Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138 completed

This is another of my posts where I feel it should have a subtitle. And the subtitle should be be "Try, Try, Tricolor coat".  Ok slightly pathetic excuse for a pun but this is a coat where I had completely finished it, then gone back and made a fit adjustment, not once but twice! So that makes three times I said "all done" and I am now fairly satisfied with it.
Pictures first and then a bit of explanation and some construction info.




I love that jade green color and the quality of the fabric is so nice. My previous post is about the starting the coat, where I got the fabrics (the green one was a lovely gift) and some notes on fabric preparation, interfacing, etc.  I might do another post on more of the sewing details, and some tips on interfacing as it pertains to coats.

I have not tried to recreate the style of the pattern photo shoot before but often have been tempted so my photographer was willing to give it a try. Leave it to Burda to add one element (that chunky scarf) to obscure the garment's details.

So where do the three revisions come in?  I really had the coat completely finished, and placed on the dress form in my sewing room but I just couldn't stop looking at the width of the shoulders. It seemed too big for the dress form, so I would put it on and take it off trying to decide. Also once I had it sewn up but before the lining, it seemed to need shoulder pads even though the pattern did not call for them. So I put them in, and then finished the lining. That is when it started to look too big. Pattern notes: I made a Burda size 40 which is what I used for the Burda heather purple shawl collar wool coat but I am wondering if the thickness of that fabric took up some of the room and thus it was not too big. I think this tricolor coat in size 40 turned out too big. And then I studied the Burda measurements and realized a Vogue size 12 which I usually start with probably corresponds better to a Burda 38. So my eyes were not playing tricks on me, it was too big.

Here is the back view so you maybe see what I am talking about. I have only one other issue with the pattern, where the back upper yoke attaches to the panels, it seems a bit too big there, or it could be something I did but I made it work.



So I decided to narrow the shoulders. Meaning I had to detach the upper portion of the lining. Which I always sew in by hand so it wasn't that bad to do.

I moved the top of the sleeves in by about 5/8". First by unpicking them, from about 4 inched down from the center top going toward the front and back. Then I shifted them inward, making the shoulder seam shorter. BASTED in place. Tried on, did some little adjustments here and there. Then machine basted. Tried on again just to make sure everything was right. Measured the length of each shoulder seam to make sure they were even. Then stitched them up on the machine. Re-attached the sleeve heads. Tossed away the shoulder pads (yay!). Re-attached the lining. And satisfaction :)





Here is a look at the collar and the closure, which are large hooks. I thought they would bug me but they seem fine. The most important thing (Ok one of the important things) was to sew them perfectly so the color blocking would line up just right down the center front.



And the side view. Here is where need for the second adjustment became apparent. Darn that Burda size 40. The sleeves were too wide, particularly in the bicep. So once again but in a different place, I unpicked the lining sleeve hem (also sewn by hand, so not difficult to undo). and then pulled the sleeve through the bottom opening (I do not bag the lining so the hem lining is not attached to the coat hem - just never have done it that way - and makes adjustments a lot easier). I narrowed the whole sleeve by 1 inch total (taking a half in seam tapering to nothing where it attached to the armhole). And I liked it soooo much better. Perfect. and a live and learn moment to compare things to other garments that fit well (which I always tell people to do but should have done in this instance myself).



A few details on the facing/lining. The pattern had a one piece facing down the front, I think the instructions said to use the same color as the sections in green, but that just bugged me. I thought the facing should continue the color blocking so I had to make it that way. Easy enough to use the pattern pieces from the color blocking to make facings. Also the pattern front facing was about 2 inches wide which seemed awfully skimpy so I made it similar to the front section. Easier to show than tell so here it is.



Just for fun  - continuity - I did a bit of color blocking on the bottom of the lining so you can see the bottom band is black to continue that bottom panel.

Looking through my Flickr album I do have more construction pics so I will do another post on some more sewing details, plus this outfit is not complete - one more piece from this Burda pattern collection.

Summary: this pattern is one I kept going back to since I first noticed it, maybe 2 years ago? Once I had the green coating fabric it all came together and I am really happy with it. The colors are my favorites and I think it looks great with jeans or more dressy outfits. Now I am 99% satisfied with the fit and will know for next time to start with a smaller size and go from there.  By the way, I took these photos after narrowing the shoulders but before narrowing the sleeves, so you can see they look a bit wide. When I take pics of the second item I will show the better sleeve fit.

I am entering this in the Color-Blocking contest on Pattern Review so you might see it there :).

Thanks for all the great comments on my previous post about coat patterns - as I said, the Pattern Whisperer is all for fun and a good way to discuss a particular category of patterns, and to look for features that make them easy to sew and/or fit.

Up next, I have some dresses I sewed for my friend Heather to post and then I think I will settle down with some easy-peasy knit tops.

Happy sewing,
Beth

The Pattern Whisper recommends: Winter Coats

Before the polar vortex hits your part of the world you may have winter coat sewing in mind. Since I was in the midst of making a new coat I mentioned recently the idea of a pattern whisperer post on coats and the response was positive. So I have rounded up a few coat ideas with my thoughts on fitting and ease of sewing.
Full disclaimer here  - I mostly sew with Vogue and now Burda (both envelope and magazine downloads) so the choices from those pattern lines. I really like Burda in all forms lately for outerwear, they seem to have more choices in coats and cover all size ranges with stylish and wearable options. Also I tried to find coat patterns that are actually suitable for wearing in the cold. I made that Burda portrait collar coat last year and someone commented that it was a "fashion" coat not a winter coat, which is understandable when you look at the open neckline. Actually it is funny because that is the warmest coat I have - due to the thick fabric and with one more button or hook you could close the collar and be nice and toasty!

