Silk Blouse with hidden buttonholes in teal green, Simplicity 2339

This teal green silk blouse has been a while in the making. Actually I should clarify, it is probably this post that has been a while in the making. I had the idea to make another silk blouse with the hidden buttonhole placket which I first did in 2011 where I used a silk charmeuse that had a bit of stretch. I had never been quite happy with that version - although I wear it all the time and the color is definitely one of my favorites. So earlier this year I decided to try out this project again, starting from scratch and worked out all the details on this blouse in a printed silk. And then I figured it would make a nice how-to post for Craftsy in the solid color. So here it finally is. Plus I have been wearing it a lot! Quite surprised at the frequency but it does hit all my sweet spots - bright jewel tone, luscious silk, goes with a lot of other stuff in my wardrobe, looks dressy but wearable with jeans.



This is my 8th version of this pattern, Simplicity 2339, an Amazing fit pattern. The one with the hideous version on the envelope.



I really like these Amazing fit patterns although the more recent ones have seemed a bit wacky - like they used up all the really nice basic ideas in the beginning and now are just adding peplums or other details to previously existing patterns. (but on the the other hand isn't that the case with all patterns?)
Anyway - if you can figure out what size to make for your shoulders and work your way down with fit (usually taking out some ease) then I think they are really useful as basic patterns.

Back to this shirt pattern - I have never made it as designed - with the button band sewn on as a separate piece. Every time I have fiddled with the front to change the placket. This version is the biggest change, with this hidden buttonhole placket. Today on the Craftsy blog there is my step-by-step post on how to create this placket. It takes a lot of photos to explain it so instead of adding them all here I will just link to that post. Plus it is color-coded! (Ok don't laugh if you look at it and please let me know if it makes sense)





Every time I look at this I just feel relief that any potential buttonhole mishap in this delicate fabric is hidden from view. Plus the sleek front seems right with silk crepe de chine.

A few other construction details, and how rewarding is it to press silk? Am I weird to enjoy this? It is just so satisfying to get that nice crisp crease on a silk fabric. Of course sometimes the iron is in the wrong place and you create a crease where it is not wanted but in a nice silk fabric it usually presses out again. I bought this fabric at Fabric Outlet on Mission St. in San Francisco during one of their 40% off sales. By the way, Tanya did a great post recently on fabric shopping in the bay area, here is the link.  Check it out if you are traveling this way.




I had these buttons in my button box. Score! I have no idea what I bought them for but I had 12 so perfect quantity for cuffs and center front. Plus they are square which is a detail I like. Also I finally figured out (sort of) my stupid buttonhole foot on my modern Singer machine. Although I still prefer the vintage attachment on my slant needle 1950's Singers but sadly it is not working properly (things don't seem to do as well after you drop them on the floor from height).

There are a few different ways to do cuffs, such as attach from the inside and topstitch down on the outside, plus the reverse of that. I like to attach right sides together and then press in place, lastly stitching all around the cuff to enclose the inside. Though before I get there I press the seams open using my pressing stand.







This is the same technique I use on lapels, collars etc. Press the seam open and then flip over and press on the edge - it is the way to get the sharpest edge possible.
Looking at this photo I see that I used 2 types of interfacing in these cuffs, a lightweight fusible on one side and then silk organza on the other side as they seemed a bit wimpy with only the fusible.





For the hem I stitched about 1/4" from the edge, which makes it easier to press and then turned and pressed again about 3/8".




Typically I don't get that worked up about inside finishing but with a silk shirt it is nice to do french seams and there are really only the side seams and the sleeve seams to do that way so it did. I have narrowed the sleeves on this pattern a good about - like 1.5' as they seemed way to big around the arm for my liking.  The shirt seemed too long when I tried it on so I cut off a bit of length and now wondering it is a smidge too short. And the other silk one I thought was too long! I am like Goldilocks - when will it be just right?





Here is the link to the post on Craftsy.   I just noticed that I didn't show the hidden buttonholes :) but you can see them in the photo below.



So all in all, I think this is my new favorite colors. Plus I have some wool in this shade with a black pencil stripe plaid which will probably make an appearance in the fall for some type of jacket.





Up next - I am sewing up a dress using fabric I designed on myfabricdesigns.com.  I'm far from being an artist but it is interesting and of course you can choose the colors you like - prepare for some eye-searing fabrics in the next months. Although the first one is not crazy at all and came out really nicely, quite lovely and sewing up into a spring dress. Although not in time for Easter - which may be rainy but we are not complaining!  Check out all that greenery behind me - the roses are loving it.

Happy Easter to all,

Beth

another gorgeous tulip appeared this week. I think I planted a few irises as well but they have yet to appear.

My top reasons for making a muslin

Previously I have stated that I don't make many muslins ( a test garment prior to sewing with the real garment fabric) but in the past couple of years I have sewn them more and more. Trying out new to me pattern companies, sewing for others, doing pattern testing for an indie pattern designer -  these are all reasons I've had to sew up a muslin.

So I wrote a post for Craftsy on my top reasons to sew a muslin. In fact I was surprised by how many reasons I actually came up with. And all quite valid in various circumstances. Here is the link to the post which you can read there.




