Friday, May 1, 2015

New Look 6087 wrap dress: pattern nice, fabric not

The title says it all - this is really a great pattern but I am unsatisfied with the outcome entirely due to fabric choice. I do like the colors but the print seems very old lady to me, and also poly ITY knits are just not my favorite. I think this is just the 3rd item in this type of fabric that I now own. One is a dress that has been worn a few times, and another is a top that I really like - only due to the Simplicity pattern and color.
And this is such a great pattern! I have been meaning to sew it up forever - or at least since it was issued. I have used the pattern to make a wrap dress for my friend Heather, and recommended it to others but just never got around to it for myself. So I impulsively bought this fabric one day at Joann's on super sale, thus a smallish investment (around $ 10) and figured I would give it a try.
Here is the final version, after some rethinking of the design elements as I went along.

NL dress on me

Here is the pattern envelope and tech drawing. The details of the design are kind of obscured by the busy print.

NL 6097 pattern rec

I started out by cutting out the sleeves, thinking I might make elbow length or short sleeves, but it seemed very geriatric looking. And for some reason the collar bugged me as well so you can see I took that off also. Which was annoying as I had already finished the binding but it wasn't too bad to remove.

First Versions: with frumpy sleeves options and then still with collar. Not sure what I have against short sleeves on dresses. As they are fine on tops and t-shirts but somehow on dresses I prefer either long sleeves or sleeveless.
blue ity dress with sleevesblue ity dress without sleeves

And lastly I did some shaping on the armholes. It might not show in these pictures but I cut them it at the shoulder a good inch.  Scroll back up and look at the first picture, and imagine the shoulders coming out further - if you make sleeveless dresses I suggest that you don't just go with the shape of the armhole - customize it to fit your frame.

NL wrap dress front2NL wrap dress back

View of finished bodice. I put a small 1/4 inch self fabric binding on the armholes. It looks a bit drapey at the bottom of the bodice and it is slightly but I wanted it to blouse a bit above the waist. In the other photos I tried a blue leather belt but maybe that breaks it up a bit. I had enough fabric to make a tie belt as well.

NL wrap front closeup

Fit notes on this pattern:  My usual obsession - back waist length. Which some people have inquired as to how to do this on yourself. I made a quick muslin of just the top half of the dress. If I do make a muslin for a dress, usually I just make the top half, unless the whole dress is quite complicated to fit. Because for me all the trouble, such as width of neckline and length of bodice can be worked out with   minimum effort. I am all about minimum effort (well sometimes).

For this dress it was a good idea, as despite looking like a perfect fit on paper, the V-neck is often a trap for new players! Too low, and then you are stuck with a cami.

NL wrap muslin

So I raised the skirt in the center back a good two inches, and them tapered back to zero near the center front.  I think the pattern said to sew a channel at the waist and add elastic, which I did. Photo below is the finished dress, so if I had not removed some length from the back bodice I think it would have been very droopy.

NL wrap dress side pocket copy

So that's the scoop on New Look 6087. Maybe I will wear it before the weather turns oven-like, which judging by our 90˚F weather today will be very soon.

And look and this is typical of my usual attempts to take photos for my blog. I am a blinker! Does anyone else have the problem? Please ignore the patchy lawn and enjoy the blooms behind me.

This weekend I have no idea what I will be sewing - so many items on wish list. It just might be a dress as I feel the need for a winner!

Happy weekend sewing,  Beth


Nl  dress on me 2

21 comments:

  1. I like your dress! I think it looks great. I think with the sleeves it is a great dress for the office, but sleeveless I also think is better. I like it without the collar also. Although blue is not my colour, I love the blue and green together.

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  2. I love your dress and the fabric is definitely something I would choose. Lovely colours.

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  3. The dress looks really nice. I'll have to add this pattern to my stash. The fabric is pretty, but I get what you are saying. I am in the process of finishing up a knit dress and although I love the pattern, the fabric has me just meh about it. Oh well. It is wearable and a good practice run of a dress I like.

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  4. I am a blinker too Beth! It drives my photographer (aka. my very patient boyfriend) crazy, as I tend to blink in 80% of the shots. I never include the photos on my blog, which often leaves me with very few photos to choose from, but maybe I should just embrace it like you have! It may bring some joy to fellow blinkers and non-blinkers alike, out in the blogosphere. You have inspired me to upload one of my best / worst blinks to pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/pin/480759328948760247/
    I love the dress by the way! I am a real sucker for a wrap dress.

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  5. The dress looks great & I think the fabric is very pretty!

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  6. Add me to the blinkers too, in the summer I just wear my sunglasses! I really like this dress it looks great on you. Thanks for the tips on fitting.

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  7. I think the print is really pretty -- the colors are so beautiful.

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  8. I like the dress too especially the print of the fabric but I KNOW that unless you're happy with it, it won't be worn. I want to thank you for the fitting tips too! I always learn something when I visit your blog!

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  9. Ooh, a knit dress with pockets not in the side seam. Thanks for pointing out this nice pattern and the fitting tutorial.

    A patchy or brown lawn in the middle of a drought should be a point of pride. Show your enviro-cred!

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  10. This looks lovely! I definitely prefer it without the collar- great idea!

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  11. I'm not a fan of ITY either. So many people love it but I've never met a version of it that didn't make me recoil in horror at the feel of it. Plus, I dislike how heavy it is. But your dress is beautiful. I adore the print.

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  12. I made one top in ITY and never again. I can't stand how it feels against my skin. But, that said, I have to agree with you about the geriatric feel of this dress. I think that the added drape doesn't help. I made a dress with a twist at the waist and boy did that make me look like I was one large, long bust. Not so bad on you, but certainly not as flattering as that Simplicity top you linked to. Maybe a belt in a contrasting color would help.

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  13. It is a gorgeous dress, but I know what you mean about the poly ITY. I hate the feel of it. I have some rayon ITY to try soon. I'm a blinker too. I should probably just start showing headless shots of myself.

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  14. I love this dress on you Beth and I think your changes were right on the money!! It doesn't look "old lady" like at all! I must say I've been sitting on this pattern every since it came out. It's still collecting dust in my stash! I can't tell you why I've not made it yet. Anyway, yours is perfect!!

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  15. I don't think the fabric looks geriatric at all! Sigh. Yet another pattern to add to the list! Thanks for sharing.

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  16. This is so pretty, it fits you perfectly and I love the print. If it were my size I'd try to buy it from you.

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  17. I like your fitting tips. This one on redoing the sleeveless cut is a good one. I like this pattern because of the pocket design, just like others mentioned. Have to get it. I don't think this fabric is "old lady like" in this dress. It looks like a comfortable summer dress that would go from work to a Saturday lunch outing.

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  18. Looks great Beth. I have made this pattern...with sleeves and collar but I confess next time I won't add collar and will alter sleeves. Always great tips from you!

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  19. I really like the dress. It doesn't look geriatric to me but sewing with flowers can be tricky. You can end up with a beautiful spring garment or an old lady dress. Yours is a winner.

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  20. Hi Beth! I always learn something new reading your posts. About the back adjustment, it is a problem I always have.
    Your dress is really pretty but I understand what you mean about the print. It is not overtly "old age" at all, but perhaps too busy.
    Are you planning on making it in a different fabric?

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  21. I really love this dress. This is such a beautiful print.

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