It seemed strange to me but quite a few of these patterns are a little dull as pictured on the pattern, and this is where imagination has to step in. I think for coats it really pays to look in stores, try on some various colors, shapes etc. While a black coat will last in your wardrobe for a good while, there are a lot of neutrals that work really well for coats and depending on your typical color scheme grey, dark red, deep purple, navy or a camel color are also really good for a coat that you can wear with a lot of options. Usually for dresses or tops I don't make a muslin but for a coat it is a must. Just so much better to get the fit resolved before you cut into your nice fabric. And coating needs interfacing. I will have some details in my next post about interfacing although you can look at some of my past posts to see more on that.

First up a newish pattern from Vogue 9157. This has a lot going for it in terms of ease of sewing. It might look like a lot of pattern pieces but I find that last stretch of sewing a coat is kind of a wrestling match - usually in a heavy wool it can get really bulky and awkward. I could see constructing this one in the upper and lower half, and then attaching. Also raglan sleeves - if you have had some trouble with setting in a sleeve in a thick wool this would be much easier. I used to not like double breasted coats but am coming around a bit. Cute pockets also on View B.  (View A is a jacket length). I'm sure that View C has in seam pockets. The kicker for this pattern is that it comes in cup sizes which saves some work in the fitting.  No reviews that I can find which is a suprise but someone is probably sewing it up right now.




Next up is a pattern that might be a bit hard to find. Simplicity 2311. I posted this on Instagram not long ago and mentioned that it was a great pattern but discontinued but Simplicity commented that it still available. I made it a few years ago and love how it turned out. The tech drawing had me worried about the size of the lapels but I found them to be perfect. Proportion wise, fit etc this pattern is a winner, also I didn't find any exessive ease or other issues that can be common with some Simplicity patterns. A few years ago they had a lot of cute coat patterns but the choice has dwindled from them lately. I also like that this pattern had single or double breasted, princess seams front and back, choice of different collar options. I like patterns with a lot of options!





Ok, here is the one that might be a bit of a sleeper, Butterick 6141. Something about how it looks on the model  - and even in the tech drawing is kind of frumptastic, but I think this coat has a lot of potential. The example just looks too big in the waist for the model, picture it with the waist nipped in a bit more, which would then emphasize the flare over the hips. Very retro in a good way. If you like fit and flare dresses this might be the style for you.  On the plus side, it has shoulder princess seams - great for fitting over the bust, choice of collar options, even a hidden placket option where you can use large snaps for those who are just over doing buttonholes in thick wool fabric (we have all been there). This pattern with a better fit could be a really nice vintage inspired look.



To illustrate my point on this Butterick pattern I took a deep dive into my closet to photograph this coat which I did not sew. My mom bought it for me when I started my first real job in San Francisco. But is the same idea as the above pattern, princess seams (although these are armhole princess) and then those release pleats at the waist creating a slightly full skirt and giving it a nice hourglass shape. We bought this coat downton at Joseph Magnin's which doesn't exist anymore (sad). It has a velvet collar and bound buttonholes, plus the sleeves are slightly full and then end in pleats at the wrist which echo the pleats in the skirt. I love release pleats  - or to be accurate I think they are release darts (darts which don't go to a point). Anyway - that is a feature I have always liked. The very popular Anna dress from ByHandLondon has that type of dart in the bodice and if you get the fit right it looks pretty and a bit vintage-y.  So........does anyone else see the potential in that Butterick pattern?




Moving on to a pattern where I have no doubts, this Burda plus pattern is so sharp. The model looking so gorgeous from head to toe might have something to do with it but oooo a red coat!. Plus traditional menswear overcoat shaping, nice lapel, welt pocket, walking pleat in back, two piece sleeve. Love it. And this is a Burda Plus pattern. (Burda Plus has soooo many good patterns  - ok they have the requisite odds and ends with goofy styling but really - lots of great choices available. My only hesitation  is those darn "dior darts" which can hard to sew in ponte or something that doesn't want to press but seem to work better in natural fibers, especially in a lofty wool which you can steam to get nice shaping.



For a relatively new sewist or if you are a little worried about coat sewing, I think this Burda Easy coat is so cute and comes with (allegedly) complete instructions for the new sewer.  I really like the version on the right, it has a snap front, high collar, interesting darts front and back and one drawback - faux pockets. But the pocket flaps are cute and I would put side seam pockets to get around that little issue. I am not a fan of collarless coats (short haired girl here - neck is always cold) but that coat has my number one sewing dislike - separating zipper. So go ahead all you zipper fanatics. For some reason this is just the top of the list of things I will never sew, I just hate sewing them and don't really like wearing them. But I admit they do look great on some garments. Oh well.....



Here is another Simplicity, 1015 pattern that ticks a lot of boxes for being both current and practical, yet the pattern envelope styling would have me running for the hills if I had not scrutinized it a bit more.