Yesterday I had a 60% off coupon for Joann Fabrics so I went over there early and bought a few yards of the 120" wide muslin fabric for about $ 8.  I try not to buy much actual muslin fabric but that is kind of a steal, and using the traditional unbleached muslin is really nice for fitting etc. I can mark all over it with a pen while fitting and see the markings easily so as to be able to transfer back to my paper pattern pieces. Also the unbleached muslin takes the markings from the waxed tracing paper very well. A while ago I bought a package of the red wax tracing paper and so I use that now to mark darts, seamlines etc. The red shows up really well on the muslin fabric. Sometimes I even go over the markings with pen/pencil because I really like to see all the dots and other markings when I am doing a muslin.

As for other options on muslin fabric - the example above left in blue is an old bedsheet. (for my black wool coat, Simplicity 2311, on the right is the muslin for my version of the House of Pinheiro Brasilia dress). While old and worn bedsheets might seem like a good choice for muslining garments I find them a bit troublesome. For one thing no selvage - so you have to figure out the grain on your own. Secondly most sheets are quite tightly woven and very difficult to pin. But in a pinch they will do. So I do prefer actual cotton muslin fabric - and I save all kinds of scraps when cutting out muslins - then on the next project for collars, or other small pieces I use any scraps first and then cut out the larger pieces. My miserly tendencies know no bounds!

Another way to "find" fabric for muslins is to use quilting cottons and use the back side (without the printing) as the outer side of the test garment. If you are using quilting cotton the print can be a distraction when fitting but by flipping it over and sewing with the pattern on the inside you can get a less distracting version for your fit evaluation. I have bought a lot of muslin fabric at garage sales. Don't overlook some of the horrible stuff - particularly poly double knits which nobody has willingly sewn with since ?  but is a really nice stand-in for a modern ponte knit when pattern testing.

Thanks for the comments and emails on my idea about sewing instruction/consultation via Skype. I am working out my ideas and will be back soon with more details.

Happy vernal equinox sewing,

Beth

When in doubt sew denim

Don't you think that is the case? Denim is so nice to sew. Today is a perfect day to hunker down and sew with a movie in the background and I was having no inspiration until I found a weirdly shaped denim remnant hanging up on my fabric rack. Score! It is barely enough for the project in mind, some creative cuts will be in order but already I can feel the creative juices flowing. Pattern hint:  Simplicity 8014, the cover version is perfection.

I have been in a weird mood lately - sewing wise. Not really interested in starting any monumental projects and somewhat hampered by the changeable weather which is almost spring but still not sandal weather. In fact pouring today so the March rain prediction has happily come true. Our parched California landscape appreciates that for sure. Changing things up I will put the garden photo near the top today - this bicolor tulip is perfection!



Checking on my last post here it was back in mid-February. I told myself I was going to take a bit of a sewing and blog break but actually didn't think it would happen. However that coincided with my "un-motivation" so there you have it. And now I have plenty to write about and some new projects already started. Onward to spring!

By the way - this past year I have been involved with some consulting projects - completely separate from sewing and so was not available for teaching as much as I would like. But that project is done. Which leads me to my next topic.

If you are going to be in the bay area this year and want to have some personal sewing instruction please get in touch!  I have also been thinking about the possibilities of video consultations. It's so easy to do a Skype call and very fun to meet  -  even when it is across the internet. Perhaps you have questions about a specific technique, fitting issue, want to discuss pattern options, help with a tailoring project or just general sewing guidance? This is an idea I have had for a while - I am planning to add more details on my sewing lesson website but please leave a comment here if you think this could work,  if any of you would be interested, or have any feedback or suggestions on this idea.

Some finished projects will soon get their own blog posts.  This is the silk blouse with the hidden buttonhole placket. I just love the idea of the hidden buttonholes in a silk like this - takes all the stress out of making a perfect buttonhole that would be front and center in all its triumph or tragedy depending on how my buttonholer was working on the day. Never fear though - and this technique can be used on most any shirt.  I promise a post on the "how-to" very soon. I have written a post for Craftsy on this topic which I believe they will run near the end of this month - with a color coded example I created. It looks a little goofy but I love a color-coded example and it just helps see where all the pieces go. I will post here as well. And one of these days when the sun is shining I will photograph this shirt on me.





Thanks for the comments on my last post about keeping or tossing items that no longer get worn. And one of these days I will make a pattern from that black cocktail dress, you will hear about it here if I do :)

New Vogue patterns - I always love the summer release and this time was no exception  - some are just calling my name. But I have yet to get much wear from last summer's dresses so I will refrain for the time being.

Some pattern testing is going on around here - something I rarely do but I bet you can guess which indie pattern designer it is for. New patterns in April I believe. And a real version already planned out in my head.

Lastly - I have done some fabric designs for MyFabricDesigns.com and I am very impressed with the quality of the fabric that has arrived. So those are also in my sewing queue.

