Time to show the rest of the construction of this coat so I can post the finished look. Here's the first post on this project.
Let's skip ahead to some fit refinements as everyone likes to see those. I did all the interfacing and then machine basted the coat together for a try-on. I find that even if you fit something in muslin then the thickness and weight of the actual fabric plus interfacing does have an effect that differs. Here I thought that the princess seam above the bust was a bit bulky and not laying smoothly on the upper chest so I just changed the seam every so slightly to correct that. I think the left shows it just basted and then on the right is the inside, it's just about 1/8" of an inch in that hollow of the chest but it makes a nice difference in fit.
![camel coat basting](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655709338_81a55cae48_b.jpg)
I will say this fabric is a bit fussy, as the two sides are just very slightly different but very hard to distinguish. So I probably went overboard with marking with wax chalk and even spots of blue tape on the wrong side of every piece. I don't know how people use pattern weights - I like to keep the paper pattern piece on my cut out pieces until the minute I need it to sew. And using a projector to cut out sounds like a nightmare. I probably don't understand it and this method works for me.
![A667FFFA-EB50-4E8E-B702-4827E8CD900F](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653805478_46c89113fe_b.jpg)
Sometimes I think making a coat is mostly fusing the interfacing! And wondering when can I get to the actual sewing. I used Fashion Sewing Supply
Pro-Weft Supreme Light for this coat (and basically for all coats and jackets). They have the same in "medium" but I have found that too heavy for most anything I have sewn with jacket or coat fabrics. I think the key to choosing interfacing is to support the garment fabric and not change it substantially (unless that is the intent).
![3BB9DDBB-302A-4FAC-87DE-F77AE7B92336](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52652831347_83c4efe500_b.jpg)
Before I get very far along I have to decide about the buttonholes, because if I am going to have bound buttonholes they need to get made prior to sewing on lapel facing. I will say that I have never made a hand worked buttonhole - it's on my list of things I need to teach myself how to do. But this coat was not the time to try it. And the machine buttonholes just look wimpy on this coating fabric.
![Camel coat test buttonholes](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653915398_7f78197eb6_b.jpg)
![2BB15A1A-F510-4C78-A30C-0A2DC7C23AC2](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52653871620_2cbdcf7e65_b.jpg)
I found these buttons at Stone Mountain and they were exactly what I was looking for. I have written lots of posts previously on doing bound buttonholes on the front of a coat, and if you want to see the details here are a couple of links:
Red coat and scroll down on this
plaid coat post.
I think it's interesting that most of the coat and jacket patterns I have made recently (at least all the European ones) have this construction of collar with the small stand, and neither piece is cut on the bias. I find it a bit odd although it works fine. This is as compared to a one-piece under collar cut on the bias.
![E23167F8-42B6-41D7-99C8-C06FAC4F7AD2](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655667715_149044e0d9_b.jpg)
Here are the sleeves ready to go, with interfacing around the armhole and also at the hem. Because I made a muslin and marked the exact sleeve length I could adjust the length and then hem them before attaching to the coat. Also because I sew the lining in by hand as opposed to bagging the lining.
![10CA25DD-C476-411F-9918-16A3B95846D3](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655672775_2763ec3da2_b.jpg)
Here's the inside of the coat with just the last steps of attaching the sleeves and then the hem plus lining. The buttons are sewn on because I always complete the front closures before doing the hem, this insures that the front overlaps nicely and the hem is even at the center front. Note this pattern had in-seam pockets but I changed that to welt pockets across the front princess seam.
![883D6DF1-2846-4A8A-80A2-0C0FAA38F3E2](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52655231181_5ecbcd7208_b.jpg)
Still a few steps to finish the sleeves, doing the sleeve heads and putting the shoulder pads.
![Burda 7169 wool coat](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52654740707_644ed5e0bc_b.jpg)
The next post will be some details on hemming and the finished coat photos.
Since my recent foot surgery (almost at 4 weeks now) I think I will be back to driving later this week although no long trips. And not much work in the garden - it feels ok if I walk very gingerly but I think I need to take it easy for a couple more weeks. I guess that means more sewing!
Up next, I'm making some more corduroy jeans, and then I might squeeze in a wool jacket for myself before the temps warm up. What I really should do is finish my closet cleaning which I promised myself to do during this stuck-at-home time.
Who knows, I might find some gem in my fabric stash, it does seem to suprise me with stuff I forgot all about!
Happy Sewing,
Beth
Here's today's garden picture - We have daffodils! as well there should be, I planted about 80 bulbs in the fall and always forget where I put them so it is a happy suprise when they pop up. Also note on that rose bush all those stems popping out. Spring is coming :)
You are so right-those inside details are catnip for us! Can’t wait to see Heather modeling her new coat. I enjoyed our trouser class very much. Mine are on hold a bit since we are in the middle of a housing move. I’m also loving your floral shots. We’ll be having buds soon as this has been the warmest winter I can remember out here.
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