Monday, January 20, 2020

Shirt fit details: Vogue 9029

Lately I've sewing only from my Burda magazines, but I do have quite a stash of envelope patterns. Some used frequently, and others never even opened. I got a copy of Vogue 9029  at a Bay Area Sewists pattern swap, and decided to give that a try. Actually this was a bit of an audition for some silk fabric that I've had since the spring. I wanted to see if a different blouse pattern might be good and while I didn't end up using this Vogue pattern for the silk I will probably return to it in the future, with a few fit adjustments.

As befits a test garment, not exactly very interesting photos but sufficient to talk about the details of this pattern. It has shoulder princess seams front and back, a sewn on button band, collar stand and collar. The pattern also has options for ruffles on the cuffs, a ruffle along the button band, and a tie bow in place of the collar and stand.

dot shirt 4

I used some nice weight cotton that I have no idea the origin, perhaps I bought it at an ASG sale last year? in any case it was about 2.5 yards so enough for a shirt.

Here's a look at the pattern details.

Vogue 9029 pattern envelope

I started with a size 12 in the neck and shoulders which is my usual size in Vogue patterns and then graded out at the waist and hip to fit my measurements.

V9029 pattern adj

Here is the pattern piece for the side front. Note that the pattern lists the finished garment measurements on the pattern piece. On any Vogue/McCalls pattern these numbers are on the front piece, or if it is a multiple piece front (such as on princess seams) it usually is on the side front. I find them SO useful, particularly with princess seams, you can just see at a glance the circumferences. Occasionally I've measured them to check and they are accurate (note you have to deduct seam allowance from each pattern piece to get the finished garment measurement which is tedious so I just tend to believe them :)
Another note -and something I repeat in my sewing classes, these measurements are based on accurate sewing of the seam allowance. So in a multi seam garment if your stitching wobbles around and the seam allowance is not consistent you can gain or lose circumference. A change of 1/4" multiplied by several seams is a big difference. Ok that's enough lecturing.

Looking at the finished measurements and not wanting a body skimming shirt I added ONLY at the side seam of the Front Side and Back Side pieces. Giving myself about an extra 2" circumference at the hip. For myself I find the fit will usually be fine in the upper body so I just sew all seams as size 12 and add this fit insurance on the side seam only. If I were substantially adjusting a pattern, say adding 5-6 inches in various places then I would distribute that among the various seams but for this type of garment and this amount of difference I find for myself this method works. And makes the sewing SO much easier.

dot shirt 2

Fit-wise that worked out fine. You might be able to see that I haven't hemmed this shirt, plus the sleeves are a bit long. As I was making it I decided I didn't need another blue/white polka dot shirt as I already have this one so I decided to leave it partially finished and give it to a friend who could hem etc. to fit her. By the way I don't think I am a shirt with bow person, I always feel a bit silly with shirts like this even though I like the idea of them.

Back to fit analysis: the issue I had with this pattern is the width of the shoulders. Looking at the photo above, and as soon as I tried it on I felt the shoulders were too wide and the armhole seam wasn't in the right place for me.

shoulder width comparison 2

Comparing it to another shirt which has a fit I like, I found that the distance from sleeve to sleeve across the back was 1.25" wider in the Vogue pattern. The bright pink shirt is this one from last winter. For that shirt I used my Simplicity 2339, a pattern that is going on maybe 20 uses? Bargain!!
Anyway - it is so interesting to compare shapes and measurements on what look like very similar items.

And here are the two shirts both on the same dress form. The pink shirt is stretch silk charmeuse and I don't think that ever photographs well - but it is dreamy to wear.

Shirts Shoulder width comparison 3

See, now that I've pointed it out you can see that the sleeve seam is falling off my shoulders. I mean it's not the worst fitting issue but something that I noticed and not a big deal to adjust for the next version.

dot shirt 1

Dot shirt front and back on form

Front back view, this pattern has potential and I think I will adjust the shoulder width and sew it again one of these days. Plus this fabric is such a nice shade of blue.

dot shirt collar and bow

And here is my friend Halyna (who is @zigzagstitching on IG) wearing this shirt which I had to remind her needed hemming - she was ready to wear it immediately as she is crazy for polka dots.

H in dot shirt

So that's the latest on this pattern, which I will return to one of these days. Perhaps in a cotton lawn in the spring.

And what about "my precious" which is this silk from Stone Mountain that I've been hoarding in search of the perfect shirt pattern. I cut it out this weekend using my trusty Simplicity 2339 😊. And have a bit of a saga even with that variable in the mix. More on that in a future post.


Happy Sewing,

today's garden photo - we have a new bloom! The messy camellias which sort of annoy me most of the year are starting to put out these luscious flowers. The color is so lush and velvety. And they are so messy when the flowers fall.  At least the bees love then, full of sticky nectar.



  1. Such great fabric and it looks lovely on Halyna (you’re a very generous friend!)

  2. So I did notice the shoulders in the first photo, but I'm very sensitive to shoulder fit on my own makes. Even with the too-large shoulders, I didn't think the fit was too bad. I was very surprised, though, that they were a full 1.25" too wide; I would have guessed less than that. Thanks for posting this; I enjoy unpacking fit analyses in garment making. (And I also tend to use only side seams to adjust circumference in a princess-seamed garment).

  3. Very interesting post. Shoulder fit is just so important I all goes south from there.

  4. Every time I read one of your posts I learn something new. Thanks for sharing.

  5. It does look really great on Halyna so that's awesome that all of your work wasn't in vain.

    I am loving that silk print. It's GORGEOUS!!!

  6. You are a good friend because it looks good on Halyna. Nice of you to pass it on!

  7. Both shirt are beautiful. The length of the shoulder seam is something that I struggle with. Many are just too long for me. Anyway, two pretty shirts, and Halyna is a happy lady. ;-)