Hey - I guess I am out of my sewing slump! Plus the garden is looking better thanks to all that rain. Tomato seedlings growing on the windowsill. One less hour of sleep last night for Daylight Saving's Time is worth it to me to turn the page on winter. Gosh I am such a wimp - what if I lived in a place with actual winter weather? Hibernate and sew I guess :)

Happy Spring Forward Sewing,
Beth

Random Threads # 18, saving, keeping, treasuring, hoarding?

Still an extravaganza of shirt sewing going on here, this latest one using the same pattern (why change a good thing) but this version is silk crepe de chine, in a lovely teal green color. I am trying to sew with perfection as this is the type of thing that stays in my wardrobe for ages, a solid color silk blouse is such a great item. Also I am doing the hidden buttonhole placket down the front - so stay tuned in the near future for a comprehensive post on how to do that.

But today's title is Random Threads - so here are a few of my random topic notes. And keep reading if you like 50's vintage - a peek at one of my treasures lower down in the post.

Hemming RTW jeans - are you like me and need to lop off a good 3 to 8 inches depending on the style? I always wonder who they are made for and then I talk with taller friends who complain about too-short RTW jeans. Something for everyone (to be bothered by). I have a process which might seem a bit convoluted but you know, shrinkage, ha. Anyway I usually wash jeans immediately, and let them hang dry, then press and try them on with various heel heights, decided on a hem length. and then just tack the hem well enough so it stays but can't be seen on the right side. You can see here that the hem allowance is tacked to the side seams and just a bit in center front and back. So I wear them this way for a while - a good while, and decide if I like the length. I might wash again to see if they shrink any more. Jeans always seem to shrink in length not circumference, right? Sometimes wearing them this way even starts to make that wear line right at the edge. which is the beauty of the second shrink - then I lengthen them about a half inch, hem and machine stitch over any wear line. Does this sound like a lot of trouble? Possibly but I hate it when I have jeans just right and then they come through the wash a good bit shorter. Also  - the duct tape hem. Or packing tape, or any tape at hand. I have done that a LOT! In college, traveling in Europe, new jeans plus a roll of tape and a few minutes of focus and you are good to go. Using whatever is at hand for a measuring device. Folded paper works perfectly! So this week I just hemmed these jeans which are a year old. Decided the length was OK so time to hem :) I still have no interest in sewing regular denim jeans despite getting very close to a good fit on my Bootstrap Pattern jeans I showed in my previous post, but I do want to sew some other types of pants. I have had a craving for some "crazy pants" i.e. some wild print pants in a casual cotton to wear in the spring. So that might happen.




Do you keep scraps? Paper, fabric, vegetables? Turning to my desk I find plenty of paper scraps with various topics scrawled on then. I have some nice notebooks and always have the idea to keep all my sewing notes in one, but I am a scrap paper saver thus they are always at hand. Are you a paper saver? It seems a shame to waste big gobs of blank paper that come in the mail,  all sorts of stupid things, bills that have "this page intentionally blank". What idiot came up with that one? So wasteful. But on my desk, at the kitchen counter, even a few in my car, scraps of paper for lists.

Consequently I will claim that I am not a hoarder but I hate to throw out things that are still useful or potentially so. It seems so wasteful. I have mentioned before but I come from a long line of string savers (didn't you have a grandma that saved string or a dad with cans of assorted nails, screws and other fasteners tucked away on the workbench?) Here is my small bin of interfacing scraps. They get used for things like stabilizing hems or testing interfacing choices.


I have fabric scraps and awkward pieces of muslin that get used in patchwork style when doing garment testing (who cares if the muslin colors are all different?). Actually I have found a lot of my fabric scraps useful for sewing small examples to go along with Craftsy blog posts I have done, so that has worked out. And plenty of what are sold as throwaway plastic plant pots which get scrubbed out and then used to plant cuttings. But other things are more of a difficulty

In my last Random Threads I briefly mentioned the idea of "Tidying Up" by that I meant the Marie Kondo method which is so popular. Having not read the book I only have a passing idea about it but the overarching theme of minimalism is not my style. And there are things in my house that are not sparking joy but are completely useful - even if only at certain times. I can deal with most things but the category that is a conundrum is the meaningful, sentimental or beautiful but useless item. Do you keep or not?  I have some things that I just can't get rid of. Here are a few.

I bought these shoes the first time I was in Paris, at the end of a long trip that took me through Italy and onward to France. By the time I got there I had bought 6 pairs of shoes/boots and other assorted leather goods. But then I saw these and they came home as well. I did wear them a lot, but now they are about one size too small plus those heels and my back issues don't mix. But they are so pretty! So I keep them.



And now please don't laugh! Yes these are the original Calvin's. I seem to recall they were dark blue when I first bought them so obviously well used. Hey, teenage me thought they were utterly cool.



and another pair. These are Levi's with the iconic red tab on the pocket. I believe 525's for those of you who know your Levi's. Although they have messed around with the styles and they are not as reliable as they used to be. These are totally wearable now, straight leg jeans except for the color. But oh the denim. As perfect as denim can be, those old Levi's......



