The black denim jacket, final version, Part 2

Yesterday I did a post titled black denim jacket, final version however I ran out of time for blog writing so here is the real final version. In that post I have links to some of my previous posts with details on how to copy an existing garment and make a pattern. It is a really useful skill, particularly as it gives you a fitting shortcut since the original item usually has the fit you want. Even if you don't recreate exactly you can learn a lot by making a pattern from clothes you already own in terms of proportion and shape.

This is exactly what I wanted in a lightweight denim jacket, something to wear with black pants or prints that included black. I like that the fabric is not a solid but has slight charcoal grey tint and a linen-ish weave. Plus a touch of lycra which is nice as this style is very fitted so the lycra makes it very comfortable and not too tight across the shoulders. I wore this jacket on my vacation to Hawaii where you don't need a jacket in September but I always need something on the plane or airport since the AC is cranked up to ridiculous levels (to me who is always cold).

As I mentioned in the previous post, I made this pattern from an existing RTW jacket that I had in my wardrobe. I made the pattern from that jacket and actually sewed this very fast because the hem length, sleeves etc. were all done exactly as the original, so no measuring, no fitting, just quick sewing and a bit of topstitching. 

Here is the original jacket that I used to create the pattern. The blue denim fabric is a bit heavier and so it holds its shape on the dress form but when worn they look pretty much the same. I never button it, not that type of jacket but it looks nice here so I did. 

Back view of new jacket. You can really see the fabric with all the slubs that make it different from plain denim. 

The original jacket had welt pockets and then pocket flaps that were sewn on above the welts. Which seemed like an odd way to do it, but actually is good because often with thick fabrics and a lot of layers, the pocket flap does not want to lay flat on a welt pocket. So the welt pocket is finished and then the flap is sewn about 1/4" above the welt. 

I did have one oddball issue during construction. I put the sleeve on and it seemed kind of twisted, so I shifted the sleeve head, moving what I thought was the top of the sleeve about 1/2 inch forward. 

In image below, sleeve on left, not shifted and sleeve on right is shifted. Problem solved! I will chalk that up to slight issue with my patternmaking or marking. But happily not a big problem. 

A look at the inside, unlined and all seams serged. I played around with the pockets on the inside and did a bit of improvisation, turning the seam allowances inside so there were no raw edges on the pocket bags.

Lastly the buttons. I think they cost more than the fabric for the jacket but that is OK, I am still under about $ 25 total. I brought my fabric swatch over to Stone Mountain and was looking at all the possible buttons but couldn't decide on anything. One of the women that works there came over and took a look at my choices, thought none of them were working and pulled out their latest shipment they had not even put on the shelf. She dug through the box for this exact button and insisted I use them (in the nicest possible way).  So almost $ 16 for buttons but I am very glad I bought these which are an interesting shade of brushed metal. 

That is the last item for summer sewing, to me the weather is turning chilly (OK I know that is a relative term for all of you in the great northwest or east, not to mention Canada or parts of Europe). So time to change gears and pull out some wools. Confession: I just bought a nice wool tweed at Stone Mountain in a kind of pale plummy mixture, and so far have auditioned a number of patterns from my stash but so far no decisions. 

Happy weekend sewing, Beth

Today's garden photo is gardenias. A big planter box next to the front porch of my house holds 3 bushes so the smell is intoxicating as you come up to the front door. The gardenias in both the front yard and the few scattered around the back bloom profusely in the spring, kind of retreat in the super hot summer months and then go wild again in autumn.  More blooms to come, at least for the next month or so. Intoxicating!