Thursday, March 24, 2011

These pants are amazing!

Pants are not my favorite think to sew, I almost never make them for myself.  However this week I am making some pants to go with a suit I made for Rita last year.

S2770 pants

Simplicity 2700  Amazing Fit pants
with pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy figure types.
As I said in the title, these pants - or at least the pattern -  are amazing.   They fit well as designed on a variety of figure types. This is the third time I have made some variation of this pattern.  

I am using the average fit - and then did some adjustments in the waist. 

For the fly front I used the Sandra Betzina fly front method - blogged about by many other sewers.

The pants are stitched together and waiting for a try-on so until then no photo of finished item. I take a lot of liberties with patterns and am not exactly an instruction reader.  Sometimes on pants you can see an outline of the pocket bag on the leg of the pant and I think that looks odd, to avoid that I make a few changes.

I cut out the pocket pieces in grey bemberg rayon lining fabric using the pattern pieces, and then put an overlay of the wool fabric on the edge, stitched that together and recut the piece, so that it is edged with the wool fabric but mostly lining.    Here it is already sewn to the pants front, turned and pressed, and understitched.

Grey wool pants 1

I make the same modification on the back of the pocket, use the lining on the lower half of the pocket and the wool fabric on the part that shows, extending that about 2 inches into the pocket.   Then using the dots on both pieces I marked with tailor's tacks ( you know how much I love them)  I match the pocket back to pants front and pin.  Then I sew the bottom seam of the pocket.    With the changes made sometimes the bottom of the two pocket pieces don't line up but that does not matter, the important thing is to get the top and side to match and lay flat.
Lastly I stitch across the top and side seam, to secure the whole thing and keep it flat.

Grey wool pants 2

Now I have a pocket that has disappeared.  No one needs any extra lines or bumps on the front of the thigh.   These pants will be fully lined so the pocket with be hidden inside the lining.

With this pattern, the back waistband is split in two pieces, very much like menswear pants and a great way have that place to adjust fit.  I have been doing this on a lot of waistbands but the pattern does it for you.  Not exactly "amazing"  but a good change in their design.
The resulting waistband pieces all look very similar, so I use chalk to scrawl letters on the various pieces, indicating front, back, center seam.   Scrawl being the operative word.  Not much different than my actual handwriting.   But it will disappear into the garment.  Go ahead, write on your wrong sides!  very liberating and immensely useful.  Does anyone else write on their fabric?

Grey wool pants 4

We are supposed to get up to 2" of rain today - so a perfect day to stay inside and FINISH
so many things that are on my sewing table.  

Pink Azalea 0311

Here is today's SunnyGal garden photo.   On a day without rain last week, I took this photo of one of the azaleas that has burst into bloom.  I want a new dress in this color !

1 comment:

  1. This is a really good idea! I've been known to do this one before, but mainly for the reason I did not buy enough fabric, hehe....
    A friend of mine put me onto a good idea, make a pair of very simple trousers out of lining fabric which can then be worn under any set of pants, adding an extra layer of warmth during winter, and can be left off altogether during summer when it is too hot for lining to be tolerated. This is a more versatile alternative to adding a permanent lining to a pair of trousers.