Saving the best for last, this is a cocktail dress from the late 1950's that belonged to my mother but which I adopted (stole from her extra closet) ages ago and have worn to so many parties. I know I have said many times that I rarely wear black but there is something about this dress that makes it one of the very best dresses I have worn. I lightened the picture so you can see the detail but it is inky black.  I think it looks good on the dress form but on the body it transforms to the ultimate va va voom vintage style - very 50's movie star. The dress is a black crepe and then the section at the waist is draped with chiffon, even a little bow. It is fitted but not tight, curvy in all the right places. The pleats in the bodice emphasize the bust and those little corners on the neckline just add some zing. I love, love, love this dress and have often thought about making a pattern from it to copy. One of these days.


And yet there is always something new to sew. I think that is the issue with making things, unless you give away or sell then you end up with stuff. Clothing is useful but at some point you have enough clothing, however I like to sew for the challenge, it is just something I enjoy doing and so I will continue although I should try to purge more things that are never worn.

Next random topic: Colette patterns. I am completely an outside observer when it comes to most of the independent pattern companies. As I have mentioned before I am not their target market which I think is now more geared to people beginning with sewing. Analyzing their business moves of late they are probably smart to try to diversify, creating an on-line magazine, changing the style of their patterns from a vintage-inspired to a more modern and simple look. But whew - I think their patterns are mostly blah - with a dash of sad and shapeless. If you are going to the trouble to create an online magazine with high quality photos then the examples shown should be stellar - and theirs seem to be barely adequate. Some of the things they show are really poorly done or have a terrible fit. I don't think it is deceptive to show a perfect version as the example, I want to see the way it should look. On another note about independent pattern companies, I just received the latest email newsletter from Stone Mountain Fabrics  and Suzan the owner mentioned that they would no longer be stocking Vogue/New Look etc. based on the pricing and what they are sold for in the big chain stores it was financially untenable for them. I completely see her point and if I do buy an indie pattern I try to buy it there at the store.

Let's talk about feet. Sewing machine feet. My various sewing machines have all kinds of different feet and yet I almost never change them. Including several different walking feet or ones with rollers etc. Just have not needed to do so and truthfully I forget they are even in the drawer. I would probably be happy with a straight-stitch only industrial machine. The machines for a home sewer that are made for a variety of stitches have that throat plate with the horizontal opening for the zig-zag and that thing seems made to swallow delicate fabrics. Which is why I will keep my old Singers humming along forever. But back to feet. Do you use this one - the open toe foot? Whew these things have funny names when you stop to think about it. But sometimes, particularly at night I find it impossible to see the stitching due to the plastic/metal pieces in the center of the regular foot. The open toe foot is better for seeing where the needle is going. But not as good at feeding the fabric along. I do tend to use it for really precise sewing, like on a collar edge where I want to be absolutely sure I am following the stitch line. Usually after I have messed up something, had to pick out the stitches and am ready for round 2.




The future of sewing is in good hands: I direct you to this blog:   anelisemadeit.blogspot.com. I'm not sure where I came across her blog but she was still in high school when I first read it. Now she is at MIT, still sewing and pursuing all kinds of interesting things, including academics :) And finding time to go to Boston Fashion week! I love her tag line "it's not bragging if you made it". Totally agree! Check this out, she made the Ralph Rucci Vogue pattern coat, in winter white. Fantastic. So another brainy stitcher to keep your eyes on.

I didn't even get to some of my other random topic scrawls, such as exposed zippers which I just don't get. What is the point? I find them jarring and they rarely add interest. Probably just me as their popularity doesn't seem to wane. This one falls in the category of to each her own. Actually I'm not much of a zipper fan in general, as a design element so actively avoid patterns that have a zipper for things other than closure. Personal sewing quirk - we all have them. What is yours?

Enough random thoughts for today - as usual I need to get outside and pull some weeds while the ground is still soft from the January rain. February has been dry and today it is supposed to be 75˚F.  What?  (my apologies to those of you in the eastern deep freeze) Oh well, it's a nice long weekend so we are enjoying it. Now off to Home Depot to buy mulch. What an exciting day, right?

Happy Valentines and/or President's day weekend sewing, Beth

how about something pink for today's garden photo? Things are starting to bud and bloom around here - as I mentioned, winter weather is just about over and I am already thinking about tomatoes :)
a pink azalea that lives near the front door.

My shirt obsession continues, and a Bootstrap Fashion custom jeans pattern is a nice suprise

That title pretty much encapsulates my sewing of late. I don't know why I am making so many shirts lately, although a shirt is a reasonably quick item to sew. And very satisfying to do all that precise work. I have this Simplicity pattern adjusted to perfection (S2339). Plus I have a file folder filled with alternate pattern pieces, to rotate the darts into gathers, or choose from various buttonhole plackets. This might be the closest I have ever come to creating a TNT pattern. While I have made some dress patterns and a few skirts over and over, this is the one pattern that I would reliably use to design something new. I have a yearning for a shirtdress for spring, and even bought the famous McCalls shirtdress pattern (MC 6696) however the other day the idea popped into my head to just use this shirt pattern and create a skirt. Hmmm.
So shirt details first and then the Bootstrap jeans custom size pattern details.

