Winter Plaid Jacket: Burdastyle 126 Nov 2023

Right after Christmas it was a gloomy weather weekend, just the time to stay in with a sewing project. However I didn't have anything in mind so I went through my stash of wools and came across this Pendleton plaid, 2 yards, which I had bought at an ASG stash sale last year. Because it was a very nice fabric and I couldn't pass it up for $ 4. 

In this case I was "influenced" by a post on Instagram, as I frequently look at the #burdastyle hashtag and I kept seeing the same post with this jacket in a green brocade that looked great. (Boo to the algorithm that shows me the same posts over and over again instead of new posts in chronological order, but I guess that complaint is old news now).  

This style is a bit different for me but with our very mild recent winters a lightweight wool jacket might be something I get to wear more than anticipated. The pattern went together really well and the plaid matching worked out perfectly. I do really hate to sew separating zippers, it's just my least favorite thing to do but I got over my fear on this one. 

I put a little fusible interfacing on the center front edge where the zipper is, I find that makes the zipper sew in more smoothly. And then the hand basting to get the plaids to match across the center front. The pattern has a button band which is applied after the zipper/lining are done, and I sewed it but then I just didn't like the way it looked. Although perhaps I will go back and add it, as I have saved it. Mostly the reason I skipped it is I didn't really have any good buttons in the stash and didn't feel like shopping for any. It does mean that the lining shows up at the top where the collar turns back but I think it looks OK. 

My favorite thing about this jacket is the plaid matching which I think is fun! Burda patterns have always worked out very well for me with plaids which I think is an indication of a well-designed pattern. 

To get the pockets to match perfectly I cut out the jacket pieces and then overlaid the pocket pattern pieces on the jacket front to draw in the grids, then cut out the pockets/flaps so they would match. 

The sleeves have a seam down the top of the arm to the wrist, and they matched well also. When in doubt use an even plaid, one that is equidistant squares so there is no shift across the plaid. I think I wrote a post for the Craftsy blog about plaid matching (I wrote so many articles for that site and most of them have vanished, a few are still there). Also on the blog here if you search plaid matching in the sidebar I have several posts with tips on working with plaids. 

The bottom of the sleeves on this jacket seemed a bit odd to me, I thought they had a cuff or maybe elastic but no they are just finished like a coat sleeve, which I guess works and is less to do. 

I am glad I tried this pattern, it's a nice change from my usual winter style of a blazer or coat. I could even see making it again in a lightweight version for spring/summer. 

Sewing classes:  I have a few classes coming up in the next months with Hello Stitch. A Chore coat class next weekend, Feb. 8-9 with a couple of spots left.  Sunday March 9 is my "how to read a pattern" class, which is a great intro to sewing patterns, choosing sizes, how to measure yourself, and then a bit on some basic bodice adjustments. Then on March 22-23 is a Shirt Class. Those are the links for more info and to register. 

Up next, I'm making a couple of things for Heather and perhaps a new pair of corduroy jeans for myself. 

This time of year I am in garden maintenance mode - there is an unending pile of fallen leaves to rake up and then lots of pruning, weeding and planning for spring. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

The first daffodils for today's garden photo. With many more to come. 

Zipper pocket Blazer for travel

In October I took a trip to Italy, a place I love and had not been to in quite a few years. Along with brushing up on my Italian all summer I did sew a few items to take on the trip. Top of my sewing list was a multi-purpose and all-season jacket I could dress up or down.  Once I decided to make a jacket I thought about fabric and then pockets - who doesn't love a plentitude of pockets when traveling? 

While at home I don't wear many garments of ponte knit but it is an ideal fabric for a travel wardrobe. I ordered some swatches from Mood and ended up using this fabric  which is their version and comes in a lot of colors. Way before I decided to make a ponte blazer for travel I had seen this Veronica Beard jacket (which they call iconic and travel ready). I loved the idea of the zipper pockets and saved it to my ideas board. Here's a look at the jacket after 3 weeks of travel and many times being folded into my suitcase when not needed. 

I am sold on this fabric for travel pieces. I also took denim jeans as well as a pair of ponte pants so I had travel outfits based on navy blue with plenty of different color tops and sweaters. I buttoned it so you can see the lapels and center front but I don't think I ever wore it buttoned like that. 

Looking at the ready to wear version it had several features that I really liked. Of course the zipper pockets, but it also had a peak lapel which I really like these days. But single breasted, not double. You very often see a peak lapel jacket which has that double breasted front (where the front edges cross over the center front line and have 2 or buttons horizontally placed. I didn't want that so I had to figure out how to change an existing pattern.  I used a pattern I have previously used here and here. The inspiration idea is from this jacket (images from their website)

So I went to work altering that quasi-vintage Vogue jacket pattern to have the peak lapel on the single breasted version. Now that I have made it twice I think the lapels are a bit skimpy in Versions A, B, C but perhaps that was the look then. 

