Friday, March 6, 2015

Burda Shawl Collar Coat 11/2014 # 111 in plum heathered wool

The calendar still says winter but it feels like spring around here - and yet  I have just completed one of the warmest garments I have ever sewn. This pattern grabbed me the moment I saw it despite the fact I have no need for another coat. I had this piece of wool bought at Stone Mountain about a year ago so I decided to give it a try. Note I bought the PDF pattern download from the BurdaStyle website, not the magazine pattern.

Burda Plum jacket front

Burda coat 111 shawl collar pattern
And I really wanted to make a full length coat but once I started cutting out I realized I had nowhere near enough fabric so it became a jacket not a coat. To compound that, I was this close to making a very major mistake - totally forgetting to cut out the facings. At least until I did my usual step back and do a little mental origami. I run through all the pieces on the table and "construct" the item in my head - and that is when I realized I had not planned to cut out the facings, which definitely show on this design. Whew!


Burda plum coat back

I didn't make any changes in the pattern - actually sewed it just as is. Oops one change, it had buttonholes marked about an inch above the waist seam but I decided it was a perfect design to make the in seam buttonholes, as I did on this other Burda jacket. Can you believe I found these buttons at Joanns? I just went in there thinking I might find something so I could finish it and maybe get better ones later but these are just right.

Burda Plum coat buttons


Burda plum coat collar

Interfacing on upper and under collar, plus all the way down the front. I also catch-stitched down those seams where the collar joins the coat so it would stay flat. This fabric was so thick and springy, it really needed a lot of trimming and grading.

Burda plum coat insideBurda plum coat seam trim

It was about 70 degrees this afternoon and I ran outside and took a pretty terrible iPhone timer photo so you can see how it looks on and how the collar falls. I think this will get plenty of wear next fall but for now it being put away in the closet with the other winter stuff!  my apologies to everyone in the snow zone.
Burda coat on me

The lining is ambiance rayon.

Burda lining plum coat
One thing I might need to change is to add something onto the hem edge, I should have put a seam finish there because it is raveling a bit. As you can see, I didn't sew the lining to the hem, kind of not the typical but I like a lining to be loose from the jacket or coat bottom, once in a while I attach it but mostly I don't.

Burda hem plum coat

One last look at the coat with the collar up. When I first posted the coat muslin I think there was a comment that it was a Fashion coat as opposed to a Winter coat. But I think it could be a very warm coat and you could easily put another button or other closure at the top. It is a very easy pattern and perfect for a beginner.

Burda plum coat collar up

So onto the next projects which might be pants, I really want to make some crazy print pants for spring. And just ordered some pineapple print denim from Girl Charlee. Summer is coming !!!

Happy Daylight Savings Sewing, Beth

and something in the purple range for today's garden photo, violas in violet.

viola violet

41 comments:

  1. Wow Beth!!! That is so beautiful!!!

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  2. Wow Beth!!! That is so beautiful!!!

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  3. That coat/jacket is so so nice. Love the colour and the texture is just right for the style. Perfect match with the buttons too!

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  4. Very nice! I love it as a jacket, Beth! And when you say that you don't need another coat... what is your point, exactly? ;)

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  5. It really looks beautiful. I'd very much like to make something of similar length for the end of winter here in Switzerland.

    How much fabric did you use?

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  6. It really looks beautiful. I'd very much like to make something of similar length for the end of winter here in Switzerland.

    How much fabric did you use?

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  7. Beth, the coat turned out marvellous, love everything! The shorter lenght is really appealing and what a great idea to make inseam buttonholes, they really work with this design!

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  8. Stunning work Beth. I have this pattern odder waiting me to cut,my our version just got me really excited to make it now. The buttons matched perfectly.

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  9. Gorgeous. Really gorgeous. This is the third or fourth one of these I have seen so I may make one myself. I love the shorter length and the in seam button holes (that looks very intuitive really).

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  10. The coat looks really great! The fabric and the form are fantastic :-)

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  11. Wow, this is stunning Beth! beautiful fabric and a beautiful design too. I LOVE it! and especially that gorgeous collar/neckline. That would be a snuggly warm wintery coat for our climate too; I'll have to check out that pattern. :)

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  12. I love this coat on you Beth! You did a great job those buttons are perfect! You're knocking your projects out so quickly… I hope it rubs off on me!