Back to this new shirt. Since it is plaid I decided to use my version where the horizontal bust darts are converted into shoulder gathers. Here's a link to a shirt with that detail, and here's a link to a post I did on Craftsy showing how to convert the dart to gathers.




This is one of the few fabrics that I have ever purchased at Fabrix in San Francisco on Clement St.  When I lived in the city I would stop in there once in while but now I rarely go to this store. I think Shams finds some treasures there periodically. It's one of those places that are hit or miss but lots of bargains. Although the parking in that neighborhood is insanely difficult. So it has been marinating on my fabric rack for a while - maybe 4-5 years. Which is unusual as I don't keep stuff all that long but it finally made it onto my cutting table.

The main reason I decided to use the shoulder gathers instead of the dart is for the plaid matching. Which worked a treat and I'm quite satisfied if I do say so myself :)  No pesky bust dart to throw off the side seam matching, thus the sleeves are matched too. Score!



That is a scorch mark on the side of my dress form (another garage sale purchase) I think it got too close to someone's wall heater in its previous life.

What am I looking at?  Bees!  so many honeybees already in the garden. Swarming all over this camellia. Which is the only one of its type in my garden, so sticky with nectar that the bees love it. And of course in most all the pictures my front button alignment is off a teensy bit. Oh that makes me crazy.



But here it looks OK. The buttons were also in my button box. I don't think I would have picked these particular ones out if I had been in the store choosing buttons for this shirt, but I had plenty, enough for shirt front and cuffs so it seemed like a good reuse.




A few touches of bias.



I received this sweater as a Christmas gift, so that is mostly what prompted me to use this fabric for a shirt.  Also why I tend to make shirtsleeves a bit on the long side, so I can flip up the cuffs when I am wearing a long sleeve sweater, just a habit. The colors are not exactly the same, but I think complementary. So far I have not worn either piece despite finishing about two weeks ago - maybe tomorrow.




Now for the Bootstrap Fashion Patterns jeans adventure. 
To sum up the experience - I am impressed!
I have sewed a Bootstrap Fashion pattern previously, a dress and the fit was very good. And since pants are my achilles heel of fitting - I figured why not try their new custom jeans pattern? Actually I am not at all interested in making jeans per se. I have lots of ready-to-wear jeans and I just find it way easier to buy them than to source the just right denim - do all that topstitching - tweak the fit etc. So jeans sewing - a phrase that my grandmother used to use comes to mind - I just can't be bothered. But pants in general - those I would like to sew more often. And a well fitting jeans pattern I could use to make pants in other fabrics, like cotton sateen for summer or corduroy for winter. On Bootstrap there are 3 different custom jeans patterns, listed in their Indie designer section. All by the same designer Vado, she created a skinny jeans pattern, an at-waist bootcut pattern and a loose boyfriend jeans style.
Skinny jeans are super cute on lots of people but I just never feel right in them - and having a very long rise a higher waist jean usually fits better so I picked that one.



As usual with Bootstrap patterns you enter your measurements for a custom fit. I was pretty exact with my measurements as I wanted to see how they came out, what kind of ease etc was designed in the pattern.




For the knee width I used the measurements from an existing pair of jeans that I have, also the leg opening (which is the bottom hem opening). Thinking about it later you could change those to obtain straight leg or any other variation. Much like their other patterns where you can choose belly shape (which I like to categorize as choosing anywhere between flat-abs up to 2nd trimester) on the jeans pattern it's not belly shape but you can indicate the shape of your bum. Useful! I picked average but for next time I might choose curvy.  The other change I will make next time (oh yeah, there will be a next time) is to increase the waist measurement entry. My waist is rather high, so my smallest natural waist point is probably 2 inches higher than where the top of the pants landed. I think if I add about 2 or 3 inches then the fit will be better around that spot and I can always take them in if needed.
Now for the result. I chose no-stretch for this version as I had a piece of 100% cotton corduroy to use for the test. Also I thought a non-stretch fabric would be a better indicator of fit. You can select fabric type, no stretch or various %'s of stretch which is clever.

Not bad huh?  The part that really amazed me was that the knee was in the right place, the length was correct, the back rise was just about right and the fit around the thighs felt like ready to wear jeans.



In the interest of science - sewing science :)   I am putting these fairly awkward photos of my rear view up here.  You can see the waist is a bit tight but in the right spot. I think the pockets are a bit oversized and low, I don't like jeans pockets to be at all on the thigh but that is easily changed. I left off the belt loops for this test version. Although maybe I will leave them off future versions depending on the fabric. On the other hand I wear belts a lot. Buying jeans/pants to fit my bum means the waist is so often too big. Perhaps it's time to fix that.



Front view.



In the front rise I think there is a bit too much length, generally pants that fit me best have a lower front and then are higher at the back waist. Also I think I used a too long zipper which messes up the front a bit. These were not ever gonna be real pants  (something I would wear out of the house) but I figured maybe usable, but then I went and cut a hole in the front under the zipper. So no, not wearable now.

