Friday, February 20, 2015

Quart coat completed! Pauline Alice coat pattern

The Quart coat is done. There is something very satisfying about this pattern title, I have to ask the designer Pauline Alice where she got the name. An almost alliterative name to say out loud and a very pleasing pattern to sew. I'm just wild for the pleats although I do think that fabric choice can make or break the coat, it needs to be something that will press nicely. I will have a follow up post on buttons and buttonholes but here are the final project pictures and the coat as worn.

This is Jaime wearing her new coat. Lots of photos in this post but I think this coat is worth it!

Jaime 1 copy front buttoned collar up copy

Whew, that plaid + double breasted + pleats, I will admit that fully half the work was just cutting it out. And it is a subtle plaid, but it needs to match. This wool was really a perfect texture, a wool flannel but just a tiny bit more crisp than the usual wool so it pressed perfectly. This was actually a lucky break for me. I happened to have two fabrics that would have worked, one was this and the other was more of a tweed, mixture of tan, lavender, grey. Slightly dull. In retrospect I think she chose the better one but at the time I was hoping she would select the tweed, because...not plaid!

pleats close up copy

Jaime2 coat

coat back copy

Ok, lots of readers like the inside view so I made sure to flip the coat inside out. I omitted the back neck facing and cut the lining so it went all the way up to the bottom of the collar.  You can't see it here on the navy blue lining but is another post for a Burda coat I made in 2013 that shows this lining change.

inside lining frontlining back copy

A couple more details. Someone asked in the previous post about the lining hem and the pleated section. I confess I didn't read the instruction so not sure how it was supposed to go but I just cut a piece of lining, about 3/4 of the length of the pattern piece and then just hand pleated it at the seam to fit it in that section. I machine stitched the lining hem just in that section, then the rest of the lining is hand sewn to the hem with a little jump pleat to allow for movement.

hem lining copy

Pockets, of course. Same lining fabric which is Ambience rayon. I think pocket linings should disappear, and usually I cut a little extension on the coat body so that it sticks into the pocket further but I forgot. But these pockets are on the front princess seams and they hide well.

pocket lining copy

I had my doubts about this collar but now that I have finished it I really like it - lots of ways to style it.

collar close up copy

I could not be happier with the combo of coat, style and wearer. I think she is too :)

Jaime smile

We took these pictures in Marin on the bayshore - it looks cloudy but just a little fog. No rain for us, unfortunately.

I did two previous posts that included this coat, the first is here, just a sneak peek really of the inside and my extremely zealous tailor tacking, and the second post is here, with some details on construction. Pauline contacted me last summer and asked if I would try out her pattern which was still in the design stage, she sent me some photos and I said a resounding yes. Then I was swamped with other stuff, made a muslin, gave her feedback and decided I would not sew it as I don't care for double breasted all that much on me, and though it was not really a coat nor a jacket because of the length. Then I thought about changing it to single breasted - which could easily be done and it would look just as cute. Also thought about lengthening. However when I showed it to Jaime she wanted it exactly as designed, and I think she was absolutely right. (of course she is 5'8" and everything looks good on her :) A pattern with a lot of possibilities, probably not a beginner project but definitely a nice challenge.

Onward to my next project, I am still pondering the Burda coat, and thinking it might be jacket length instead - how many coats do I need?

Happy sewing, Beth

39 comments:

  1. Aabsolutely gorgeous. I can only aspire to sewing so well. The fit, plaid matching and pleats are excellent.

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  2. Stunning coat and Jamie looks thrilled with it. Love the subtle plaid and that collar is gorgeous but those pleats really make it a statement coat.

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  3. She looks very happy with the coat! Perfect!

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  4. What a gorgeous coat. The fabric is lovely. Well chosen by Jamie and well executed by you.

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  5. Beth this is beautiful. Love the fabric and the fit is spot. It is a great pattern, isn't it?

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  6. amazing! What a fashionable coat! Great work!

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  7. Looks great. Great fabric, beautifully sewn. Like you, though, double breasted is not for me - a single breasted version, well that's different.

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  8. Looks great. Great fabric, beautifully sewn. Like you, though, double breasted is not for me - a single breasted version, well that's different.

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  9. beautiful, beautiful, beautiful

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  10. It is beautiful. I want that pattern.

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  11. Oh, I love this! The styling is so fun!

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  12. Oh, I love this! The styling is so fun!

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  13. Beautiful coat, and the sewing looks impeccable. I also love the blue Burda coat you linked here - another impeccable garment - especially the photo of you, barefoot in it :)

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  14. Wonderful coat. I'm really impressed with the pressing you did on it!

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  15. This is just gorgeous. It looks wonderful on her - and the finish looks immaculate.
    I ordered this pattern last week. When I get a chance to make it I will be coming back to re-read your posts.

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  16. Wow. The coat looks so crisp and I love the collar. It's beautiful.

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  17. Gorgeous coat, model, and work(wo)manship!

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  18. Oh, Beth, this is beautiful! I love it so much! It looks amazing on Jaime and your workmanship is just so impressive!

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  19. It is PERFECT! I mean, the pleats, the matching, everything is gorgeous, The good news (for me of course) is that I have the pattern. One question: Did you have to alter the back length? I don´t know how tall is Jaime, but from my previous experiences with Pauline´s patterns I find (always after the piece is completed) that I should have lengthen it.

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  20. Beautiful job, The side pleats and the color make it very interesting.

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  21. Stunning coat and it looks beautiful on Jamie. Amazing job.

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  22. What a great coat. I like the pocket treatment. Now I have to make one...with lots of planning.

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  23. Absolutely stunning! This pattern is going on my list of potential coats for next Winter.

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  24. Amazing job Beth! The plaid matching, the tailoring!

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  25. You really showed your talent here...this coat is gorgeous!

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  26. That came out beautifully, Beth!

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  27. Superb job! I think I would have gone insane trying to match all the seams, but the end result is beautiful!

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  28. what can I say? beautiful work. love all the tailoring details. And thanks for reminding me for the second time today I should never forget to add a lining pleat...it makes all the difference! The collar is the thing I like the most about the pattern...funny, eh?

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  29. Beautifully made, love the fabric.

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  30. It's a stunner! It's perfect on Jaime. Everything about this is just perfect. I like that you show the inside it's very instructive.

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  31. What an awesome coat! I'm sure Jaime is thrilled with it!

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  32. Absolutely breathtaking - a stunning work of art - bravo!!! I adore this pattern, particularly the side pleats :) Your craftsmanship and plaid matching are perfection :)

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  33. Your work never disappoints. Keep up being so awesome.

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  34. Such an amazing jacket it looks so well made, I only aspire to be that talented one day. Jamie looks gorgeous wearing it and I'm sure she is so pleased. I know I would be! :)

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