Sunday, January 6, 2013

New Year, New Look 6150 wrap knit top

It has been great to read the "year in review" posts recently, the success and failures, the plans for 2013. I thought about doing a post like that, but I am not much for retrospection and 2012 is history. The weather is grey and gloomy here, just right for a bit of hibernation, lots of fabric browsing on the web and some serious weekend napping. I have kept to one of my resolutions of 2012 which was to make separates. Enter New Look 6150, a multi-version pattern with a T-shirt and wrap shirt style with sleeve variations. The relevant word here being variations as I have now made this top four times in the last few weeks.
First version is this one, not sure about the fabric, I think it is a bamboo knit I ordered ages ago from Fabric.com. True confession time  - I made a mistake on this one. The front of the armscye seemed to have too much fabric, and the shoulder sleeves tilted to the back which I thought was a problem with the pattern draft, but making it again showed that I had cut the wrong line in that area on the multi size pattern, so that section was a size 16 and all the rest was a 12. No wonder it was a bit wonky in that area!
Aqua wrap top front

Next version was a holiday present for my pal Michelle, who is very near my size and thus the recipient of a few of my creations. (I made the brown polka dot version of this dress for her last year). This is a sweater knit - maybe some kind of acrylic that I got from FashionFabricsClub.com. Sort of a strange fabric and it sat in my stash for a while but it made up as a very lounge-wear type of top and kind of cozy. I like the dusty teal blue and it makes me think this pattern works with slightly thicker knits instead of very thin ones. 

Wrap top sweaterknitSweater knit wrap top

Next version is this grey stripe one for my friend and frequent photographer, Alice.  She bought this fabric more than a year ago when we went to Happy Stop fabrics in Oakland. (a strange little shop where the fabric finds are totally hit or miss). This one was a hit and I think this top feels best in this fabric. It has a bit of body and stretch, I think it is a remnant from a manufacturer of high-end activewear. Ok, I will say it - I am very proud of that stripe matching! front, back, sleeves, neckline.  Let me take a moment to admire my work......... enough, moving on.  This version is a bit longer as she is taller than I am and it is not finished, still need to hem.  I had my doubts when looking at the fabric, thought it would be too much, but once I started making it I decided I do like the stripes very much.

Wrap top knit grey stripe frontwrap top knit grey stripe back

Last version, again for me, in a rayon knit from Stone Mountain fabrics. This one is actually quite thin and drapey with the front armhole sized correctly.

Royal blue knit wrap front
A couple of construction notes, here is a look at the inside. I don't see the need to finish that inside edge of the neckline. If it was folded and sewn then the thicker edge would show through the right side and I really dislike seeing lumps and bumps under fabric. Even if it is serged then on a thin knit it shadows through.  I don't think the sewing police will come and check to see if all my edges are finished.

Aqua knit wrap top inside
One question I have is on pressing knits. I probably had the iron a bit too hot but check out the mark on the center back seam, I pressed it on the right side and got that. Consequently I did a lot of test ironing on fabric scraps with this fabric and most all of them got this shiny press mark. Even when pressing on the wrong side I got that mark sometimes, creating a shadow of the seam allowance. I don't like that!
I think these rayon or bamboo knits in solid colors are a bit fussy - my only previous experience was a printed knit that probably obscured any press marks.  

Aqua knit back seam

Pattern New Look 6150
I made this turquoise top in early December and it has been my most worn item recently. Layers under sweaters, fits under a blazer, casual or dressy.  Sewing satisfaction!  Shown here with my Sewaholic Thurlow trousers. I made these pants as a test version from an old denim tablecloth that someone gave me. I wanted to retest the pattern as I had originally made a size 10 and decided that was not at all right. So I started with a size 6, much better. Now I am sorry I used this goofy thin non-stretch denim as I have a just about perfect pair of trouser jeans. I think I will experiment with this pair and try to make them into some straight leg ankle length pants for summer. By the way, I have just finished the Craftsy pants fitting class with Sandra Betzina and I highly recommend. Lots of good information and tips.
Wrap top aqua and jeans
Here is a link to my Flickr set with all these wrap tops.  I think that is is for this wrap version for a while, but I did buy some fabric for the other version so that will be coming soon.

And now I think it is time for a little rainy day nap.   Happy sewing, Beth

20 comments:

  1. looking good! you always do such nice work.

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  2. On one heck of a top making roll here! I really like the second one in the dusty teal. What a lovely colour! And I have always been too scared to leave my knits unfinished but when you think about it they generally don't fray... Well worth it for a smooth finish!

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  3. You have seriously excelled yourself on making these tops! Love all of them, but fav would have to be the grey stripe - it looks super! I'm not a great knit sewer, so how you finished the seams seems good to me (and the rightside looks very smooth). Enjoy your well earned nap...J

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  4. What a great top! I especially love the dusty teal and the stripe versions, but they all look good!

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  5. Great tops, Beth! I never think of California as gray and gloomy - hope the weather clears up soon :)

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  6. Great tops, Beth! I never think of California as gray and gloomy - hope the weather clears up soon :)

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  7. I just love this pattern too! Your versions are all great, even the one with the "wonky" armsync! Wonderful job!

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  8. I love it. The colors are great. I have got to work on my crossover FBAs so I can copy you.

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  9. I am working on my muslin for the Thurlows. You started too big, I started too small, but we both came to the same conclusion, that the 6 is the right size. :) I'm enrolled in the "altering pants" class on pattern review and having Angela Wolf help me fit. I also have watched some of Sandra's pants fitting class online but it overwhelmed me a little. I think I have to actually do the steps with her rather than just watching it like a movie. :)

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  10. A very flattering top! In great colours :)

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  11. This is such a versatile top - love the turquoise blue

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  12. All of the top versions are great -- I love the wrap style. I never think of knits as being iron/pressing-sensitive, but I'm not exactly an expert on sewing knits either! Good to know.

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  13. That is a whole set of really nice wrap tops! I really like the dark blue colour, very smart :)

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  14. Love them. BTW- I don't finish most of my seams on knit garments for this same reason you stated above.

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  15. This is just the style of top I love and these are no exception. I'd have had a hard time giving any of them away!

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  16. I think all your tops are very nice! Happy New Year to you!

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  17. These are great tops! I am mightily impressed by your stripe matching.

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  18. Such simple buy wearable pattern, love all the versions.. Would love to make one. And don't worry about sewing policy I won't tell a thing .x

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