Blazer season, vintage Vogue 1193 pattern repeat

Last month I was surveying my fabric stash and noticed this heavy weight cotton sateen that I've had for absolutely ages, and decided it would make a neutral blazer to wear with lots of my various tops. Yes, solid red is a neutral for me :)  I decided to repeat a pattern I had made earlier this year, in a too heavy wool tweed that might have been better suited to a coat pattern.  Also I was just about to begin my online Blazer making class, which is going well and everyone is conquering welt pockets. 

Here's a look at the pattern envelope. If you look at the technical drawings on patterns you can see the lines and details, and realize that so many patterns are basically the same as a newly released pattern. This one has the option of pocket variations and also a double breasted version which I might just try. 

I did change the patch pockets of Version A out for the welt pockets of Version D.

Here's a look on the dress form.

As you can see it is missing the button and buttonhole in the front. I didn't have a single button in my stash that would work, so I will leave it off for a while and see if I can find a nice one when I next go fabric shopping in Berkeley or SF.

Let's talk about welt pockets. When I'm teaching the jacket making classes I always say once you get the welt pockets completed it's smooth sailing from there on. Well that might not be exactly true, but I like to be encouraging. Plus a nice welt pocket does make the jacket look so sharp and I think mastering that skill gives you a lot of confidence to tackle the other steps. 

This fabric doesn't have much room for error, not like a nice wool tweed that is soft and pliable, but on the plus side it's not going to unravel. 

A look at the inside, I always make a thread ladder to show the pocket line on the front of the jacket as that is where you apply and stitch the pocket welts. The pocket pieces for the welts are something you can toss, I never use and just make my own, longer than needed and then cut down as I apply.

If you have an open toe foot for your machine it does make seeing where you are stitching a lot easier. 

And just to show that we all  make mistakes, these little folds of fabric can happen anywhere you are stitching, this was on the lower pocket lining and it was a quick step to unstitch and redo it. I think they also happen so often when sewing in sleeves as well, just a tiny bit of fabric gets folded as you are sewing along and it makes a pucker. 

Of course wearing my Ash jeans. I love that pattern! Just cut out a corduroy flare version with stretch corduroy from Minerva which is exactly the corduroy I had been searching for. 

I did put the back vent in this one, it seemed to go with the style and color. As usual I omitted the back facing and put the lining up to the edge of the collar.

Attaching the lining to the hem of the jacket and the vent were done with hand stitches. 

So that's the latest on this vintage pattern blazer. I just started to make a new coat for my friend Heather, in a beautiful camel colored wool from Britex so I will post about that project.

I have a few in-person and online classes scheduled between now and the end of the year. Including a couple of classes on fitting, Bodice Fitting Dec. 2 and Pattern Adjustment-Make-Fit a Test Garment on Dec. 3. I've listed all the upcoming classes on another page on this blog, at the top menu click on Sewing Class Schedule. The Bodice Fitting Class will also be an online version, on Sat. Dec 10 if that works for you.

It's actually coat weather - I wore my tricolor coat last evening and it was just right. 

My front garden revamp is finished so other than planting a few daffodil bulbs (around 70) I'm putting the planting aside and waiting for everything to burst into bloom in spring. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden photo, a few of these daisies still blooming, it's a bit patch which I plan to divide for more plantings.  Plus one of my bee friends visiting.