That's the scoop on my Bootstrap fashion jeans experiment. Getting very near success. I think I will try another pattern, with the changes I noted about and also use a 1% or 2% stretch fabric. Because walking around in those corduroy pants made me realize how much I love a little bit of lycra.

Earlier this week I started another silk blouse - a version with the hidden buttonhole placket as several people left comments on my previous post that they would like to see how to do it. That will be coming up soon and it gave me an idea for a Craftsy post as well. (lately I am coming up blank on topics for my Craftsy blog posts - any suggestions would be welcome :) Do you read the Craftsy sewing blog? Some interesting stuff there. Where I have really learned some nice tips and tricks are by reading their other blog subcategories - cooking, gardening, photography are the ones I find useful.

So Super Bowl Sunday is just about over - despite having zero interest in either team it's fun to watch especially since it was here in the bay area. It has been madness all week. The city was crazy!
Also this happened today. Yep, spring is here. Although we are seriously hoping for more - more -  more rain. My new roses need it!



Happy Sunday sewing, Beth

Silk blouse with hidden buttonholes, Simplicity 2339

This one could be subtitled - Silk blouse: The practice version. Not really a muslin, with this very lovely fabric, but more of a practice version for a solid color silk charmeuse in a rich teal green that I really want to get just right. So I have completed a luscious silk blouse that very much says spring. While there are a few daffodils just about to bloom - spring is not yet here so it will go into the wardrobe until the season is right for a white and coral print. Also the question of what to wear it with. I showed it to my friend Alice and she immediately said "white jeans!"  Which is perfectly fine if you are 5'8" but I don't quite know about that look on me. More on white jeans later in the post.

Back to the shirt. I made almost the same version of this a while ago - scrolling though my old posts it was 2011. That long! In silk and with hidden buttonholes. However I was never 100% happy with how that turned out. Even though I wear it a lot and it goes so well with other items in my repertoire. Since then I have made this pattern 6 times (one of those is hot off the sewing machine last night). But for the upcoming teal silk I wanted to do a little fit adjustment, thus a slight rework of the pattern and a test using this busy silk print.

 

As for fit adjustments, in previous versions I wasn't happy with where the bust dart landed. I think one version was too low and another too high. For this version I adjusted it a bit - lower by 1/2 inch I think and it came out perfectly. In other versions I have converted the bust dart to shoulder gathers, and in a knit version I converted the bust dart to easing it into the side seam which works quite well in a knit.  I will include links below to all the various versions.

This picture was taken around 5pm on a very dark and rainy day, so just a quick dash outside. But rainy does not equal gloomy - not around here. Things are green and growing. We are SO hoping that the drought will be a thing of the past, but a few rainy months will not fix our water problems by a long stretch. (Don't get me started on water management in my state - such a big population, huge agriculture industry and total disregard for this serious issue on so many fronts, such as changing our mindset on usage for landscaping or lack of infrastructure to capture the rainfall. Anyway - all rainstorms are welcome now.

 

Fit, not bad, right?  Although I think it is too long and I am pondering shortening by just an inch or so, however I will wait until I figure out what to wear it with.

A few construction details. I have a burgundy color silk charmeuse blouse that I bought at Ann Taylor about 10? years ago which I really love and that is where I saw this type of hidden buttonhole placket. As it was hanging in my sewing room I noticed that it had a subtle angle above the upper button, such that the neckband actually didn't meet but finished about an inch apart. Does that make sense? 

 

See how the center fronts overlap and then don't quite at the top of the center front? That is the subtle angle. It also required taking length out of the collar stand and collar. It's a nice effect for a blouse that you are never going to button at the neck but I am not sure I would bother again.
After I make the teal green silk blouse I will do a post on how to create the hidden buttonhole placket, as I was sewing and taking these photos I realized it is a bit hard to see with this busy print.



Here's a look at the buttonhole placket, it is all finished and just ready to be flipped over and then stitched down. The buttonholes are done, and then they end up behind the actual front of the blouse, and are connected to the front facing. The whole thing is basically a 4-layer sandwich and you just have to keep track of where each layer is, and then also place it on the blouse front in the right spot so the buttonholes close across the bust etc. Also I used my favorite edge technique, which used to get so much traffic to my blog (now eclipsed by my "how I hem sleeves" post which is my most pinned post) What is a popular post is something I find interesting/entertaining and if I knew those posts would be read so much I would have done a better job with nicer photos! oh well.

A better look at that clean edged facing. Basically you stitch it together, right side of fabric to right side of interfacing, then trim the seam and clip curves as need, then flip and press, taking care to get a crisp edge.


 

For a change I did french seams on the side seams as well as the sleeves, but used the serger on the armhole. I am not at all a purist when it comes to seam finishing - in fact rather lazy about it. One of these days in a Random Threads post I will have to ramble on with  my thoughts about the inside of garments.

And viola, hidden buttonhole placket!








