Shirt placket experiment - the wearable test version

For someone who doesn't really wear button up shirts all that regularly I seem to sew a lot of them! Actually sewing shirts is very rewarding. Maybe it is all that precision, and the fact that a shirt is a lot of components so it lends itself to sewing when time permits. Collar and stand in one session, sewing the sleeves and cuffs at another time when I have a spare minute, and before you know it is all done.

So I got the idea to try and make the popover version which seems everywhere now. (I have seen in ready-to-wear a lot lately) Do you get the Land's End catalog? I wouldn't say they are on the cutting edge of style but they do have some nice basics and since I don't sew everything I order once in a while from them. So I saw the popover shirt in their catalog. I have strangely good luck with some of their shoes, and I know a lot of people who swear by their swimsuits. I think I have one two-piece swimsuit but since I can't stand a one-piece swimsuit their selection is lacking for me.

Anyway -  the popover is just like a button front shirt except the button band does not continue all the way down so the shirt has to go over your head. No particular need, I just thought it was kind of cute. And after my success with the hidden buttonhole placket this one was next on my to-do list.

Plus I will be doing a how-to post which will be on the Craftsy blog, so I will link when that posts over there.



This is the weirdest fabric ever! Or maybe not.... I got it at a Bay Area Sewists group meet up where we swapped fabric. Not sure why I took it, it was about 1.3 yards and it has a significant stretch although it is not a knit. And that print - kind of mesmerizing.  (wait a few weeks - I am working on another item with an even weirder print).  And also the fabric is very lightweight, almost floaty. On the negative side it has a strange feel, maybe because of all the lycra content? But perfect for a test version of a top. I wanted to do a contrast placket - mostly so I could see what I was doing while working out the measurements but also thought it would look good. So I rummaged in my fabric stash and scraps and almost gave up until I found this scrap of quilting cotton which I had used a while ago for some other post. Bingo! on the color match.

The pattern is the same one I have used for all my button front shirts, Simplicity 2339 with various modifications. The bust darts are rotated to shoulder gathers which I really like.



Next version I will shorten the placket about 6-7 inches. It is not necessary to have it be as long as I made it - I was just playing around with the concept on this one.



Back view - no changes to the shirt pattern here.
Although for a sleeveless version I moved the top of the armhole in considerably. Something I do after I sew it up, so I can see how it looks on me and get the edge right where I want it on my shoulder. So I try it on, mark with pins where I want the edge to be on either side, then measure and take the average. Note my thread trace, I am a big thread marker - it is just so much easier than putting in a pin which will probably fall out before I get to that part. So I just run a little thread at the spot and then I can put the project down and come back to it without any problems. The thread is marking the final edge, so I removed some portion but left enough of a seam allowance. And tapered to nothing at about 4 inches down.



Placket inside - I am really happy with how it turned out and perhaps I will use this on a tunic top as well. The most difficult part of this redesign is finding the center front of the shirt front when there is a sewn on button band - but completely do-able.



For the inside yoke I use some white cotton batiste as I thought the pattern might show through. The armholes have bias binding, which I rarely do but it seems just right on this type of shirt. And some side slits at the hem.



So that's the latest on my wearable muslin popover top. Originally I took this early morning photo but it was too bright so you can't really see the top - but as the I was standing there I was being buzzed by hummingbirds. Photobombed by a hummingbird :) One evening the sprinklers were on around dusk (back when we watered with abandon!) and I watched a hummingbird fly in place for what seemed like 5 minutes, bobbing up and down in the air above the falling water, taking a shower. They are so fascinating. I keep trying to find a nest but I think they are well hidden.



Up next - I am still working in bits and pieces on an outfit for my friend Heather using her Mood fabric boucle - mixed with some wool double knit for a hopefully versatile business and more outfit. Plus I have been given a ton of fabrics by friends who just don't want them in their house anymore - yes please to fabric (after all that was the inspiration for my tri-color coat)

And making a summer shift dress to use as an example dress this weekend when I teach a class at Sips N Sews sewing studio in San Francisco. If you are interested you can still sign up.

Happy Sewing, Beth

Today's garden photo is this blue iris, I kind of forgot that I even planted these bulbs and had blooms from maybe half of the bag - both yellow and blue. What a color!