Looks relatively easy to fit, and really easy to sew with slouchy shoulders instead of set in sleeves, princess seams, a nice big collar for warmth, fastens with a belt although you could add buttons or snaps as well. This is the first coat pattern I have seen in ages that has included the pattern for the button in/out extra warm lining layer. I have had coats with that and they are kind of handy - makes them more of an all weather coat. And if you sew one coat you want it to be useful for a long time, right? Although what is happening with that View B on the left, with the grey and black. That is some pitiful color blocking. also is she wearing knee socks? I don't even want to know.


Next are my picks for the comfy coat that feels like a blanket but looks great paired with the right pieces. The one on the left is a Burda downloadable and the one on the right is an envelope pattern.


They are similar in silhouette but the one on the left has a more cool vibe, and interesting seaming. The one on the right looks easy to sew and fit and would make a great warm casual coat in a tweed or check as they show. I suspect it doesn't really take all that much fabric which could be good. The collar is actually more like a shirt collar than a typical lapel, so if you have sewn a shirt you could definitely sew this coat.

I have to give a shout out to a couple more great coats. First the Quart coat from Pauline Alice patterns, I sewed this last year for a friend and it is a gorgeous looking coat. Slight warning - check the length as it is on the short side so if you want a knee length coat you may need to adjust. But it has those super cute pleated insets on the sides. Love! If you love plaid give that a try - but this falls into the category of a supposedly fun thing I will never do again (so I say).



Another coat I recently saw almost made it to my list but I was trying to keep it short, however if you want a feminine, fitted style check out Margo's recent coat, which is Burda 6772. I love the idea of a dressy coat and this one is perfect to brighten up the winter.

It took me a while but I am now convinced that if you want a good coat pattern, try Burda first! they have a good variety, casual, traditional, formal, fashion-forward and lots of choice across the whole pattern size range including plus size. And their sleeves seem to be very well drafted.

Here are links to the Burda coats I have made.

BurdaStyle book coat in blue wool.
Burda plus coat in black wool.
Burda magazine pattern in heathered plum wool.
Burda magazine tricolor coat - in process :)  up next on the blog.

So are you sewing a coat this season? what are you waiting for - winter is upon us!

Happy December sewing,
Beth

Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138, part 1

A few autumn leaves, a couple of frosty nights and my sewing mojo is back. With a chill in the air coat season is finally here!
Do you ever have a pattern that have not bought but keep returning to? Over and over again, thinking about, wondering what fabrics might work, evaluating if it right for your wardrobe? This BurdaStyle pattern is from 2012 and I have probably been looking at it since then. I don't get the magazine but I always take a quick peek at their emails showcasing the new pattern collections so maybe I first saw it there.
Recently someone gave me a gorgeous piece of wool coating and I wanted to use it for something really special. Here is the link to the pattern page.



The gigantic scarf is obscuring the collar details but fortunately they show it in the other image. And this pattern led me to a discovery that may be well known to you but something I never noticed before. More on that in a minute.

Back to the fabric. That beautiful green wool was given to me, it is a perfect weight of coating fabric. Already pre-shrunk and sealed up in a bag - thus you can see a few wrinkles which pressed out perfectly. I started thinking about combinations for the tricolor coat and remembered that I had a very heavy wool coating in my stash which - wait for it - I bought at some rummage sale or something like  that. It is a 4 yard piece of super dark navy blue wool coating. Just sitting in my stash until needed :)
And I probably paid under $10 for that. So....two fabrics ready and one more needed.



This is where my silly little discovery happened. I often do a screen capture of the technical drawing image from pattern websites, either to save for a blog post, or to print out and color in with pencils, just to play around with fabric options. This time I had the drawing open in Photoshop and clicked on the paint bucket tool, filled in on the coat and to my surprise it just filled in one section. So I changed color and filled in the other sections. As with so many features in Photoshop (and many many other programs) trial and error or happy accident or crazily frustrated random clicking results in some new epiphany. (or possible erasure of an hour's worth of work but we won't focus on that now). So this may be a well known feature of the technical drawings but it was news to me. And what a perfect pattern to play with this feature.




I was thinking grey for the third color but my newly found coloring tool helped me decide on something a bit brighter (oh what a surprise, when do I choose the understated). Although the grey is nice and I could imagine this coat in shades of all grey - that would be very sharp looking. So something in the sapphire blue was the winner. Which I didn't have so I had to order fabric. Fortunately I found a perfect choice at Gorgeous Fabrics, a wool coating for about $ 23 yard. Just needed one yard so in the shopping basket it went and you can see it above.

I did make a muslin of this pattern before I cut out my nice wools. Using some scraps of various things and not doing the colors in the same array as the pattern, but I just wanted to check the fit and length. I cut out the Burda size 40 with about an inch added at the hip on the side seams and the fit is spot on. Can I take a minute to rave about the Burda sleeves? I have now made a few Burda jackets and so far their sleeves are really great. Although long! which I guess is better than too short.



Sewing this coat I have taken a lot of photos - so expect a few more process posts along the way.
Here is the first on my sewing process. When it comes to linings, whether in the jacket or coat, or just the pockets, I am not a fan of novelty linings. Inside jeans or shorts it looks cute to have some contrasting cotton and that's a good way to use up scraps, but when it comes to any "serious" coat (defining serious as something I put a LOT of work into and intend to last years) I want the pockets to disappear, or be hidden and have no chance of peeking out.