Here's a look at the different lapels on the 2 versions, you can see there is a big difference in the lapel width and shape.  Below is my traced pattern  piece and the changes I made to blend the two versions. 

Actually this is a combo of info on my fit adjustments as well as the lapel design detail. I grafted the shape of the peak lapel onto the jacket front for Version A,B.C and then made new facings from that redesigned front. 

Instead of welt pockets I made a facing using lining fabric, and created a rectangular opening for the zipper, which I then basted into place and sewed in (after a LOT of basting to make sure it was in just the right place.) Then once both zippers were looking reasonably even and centered I stitched them in by machine. Then I created a pocket bag on the bag attached to the edges of the rectangle. That was later covered by the lining. 

At first it bugged my how the zipper pulls hang down instead of remaining horizontal but now I think it looks fine. These pockets did their job and I could go out to dinner without carrying an extra bag for sunglasses etc.  Here's a look at the jacket on the dress form before putting in the lining or hemming.  Once I had done the lining I got the idea to include more inside pockets, so I added breast pockets as well, they were also very functional but not very beautiful so I won't show you those :) 

This fabric presses really well and I did use a silk organza press cloth to prevent shine on the fabric. 

But it is also springy - the same feature that gives it the wrinkle resistance means you have to press it well to get the creases. I basted the lapel and then pressed it with steam to get a good crease. I used weft interfacing on the body of the jacket front and then knit fusible on the lapel and collar facings. 

I was really pleased with this jacket, it was the right weight for the trip. And the weather was strange in a global warming kind of way - much warmer in October in Italy than any other time I have been there. Which often required scarf and gloves at night and a wool jacket - but this trip it was really warm almost no sweaters required.  Here I am on a high tower overlooking the cathedral in Siena - it was a bit chilly that time although we warmed up quickly with aperitivi in the Campo. 

And just a week later in Florence it was back to short sleeve tops and barely a jacket required. Definitely odd weather but I wasn't complaining! 

Buon Anno a tutti!   Happy New Year to all. Thanks for reading and I wish everyone a great year with health, happiness, great travels and fantastic fabric choices!

Beth

Vogue 8997 dress, two versions

Time for more blogging on things I sewed in this past year. Back in August I taught an online class called "The Fitted Dress".  As I was making video content for this class I realized that a simple dress can have a lot more content than I had ever thought about. Creating even and crisp necklines, lining a sleeveless garment, invisible zippers, smooth princess seams etc. So this pattern gave me a lot of opportunity to show various techniques I use on lined dresses.  Plus I have had this pattern for ages and always wanted to sew it. Don't be surprised if I make another version next summer, I think in a dark denim with topstitching to highlight the seaming it would look really interesting and be a summer wardrobe winner.

This version was sewn up using a piece of fabric from my stash, I think it is a remnant from a long ago project that I made for a friend, so it is a textured poly trying to be a silk dupioni. An interesting color and it would make a nice party dress if I had an event to go to now, which I don't :). Actually I almost wore it to Frocktails this summer but opted for something else. Partly because I was tired of looking at it after filming several hours of video for the class!

I think the neckline front and back is very pretty, the full skirt version is very wide. I had a big piece of blue cotton gauze so I made that version first just to check it out.  Only the bodice is lined in a black cotton voile which gives a clean finish on the neck and armholes. 

Here's a look at both dresses on the dress form. I cut them out using the same bodice pieces, however I think on the red one I raised the neckline about 1/2" just to be able to show that technique of re-drawing the v-neck in my class. 

Over the past 4 years I've taught 15 different online classes, some of which we have run multiple times (jeans, button-front shirt, blazer techniques) and I thought I would show you a couple of screen grabs from the classes.

This one I am starting to show how I do the clean finish lining on the armholes of a sleeveless dress.

And in the following one I am closing up the shoulder seam to get that completely lined bodice.

One thing I have learned by doing online classes is how to use iMovie and edit video which is actually fun.

Here's a look at the neckline front and back. It can be tricky to get an invisible zipper sewn just right in a v-neckline and I was really happy with this one!

I took these pictures in June (blue version) and August (red version) and you can really see how things go in the garden around here, by August it is starting to get very dry and crispy with the blooms fading. I just put in some winter annuals yesterday but this time of year is all about trimming and cleaning up in anticipation of spring! Is it here yet?? 

Next up on the blog will be my ponte blazer with zipper pockets that I took on my trip to Italy. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

And a garden photo combined with a twirl of the blue dress. I miss summer 🌞. 

