Seeking the perfect shirt - first try with McCall 5522

After my last project, the women's shirt made from Liberty of London cotton fabric, I have it in my head to make myself a silk blouse or two.  I have a couple of purchased blouses in silk charmeuse which has a touch of lycra and they feel good to wear.  So I figured I should test out a pattern, or two or three, until I find something just right to use before I cut into some lovely silk.


This is my first test with McCall's 5522 which I think is out of print but probably available.
The fabric I bought last summer at Joann's, turned out to be a "what was I thinking" but usable. I was distracted by the colors and the geometric print, less than enamored with the slippery shiny poly-ness of it.  But it makes a good stand in as a test fabric for a silk charmeuse shirt.

Here is the pattern envelope, you can't really see the seaming in this print, but it has quite a few pattern pieces.  I liked that it has a stand collar, and the collar itself is a nice shape.  I am not so crazy about that underbust seam and the princess seam below. Perhaps in a cotton lawn or a sheer georgette fabric it might work out better. But then probably not something I would wear.   I had very little fabric, so made do with short sleeves.  Maybe because there is no stretch in this fabric, and I am getting very used to having a touch of Lycra in almost every fabric, but it seems a tiny bit tight across the upper back.  I think I will try another shirt pattern, probably one with a darted front and more easy fit will be better for charmeuse.

For the collar I used a technique that I posted about some time ago, which was a new to me method for attaching the collar and stand to the shirt. It worked like a dream and I have used every since.  Here is that post., shown on a cotton shirt I made for someone else.

This is how I will wear it this winter, sort of a homage to my dear dad, who was a cashmere sweater and saddle shoes kind of guy. Not a fancy dresser, mostly a traditionalist, with a liking for Harris tweed, freshly polished shoes and someone who really noticed the fabrics in clothes.  I happened to have the perfect color cashmere sweater in my drawer- now where are my saddle shoes?