Monday, December 17, 2018

Vogue 8784 wrap dress in silk crepe

Very happy to have this one "wrapped" up. Yes, all the cliches for discussing wrap dresses, I should just get them over with now. How about "it's a wrap" and I did feel that sense of relief when it was completed. A wrap dress with these details involves some fitting adjustments for any figure and I did make more than one test version along the way. However now that it's finished I am really happy with it and hope to make a short sleeved version when spring arrives. The pattern is Vogue 8784.  Pattern envelope photo below and also a link to a previous blog post with all the details on the fitting adjustments for this pattern.

silk dress on H front view 1

Sophisticated is the word that I think of for this dress, the color and print are not something I would have selected but now that I see it sewn up I think it's very sharp - and gives off a the look of "business executive with a feminine twist" which suits Heather perfectly.

Silk dress side view on form


Here's the pattern envelope. I made the View B although I did make a few changes. Firstly to make it a regular long sleeve.

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I did 2 muslins on this dress, as it was a bit tricky to fit because it doesn't have regular bust darts but the bust fullness is incorporated into the release pleats at the waist. As with a lot of other wrap dresses, I added a horizontal bust dart to allow for more fullness and length over the bust of the wrap part. You can't see it in the silk version but here in the muslin it's visible.

This image is from my previous blog post - here's the link -  which has lots of information on fitting this pattern, and photos of the various muslin variations and changes along the way.


wrap muslin 2nd version 1

My biggest lightbulb moment when working on the muslin version was to realize that the skirt part that wraps under doesn't need to be pleated - in fact it's better if it is flat. Less bulk and a smoother layer under the wrap part.


Silk dress front view2 on form

Another change is that the ties don't really wrap, there is no opening in the side for the tie to go through. The pattern had it but I removed it as Heather prefers a tie that is secured on one side seam and doesn't move around. Wrap dresses where the tie threads through the opening in the side seam and then the ties wrap around and tie can be difficult to wear in that the closure is dependent on the waist tie. In this version, the tie belt is stitched to the side seam on the right side so it never moves.

In place of the tie that threads through the opening, I added a short connector, which is sewn to the side seam and then attaches to the right dress front via a skirt hook. I covered some 3/4" elastic with the silk, and the elastic allows it to be snug but also comfortable.

silk dress hook closure


silk dress inside hook closure

The other side has a skirt hook as well, so this dress is wrapped and in place and the sash tie is mostly for looks.

The pattern calls for a full lining and I like the order of construction which gives a very neat waist seam plus the lining is very secure, as it is stitched to the waist. This keeps the skirt lining from ever peeking out under the hem.

Silk dress pleats thread trace

Close up of this lovely silk fabric. We bought this at Piedmont Fabrics in Oakland maybe 2 years ago? Just waiting for the right pattern and I think this one was the perfect match for it. I lined it with navy blue bemberg rayon lining. I tried the lighter colors like ivory and beige but to me the navy blue looked best. Especially in the skirt of a wrap dress, which can tend to flip open. A peek of beige lining looked too neutral and underwear-ish to me (realize that's not a word but you get the idea.)
Whereas the navy blue lining looks intentional and complimentary.


silk dress on H back view    Silk wrap dress back view on form


Silk dress on H front view

I'll say it again, that's a wrap for this pattern - until springtime. Now that I have the fit worked out on the bodice I want to try the full skirt version. Also so many people have written to say that they appreciate seeing what I sew for Heather - I'm glad you like it and I will continue. She picks fantastic fabrics and I enjoy the pattern puzzle of fitting new patterns for her.

In other sewing news, I'm done for the year on classes at Hello Stitch - what a great year it has been and we have all kinds of new classes on the schedule starting in January, like jeans,  a quilted jacket, and repeating our very popular Lander pants and Wiksten kimono jacket classes. Plus some sewing series classes which will include pattern fitting and dressmaking. Hope to see you there!

Up next, I'm just finishing a red silk blouse for myself that may go into rotation for festive holiday wear. Along with my red plaid dress shown in my previous post - Thanks so much for all the nice words here and on Instagram. I do like the color red.

Happy it's almost Christmas sewing, 
Beth


Today's garden photo, a  rose from back in early October. It's almost time to give all my roses their big pruning, maybe in about 3 weeks. This variety is St. Patrick.

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21 comments:

  1. Stunning! You really do have the skill and patience to fit larger sizes not just perfectly, but flatteringly. She looks great.

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  2. Beautiful dress, Beth! She is lucky to have your help with her wardrobe for sure! I hope I can make it down for another class next year. The last two have been a lot of fun for me.

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  3. This is so beautiful ! A great fit and so flattering .

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  4. Lovely dress, and the fabric is fab!

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  5. Another great dress! I like the idea of adding a hook to the closure.

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  6. I have that pattern in the drawer...now i’m Inspired to sew it up!

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  7. That is a gorgeous dress. And it fits and flatters so perfectly.

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  8. Really lovely. So happy to see it in a 'plus' size, as I sew for my daughter, similar. I have this pattern! Need to revisit for spring and summer. Thks! Coco

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  9. This looks like a fragrant rose, much like the Peace rose. Question: what size did you sew/start with for this dress? thks

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  10. The dress is lively, Beth. The fit is spot on. Thanks for sharing the fit adjustments.

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  11. Oops should be .., is lovely, Beth.

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  12. The classic wrap dress and made to perfection.
    Some styles will never date.

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  13. As for me, this dress is amazing. Beautifully fitted dress. The right colors. Performance revelation. A great idea for such creations. Congratulations.

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  14. That FABRIC!! It looks fantastic on her (but so does everything you sew for her!!!!)

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  15. I am one of those people that appreciates seeing custom tailored clothing made for non model figures. The tucks on the bodice of this dress are so flattering for her figure. Really lovely dress.

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  16. I love reading all of your Heather-based posts. She looks amazing, and you have done such a fantastic job with the fit. Heather makes great fabric choices too. What a team!

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  17. Beth, love this dress on Heather. It is a gem. Appreciated the notes on the belt and lining.
    Your St Patrick is lovely, my fav rose, I have two of them! My short round figure appreciates all your fitting notes. Though i’ve lost weight, i’m Of course still only 5’2”! I may actually try a dress, 1st time in forever!
    Cherie in Phoenix

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  18. Perfect! I will take on board some of your comments when I come to do the wrap dress I plan to make for myself. I hope you had a lovely Christams - and now it's nearly New Year! So Happy New Year!

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  19. Stunning match of design, style, fabric and wearer! The colors of the fabric suit her coloring so well. You did a great job of making and fitting.

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