Chore Jacket: Burda 03/2023 # 104

This week I have some time to catch up on the blog so here is the first of what I hope will be a few posts on things I made these last few months. Although not in the order that I sewed them. It was a great summer with a few detours for some life issues that are resolved and also a fantastic trip to Italy in October. Now it's fall, my absolute least favorite time of year (*reasons I will detail at the bottom of this post :) but I did make this cotton jacket in the summer and now it's finally time to wear it. 

Also I'm teaching a class next weekend at Hello Stitch Studio to make a Chore Coat or Jacket so I think this pattern qualifies. 

The fabric is a brushed cotton that I got from a friend who was reducing her fabric stash. Just enough to make this jacket pattern which I have been eyeing for over a year. 

It's from March 2023 Burda Magazine, # 104.  They show it in the magazine in a suede, or faux suede and I really like the look. I have some ultra suede that someone gave me a while ago in both turquoise and a dark forrest green so I might make it again, probably the green. 

A look at the jacket on the dress form. There are no upper pockets, just pocket flaps sewn into the yoke. I like the shaping of this jacket a lot, as it has princess seams front and back so that gives a bit of shaping and makes it less boxy than a lot of chore style jackets. But the big lower pockets are very functional and I thought about adding some inside pockets, slightly smaller and invisible on the outside. I am all about the extra pockets lately - I made a ponte blazer to take on my trip that had a lot of pockets and it was so useful as well as sharp looking, I will post that one here soon. 

I'm not wild about the shape of the collar, somehow now that it is finished I think it would look better with rounded corners instead of pointed, so I will make that change if I sew it again. Also I didn't have a lot of matching thread so I saved what I had for the buttonholes and used a different color for the topstitching, I think it is grey?  

Not likely to wear it all buttoned up but just showing for completeness.  And another look at some autumn color which I have going on right now in my garden. But you can see in that photo above that I still have Meyer lemons ripening on the tree and in fact my orange tree will have a nice crop this year as well. 

** OK, why don't I like this season? Gets dark early, everything in the garden is crunchy and at the end of the line, it starts to get chilly, I would rather wear shorts and summer dresses than anything else....I can go on.  However - I do love making coats and jackets so there is that!  In fact I just bought a recent digital issue of Patrones Sewing Magazine because I saw a coat pattern I just might make. 

This upcoming weekend I will teaching the chore coat class so here's the link again if you are interested. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

Here's a lovely visitor I had this week in the garden, enjoying the sunshine and warmth on the river rocks. 

Sewn from Stash: Denim Skirt

Lately I have been trying to use up fabrics that are in my stash, so recently I noticed this remnant of dark denim that I bought at Stone Mountain Fabrics. They have a small remnant shelf and I often find something interesting there so I check first when I arrive at the store. This is a dark denim with gold sparkles, a 1 yard remnant, so initially I bought it with the thought to make a tank style dress.  But I don't need any more summer dresses so a denim skirt is way more useful in my wardrobe.

By the way - putting it here at the top of this post. I have a new online class starting next week, on Tues. July 9,  Fitted Dress Techniques. You can register at that link or see more details. I'll be talking about some bodice pattern adjustments, linings, invisible zippers, lots of ways that I sew in a different order than the pattern instructions, fitting as you sew, facings, necklines, sewing a clean finished sleeveless dress, and whatever else occurs to me as the weeks go. 

OK back to denim skirts.

I saw this pattern in a recent Burda Magazine and thought it looked familiar. So on a different quest through some old issues I noticed the twin pattern - or basically the same pattern, with different pockets. 

They are both the same style. Faced waistband, front buttons, no center back seam, 3 darts in back. The difference is in the pocket options. I liked the pockets on the 2009 version which are actually large pockets and not just decorative. So I traced that one out. But you could use the one in the 2024 version and add whatever patch pocket you wanted. 

I didn't do the sew-on front button band but instead used a foldover button band which is another option in that magazine issue. 

This skirt lends itself to one of my favorite sewing features, which is fit as you sew. (note I mentioned that above in talking about the new class. I do adjust patterns but I like to give myself some extra room and then fit as needed when the item is partially sewn together.) 

For this skirt I am about a Burda 42 in waist and 44 at hip. Since the pattern was up to size 44 I just cut out that size when I made the red version and then made some adjustments as I sewed it up. Then I noted those on my paper pattern pieces. However in the blue version I wanted it even slimmer so I took away a bit more of the ease and it still has plenty of room.  Below you can see the final stitching which is about 3/8" in from the original size 44 at the hip. 