So for the pockets which are in the side seams on this coat, I add an extra section of fabric and then sew the pocket bag onto that, which serves to have the coating fabric extend about 1.5 inches into the pocket so the pocket lining stays hidden. Although I did use a dark navy for the pocket lining so it is not very visible anyway.
Sewing process item #2, interfacing. While all these wools are quite thick and this design doesn't need much support (no lapel or traditional collar) the 3 fabrics were slightly different in weight and thickness. I wanted them to all behave the same way so the method to achieve that is interfacing. Also my muslin test showed me that sewing those curvy junctions was very tricky and needed some stabilization.  More on this in my next post but for starters I pulled out all kinds of interfacing and did some tests.



I always do tests on my fabric and interfacing combos, not just applying the interfacing but then stitching the fabrics together in various combinations to see how they go together. Sometimes I am surprised at what works so the test is always worth the few minutes it takes. For most wools I use this Pro-weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (note I just got an email this morning they are having a sale, 15% off.

Here is the sample I played around with, front and back.



I tried to create a section that matched the pattern where the 3 colors were joined together, and also included a curve, which I had to snip, making it look like some kind of abstract art face or something. But you can see that the various weights of interfacing applied, then I stitch the pieces together, including where there is interfacing because you want to see how the interfacing does in the seam as well as in the body of the garment. I ended up using several different weights of the pro-weft as well as some knit interfacing in other sections which I will show in a subsequent post. And that image on the left includes a little speck of interfacing on the blue section - something about this wool coating catches every little spare thread or speck of interfacing, which I noticed here on this test and had to be really careful of when I did apply to the real pattern pieces. Also late night interfacing - of course I fused a big piece to my press cloth because it was glue side up. Which is a good indication that it is too late to be sewing and time to turn out the lights, unplug the iron and get some sleep. Also - yay for fusing to the press cloth and not the iron. Thank you Mr. Press Cloth for always being there :).

And now a little sneak peek of the coat in progress.  Lots more details to come for readers who comment that they love to see the in-process sewing and technical details.



This morning I got some Christmas shopping done, so civilized with my cup of coffee and my laptop. Unfortunately the "one for them and one for me" habit is hard to avoid. Oh well.....

Now off to the gym and then perhaps some garden work is in order. Or I could stay inside and sew. Decisions, decisions. Oh who am I kidding, I will probably sew.

Happy Thanksgiving weekend and wishing everyone delicious leftovers  - one of the best parts of this great holiday
Beth

Buried treasure, Simplicity 2152 skirt

Do you ever rummage around in your closet and find something you completely forgot about? I can confess I do it fairly often. A slight drawback of sewing a lot means that many things get worn a bit when new then shoved to the back of the closet with something new taking up my attention.

However when it comes to UFO's - unfinished objects - in my sewing, I just never have them. Does that sound impossible? Kind of snobby? Believe me, in the rest of my life I have plenty of unfinished objects, tasks and to do lists. (That garden shed is not cleaning itself - despite my thinking about it regularly). But sewing  - I finish almost everything I start. If I am not liking the look of something, due to color, or maybe the shape is all wrong for me, I generally finish the item and then either give it to a friend or donate to the charity shop.

But the other day I was moving something in the sewing room closet and came across that rarest of items, an unfinished object. An almost finished black wool skirt. With pockets! a potential wardrobe workhorse! Which was really great for many reasons, the primary one was that I was just about to cut out a black wool skirt. Eek. So after a few moments of mental fog I remembered that I started last spring, just as it was really heating up around here, decided to set it aside to finish in the fall, and promptly forgot completely about it.

Such a great pattern, super quick to sew, very easy to fit and has nice pockets that are a snap.



I never even noticed the View D where the pockets are vertical. might have to try that.
Never mind, mental fog again. I did make that version but it was a bit of an improvisation as I reused the pocket welts from the existing coat when I did the coat refashion into a skirt and jacket.  That blue outfit is SO warm. Which I guess is what you get when you make a skirt/jacket out of a thick boucle wool coat.

Anyway - back to the current version. Not really exciting I suppose but as I said, a wardrobe workhorse and perfect to wear with black boots and tights.



What is happening, I look rather linebacker-y here? I should give some thought to the Better Pictures Project by Gillian which is such a great idea. but I probably won't :) So sometimes I can achieve nice photos taken in lovely lighting and sometimes we get crappy timer photos as I am rushing off to do something else. Hey I'd rather be sewing.....hmm idea....who wants to buy a bumper sticker?  Aside - does anyone still do bumper stickers, they were a staple of my childhood but I don't see them as often anymore - I think those window cling thingies or the license plate holders have surpassed them. The political campaign ones are occasionally spotted. T-shirts have overtaken bumper stickers as the means to wear one's motto, I suppose. (my personal fav - life's a beach).

Back to sewing, view of pockets and waistband.



and inside view. I used a regular zipper for a change. (What a breeze to sew in a nice old fashioned regular zipper). This photo below is more accurate for the color of this black wool,  the one above is a bit overexposed.




