Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Suit for a Japanese Wedding Part 2

This week I finished the suit that Rita is wearing to her son's wedding in Japan.  Here is the finished jacket and skirt.  As mentioned in the previous post, I used McCall's 5759 for the jacket. While the jacket looks great on Rita, I am not happy with the way it looks on the dress form, the collar sinks a bit and the heavy buttons kind of pull a bit.  The fabric was fantastic to work with.
Hopefully I will get a great photo from the occasion to post.

Rita is an artist and forges metal pieces, so she chose some very unique buttons that are a burnished metal.  This jacket style, with the hidden buttonholes lends itself well to a distinctive button so if anyone has some special buttons they are waiting to use - maybe give this one a try.

Here are a few construction details.  Across the back I put a layer of black muslin which serves to stabilize the shoulders and add a layer so the shoulder pads don't show on the right side of the fabric.  Where the collar and jacket pieces attach, I trimmed and sew down the seam allowances,  also done on the inside collar and jacket facing.
Jacket collar inside

On the inside collar, I did put an extra piece of pellon interfacing on top of the knit fusible interfacing to add a bit more stiffness to the collar.

Collar facing with extra Interfacing

For the hems I pin up and press a sharp line, then run a basting thread along that line to mark the hem.  I press on a 3" wide piece of armo-weft type interfacing along that hem which gives the hem crease a softer turn, and allows the hem stitches to be perfectly hidden.
Rita jacket hem work
Rita hem 2

For the skirt I used SImplicity 2451, changing the waistband to make it almost straight across instead of curved, and narrowing the waistband by about 3/4" from the top.  

Rita skirt

and today's SunnyGal garden photo.   



  1. Great post, Beth! I love the detail you explain with the photos! Cathy

  2. The suit turned out very nice. The buttons are great. Thank you for the tailoring details and photos to demonstrate the step!


  3. Oh my! The suit turned out beautifully!! Nice job!

  4. Absolutely stunning! Thank you for the peeks inside- I like seeing what inner workings make for such a gorgeous result.

  5. This suit really turned out very elegant. Very grateful for the tailoring details it's very helpful.

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  6. Love this jacket!! The shape is so interesting, you could guess it's meant for an artist :) Very nice work on the inside too.