I like this red version although it lends itself to white tops - or maybe a navy blue? anyway I will have to look around and see if I have anything else I can wear it with or perhaps make something new.  The fabric in the red skirt is a remnant that has been hanging around a while, here are the 2 posts where I originally used it. Jacket  and Jacket Express Class.  2013! I still wear that jacket and still think that is one of the very best patterns I have ever seen, in terms of instructions and construction. 

A better look at the skirts, with the photo lightened up a bit as it was too dark to see the details. I'm not so thrilled with the buttons but they were in my stash and will do for now. Perhaps some more interesting buttons to match the stitching? 

A look at the details on the red one, which shows there is no waistband, it just has a smooth waist with a facing, and 3 darts across the back. I think I will make this pattern again changing the center front button to a zipper fly but otherwise with the same details. That will save on making all those buttonholes and I am always ever so slightly fearful about a button front skirt - if you lose a button when you are out and about then what? a long jacket :)  

Hiding in the shrubbery. Not really, just wanted to show off the hydrangeas. That was the beginning and a week later they are absolutely covered in blooms. and then two more days later wilting in this heat. How hot is it?   See below.   That is under my patio cover so the hot air is trapped under there. Out in the real world it's only 106ºF today. ONLY!  And across the bay at the ocean it's about 70ºF right now. 

SF Bay area - every climate you could ever want :) 

Other classes with Hello Stitch Studio on my calendar. Check the links for details and to sign up. 

Sat. July 20      10am-3pm    Make a Knit Wrap Dress. A few spots left. 

Sun. Aug. 11   10am-3pm    Sew with Knits, Make a basic T-shirt. (2 spots left)

Up next, thinking about what to wear to Bay Area Frocktails at the end of this month. A new dress or not?

And I have some fall travel plans which might need a few capsule wardrobe additions. 

Stay cool and Happy 4th!

Beth

Last fall I pulled all the dahlia tubers from their pots and put them in the back half of the big vegetable planter. So evidently that was the right move as they are really blooming.

Remnants and Ruffles, a Summer Top

Recently I was rummaging through my fabric stash and came across a few small pieces that needed to get off the shelf and into my sewing machine. Whenever I go to Stone Mountain Fabrics in Berkeley my first stop is the remnant shelf. I found this rayon challis there last summer, I think it was labeled as 7/8 yard so I looked around my patterns to find something that didn't need much fabric.

This pattern is from the Burda June 2020 magazine. I think this same tank top shape is the basis for the jumpsuit and romper in that issue, as well as this top. I've made both the jumpsuit (link here) and the top  (link here)   That blue jumpsuit I've only worn once or twice - I think when the weather is suitable (warm) I tend to pick out one of summer dresses instead. As for the tops in the other post - when I made this ruffle one I think the ruffle was too narrow and it didn't really come out all that well. The other two tops shown in that post are long gone. That was in the first summer of the pandemic and I was just making any old thing to keep busy. Glad those days are behind us, hopefully for good. 

I love this royal blue color and maybe I can find some matching solid cotton to make a skirt. For now I can wear it with a denim skirt or as shown above with my Pauline Alice Mirambell skirt, which has the eyelet hem. (I need to make a dress with that treatment :). I love that skirt, it has great pockets and looks dressed up but is very easy to wear. 

Here's the images from the magazine. I think it needs the wider ruffle and also requires a soft fabric so that it drapes nicely instead of sticking out. Rayon challis is perfect and silk crepe de chine would be also. But how many of these tops do I need ?

Back view and also a look at my little Trader Joe's orchid which I bought last June as an accent for my newly remodeled bathroom. I decided it needed more light and so it now lives on this windowsill with morning light and is continuously blooming. Amazing to me, the first one I've ever had to bloom again. So I am not moving it!

So that's the latest on my recent sewing - I have made a lot of things in the last few months so I plan to do a few more blog posts. 

I have a couple of upcoming classes with www.hellostitchstudio.com 

Fitted Dress Techniques: ONLINE class starting on July 9.  In this class I will focus on princess seams, talk about some pattern adjustments, invisible zippers and how to painlessly add a lining which allowing you to fit as you go. 

Knit Wrap Dress:  IN PERSON class, July 20.  this one was by request and based on the popularity of the knit wrap dress patterns. Which are perfect for travel if you have a vacay planned. 

So all the details are in the links above and I hope to see you there. 

In other news, I bought my ticket for Bay Area Sewists Frocktails in July. And I can't decide if I should make a new dress (tempting!) or wear one of the zillions of dresses I already have. I think I'll wait a few weeks to decide.  

Happy Summer Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden picture - everything is in full bloom now, May and June are the best time in the N. California garden. Especially when the pink jasmine is in full bloom, the scent is heavenly!