When I pulled the skirt out of the closet the lining was attached but I hadn't hemmed the skirt or lining and also the lining needed to be attached at the zipper. I used a plain black cotton for the waistband inside, and then a bemberg rayon for the rest. Because I don't like itchy wool on the inside but if I use lining there then you have the proverbial spinning skirt. You KNOW just what I mean. How you are going through your day and realize that your center back zipper is somewhere east or west of where it should be. Because the slippery nature of the inside of the skirt lets it move around. So using a cotton there just gives it a tiny bit of grippy-ness that tends to keep it properly located.

What about the t-shirt you are asking? Or maybe you aren't..... It is my favorite long sleeve t-shirt pattern, Burda 6990.



A look at the pattern envelope. I LOVE this pattern. So easy to make, fits like a dream and it is perfect for using up scraps of various knits. As demonstrated by the one on the left. All remnants for the WIN!
The blue one is a remnant I bought at Stone Mountain (if you go there check their remnants sections, some nice finds in there). Although I am not 100% about the pattern placement but with 1.3 yards you get what you get. And I keep saying I will make the other versions on this pattern, like that big dramatic cowl version, but so far I have not gotten to it.



So that is the latest on UFOs and scrap sewing. I have been really busy lately plus some construction/remodel stuff which is now all completed and we are all ready for the rain to arrive. The weather forecasters keep promising but so far not much.

I can report that it is quasi coat weather now. My shorts are all put away and I am planning on sewing a coat. Because there is a pattern that has been haunting me for at least two winters and someone just gave me some fantastic fabric that they didn't want to use, and wanted it "to go to a good home". So nice! Which means that I have to use it well. Stay tuned for coat sewing and tailoring to bust out here soon. I have all kinds of resolve to pound it out over Thanksgiving weekend.
Plus I have 2 silk blouses in the works (well patterns adjusted and matching thread obtained if that counts as in the works).

Speaking of coat patterns - everyone is talking about coats, pinning coats, sewing coats. So I think a Pattern Whisperer post on coats is overdue. Because I am a maniac about fit I think it will be patterns that have lots of options for adjustment to get a good fit. Any interest?

happy autumnal* sewing, Beth

* I have always liked that word, autumnal. even though I could do without autumn
For today's garden photo, a very autumnal coloration of sunflower, which bloomed at the end of summer.

Vogue 9032 has improved my attitude about pants

As evidenced by the many many muslins I have sewn over the past couple of years, fitting pants is one category where I had almost admitted defeat. And I'm not quite sure why.  We all have figure quirks, mine being no more or less exceptional than anyone else's. But for some reason I just have trouble with pants.

I think the fact that I can usually go into most any store and with a bit of effort find a pair of pants that fits quite well is also a factor. Why deal with fitting etc when I can find pretty much whatever I need via retail. But it did nag at me, and of course if you want something specific it is never to be found when shopping for just that item. So pants fitting, I have persevered and thanks to Vogue 9032 I think my luck has improved.

By the way - I did have reasonable success with the Sewaholic pants pattern but I do like the idea of the back princess seam on pants which allows for that extra bit of fitting if needed.
OK - enough talking, you want to see some results, right?



These are wearable but not particularly noteworthy. I just wanted to see if I could get this pattern to work, as it was designed so a basic trouser. I used the version C which is a flat front, slant pocket and more fitted leg. Although I shortened the pants by 3 inches, and did that at the knee so that took away a bit of the slight bootcut look. I think when I make them next (oh yeah, there will be another version) I will adjust the length both above and below the knee so that the leg shaping will remain. I might make them a bit more fitted in the leg as well but I think that is something you can do once the pants are machine basted together but that fit depends so much on the fabric choice.




Basting - my secret weapon. Perhaps a bit overdramatic but I mostly machine baste everything I sew. It takes just a few minutes, stitch, hop up, quick try on, a few pins on seams here and there, re-stitch, try on again, until satisfied. Then I go back to my pattern pieces, mark up my corrected seam lines, and happily put those pattern pieces away for next time (which may or may not ever arrive). Then I "for real" stitch up any seams that were basted, trim excessive seam allowances and press press press. Sometimes after pressing the fit might need one more little tweak. Because when trying on something, and pin-fitting a garment cut with intentionally large seam allowances all that bulk can get in the way of pin fitting, and once trimmed away there still might be a tiny adjustment. Probably on a dress bodice I would be super fussy but pants need room to be active so not as critical.

Adjustments made on this pattern:

