But this looks like a winner for the size range.




This next one is a bit of a curve ball in that it is knits-only, unlike all my other selections. Although I will note that I have made plenty of things that were designed for wovens in knits with success - as long as the necklines etc are stabilized then why not?  Anyway I always like dresses that have shirring, ruching, gathering, whatever you call it. They add visual interest and sometimes hide a multitude of sins! I even like the high-low hem in the main image. Kind of a fun way to do that trend and if you don't like it then hem it straight across.

These next two Butterick patterns are a bit less floaty but still fit into the category of summery and not clingy. I love that color blocking options on the B6316 and the tulip skirt on the B6164 is one of my favorite looks. Also B6164 looks quite easy to sew and you can tighten up the neckline if that is a place where you have some fitting issues by adjusting the darts and the cap sleeve.



Another recommendation from the Burda plus offering is this dress which looks simple but kind of fascinates me - as the side panels are cut on the bias. I have never seen that before and wonder if you could do that with any princess seamed dress to get the same effect which is figure hugging but not tight. I hope someone sews this up so I can see :) Also love that skirt with the flare - so pretty and kind of highlights some great shoes. This is a PDF downloadable from their Burdastyle website if you don't have the magazine. 

Here is a dress that I have seen a lot of versions online, the Sway dress from Papercut Patterns - and were it not for my already extensive pattern stash I just might order it. But if you want to sew a dress that has all the highlights - easy to sew, flattering, perfect for a vacation, shows off a great fabric, and leaves room for ice cream, then this is the dress. Super cute and yet so simple. I think I have talked myself into it.



A couple more patterns to round out my selection.

This one will make the list on the upcoming sheath dress Pattern Whisperer post as well, since it has custom cup sizes, choice of skirt styles, sleeveless or sleeve options. Check Pattern Review as there are 30 reviews on all different body shapes which look really great - also I want to steal some of those fabrics that have been used.




Lastly - thinking back I realize that I made a dress that fits the description here - a floaty full skirted summer dress, this Vogue 1353 which I think is still in print. I actually reach for this dress more than I expected - especially when it is really hot here a cotton voile dress is the perfect thing. This link takes you to the post for this version - which was my 2nd. And then links to the first version where I worked out all the fitting details if you are interested.




There are so many dresses of this type available - you probably have one already in your stash. Both Simplicity and New Look have a lot of cute dress patterns - however their website is so bad lately that I gave up searching there. But I will give a thumbs up for New Looks patterns, their pricing can't be beat and they so often have a variety of views in the same pattern envelope.

Today I finished a project that I have been working on for what seems like weeks - way too long but I kept setting it aside. In any case - done! and now I can move on to new things without feeling guilty. Up next a few things I sewed as examples for upcoming Craftsy posts  - one of them is a great re-use of a previous pattern.

Happy summer sewing, 
Beth


today's garden photo - I guess these are daisies? not sure but they are finally blooming.