Burda wool blazer with patch pockets 03/2024 No. 106

Back in cold and rainy February when it seemed that spring was far away I had the urge to make a wool blazer. Something I absolutely do not need but I do tend to wear this one a lot. I wanted a different color family, something that goes with blue jeans so I searched a lot online for some nice wool tweed and finally found this fabric on Etsy. It was listed as a vintage piece so I ordered 2 yards and hoped for the best. I was really pleased with the color and decided to make a jacket with patch pockets for a change. 

I am really out of practice for blogging however I did take a lot of photos as I sewed this jacket so I might as well post them here. For starters I only ordered 2 yards as I am kind of a cheapskate when it comes to fabric purchases and I feel that I can squeeze any jacket on that amount. So here it is laid out on the floor for a test of that theory.  It was successful as you can see from the finished jacket. Missing on the test layout are the pockets and the collar pieces which I put in the blank spaces. Note that I am 5'3" and often have to shorten sleeves so it works for me as a relatively short person.

Here are the pattern details. I chose this pattern as it has patch pockets and Dior darts in the front princess seam. I made a test version, just to test fit and I think I recycled the muslin sleeve from a different Burda sleeve just to save time. I compared and they are all pretty much the same. 

Now some interfacing and construction details. I have posted about a lot of this before so just a few photos to show the insides. All the photos are in one album on my Flickr page if you want to see more, here is the link. 

Here is a look on the dress form. The lining is bemberg rayon which I had in my stash in a gray/blue color.  (also on view is my new hobby which is getting orchids to rebloom, and I am having some success and think this particular windowsill is just the right amount of light for orchid happiness). 

I should press things better when I am going to photograph on the dress form but I think I have already worn this a couple of times so now it has that lived in quality and it's going to stay that way :) 

That's it for winter sewing. We thought spring had arrived but it is really chilly today and definitely not shorts weather yet. I have been so busy with garden projects but it is looking great now and I am pretty much caught up on all the outdoor projects I wanted to do before it gets blazing hot. Time to think about summer sewing! 

I have a couple of sewing classes coming up with Hello Stitch, How to Copy your Favorite Shirt on June 21 and a Knit T-shirt Class on July 13.

Happy Spring Sewing,

Beth

Today's garden photo, this nerembergia continues my purple theme. I bought this a couple of summers ago and it is living happily in my drought tolerant front garden. In fact I just propagated it with a cutting so I can have a couple more. 

Winter Plaid Jacket: Burdastyle 126 Nov 2023

Right after Christmas it was a gloomy weather weekend, just the time to stay in with a sewing project. However I didn't have anything in mind so I went through my stash of wools and came across this Pendleton plaid, 2 yards, which I had bought at an ASG stash sale last year. Because it was a very nice fabric and I couldn't pass it up for $ 4. 

In this case I was "influenced" by a post on Instagram, as I frequently look at the #burdastyle hashtag and I kept seeing the same post with this jacket in a green brocade that looked great. (Boo to the algorithm that shows me the same posts over and over again instead of new posts in chronological order, but I guess that complaint is old news now).  

This style is a bit different for me but with our very mild recent winters a lightweight wool jacket might be something I get to wear more than anticipated. The pattern went together really well and the plaid matching worked out perfectly. I do really hate to sew separating zippers, it's just my least favorite thing to do but I got over my fear on this one. 

I put a little fusible interfacing on the center front edge where the zipper is, I find that makes the zipper sew in more smoothly. And then the hand basting to get the plaids to match across the center front. The pattern has a button band which is applied after the zipper/lining are done, and I sewed it but then I just didn't like the way it looked. Although perhaps I will go back and add it, as I have saved it. Mostly the reason I skipped it is I didn't really have any good buttons in the stash and didn't feel like shopping for any. It does mean that the lining shows up at the top where the collar turns back but I think it looks OK. 

My favorite thing about this jacket is the plaid matching which I think is fun! Burda patterns have always worked out very well for me with plaids which I think is an indication of a well-designed pattern. 

To get the pockets to match perfectly I cut out the jacket pieces and then overlaid the pocket pattern pieces on the jacket front to draw in the grids, then cut out the pockets/flaps so they would match. 

The sleeves have a seam down the top of the arm to the wrist, and they matched well also. When in doubt use an even plaid, one that is equidistant squares so there is no shift across the plaid. I think I wrote a post for the Craftsy blog about plaid matching (I wrote so many articles for that site and most of them have vanished, a few are still there). Also on the blog here if you search plaid matching in the sidebar I have several posts with tips on working with plaids. 

The bottom of the sleeves on this jacket seemed a bit odd to me, I thought they had a cuff or maybe elastic but no they are just finished like a coat sleeve, which I guess works and is less to do. 

