Friday, June 22, 2018

Burda 6456 top in silk chiffon

Is it ruffle? A flounce? Whatever you call that detail it worked out really well for this silk chiffon fabric that had a bit of a shaky start. I've been wanting to make something with this type of flounce for quite a while and I had always liked a particular Burda magazine pattern 05-2017-109. But maybe not enough to buy the PDF and print/tape etc. So one day when Burda envelope patterns were on sale and I was scouring the pattern catalog for hidden treasures I came across this one, which is Burda 6456. Slight difference as it has a set in sleeve and the magazine pattern has raglan seaming but the same general idea. So thank you Burda for a printed pattern :) which makes things so much easier.

This pattern is ideal for silk chiffon, and as it happened I had ordered this silk on a whim from Fashion Fabrics Club on a whim, I think it was quite inexpensive but when it arrived I loved the color and the feel of it.

pink silk top3

Pattern love on this one. Quite easy to sew and silk presses so well that the edge on the flounce was not too difficult. I (briefly) thought about trying the narrow hem foot but really that is just about impossible to use on most fabrics and even more tricky on curves. Or maybe you can get it to work but I admit that foot is my sewing achilles heel. (ha ha bad joke intended).  No matter - didn't need it.

Slightly wacky print. Is it just an abstract? or some variation on leopard print rendered in deep pink and blue? Anyway that pink is one of my favorite colors.

silk ruffle top close up

Here's the pattern envelope. I could see making the flounce version but with long sleeves for the winter. It has just enough of a collar to satisfy my "I need something on the back of my neck or I will be cold" requirement.


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But this top had a bit of a circuitous route to get here. I started making a shirt from a winter Burda magazine, I forget which one, maybe Feb. The shirt that had the diagonal darts along the center front button band, but after about 2 hours of construction realized the details were disappearing in this fabric and it wanted to be something way more flowy and not structured. SO recut! I used the sleeves to cut the flounces, used the remaining uncut yardage for the front, fortunately there was some so I could have this do-over. The back was cobbled together with the back pieces from the first-try pattern and all in all it came out OK.

Here's the first version, partially done. And just why did I start with this fabric? It needs something way more crisp, a nice cotton shirting will be better and I will revisit in the fall.

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And the back, you can see the seam across the center, the original blouse had that waist seam front and back, but I think in this busy print it is fine.


silk ruffle top back view

Side view. This pattern does have a bust dart which give some shaping. I cut a size 38 which is my usual top size in Burda and added a bit in the hips, which I always do. I wanted it to be loose and flowy.

silk ruffle top side view

And I did cut the armholes in a bit, and then did a bias binding with the same fabric. Do you love doing bias binding with silk fabric? - it's one of those things that give me sewing pleasure.


pink silk top2

These pictures were taken weeks ago, the weather was lovely - then we had a return of "not spring" for a while, and tomorrow will be full on summer with temps in the 100's ℉. Yeah, summer is here now! And my expression is saying - hurry up with the picture taking because happy hour with vino and pizza is happening behind me.

But I can hang around for just another minute with the giant red pots. Wow those would be fun to have in my garden although once they were put in place I expect they stay there forever.

pink silk top with planters


Tomorrow is a Skirt class at Hello Stitch and then June is almost over. They are closed the week of July 4 but when they return from that vacation break we have all kinds of fun classes. Garment Copying (July 22) is really popular so we are offering that again. Same with Pattern Fitting: Adjust the Bust, that will be offered again (July 15).
A couple of dress classes coming up as well, our Bondi dress class (Aug 12) and a Sew a Wrap dress class (Aug 4, where you can use any wrap dress pattern you like).
And a new class I have created, Pattern Hacks: Add New Elements to your Patterns (July 28). I know some people object to the pattern hack terminology and others embrace it fully - I'm kind of in the middle but it does perfectly describe what I will cover - how to change up your existing patterns and get more mileage and looks with your existing patterns. Totally do-able! and very efficient when you think about doing that instead of starting with a new pattern. Hope to see you there.

Social sewing news: Last Friday I had the opportunity to meet an east coast sewing blogger in person. Renee, whose blog is missceliespants.com was on vacation and covering California from LA to SF and many stops in between. A group of us met at Britex and ogled the luxury fabrics and then marched down to the Palm Court at the Sheraton Palace (led by @naughtybobbinpatterns, our pied piper of champagne) for bubbly and conversation.

Meetup in SF

L to R: Shams (communing with fabric blog), me, Renee the vacation girl, and Pauline, also knows as Queen of Stripes (@sewuthinkyoucan on Instagram)


Have a great weekend and happy summer sewing,
Beth

today's garden photo - a bright pink dahlia. This one is about 4 feet high and still growing.


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14 comments:

  1. It looks great! you’d never think that delicate fabric had been something else first either.

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  2. This blouse is very beautiful! I love the color,it's also a favorite of mine. I also like putting in bias binding, it makes such a nice finish. Happy sewing!

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  3. Beautiful shirt. I can't remember who, but some recently posted that they have 2 styles of rolled hem feet and one works and one does not. It probably is your foot and not you. I need to give mine a try.

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  4. Love the print. Such a great colour on you. A perfect top for summer.

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  5. I love it! And no, silk bias binding does not give me sewing pleasure. It gives me sewing hives. But maybe the lack of success I have with it is due to attitude. ;)

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  6. I think you made the right call avoiding the 5/17 blouse. I made that one, and it came out way too elongated lengthwise, like maybe it was actually a tall pattern mislabeled as petite? It's so pretty, but such a weird fit! Your top looks great, and the fit is perfect too :)

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  7. I love that top! Really love the ruffle/flounce :)

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  8. The new blouse looks absolutely great on you!

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  9. Beautiful pattern. This is something I will have to try. For more sewing awesomeness https://bit.ly/2N50VNz

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  10. Great looking blouse! I have this fabric, from the same source. Love the colors.

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  11. Beth, your top is absolutely lovely! I am so in love with the way you styled it… Very casual chic! Isn’t it so much fun when you can actually meet bloggers in person?!

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  12. Love this top! The flounce, the fabric, the flowyness. I have this pattern in my stash, and some silk just begging to be sewn up, so I think I'll make one for myself too! Cheers!

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