• Raised the center back. Despite being on the short side (5'3") I have a super long waist-to-hip length measurement (10.5")  More proof of my claim that body length in the various segments is just as important as body circumference. I guess this is commonly called long waisted - but really it is long-hipped?  Or I would like to invent a new acronym, as we use FBA for full-bust-adjustment. I need the LBA (I hesitate to write it, but here goes...the long butt adjustment). If you try on pants or jeans in the store and you see that tiny 2 or 3 inch zipper and know in your heart that those pants  - even if they fit and zip are basically like wearing a bikini in terms of where they hit on your torso - then you too might need the LBA. Just to show that there in infinite variation in the species, my sister can try on the same pair of pants and the waist could be over her belly-button and verging on old man pants pulled up to the ribcage. Interesting huh? and this is why we sew!!!    Anyway - I raised the back about 2 inches in the center and tapered to actually lowering 1/2 in in the center front. It was OK but is still a work in progress. They feel too high in the front and could possibly be about 1/2' lower in the back and still be comfortable.
• Took in the back waist at the center about 1" total
• Added small darts on each back side piece. I could have taken the center back in more or even the princess seams but it would have made those seams too close together and look weird. It might look weird anyway but I will not be likely to tuck in a shirt. I mostly wear sweaters or knot tops. But I am wearing a silk blouse so you can see the whole pants front. 
• made the waistband about 3/8" wider. It just looked kind of skimpy.
• Added a seam in the center back of the waistband. For adjustment. Seems like a no-brainer but a lot of women's pants and pants patterns don't have this. I suppose for esthetic reasons but for sewing reasons totally necessary. This pattern does have seams in the waistband at the side seams, and I did take it in a bit there. Basically I fit my hip measurement and then adjust the waist. 
• All kinds of scooping and changing of the seat, which is also something that will need further experimentation.
• Fish-eye dart in upper thigh back. Since this pant has a seam running down the center of each leg there is the opportunity to remove some of that bagging under the seat which seems inevitable. I took out about an inch at the center tapering to zero at the side seam and inseam. I'm pretty happy with that and figure if I took out any more there would be no walking or sitting room in the back of the pants.
• More adjustments with that back seam. I took it in under the bum about an inch. See this photo below. The pants are done but I just drew that blue line to indicate where I took the seam in.

I really like this fabric and have no idea where I got it but a vague idea that I ordered it from Emma One Sock a long time ago. Its a really high quality stretch woven, probably has some cotton, maybe rayon, lycra, who knows. But it is a nice useful grey shade.

Here's the back view. Which I am kind of self-conscious and really don't like seeing however in the interest of pants fitting science...  Yes that backside needs some pockets or something to break up the expanse. Next version. Plus I like having back welt pockets.



If you look at pants long enough you start to see all kinds of wrinkles etc so its best to get them to fit and then move on - literally. No matter how you fit, once you move the fabric will do what it wants and create folds, wrinkles etc. Some are just the nature of the garment and I need to give it a rest. Seeing this photo they might be a bit short but I always have to decide with my pants - flats or heels so I think this pair is more for flats.  Also looking at this the front waist could be slightly lower, but I was trying to make kind of a basic trouser and then figured I could play with that later.



The garden is looking terrible, this is the low ebb, nothing  blooming, water rationing in full force, however if I took this today you would see a pile of supplies and tools on the lawn. The patio cover is being redone and the whole wood frame painted to match the house in a pale sage green. Why was it red? I think some previous owner had a can of that paint. Having an older house means finding out all kinds of oddball stuff that previous owners did when they remodeled or repaired. Don't get me started on the irrigation system - it is still working on a wing and a prayer.

So onward to more pants! I have some dark purple stretch woven that I think is bengaline? which I bought a while ago at Joann's of all places (a nice fabric hiding in plain sight among all the crap).

Yesterday someone gave me a giant piece of gorgeous wool coating which I am going to use to make a pattern I have been thinking about for two years. I am so excited! Stay tuned for more tailoring in the near future.
Right now I am finishing up two dresses for my friend Heather from her haul of Mood fabrics. I just cut out a fuchsia wool knit that is the dreamiest fabric. Details to follow.

It was actually chilly today - real coat weather - sort of. I did see some people in shorts and flip flops. Actually we see that 12 months of the year here. I get cold just looking at them!

Happy Fall Sewing, Beth

Save yourself from the clutches of alteration!

Do you ever look at vintage patterns just for the instructions? Perhaps this just shows how deep into sewing obscurities I can delve but my obsession with all things sewing related leads me to purchase completely unnecessary yet interesting vintage (or semi-vintage) patterns.

Some small detail or appealing illustration can be enough to draw me in. As long as the cost is minimal  - and most of these patterns are found at various sales among bins and bins of old patterns for any price ranging from pennies to a couple of dollars.

Which brings me to this pattern I found at a recent ASG stash sale. If you have the opportunity to paw through the stack or bins of old patterns it becomes apparent just how many pattern companies there have been, some still succeeding, some disappearing without a trace, others being absorbed into a bigger entity. Today's independent pattern companies are carrying on a long tradition of sewing patterns and often creating something to fill a particular niche.

This pattern caught my eye and when I got a chance to look through the instructions they did not disappoint! When you read criticism of literature, they often mention the writer's voice. There is no mistaking that the author of these pattern instructions had a very specific voice - which might seem a bit dated but is very entertaining and include some very apt admonitions as well.

Else of California pattern, copyright is 1968. On the back they manage to give the fabric requirements for all sizes for every one of the possible options. Who doesn't want a pair of Flare Bells in their wardrobe?




Now we get to the entertaining part, which is not really part of the sewing or fitting instructions, but what struck me as more like editorial comments sprinkled throughout.

"There's a whole new world of pants waiting for you in this pattern...What's more...no matter what size you are, straight as a boy or beautifully bumpy, this pair of pants is going to fit"   

bumpy?  that's a new one.




This might be my FAVORITE one of the bunch, where she talks about taking your measurements and says
 "Don't try to conduct the ceremony yourself, call in a close-mouthed friend and swear her to secrecy, if necessary"







No, wait. This part is my favorite.

"RIGHT HERE IS WHERE YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF FROM THE CLUTCHES OF ALTERATION!"