I am glad I tried this pattern, it's a nice change from my usual winter style of a blazer or coat. I could even see making it again in a lightweight version for spring/summer. 

Sewing classes:  I have a few classes coming up in the next months with Hello Stitch. A Chore coat class next weekend, Feb. 8-9 with a couple of spots left.  Sunday March 9 is my "how to read a pattern" class, which is a great intro to sewing patterns, choosing sizes, how to measure yourself, and then a bit on some basic bodice adjustments. Then on March 22-23 is a Shirt Class. Those are the links for more info and to register. 

Up next, I'm making a couple of things for Heather and perhaps a new pair of corduroy jeans for myself. 

This time of year I am in garden maintenance mode - there is an unending pile of fallen leaves to rake up and then lots of pruning, weeding and planning for spring. 

Happy Sewing,

Beth

The first daffodils for today's garden photo. With many more to come. 

Zipper pocket Blazer for travel

In October I took a trip to Italy, a place I love and had not been to in quite a few years. Along with brushing up on my Italian all summer I did sew a few items to take on the trip. Top of my sewing list was a multi-purpose and all-season jacket I could dress up or down.  Once I decided to make a jacket I thought about fabric and then pockets - who doesn't love a plentitude of pockets when traveling? 

While at home I don't wear many garments of ponte knit but it is an ideal fabric for a travel wardrobe. I ordered some swatches from Mood and ended up using this fabric  which is their version and comes in a lot of colors. Way before I decided to make a ponte blazer for travel I had seen this Veronica Beard jacket (which they call iconic and travel ready). I loved the idea of the zipper pockets and saved it to my ideas board. Here's a look at the jacket after 3 weeks of travel and many times being folded into my suitcase when not needed. 

I am sold on this fabric for travel pieces. I also took denim jeans as well as a pair of ponte pants so I had travel outfits based on navy blue with plenty of different color tops and sweaters. I buttoned it so you can see the lapels and center front but I don't think I ever wore it buttoned like that. 

Looking at the ready to wear version it had several features that I really liked. Of course the zipper pockets, but it also had a peak lapel which I really like these days. But single breasted, not double. You very often see a peak lapel jacket which has that double breasted front (where the front edges cross over the center front line and have 2 or buttons horizontally placed. I didn't want that so I had to figure out how to change an existing pattern.  I used a pattern I have previously used here and here. The inspiration idea is from this jacket (images from their website)

So I went to work altering that quasi-vintage Vogue jacket pattern to have the peak lapel on the single breasted version. Now that I have made it twice I think the lapels are a bit skimpy in Versions A, B, C but perhaps that was the look then. 

Here's a look at the different lapels on the 2 versions, you can see there is a big difference in the lapel width and shape.  Below is my traced pattern  piece and the changes I made to blend the two versions. 

Actually this is a combo of info on my fit adjustments as well as the lapel design detail. I grafted the shape of the peak lapel onto the jacket front for Version A,B.C and then made new facings from that redesigned front. 

Instead of welt pockets I made a facing using lining fabric, and created a rectangular opening for the zipper, which I then basted into place and sewed in (after a LOT of basting to make sure it was in just the right place.) Then once both zippers were looking reasonably even and centered I stitched them in by machine. Then I created a pocket bag on the bag attached to the edges of the rectangle. That was later covered by the lining. 

At first it bugged my how the zipper pulls hang down instead of remaining horizontal but now I think it looks fine. These pockets did their job and I could go out to dinner without carrying an extra bag for sunglasses etc.  Here's a look at the jacket on the dress form before putting in the lining or hemming.  Once I had done the lining I got the idea to include more inside pockets, so I added breast pockets as well, they were also very functional but not very beautiful so I won't show you those :) 

This fabric presses really well and I did use a silk organza press cloth to prevent shine on the fabric. 

But it is also springy - the same feature that gives it the wrinkle resistance means you have to press it well to get the creases. I basted the lapel and then pressed it with steam to get a good crease. I used weft interfacing on the body of the jacket front and then knit fusible on the lapel and collar facings. 

I was really pleased with this jacket, it was the right weight for the trip. And the weather was strange in a global warming kind of way - much warmer in October in Italy than any other time I have been there. Which often required scarf and gloves at night and a wool jacket - but this trip it was really warm almost no sweaters required.  Here I am on a high tower overlooking the cathedral in Siena - it was a bit chilly that time although we warmed up quickly with aperitivi in the Campo. 

And just a week later in Florence it was back to short sleeve tops and barely a jacket required. Definitely odd weather but I wasn't complaining! 

Buon Anno a tutti!   Happy New Year to all. Thanks for reading and I wish everyone a great year with health, happiness, great travels and fantastic fabric choices!

Beth