Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Vogue 7975 jacket in metallic boucle for a friend

A few months ago I was in Stone Mountain Fabrics in Berkeley with my friend Halyna and we were, as always, thoroughly checking out the upstairs bargain area. We came across this metallic boucle fabric, I think it is some designer remnant (which is a lot of what they have there).  We both wanted it but I showed great restraint and did not purchase, however she couldn't resist so I gave her my advice on how much is needed to make a jacket. By the time we left the store I had said I would cut it out for her since the cutting out on this type of fabric is the trickiest part. You can guess the rest and I actually sewed it, since she was busy with other pre-vacation sewing. She's just started sewing last spring (!) and is quite amazing, and is now on her way to a fully handmade wardrobe.

H wearing plaid jacket 1

Halyna in her hometown of Lviv, Ukraine. Her instagram is @zigzagsewing

We debated about putting trim, or fringe, or even buttons but in the end decided on only simple patch pockets and no closures at all. After all with this type of jacket that fits like a cardigan I find you rarely button it up. So in this picture it is pinned closed (to show the plaid matching across the front) but in the end it had no snaps or buttons.

H plaid jacket on form front

For the pattern I used this tried and true Vogue jacket pattern. It's the same pattern I used for my own jacket a few years ago,  eek those pictures are goofy looking. And actually I rarely wear that jacket. I never seem to have quite the right shirt to wear with it.  I'm sure this pattern is still available. Recently on IG I suggested that Vogue patterns reprint some of these older (excellent) patterns that they haven't discontinued with new cover art - they would probably attract attention again.

V7975 pattern envelope

This fabric wants to unravel the minute you touch it with the scissors. I cut each piece single layer, just cut one out, mark the wrong side with a piece of blue painter's tape, then flip and cut the 2nd of the pair. Then lay it on the fabric, aligning the plaids, and cut the next adjoining piece. Until I go all around the jacket. With luck they should all match up 😉. I do start with the center front.

Cutting out plaid

Fabric closeup

I do regret not block fusing the whole thing with lightweight interfacing before cutting out. That would have helped with the unraveling and just given this slightly delicate fabric some more strength. It wasn't intended to be a full-on hand stitched style French jacket - just the look of that style but a quicker version. This image above gives you the best view of the color, it's actually very much shades of dark blue and then that one gold weave.

H wearing plaid jacket 4

I really like it with the white shirt - will have to try that with my jacket.

A couple of views of the sleeve. This pattern is really amazing, if you follow the notches and horizontal markings when you cut out it really matches perfectly just about everywhere, including the sleeve.

H plaid jacket side view on form

H plaid jacket side view sleeve closeup

I think we took the sleeve in to be more narrow, have a more fitted look.

H plaid jacket back on form

I also took it in a bit at the waist area in the back, which I think threw off my plaid there a tiny bit but I can live with it.

In fabric like this there is no point is cutting notches or triangles, they just disappear in the developing edge fringe - so I mark all notches and dots with a high-contrast thread tailor's tack.

Plaid matching

In the upper part of the photo above you can see the jacket front is interfaced, I think I used the lightweight weft interfacing, but I do wish I had fused all pieces with something. In any event, it was a bit too floppy at the center front, so I went back and put another layer of interfacing there, plus some black silk organza to give it more body. That was enough.
The lining is a navy blue bemberg rayon - my favorite interfacing that I use on most everything.
I machine sewed the lining up to the edge, no facings, and then turned, trimmed and pressed.  I also understitched all around however the edged still wanted to curl a bit, I think all those various fibers that make up the boucle have a mind of their own, (not like a nice wool that presses when you want it to).

H plaid jacket inside neckline

H plaid jacket inside stitching

To counteract that problem I hand stitched inside with a running stitch that attached the lining to the seam allowances inside, about 1/4" from the edge and that was enough to keep everything flat.

H wearing plaid jacket3

H wearing plaid jacket 2

So that's the latest on my unselfish sewing, which is not over! I am just about to make a new tunic top for my mom as she has a big birthday coming up and requested a new outfit for the party. Which is not until July so I have plenty of time.

