Sunday, September 6, 2020

Resort wear dreams: Jumpsuit from the cover of Burda June 2020 #101

Once in a while the new issue of Burda arrives and immediately I want to make the item pictured on the cover. However I rarely do it, as other things start to catch my eye. This time I traced out the pattern and to test I sewed it up in a quilting cotton. Not the ideal material but something I had in my stash. That accomplished I actually ordered some woven rayon to use for the real jumpsuit. Despite a lot of fabric in my stash there was nothing suitable so I ordered from Fabric Mart and the print with the vertical striping was ideal.

Blue jumpsuit 3

As patterns go this is really easy to sew up. I wanted to check if the pants fit would be right so I compared the pieces to my Emerson pants which have a similar loose fit. The length of the rise was very similar so I didn't have to do a lot of adjustment for this pattern, I made the bodice portion in size 38 and the bottom half in size 42 - blending at the waist so they joined up.

Jumpsuit Burda Magazine pattern image

Here's the pattern photo and the line drawing. The pattern is June 2020 #101. Their version is ankle length but I think that looks terrible on me so I lengthened a lot.

jumpsuit front on form

jumpsuit front tie

This pattern is designed for the knot to be loosely tied, so that the sides can fold and drape over the hips. I've seen some versions where the knot is tied very tightly and to me that looks a bit strained. I think also if you are quite tall then the bodice may need to be lengthened so that the drape can cover the front elastic waist.   Can you see that I had to piece the fabric on one side? The two fronts are cut with the tie as part of the bodice, and with lengthening the pants I was a bit short on fabric. So I pieced the end of the tie with a french seam there and I think it hides well enough.

There's a look at the front waist and how the bodice folds under at the side seam to create the tie and draping. I think this is such a clever and yet simple design, I will definitely make it again next summer and perhaps even a dress version.

jumpsuit inside waist tie


Bluejumpsuit9

Not quite resort location, more like the backyard swimming pool at my parents house. Which I really appreciate this summer and especially this week - as I write today the afternoon temperature is around 110℉ which seems par for the course for this very weird summer. Not that we don't occasionally have heat waves but the staying mostly home has made for a very hot and boring summer here in N. California without a lot of the options we might typically have (like going to the movies or a nice chilly restaurant). Growing up with a pool I started swimming very early but the idea of swimming for exercise has eluded me. Not this year - with the gym closed and the smokey air making walking unpleasant I feel fortunate to have this alternative.

Returning to sewing, here's the back view. The back top blouses at the waist, perhaps more than in the pattern pictures as I am shorter, but for a jumpsuit it makes it quite comfortable when you sit down!

jumpsuit back

Bluejumpsuit7

One other change I made on this pattern is to reshape the neckline front and back. When I made the test version I thought the tank top was a bit chunky - not very elegant looking and it needed some reshaping. To find a nice neckline I looked through my photos and realized that using this dress pattern would be a good way to reshape the neckline. Also I have to restrain myself from wearing that dress for any and all occasions that require a summer dress - I think it is my favorite of the last few years.


jumpsuit side view on form

And what about getting in and out of this number for a bathroom break? Well one benefit of widening the neckline is that I can pull it up or down over my hips and shoulders without unfastening the back. Although be warned untying the knot in front is necessary.

jumpsuit snap back closure

The back has a short slit opening to make it possible to get in and out, although as I mentioned with my neckline change I can just about do it without undoing that snap. As seen in my other posts, I don't like those loop/button things so I always make a little tab and sew on a snap, I think it stays flatter and then the closure is hidden. 

Here's my tip of the day:  another little thing I like to add to anything that has shoulder straps or sometimes in a tank top shape such as this are the little straps that hold the top of the shoulder in place on your bra strap. I just make them out of the fabric if it's thin or I use a piece of ribbon. My realization one day is that to make it easier, I first sew the snap on the garment, then sew the snap on the end of the strap, then snap together and then lastly sew the end of the strap down on the garment. This way you can make the strap part the right length. This makes it SO much easier than sewing the strap on and then having to place the snaps. 

jumpsuit shoulder snaps




Bluejumpsuit8

So that's the latest on my summer jumpsuit. They also show it in the magazine as a romper which I am tempted but I think it's too late in the season for that. Maybe next spring. 

Next week is the first session of our Hello Stitch Sewing Club (which is a  virtual class in the evening.) We've had lots of sign-ups which is great and I'm glad the studio is able to stay in business during this crazy time, at least in some capacity. And crossing our fingers that things turn around soon so we can all get back to our regular lives. And travel to a resort somewhere :) Meanwhile I will make do with the backyard resort and hope that the temperature is a bit less tomorrow. Forecast is for only 108℉ tomorrow - whew a whole degree cooler! (I jest because what else can we do except pray that the power doesn't get turned off due to fire danger). Oh this is absolutely the best summer ever, she says sarcastically.....

wishing everyone better days to come,

Happy Sewing,  Beth


Today's garden photo - some blue violas from earlier in the summer when things were still very green.
I used to plant pansies but decided I like violas better, they seem to do better and rebloom plus each plant has more flowers. Also they reseed and I find them popping up in random spots which makes me smile. 

IMG_2326

7 comments:

  1. Great jumpsuit, and with the deep tank neckline F & B and open detail at the waist, it must feel breezy on a super hot NorCal day! This looks super on you and fits beautifully, Beth! I love the Burda 2006 dress that you referenced in your adapted neckline: will look for it on Burda Style (not sure if they have older patterns).

    ReplyDelete
  2. Loved your Burda lemons sheath dress, 05-2006-121! As the BurdaStyle website only goes back to 2017, I found the Burda World of Fashion May 2006 edition on Etsy: a bit pricey, but hope I can do this pattern justice!

    p.s. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  4. LOVE the fabric you used! It looks so cool and "breezy". I agree with you about the pants; the ankle length just doesn't look well to me.
    I clicked your link to the "lemon" dress. Wish I'd known about your blog when you made that - it's flat out gorgeous and the fabric is exquisite.

    Happy (belated) Birthday and may you be blessed with many more.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Very cute! Thank you for the tip about the bra strap keeper/hider.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Ah yes, I can certainly see the appeal of this pattern! It translates beautifully, looks great on. Happy Birthday for the other day - September babies for the win! :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Love. Love. LOVE!!!!! I wish I'd gotten to this pattern this summer. It is 45 degrees here right now. sighhhhhhhhhh. Sure, we'll see 70s again, but I'm probably done sewing summer. Wah.

    I love the length and pant width and the tie front and the way the elastic is done and I just love the whole thing! And the fabric! LOL!

    ReplyDelete