Saturday, February 22, 2014

Final version: V7975 wool jacket with Avoca handwoven fabric from Ireland

Hello and welcome to so many new readers this month. This project was finished a week ago but I have been slow with my blog posts despite intentions in 2014 to post more often. In any case here is Vogue 7975 made with vintage handwoven wool fabric from Avoca Mills in Ireland. (note: this jacket is not for me, for one of my sewing clients)

Looking at this photo I see a need for a bit more pressing which I have done after I took the pics. This is such a great pattern, very easy to fit and I recommend it if you are wanting to try a first lined jacket. I did stray from the pattern design a bit and lined to the edge instead of any facings, mostly because this wool has the potential to be so itchy and I prefer lining against the neckline.
jacket front4

Whew, it is hard to photograph this color and have it look the same in each image. I am basically a rotten photographer and also very impatient when it comes to taking photos. I have read lots of blog posts about improving your photography - and one recommendation is always to take many many pictures so as capture the one very best one. However I am way too impatient for that and usually snapping away at the end of a project where I want to be done!  After all taking photos reduces sewing time, right? 

Do you love these buttons?  I do, they are just right. Thanks again to Stone Mountain in Berkeley, and their lovely wall of buttons. I took the finished front piece with me so that I could actually see the buttons in the buttonhole and how they the shape and size worked with it. I had intended to make smaller buttonholes but this was as small as could be done in this very ravel-y and springy wool.

close up buttons pocket
I said ravel-y and yet it was a pain to get that fringe to separate. This is one tough wool. 

Inside of buttonholes. There are a lot of variation on bound buttonholes but I prefer the one with the least layers, if that makes sense. So no windows or squares cut. I sew on the welts, slice, turn, and then make the full lining. The very last step is to slice the lining and turn and hand stitch. Using this method you can control exactly were the lining is joined to the buttonhole, I think if you made little windows in the lining and they were not exactly centered over the buttonhole then what? I don't know as I have never tried it. Looking back through my previous blog posts I have not shown the step where I attach the lining so I will have to document that next time I do it. For more details on bound buttonholes here is a post with the steps shown. 

buttonholes both sides

View of lining. It does look a bit bigger but that is intentional in this very fitted jacket, I often make the lining with a smidge more room than the outer layer to allow for a bit of movement. 

inside jacket lining

Side and back view.  Please ignore that big crease in the lower back. Ok now I am chagrined but I did press after these photos. However also note the great lines in this pattern, such perfect fitting sleeves and the princess seams allow for so many fitting options. 

jacket side jacket back

One tiny tip for making patch pockets. As you may know I love my Chalkoner chalk markers and I like to make templates from pattern pieces, and then trace the seam line to make for super simple sewing.
So I made a template from the pocket pattern piece, including the seam allowance and them trace the line so I could attach the lining by sewing on the chalk line and get a smooth even balanced pocket.

pocket template


Here are links to the previous posts on this jacket:


I made this same Vogue 7975 pattern back in October in plaid for myself, so if you want to see a different version and some details on working with plaid, here is the post. I wore this version a lot back in the fall but it was eclipsed by my wool herringbone tweed Burda jacket which is more of a neutral color so can be worn with more outfits. 

Up next some simple and happy sewing, t-shirts and other separates which are so much more useful than a sparkly plaid jacket, right?  I just got an order of super cute knits from Girl Charlee so I am itching to get started on those.

There has been a woeful lack of garden photos and I fear that this year will be a low point for my garden. Despite a bit of storm last week it is dry, dry, dry. No rain and nothing but sunshine. Which may sound good if you are suffering in the latest polar vortex but we will be in trouble this summer. In any event there are daffodils and a few tulips just starting. Also I have a new pet. OK, not really as I am wildly allergic to cats and only like to see them from a distance but for the last month this guy has been putting in a 9-5 day on my garden furniture with occasional attempts at gopher hunting. I wish he would catch that darn gopher which has eaten all my pansies in the front yard. I just makes me laugh to see him out there snoozing on his apparently favorite chair and drink water out of the bird bath.

cat in daffodils

Happy almost spring sewing,  Beth

29 comments:

  1. Oh, this turned out so beautiful. The threads in the fabric create such a good visual. That bound buttonhole is done impeccably. I have to practice for hours before attempting. The first project I made with bound buttonhole was a fraying mess. Yours are beautiful.

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  2. This is absolutely gorgeous -- what a great job -- I love princess seams of all kinds as well!

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  3. What a great great jacket. I love everything about it, is is just perfect!

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  4. Your jacket is beautiful and a testament to all your hard work. Just beautiful workmanship and as ever a great post which has so many gems in it. Btw did you get the mail I sent you?

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  5. Very pretty and classic. You'll wear that forever!

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  6. Beautiful jacket! Your client will be very happy I'm sure.

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  7. You did a beautiful job on your jacket, it looks absolutely RTW.

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  8. Your jacket is absolutely gorgeous - I love the detail on the pockets as well as the buttons. Very smart.

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  9. Gorgeous and what a wonderful shade of blue. Enjoy wearing it!

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  10. Gorgeous, Beth! That wool is quite something - I'm entranced by the texture and the varying colours hiding in that weave from your closeups. The trim on the pocket is so sweet! I'm with you on reducing the bulk - I do the same thing with the lining because I just can't wrap my head around doing all the work to then not have it lined up. And THEN WHAT? Ack. You couldn't have got a better match on the buttons - perfection!

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  11. So many enviable little details- love the fringy pockets and the gentle tapering of the waist. Nicely done!

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  12. Your jacket is stunning in every way. Thanks for all the detail pictures and information on the bound buttonhole. I will reference your method and look forward to the lining pictures. Have fun with your knits and I hope it rains your way soon.

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  13. That is a beautiful jacket and so well made.

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  14. Wow, that is just a gorgeous jacket. Where did you get the Avoca wool? I had a look online but couldn't find it for sale anywhere.

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  15. That jacket is AMAZING. love the fringe on the pocket!!

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  16. Such a beautiful jacket! Your client will be thrilled. I haven't made bound buttonholes in years. You have inspired me to try them again! Thanks for sharing.

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  17. Gorgeous jacket!!! I love the fringed pockets and the buttons. And the color. Everything about it!!!

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  18. I'm in awe of your bound buttonholes. What a beautiful fabric too.

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  19. You inspire me....and thanks for the garden picture which I always look forward to!

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  20. Beautiful jacket -- the color is really stunning. I think that cat has adopted you!

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  21. Beautiful and such a gorgeous color! Your details are perfection.

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  22. Perfection indeed!! Thank you so much for sharing, this jacket is AMAZING!!

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  23. Absolutely gorgeous jacket and I do love that pattern. I would love to see how you handled the lining to the edge in particular the corners at the neck edge/centre front.

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  24. Your jacket is absolutely beautiful. Such beautiful lines and your buttons are awesome.

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  25. Absolutely beautiful work! Your finishing is superb :)

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  26. That is amazing - so, so beautiful! I bet that is going to be a hard one to let go!

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  27. Beautiful jacket! I've enjoyed so much reading the posts of your progress, and picking up some jacket tips along the way! ;)

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