I am also on a roll with finding buttons in my button box. People have given me so many buttons in the last few years. Anyone who cleans out their relative's home seems to want to present me with one of those old cookie tins filled with buttons or other sewing room paraphernalia so it seems silly to go out and buy new buttons. Plus the pleasure of finding a matching set is well, unmatched!
That's the latest on my sort of test version. And I bought this fabric a couple of months ago at the local ASG stash sale for around $6. Score! Plus I have about 1.3 yards left which is just enough to make a sleeveless top. Which I have a feeling I would actually wear more often. Similar to this top which was also derived from this same Simplicity pattern. The pattern that just keeps on giving.

Shirts made from this same Simplicity pattern. And I haven't even mentioned the placket on most of the other versions, I have never used the original sewn on buttonhole placket, I should show you how I make the all in one placket that looks like the sewn-on.
blue silk charmeuse mentioned above
black dot print cotton lawn version
navy blue plaid flannel version
green polka dot knit version
cotton poplin paisley version, bust darts converted to shoulder gathers
today's coral and white silk version
and a cotton plaid version just finished and soon to be posted.
Ok that's 7.  Talk about value - for a Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern I  bought for $ 0.99.
Even at the regular price it would now be a bargain.

Speaking of bargains - Joanns (the slightly evil empire - although I shouldn't complain, their fabric is mostly crap but they do carry good linings, sell patterns for a pittance and are open until 9 pm. So, Ok not complaining any more)
anyway - Burda envelope patterns are starting to show up in their sale ads for $ 2.49 which is fantastic. So I did buy a few this week.

the one on the left tickled my color block obsession, and I am trying to find some interesting yet casual fabrics so I could wear it jeans, maybe some kind of denim and knit combo - maybe including the leather waist element.  The one on the right, I have had a hankering (is that a funny American word to some readers - meaning a craving, desire, itch, yen for something) anyway a thought to make a shawl collar blazer. Sort of easier than a standard lapel. But sometimes I think it looks a bit plain or frumpy.  Bought the pattern anway.


And the blouse on the left, looks quite nice for a floaty summer top. The Simplicity on the right, as soon as I saw that pattern envelope I wanted that exact denim dress. I think we will see a lot of those once the winter retreats.






So that's the latest. For this weekend's sewing I might do some pattern experimentation - play around with some that have been in my stack of interesting possibilities.
And otherwise enjoy the rain on the roof!

Happy weekend sewing, Beth

oh ya, what about the white jeans? they look great in the summer but I always feel like they get dirty the minute I put them on, I am sure to spill some coffee or even something like an ink pen or a lipstick becomes a hazard in my hands. but I might give them a try.

And a garden photo ! another Yay! Some bulbs are starting to appear and I think with these showers it will be a good show this year. This is such an unusual camelia, the flowers are huge, like dinnerplate dahlias. With ruffley edges, bright yellow stamens and a lot of sticky nectar. Lots of bees and a few hummingbirds. Another good sight:)

Random Threads # 17, What is up with that?

Well that is kind of a random title, "What is up with that?"  But I keep a piece of paper on my desk and as the weeks go by I jot down topics that are bouncing around in my head or I come across in my sewing web surfing. And the page for this edition of Random Threads had a bunch of nouns with the words "What is up with that?" scrawled next to them. I guess I am in a questioning mood.

Randomly speaking of questioning - I happened to listen to a podcast where the author Gretchen Rubin was interviewed, she has a book out called "Better than Before" and her own podcast. Along with that there was a quiz you could take to determine your personality type (I defy you to resist those stupid quizzes when you are killing time or procrastinating)  So as I was standing at the stove, sautéing some onions I tap, tap, tapped on my phone and determined that I am a questioner. Which I could have told them from the get-go. The point of knowing your personality type is to better able to understand motivations, do things that you want and generally be happier. At least that is what I gathered from the brief listen while dinner was cooking. I think I will give her podcast a try, who isn't trying to create new habits when the calendar turns over a new year?

Also speaking of podcasts - I somehow came across a British podcast, Answer Me This. And have binged listened about a 1/3 of the episodes on iTunes, now pacing myself through the rest. So readers in the UK, are you a fan of this one? I find it hilarious. Silly, stupid, smart all rolled up in one.

Back to sewing.

Let's talk new patterns. For the most part I am ho hum on the new pattern releases and if past history is any guide then in about 3-4 months (when the weather matches the pattern release) I will find a few Vogue patterns that I simply must have. But for now the latest release was interesting but no show-stoppers. The one pattern that I really like is by my beloved Donna Karan for Vogue. However I fear it would be a doozy to alter to fit for my 5'3" frame. But I will probably give it a go when sleeveless dress weather is here. It RAINED today! yes we are getting storms, rain, wet weather. Hallelujah for us in drought stricken California. What does rain mean? weeds.......oh I am so fickle.



Also looking more at that dress above I think it depends heavily on standing at that nonchalant/slightly fierce pose. Maybe in real life it would look like a droopy mess.  But as I said, will probably give it a try.

Simplicity Pattern website - WHAT is up with that?  wow that is a mess. I cannot stand their website revamp or whatever the hell they have done with it. Tried to make it more e-commerce-y or Pinterest-y. So many websites revise and try to emulate the Pinterest look with lots of big photos that scroll past but then the actual utility has vanished. I typically went to their site to look for patterns, use the search functionality, and now the search is a jumbled mess.  So bad. Makes me not want to bother with their brands which is kind of a shame.