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  13. Gorgeous. Just wish I did not have to see your gorgeous weather. :) I have a ton of snow 16 inche s this week...I want to cry :(

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  14. Gorgeous. Just wish I did not have to see your gorgeous weather. :) I have a ton of snow 16 inche s this week...I want to cry :(

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  15. I love everything about this coat. Collar, color, everything. Now to retrieve this pattern from my stack of Burda's! Thanks for your constant inspiration.

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  16. I've been eyeing this coat since I received my Burda issue. Sadly I am in the snow zone in Massachusetts. We are still in the throws of winter. 5 degrees yesterday. After seeing your beautiful coat I may make this now. Hopefully it will be my last winter garment this year. Thanks for the inspiration.

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  17. Mental origami -- I need to remember that! I love this fabric -- the colors are so beautiful, as is the texture. The length works!

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  18. Ooh, it looks so touchable! It looks great on you with that dramatic collar.

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    1. Oops, this is Catherine M, your sewing student, I thought google would fill in the profile for me...

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  19. From the color to the style, this jacket is gorgeous and looks fantastic on you!

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  20. Love love love this! I thought about buying that Burda just for this coat pattern. And wow, is that fabric gorgeous - beautiful color and texture.

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  21. Looks warm enough at least for a California winter ;) what type of interfacing did you use? From the photos it looks you may have used two different types? Hope the weather stays just cool enough for you to get some wear out of it this year as it's such a lovely coat/jacket.

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    1. I used lightweight fusible weft for the under collar and coat front and then sheer elegance fusible for the upper layers, all from www.fashionsewingsupply.com their interfacings are pretty much the only ones I use as they are really good quality.

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  22. It's a stunning coat and very flattering. Good choice making in seam buttonholes. It's not only cleaner but It would have looked a little weird to have the button holes so close above the seam.
    I think that Burda has much better coats than any other pattern company. Just beautifully done.

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  23. Beautiful Beth! That fabric is gorgeous. I am very jealous you made this up actually as I loved all the patterns in this collection...shame they don't extend the sizes a little more. Anyway, fabulous work as ever.

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  24. Amazing coat and that collar is impressive.

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  25. Beautiful coat, I have this issue too but have not made anything of it yet. love the in seam buttonholes, I actually didn't know this technic but will definitely give it a try. About the hem, is it wigan that you have used or something different?

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    1. on the hem it is the same weft fusible interfacing as the under collar and jacket front, just in the black color instead of white.

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  26. That's gorgeous, Beth. I love the heathered fabric. Thanks for the inside shots.

    KathleenS

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  27. Stunningly beautiful! Love that fabric . . . definitely a winner!

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  28. Echoing everyone else: stunning, beautiful, fabulously sewn! I have this coat in progress too and I love the idea of the inseam buttonholes.
    Did you use the sleeve pattern as drafted? It seems a bit narrow to me.

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  29. Wow, Beth! What a gorgeous coat. That fabric is stunning! The blogosphere needs more photos of you in it, though!

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  30. This is beautiful! Love the design and color. I love all your construction details. It's looks great inside and out! And thanks for mentioning that you don't attach the lining at the bottom. I have a coat lining I've been meaning to replace and I'll keep that in mind. ;)

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  31. This is beautiful! Love the design and color. I love all your construction details. It's looks great inside and out! And thanks for mentioning that you don't attach the lining at the bottom. I have a coat lining I've been meaning to replace and I'll keep that in mind. ;)

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  32. Lovely fabric and patterns, I really like this in between length even if it was unintentional and the inseam buttonhole idea is brilliant. Interesting that you don't attach the lining at the hem, the times I have to unpick that stage because I've sewn it too short or too long

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  33. Oooh! That collar! And the fabric is delicious! I've never heard of inseam buttonholes- I always learn something new on your blog!

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  34. This is just beautiful. I've had my eye on this coat for a while, and seeing your collar up with the option of making it a 'functional' winter coat has moved this up the queue. Love all the innards and details. So lovely to see all the construction details!

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