I like that idea - being saved from the clutches of alteration. Someone should use that if you are writing a sewing book. Most sewing books are so cheerful and upbeat in a way that is perhaps a teensy bit unrealistic (cue ironic smile here) After all, fitting/pattern adjustment is kind of tricky. And perhaps should be acknowledged as so a bit more often. Although I do have to give a shout-out to some of the Sandra Betzina sewing books, I have a few of her older ones, I think the Power Sewing series and she is so matter of fact about fit issues, what most everyone wants to highlight or obscure. A very rational point of view.
Anyhow, apparently Else of California can save us from the CLUTCHES OF ALTERATION!
I love that phrase! and now will try to use it in regular conversation, to confuse my friends.




Here's the helpful diagram which shows how to get all those variations from this one pattern. Talk about a good value. Which again illustrates my frequent point that there are no new patterns - or very few new patterns/pattern ideas.  I do like how they have both a high waist with waistband or a lower cut pant option in the instructions and suppose you could modify with zipper placement, pockets etc to get all kinds of looks out of this pattern.



The fitting instructions are good, I would say they are like a condensed version of the entire Palmer and Pletsch Pants fitting book made to fit on one page which is clever. And sprinkled throughout are more crazy tidbits about hip pillows, baby darts and other fit adjustments that I have never heard of. (or never heard with those titles).



Lastly we come to the most important pants fitting conundrum - the saggy seat. Which Else has helpfully illustrated with this poor women who despite appearing quite trim and shapely has the dreaded baggy bottom. But Else has a solution. I did get a few tips from her instructions so hey - most anything is worthwhile if you learn something new.



The pattern pieces have been mostly cut down on the size 38 line (shame on you, non tracer of patterns) so not really useful for me, perhaps I will do a pattern giveaway on this one.  But I think I have learned enough from Else and added a new zingy phrase to my vocab (clutches of alteration-ration-ration, now I hear it in my head with that movie echo effect).

Plus I have made an actual wearable totally satisfactory pair of pants using Vogue 9092 and it was not  ALL THAT BAD! you have no idea how annoying I have found pants recently. Fitting pants sewing patterns, I mean. I have no trouble buying pants - they seem to fit perfectly fine if I buy them, but sewing fit has eluded me until now.  Will try to take some pics this weekend.

Lots of sewing to do this weekend, I am in the midst of another version of this fantastic Burda dress for my friend Heather and I want to make a silk blouse for myself because the fabric is burning the proverbial hole in my pocket. Does that analogy apply to newly purchased fabric? I think so.

Halloween on a Saturday night, clear warm weather. Talk about terrifying! Mine is a very trick-or-treat favorable neighborhood and it so much fun to see the cute little ones that start as soon as it gets dark, and then exhausting by about 8 pm when the ridiculous almost-teenagers are showing up. On the plus side, each year one of my neighbors holds a sort of cocktail party on their front lawn - so we all close up shop, dim those porch lights around 9 and head down the street for some much needed iquid refreshment.

Happy Halloween weekend sewing! 
Beth

Random Threads # 16, Musings and pattern talk

Do you know that phrase "be careful what you wish for?" I'm sure you do and I feel that sentiment lately, as I always wish for summer to last all year. However - my sewing mojo has completely disappeared and I attribute that to the lack of autumnal weather. Looking back on the past few years I always seem to have some post in October mentioning how we haven't started wearing jackets or boots but this year our forecast has been extra balmy. Feels a bit Los Angeleno, eek! 80's˚F most every day and I am actually getting a bit tired of it. even though taking an after dinner walk wearing shorts and a t-shirt is very pleasant.
Oh well, check back in January when I am complaining about our admittedly not polar winter. Note for travelers - so many microclimates here in the SF Bay area so check before packing your suitcase, you could find yourself shivering as you admire the Golden Gate if you don't bring a bit of everything.
Anyway - that is a long way round to say that I feel like I have quite a few fall or winter coats and jackets, so even though I love to sew them I just can't get motivated. Recently I bought some silks so I think this fall will be a festival of shirts and blouses.

Apropos of nothing:  I am mildly obsessed with this Marfy dress pattern that I happened to see on their website. Talk about out of season! now that fall is approaching (sort of, see paragraph above). Anyway I am a sucker for a white dress and I can see that exactly as they have pictured, with the ribbon trim. Maybe I will order the PDF and put it away for spring. I had such good luck with my previous Marfy pattern - something about their proportions is very very good. Italiani e la moda, sanno quello che fanno. (they know what they are doing :) By the way they have some links on their website to sewing videos, I watched this one all the way though. While I do these pockets all the time I was kind of mesmerized by the person doing it - with no markings or tailors tacks. And as in the  couture houses I have seen on various documentaries, the person sewing is wearing what looks like a white lab coat. I like that touch - maybe I will get one to up my sewing game.

Searching for something new: Not sure I am planning to enter but I saw an upcoming contest on Pattern Review titled "New to me pattern company" and thought that was a fun idea. So I have been looking....and looking, with nothing jumping out at me that I want to try. I was looking for an interesting jacket pattern, and I have already sewn Burda, Pauline Alice, StyleArc, Marfy, all the big US ones, even once made a Grainline pattern. So a new to me pattern company with an interesting jacket - so far nothing found. I saw a shawl collar jacket pattern from Waffle patterns but it didn't really thrill me or seem much different to what I already have.  Any ideas? I might have to try a blouse or shirt.