Sewing on TV:  do you ever watch sewing shows on TV? Does anyone watch broadcast TV? Here in the bay area we happened to have quite a few PBS stations and they often show many different sewing shows. I received a new TiVo Bolt for Christmas (Oh, Tivo** how I love you and have for many many years - can I say I was an early adopter, I have one old Tivo with lifetime service that is more than 12 years old. which is kind of like a 20 year old dog. As we have had the hard drive croak on other Tivo units but that original one keeps on working. I probably just jinxed it by writing this). Back to my new Tivo: using keyword search for sewing - so many shows and so set up recording on them. Nancy Ziemen, Sew It All TV, Fit to Stitch with Peggy Sagers. Kind of surprising how many there are. Some are useless but others are interesting and every once in a while I have learned some fantastic tip that was really useful.  I'm a big believer in taking in information from a lot of different sources, be it a book, podcast, blog, tv, video class. You just never know where the light bulb moment will be found.

The Fold Line:  a new community website for stitchers, with pattern reviews, forums, user profiles. I did sign up, looked around and have maybe been back once or twice. It seems like a good idea but perhaps not getting any traction? My impression is that people are too scattered to coalesce around a new site, so as much as sewers want a Ravelry for sewing, I don't think it has yet appeared. What do you think? I'm not really a participator when it comes to websites or forums. I do put up pattern reviews on Patternreview.com, because I get a lot out of the reviews of others and it seems only fair to contribute my reviews. But as for forums, discussion board etc. I don't see how anyone finds the time.

Pantone Color(s) of the Year: in a word - blah.  so weird. Yes, it is a marketing gimmick but these are really goofy. In fact separately they are OK but when you look at them together they each make the other seem more bland. Ok to be fair, unless the color is turquoise or maybe coral I will always think it is a little bland. Are you going to run out and find some Rose Quartz fabric? Please tell me no.




Imminent demise of the Big 4 pattern companies? Did you read a blog post on SewMamaSew by Abby Glassenberg. She spoke about shifts in sewing industry trends. Most of it wasn't something I had an opinion one way or another, however she sort of predicted that the indie pattern share of sewing patterns will win out over the established traditional Big 4. I think she is out of her mind there. There is a market for certain independent patterns with the accompanying instructional tools and community, however my sense is that once you venture past beginning level or want to explore more complex garments, then the larger companies have the depth to product that product. Vogue, Burda, Marfy, these pattern companies by and large do a good job in producing patterns that a home sewer can use to recreate a runway look. I think her point of view is so far from garment sewing that the conclusions make no sense. Also there have always been independent pattern companies. Businesses come and go, some last for decades and some go out of business, some are absorbed by larger entities. The sewing pattern industry is no different.

A mystery to me: I love the look of this coat, Butterick 6244. Well actually, I love the the look of the coats made by these two. Lori of Girls in the Garden, her version here.  It looks so stylish on her and color is such a great choice for a neutral go with anything coat. The other is Margo, who made it in red. Scrumptious. They are both perfection. But there is no lining! how does that work? Isn't it itchy? and I think it would stick to whatever you are wearing under. I will admire from afar but know those things would drive me crazy if I had it.  Also both their versions are way better than the pattern envelope!




Well that is about all for my Random Threads tonight. I didn't even get to my questions about "Tidying Up".  Have you Kondo-ized your fabric stash? or the sock drawer? what is it about the socks? It gives me joy to have my socks jumbled up in the drawer. I could care less about their organization. And don't throw away your old photos  - or your hammer. You might need it :)

Some sewing going on - as I might have mentioned I am trying to cut back for a while on sewing. With success, in that I have only made one item since Jan 1. Which is not this top, actually finished before Jan 1. It is a mostly McCalls 7046 t-shirt with the ruched sides, made smaller to fit better, and then the collar of the Sewaholic Renfrew top grafted on it (and adjusted to fit the neck opening. Super soft and cozy knit, in the fabric closet a good few years. Maybe Fabric.com? I used to buy from them but have not in several years. Anyway - I actually have a hot pink cashmere cardigan that matches exactly, which I had not worn in ages. But presto - cozy winter outfit. Hmm. what else is in that fabric closet?



Sneak peek - just finished a silk blouse - I mentioned it has a hidden buttonhole placket which is something I developed (copied from a RTW blouse) so I will do a how-to post. It is surprisingly easy!





That's all for now. Happy almost weekend sewing, Beth

** TiVo - just in case, since I was blathering on about it and it is something you have never heard of. Do they have Tivo in Europe? Australia? not sure. It is maybe the original ? digital video recorder, basically a computer that records TV. What makes Tivo different is the interface - it is super easy to use, works really well, just a really well designed product that is often smarter than we are (ha ha)  and now this new version Tivo Bolt is very tiny - like the size of a hardback book, and record/finds both broadcast and streaming. and you can watch on your computer in other rooms. Basically I will be able to stay in and sew until I run out of fabric. JOKING!