Friday, August 3, 2018

Dress: Burda 05-2018-114A sheath dress with waist tie in cotton gauze

News bulletin - I'm really liking the fact that I finally subscribed to Burda Magazine. I suppose after a few years I will have a big stockpile of the magazines as many long time Burda readers do. At that time I might be a bit uninterested, and wonder if I should keep it up. But since I am in the early phase of Burda infatuation I find it really fun to get that issue in the mail and page through it.

When the May issue arrived I saw a number of patterns that I really liked, but this one jumped out at me right away. Also I saw a fellow blogger (the fabulous Ellen in Norway) made the same dress and she blogged it on May 20. She so speedy!

Here's my version, and for variety a new photo location. Which turned out to be far more interesting than I would have guessed. Consequently lots of pics in this post.

orange dress 1

It's not really all that out of the ordinary, a simple princess seamed bodice, a straight skirt with some pleats at the waist, and then the sash tie which is sewn into the side seams. But I find it very appealing. This fabric is kind of a mystery item that I bought at a garage sale last month, it's a crinkly gauze, cotton presumably.  Here's the magazine view. Oh how I wish they would include more photos of each item, maybe the back and at the least not obscure the item with some arty pose or an accessory. Oh well....


Left of the sleeves because that's my style in the summer. It's either sleeveless or long sleeves for me.

Dress form view.
orange dress front on form

orange dress side and back view

Sewing details:  I think raised the center front of the neckline about 3/8" of an inch. Since I'm short a lot of necklines end up a bit low, so I will either raise the neckline at the center front or sometimes I take the whole thing up at the shoulders, it just depends on the pattern. For this one I probably could have left it as is but I am happy with the proportions. I'm really partial to that neckline shape in both the front and the back, in my mind I always call it a "rounded square" neckline shape.

orange dress neckline closeup

A closer look at the neckline and the fabric. You can see it is a bit crinkly like gauze which makes it quite nice to wear. The color looks different in every photograph. I asked on Instagram if the print was pumpkins or what, and most commenters thought apples. But due to the orangey color I still see pumpkins.

Interlude between serious sewing details for a slightly corny photo. I thought this bandstand would make a nice backdrop but had to tell some kids to scram before posing. Like all the other selfie taking dorks in the part that evening. But keep reading - a much better photo spot to follow. At least I thought so.

orange dress 5

More sewing details:  I cut a size 38 which is my usual size in Burda. I added a bit in the waist and hips for fitting purposes and I think retained only some of that when I sewed up the side seams.

When I trace out the Burda patterns and before I add seam allowance I try to measure the finished garment measurements to see how the fit will be and then do adjustments at that point. Below shows the bodice pattern pieces aligned so I can measure the finished circumference at bust and waist. This is the kind of thing I try to get people to become comfortable in my fitting classes, to know your way around a pattern before you even start with adjusting. Most people aren't using Burda patterns but a lot of patterns tell a finished measure but people don't really have an idea as to what that means. And it might not land on your body at the same place as they calculate, so it pays to do your own.


The whole bodice is lined with cotton batiste, and I put interfacing on the orange fabric around the neckline only, front and back. Also down the center back seam. I wasn't planning to line the skirt but the fabric was a bit see-through.
orange dress zipper lining

Rummaging through my lining box I came across a sewn together skirt lining in an ivory color that I must have extracted from something ages ago - and figured sometime I could reuse it. So score! Skirt lining sorted. Talk about a quick one, just had to attach it at the waist to the bodice lining.



Last but not least, I added pockets. Which you probably can't see in this photo but they are there, in the side seams. The pattern doesn't have them but they are easy to add and don't show at all due to the pleats (as opposed to a sleeker skirt style with darts where the pocket outline might show).

And what seems like a pleasant and quite park contains an interesting feature. Check out that strange sculpture ? behind me. Is it a nest? a Hobbit dwelling? I'm not sure how long it's been there and have probably driven by it never noticing. Or it could be new and will be gone in a few weeks. Actually I just googled and it will be there until 2020 so expect more on location photos. Perhaps on a dark and moody rainy day. Which seems very far off right now.

orange dress 2

orange dress6

orange dress3

So that's the latest on finished projects. Actually today I made a top version of the Bondi dress in a remnant of silk. And I have plenty of other projects in the works.
Next weekend (Sun. Aug 12) we are doing the Bondi dress class again at Hello Stitch Studio. Here's my Bondi dress blog post, and I will post my top version soon as well.

Tomorrow is my Wrap dress class at Hello Stitch, which is sold out 😊 and after this month we are moving on to autumn and winter items (like a cape class, a jacket class, and the Lander pants).

Is it August already???  oh summer is flying by and I don't like that. Summer forever! although with the temps around the world lately that just might be the case and I don't wish for that.

Thinking cheerful weather thoughts for everyone.

Happy Summer Sewing,

Today's garden photo, this little very old rose that doesn't bloom all that much but I keep it around because the color is so lovely.




  1. You have done such a great job with this lovely dress! I made one in jersey, but I like yours even better, so maybe I have to sew another one ;-) Fabulous picture!

  2. That’s a great summer dress! Lovely photos too, I especially like the one of you inside the sculpture/hobbit house thing.

  3. It's a lovely dress and so nice to see you in that colour

  4. Love the dress. Very flattering!

  5. Cute dress and it looks lovely on you!

    I serendipitously subscribed to Burdastyle in mid 2010 and I'm still a subscriber. From time to time I get bored with some phase the editors seem to be going through, but it always eventually peaks my interest again. I like having my own 'catalog' of patterns that I can often hack into whatever. The issue I have is organizing those patterns (or rather, organizing my ability to search for them).

    Back when I was more industrious I downloaded the images from each issue from the German Burda site and put them in a database. Then a few years ago I had to change computers and my database app was too outdated. Now I just search the German Burda website when I'm looking for something specific. It is more comprehensive than the US site and although I have to use German terms, it is much better.

    For more views of the styles try taking a look at the Russian Burda site. For whatever reason they post the newest issue earlier and tend to have all the views (magazine photo, modeled (mannequin) shots, and tech drawings) all together and available more consistently. Unfortunately the US site does not post all of this, which is kind of weird and disappointing. It seems to be more focused on the download sales.

  6. I really like this dress and love your version. You crack me up with “hey look at this random skirt lining I had lying around!” :) I love it.

    Your pics are super cute! Love the hobbit dwelling structure!

  7. It is so pretty .The color looks pinkish on my tablet .

  8. I know what you mean about the Burda, beeing a subscriber, it is nice to get it every month and look thru it. I have that with two other magazines , hahah, my staple is enormous but I am sewing more from magazines so I feel good about it . Love your dress , very nice fit and the fabric is perfect for the summer. PS cool artwork!

  9. Lovely dress, I don't have that pattern as I am on a pattern magazine fast... you are right with Burda, you love it at the beginning but after a while you get bored, however, I still find gems I want to sew in Burdas from 2012..(that's the year I started to sew and buy Burda).

  10. Such a lovely dress, Beth! I forgot to renew my Burda subscripttion. Will have to buy the August and September one separately.
    By the way, there's a similar structure in Palo Alto that's permanent.

  11. The dress is perfect for summer. I love your pattern choice and the princess seamed bodice with a bow.
    The backdrops in the pictures are so nice! I would love to visit there!

  12. Beth, this is a really cute summer dress.

  13. Beautiful dress and I love the arty photos. I traced this one out and that is as far as I got with it - I need to rummage through the stash and get round to making it!