So far all pattern releases have saved me from opening my wallet - nothing I am craving that is any different from patterns I already have - yay! for both $$ and space saving. I am kind of amazed by how many independent pattern designers jump in with a new pattern that is indistinguishable from the many that are already out there. However talking with friends who are learning I see that the instructions/sew-alongs etc are helpful.  If I produced a pattern (which I am NOT) it would be like Marfy - here are the pattern pieces and sew it up! Mainly because I would be terrible at writing the instructions :)

Flat Pattern Measureing: Do you do it? I read a lot of posts where someone has sewed something by choosing a size but didn't look at the finished measurements or measure the pattern. My advice - do it.  See below, the finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern but if they weren't you can use the measure tape, be sure to omit the seam allowance if it is on the pattern and then add front and back to get circumference. I saw a lot of questions on some knit patterns recently about finished garment measurements and negative ease. If you are really questioning, mark out that number with pins on your chosen piece of fabric and then wrap it around, hips, bust, whatever area you are concerned. If you like how that fabric feels at that circumference then great but if not alter, or find a different fabric. I think doing a bit of testing your uncut fabric, draping it over your arms, or wrapping around can tell you a lot about how it will look as a finished garment and save some time and/or money by helping select the right fabric.



Burda Plus envelope patterns: There are a lot of hidden gems among the Burda Plus patterns, and particularly in the envelope patterns. (actually I also think there are some good ones in the Simplicity plus patterns too).  For many reasons a lot of Big 4 or indie patterns don't include all sizes and I think with a bit of searching you can find a lot of silhouettes in Burda that can be varied to emulate some of those patterns. I can't speak for all figure types but Burda plus patterns seem to have the proportions more right than others, in that the shoulders do not get so wide along with a larger bust. Anyway - just a little love from me for these patterns - I have used them for various people with good success. Also I love a multi-size pattern, so easy to grade between sizes for top half/bottom half, sleeves etc. I am now in the process of sewing this pattern for someone and it is really nice. I did adjust the neckline slightly for more coverage but will show all the pattern alteration details in a post when it is finished. I also bought the Burda 6713 blouse pattern, which also shows it as a dress. I like that Burda finds ways to create interesting details with creative necklines and dart shaping.




Investment in Sewing Tools: I saw a great post by Karen of Did you make that? the other day,  about which sewing tools turned out to be very good investments for her. I agree wholeheartedly about the wooden clapper, and I have waxed lyrical about the benefits of high quality interfacing many times. (My fave is from Fashion Sewing Supply, all the different types they sell, and I just noticed a sale on now ,15% off,  I will be stocking up on the ProSheer Elegance and ProTricot deluxe).

She also mentioned buying and loving the very expensive invisible zipper foot, which seems like just the thing for a lot of people. In the comments quite a few mentioned that zipper foot plus the walking foot. I wonder if that is a Bernina thing? A machine I have never tried. As I have mentioned probably ad nauseam the machine I use for anything fussy is my Slant needle Singer 401 with the sliding zipper foot, here is a link and post with details on using that foot.  I have so many interesting feet for my vintage machines, they are incredibly well made. However the only ones I use are the zipper foot, the buttonholer and once in a while the ruffling foot or the pleater. I have never quite mastered the narrow hemming foot. To tell the truth I forget about them and just plow ahead with the standard one - so far so good.

Why reading blogs is good for me:  I have very fixed ideas about what looks good, what is the right fit, colors I love or hate, styles that are gorgeous or ridiculous and thankfully everyone else in the sewing blogosphere does not have the same point of view. Wouldn't that be a boring world if everyone had the same taste?
What I am trying to say is there is a lot of stitching available to view that are things I would never choose and that is a good thing. I see colors that I don't like but realize that someone else has picked a perfect shade for their own look. I see patterns that appear crazy or shapeless or difficult to wear and come across a blog post where someone has paired that pattern with a fantastic fabric and created something beautiful and unique. I see techniques that I can't be bothered learning but find amazing and so creative. Sewing blogs (and the related websites, instagram, etc) have really helped me view fashion and sewing in a different way, all to the good.
I probably won't be dyeing any fabric, or adding grommets, felting, embellishing or otherwise manipulating fabric but I have a growing admiration for everyone who does those things. Thinking about when I learned to sew and remembering that my only audience was my family and school friends gives me a greater appreciation for every new sewer that picks out a pattern, gives it a try and posts their creation - often baring their soul regarding fit, body issues and their feelings about clothing and appearance along with their sewing triumphs and failures. I wonder if I would have been quite so willing to share my early attempts.

As for recent attempts, I am trying another pants pattern (pants are my achilles heel, my white whale, my pot of gold at the end of the rainbow) In other words, I am never satisfied at fitting myself with pants. Anyway, giving it another try with this Vogue pattern, which has back princess seams. There are a lot of good versions to see so a girl can dream, right? I will report, if not model.



Happy almost Halloween sewing and have a great weekend,
Beth

another garden photo remaining from my vacation, in a somewhat autumnal color scheme. I see these Birds of Paradise growing around here in my neighborhood, even though they are a tropical plant. Just have to find the right spot where they never freeze. One of these years I will give it a try.