In October I took a trip to Italy, a place I love and had not been to in quite a few years. Along with brushing up on my Italian all summer I did sew a few items to take on the trip. Top of my sewing list was a multi-purpose and all-season jacket I could dress up or down. Once I decided to make a jacket I thought about fabric and then pockets - who doesn't love a plentitude of pockets when traveling?
While at home I don't wear many garments of ponte knit but it is an ideal fabric for a travel wardrobe. I ordered some swatches from Mood and ended up using this fabric which is their version and comes in a lot of colors. Way before I decided to make a ponte blazer for travel I had seen this Veronica Beard jacket (which they call iconic and travel ready). I loved the idea of the zipper pockets and saved it to my ideas board. Here's a look at the jacket after 3 weeks of travel and many times being folded into my suitcase when not needed.
I am sold on this fabric for travel pieces. I also took denim jeans as well as a pair of ponte pants so I had travel outfits based on navy blue with plenty of different color tops and sweaters. I buttoned it so you can see the lapels and center front but I don't think I ever wore it buttoned like that.
Looking at the ready to wear version it had several features that I really liked. Of course the zipper pockets, but it also had a peak lapel which I really like these days. But single breasted, not double. You very often see a peak lapel jacket which has that double breasted front (where the front edges cross over the center front line and have 2 or buttons horizontally placed. I didn't want that so I had to figure out how to change an existing pattern. I used a pattern I have previously used
here and
here. The inspiration idea is from this jacket (images from their website)
So I went to work altering that quasi-vintage Vogue jacket pattern to have the peak lapel on the single breasted version. Now that I have made it twice I think the lapels are a bit skimpy in Versions A, B, C but perhaps that was the look then.
Here's a look at the different lapels on the 2 versions, you can see there is a big difference in the lapel width and shape. Below is my traced pattern piece and the changes I made to blend the two versions.
Actually this is a combo of info on my fit adjustments as well as the lapel design detail. I grafted the shape of the peak lapel onto the jacket front for Version A,B.C and then made new facings from that redesigned front.
Instead of welt pockets I made a facing using lining fabric, and created a rectangular opening for the zipper, which I then basted into place and sewed in (after a LOT of basting to make sure it was in just the right place.) Then once both zippers were looking reasonably even and centered I stitched them in by machine. Then I created a pocket bag on the bag attached to the edges of the rectangle. That was later covered by the lining.
At first it bugged my how the zipper pulls hang down instead of remaining horizontal but now I think it looks fine. These pockets did their job and I could go out to dinner without carrying an extra bag for sunglasses etc. Here's a look at the jacket on the dress form before putting in the lining or hemming. Once I had done the lining I got the idea to include more inside pockets, so I added breast pockets as well, they were also very functional but not very beautiful so I won't show you those :)
This fabric presses really well and I did use a silk organza press cloth to prevent shine on the fabric.
But it is also springy - the same feature that gives it the wrinkle resistance means you have to press it well to get the creases. I basted the lapel and then pressed it with steam to get a good crease. I used weft interfacing on the body of the jacket front and then knit fusible on the lapel and collar facings.
I was really pleased with this jacket, it was the right weight for the trip. And the weather was strange in a global warming kind of way - much warmer in October in Italy than any other time I have been there. Which often required scarf and gloves at night and a wool jacket - but this trip it was really warm almost no sweaters required. Here I am on a high tower overlooking the cathedral in Siena - it was a bit chilly that time although we warmed up quickly with aperitivi in the Campo.
And just a week later in Florence it was back to short sleeve tops and barely a jacket required. Definitely odd weather but I wasn't complaining!
Buon Anno a tutti! Happy New Year to all. Thanks for reading and I wish everyone a great year with health, happiness, great travels and fantastic fabric choices!
Beth