I have sewed up all my various samples and examples for upcoming classes at Hello Stitch Studio and will start soon on the Jasika Blazer. There are just 2 spots left in that class which is Sept. 13-15. Although you can sew any jacket pattern that suits you - I'm going to show all kinds of sewing tips that apply to jacket sewing generally. Yesterday I finished a version of the Myosotis dress, that pattern is ideal for all kinds of hacks and can be really versatile (class is on July 14). All the classes can be found here.

Otherwise I've just finished a real pattern puzzle of a dress from the Burda April issue - that one had a LOT of stuff I want to make - just add them to my ever-growing list of summer wishes.

But now it's time to go for an evening swim - third day in a row that we are having triple-digit weather in my corner of the bay area.

Happy Sewing, Beth

This time of year there are so many flower photos to choose from, although things are looking a bit limp by around 7pm. Lots and lots of extra hand watering required. So stand there with the hose and daydream about all the patterns I want to make :)

And we have dahlias already! A benefit of living in a mile climate I guess, this one is already about 3 feet tall. Actually I usually take up the dahlia tubers in the fall, not because of the cold but because they tend to rot in the soil with the rain. Then I replant when see small sprouts growing on the tubers. But this one escaped me and actually started growing in late February so it had a head start on everything.



  1. This is beautiful - I have that pattern in my stash but the thought of trying to find fabric and the unravelliness of said fabric stresses me out. This post has given me renewed hope that one day, maybe, I will make myself a gorgeous jacket like this. Your lucky friend!

  2. Lucky friend! What a lovely jacket in beautiful fabric.

  3. I have this pattern and a beautiful pink tweed bouclĂ© and it’s in the que next! Your post was very helpful (I had not thought to cut individual pieces or to interface...but I will now)..can you provide more detail on how to cut the sleeves in order for the sleeves to “line up” when sewn?

  4. Beautifully made jacket. This kind of jacket looks so good with casual clothing, you need to make yourself one too.

  5. Beautifully done and it has a nice Chanel vibe - don't you think?
    You did a marvelous job with the plaid matching. Unlike most people, I like to match plaids. As long as you purchase sufficient material it's a fun challenge. It's rather like putting a puzzle together and the result is lovely.

  6. Beautiful work as always and a masterclass in how to!

  7. I just traced 2 patterns from 4/2019 and yes, there are MORE that I'd love to have.


    The boucle is just perfect and it has just enough structure but the right amount of softness...I love it.

  8. What a generous friend you are! Gorgeous fabric and finished jacket, I really like the look of these kind of jackets with jeans.

  9. Very well done in making this jacket, there is also an excellent class on Bluprint called the Iconic Tweed Jacket that demonstrates how to make this, but in true couture fashion and with all the hand stitching that entails! Lorna does go into how to match up the plaid though which I found extremely helpful. The pattern is still available and one is winging its way to me at present.

    Again excellent work and your friend is lucky to have someone willing to make her one of these jackets :-)

  10. Beautiful jacket and lovely fabric! I, too, have this oldie-but-goodie pattern which I've sewn a dozen times! Like you think they should reprint it with a jazzier cover.

  11. Beautiful and simple. I have that pattern, but have never made it. She is a lucky woman to have you as a friend.

  12. Lovely jacket , I also have been doing some sewing fir friends . Mother of the groom dress .i enjoy it as it us something I would normally never make and it’s great to tickle the neurones .the jacket is lovely and the recipient obviously loves it and it’s great to have inspired her to keep on improving her skills

  13. Love this jacket! I've used that pattern several times, for clients and for myself - I agree, it's a classic. Your post is inspiring me - I have two pieces of beautiful boucle lounging in my stash that would make fabulous jackets like this - and would satisfy my classic dressing style while being just a bit casual as well. I love bemberg rayon lining as well - but wonder what to do for an ongoing source, since I learned recently from Sawyer Brook Fabrics that Logantex is discontinuing their Ambiance lining (along with Hang Loose and Hang Free, their static-free polyesters). Any ideas?